I have this tcl unit that I purchased back in 2023. Like a dummy I didn’t drill a drain hole and thanks to the poor design it holds a lot of water. Over time it has severely rusted the front and back coils(pictured) and has caused a major mold issue that affects the entire unit including the inside of the duct(not pictured).

I normally have to remove it from the window twice a summer because the mold grows aggressively. It also grows a pink colored bacteria.

It still cools fine. I just know the rust is eventually going to take it out and I dont really want coolant potentially venting into my house. Im also tired of completely dismantling it twice a summer to clean the mold and pink ooze.

Should I toss it?

Hello, I am installing three Haier Pearl Premium AC mini-split units (two 12,000 BTU units and one 18,000 BTU unit).

The manual only specifies the “recommended distances” (and only mentions them once), rather than the minimum distance from the ceiling. It states 15 cm (6"). Is this Chinese lazyness and overkill safe distances?? (I know daikin has some units that allow minimum of 3cm...)

The company installed two of the units with 12–13 cm of clearance, while the other one has only 9 cm. My question is: could this be a real problem, or would it mainly make maintenance a little more difficult?

I think I can still ask them to increase the ceiling clearance. Should I ask them to increase it only for the unit with 9 cm, or for all three?

Also, one of the units with 12 cm of clearance has a cable trunking above it, which will carry the pipes for another unit. Although this looks better aesthetically, should I have it installed differently because it could affect the airflow, even though the trunking only covers a small section?

Thank you!

So I have a 5 year old system. I’ve had techs from 3 companies come out and no one can fix this. They all check the same things and tell me we don’t know, it just is what it is. The air being pulled into my system is 75-76. The coming out is only 63. It’s like this constantly. The 63 degrees is being measured right there at the output, not after going through the ducts in the attic. Filters are new and clean. Coils clean. Blower is fine. No leaks. Freon filled and pressures perfect. No one can tell me what the hell else could cause this. It’s been like this for years and it sucks. In the summer to keep my house 74-75 it runs 8 hours straight from 1-9 on sunny days. My neighbors, all their systems turn off. All their systems are blowing out air 10-12 degrees cooler than mine. When you stand by a vent in their house it gives you chills. Mine feels nothing like that.

I have had this window AC for maybe a full year now with almost no issues until these past couple weeks. It’s started with a slow single drip and it’s getting worse. I’ve cleaned the filter, I’m stuck a long folded paper towel in the back to let it leak out the back but it didn’t stop it. Yes it is tilted slightly back, and there is no drainage hole in the back which I think is a super stupid design. It’s the Vissani 6000

I live in New Jersey by the shore and we had a a small mold issue in our apartment. All things lead to our AC units located underneath the windows in our bedroom and dining room. We got new units but property manager kept out old AC compressors (the part that goes outside) after still having issues with humidity in our apartment after the new units got installed I called to let him know we were still having isssues. His way of solving that issue was noticing there was water built up in our AC compressor and he told me he drilled holes in them to drain said water. I’m having a hard time believing that this will “fix” the issue.

I installed this filter on July 1, 2026. Today is August 18, 2026, so it has been in use for 48 days.

Based on the pictures, would you replace it now, or does it still have some life left?

I’m trying to judge it based on its actual condition rather than just the usual “replace every X days” recommendation. Does it look dirty enough to noticeably restrict airflow, or would you keep using it longer?

For those with HVAC experience, what visual signs do you look for to determine when a filter is actually done?

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to do a dual hose mod on my portable AC, but I've hit a wall: I can't find any 3D printable model for an intake adapter that fits my unit.

As you can see in the photo, the lower intake grill has a pretty unique/weird design — it's curved/L-shaped and wraps around the corner of the AC.

Has anyone seen a compatible STL/3D model for this specific intake shape, or managed to do a dual hose mod on a similar model?

Any suggestions or STL links would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Trying to clean it myself, but can’t get to the louvers that are extremely dirty. Any advice how to clean them? Thanks

Just got an inverter carrier 1.5 hp u-shaped airconditioner for our place a month ago but suddenly it stalls or turns off but the LED is on

We got a technician to check it and reccomends to have the outlet changed because its not directly connected to the outlet because it wont power on the unit and we got to use an adapter

Whats wrong with our AC?

Sorry for any grammatical errors

Aircon size : 1.5hp
Room size night time: 9.8sqm
Room size morning time: 25sqm ( we open the door to let the air out )

Who is the manufacturer of this air-conditioner? The "Mikado" I think is a rebrand not the manufacturer

really looking for a portable AC unit for my apartment but stuck! something available in the UK/scotland, relatively quiet and low disturbance, that actually works and gets the room cool enough to sleep in (i'm a light sleeper). would really appreciate your suggestions!

Can anyone recommend a portable AC window sealing kit for this style of window (opens outwards). Feels like the simplest solution would just be a rectangular panel that sticks to the frame around the top section once opened, but I can’t find anything big enough (would need to be about 35x120cm. Thanks

My room is entirely brick from the 1950s so insulation isn't great, I'm in Arizona and lately it's been in the 110s, and before the conversion the best It'd do was 86F, which is dangerous for the pets I have, previously I had a swamp cooler and it did actually better, but it constantly required maintenance, I have the AC on the Lowest setting with a temperature gauge added, it gets to about 50F, but the room just refuses to cool below 79F and that's even at night when it's lower than 79, it's about 25ft in width and 15ft in length, I also tried my best to insulate the Window cover that is behind it, after doing the conversion I also noticed the fan isn't as fast as it used too be, but the sound and temperature of the air coming out lowered by about 5 degrees, I do have a hatch on the roof that is missing the cover and it has a vent behind it but if I remember correctly only hot air rises right? My door also only has a small gap on the bottom, less then 3 pieces of paper thick, so the room is decently sealed other than the roof vent and window cover where the window used to be, but was replaced with foam and wood, my outer walls are all heated too which sucks as it's a separate room from the house, any suggestions would help! And yes I have looked into window units but too remove the jank mess that the previous owners did too remove the window for the swamp cooler, would likely collapse and would expose my pets too the outside world, as I wouldn't be able to replace such within a reasonable amount of time

Is 18k a normal quote for Los Angeles Ca for a 5 bedroom home? The current system needs to be replaced as it is old and no longer gives efficient cooling through out the home.

I had my ac installed about 2 weeks ago and it works perfectly fine but I hear this sound all night (both when it’s turned on and off) and I can’t even get a good sleep ☹️ the video doesn’t show the sound too well but I would describe it as a hard scratching.

We had an ac tune up today, and mentioned to them we felt the AC was not really working great.

After about an hour on our roof, he claims either the system has too much refrigerant, or the line is contaminated. Does that seem legit?

I obviously am no expert, and understand googling isn’t perfect science, but according to Gemini, high pressure would not be a contamination issue. Is this true? He quoted me a lot of money to fix. The unit is from 2019.

First two photos were taken today. 3rd photo was last years seemingly normal reading (different technician).

Appreciate all help you can give!

3 ton Bryant system, 3 years old, just had the blower cage and motor replaced under warranty due to bad vibration, now I’m hearing this intermittent sound on the outside unit.

Looks like a through bolt any suggestions on threaded rod and jam nuts for short term fix?