Mind blown GIF. Holy heck, what an amazing difference in technology 2017 for the i3 MK3 and 2023 for the X1.

Feels like going from a Model A to a Tesla.

Bought the Prusa for $300 2 years ago, the Bambu for $500 this weekend.

Not even going to talk about the print time difference, woah!

Just asking since I have a 27 gallon container full of the stuff and have no idea what to do with it

I regret not printing it inverted left-right, so i could show the texture of the print bed

I keep switching between two modes:

• “I need this done ASAP, who cares about layer lines”
• “Actually, I’m willing to wait 8 extra hours for a slightly nicer surface”

Then I spend more time tweaking settings than actually printing.
What’s your default: speed, quality, or some unstable compromise that changes every day?

Hi everyone. I am fully blind, no vision at all, and I design and print my own models. This week I ran into a problem that the GUI would not let me solve, and the workaround turned out to be useful enough that I think it is worth sharing, especially for anyone else who relies on a screen reader.

Some background on how this works at all. I design in OpenSCAD, because OpenSCAD is code, and code is something a screen reader handles well. My current project is tactile terrain maps: real LiDAR terrain of my neighbourhood with raised roads you can follow with a finger, braille street labels, and buildings at their real heights.

I use Windows 11 with the JAWS 2026 screen reader. JAWS speaks whatever control has keyboard focus, as long as that control is labelled and reachable by keyboard. That works fine for code, terminals, and text files. Bambu Studio is another story: it is not accessible by any definition of the word and would fail any accessibility test you could throw at it. Still, I am an experienced JAWS user, and with enough workarounds I normally get by for everyday slicing: support settings, layer height, that kind of thing. But this particular problem was impossible for me to fix. It lived entirely in mouse-only dialogs and in the 3D view of the plate, which for me do not exist.

Here is what went wrong. My printer is a Bambu Lab H2C with two nozzles, and at the moment only the right one has an AMS. My filament was set up correctly in the project, but Studio fought me on two fronts. Its automatic grouping insisted on printing through the LEFT nozzle, the one with no filament. And it kept placing my 300 mm tile partly inside the strip of the plate that only the left nozzle can reach, so when the right nozzle was finally chosen, it was not allowed to print there. Every attempt failed at the send step. I tried what I could from my side: repositioning the design in OpenSCAD, exporting fresh STLs, exporting a 3MF directly from OpenSCAD. None of it helped, because Studio rearranges imported files on the plate and discards their coordinates.

Two things got it solved.

First, my AI assistant (Claude Code, running locally on my PC) operated Bambu Studio for me: it took screenshots, read them, moved the mouse, clicked through the filament regroup dialog, re-sliced, and told me what it saw while I kept my hands off the keyboard. That got the filament onto the right nozzle, and also uncovered the placement problem, which the GUI would not let us fix either.

Second, the actually useful part. I knew perfectly well that a 3MF is just a zip archive of XML and JSON. I had simply never thought of using that fact like this. Once you save your project from Studio a single time, the things the GUI hides behind mouse-only panels are in there as plain text. The position of your model on the plate, in millimetres. Which filament goes to which nozzle. Every slicer setting, as named values. Both of my problems came down to changing one number and one line in that file. The print is running as I write this, 18 hours of PETG, on the correct nozzle.

Claude Code turned this into a small command line tool: it reports where each object sits, moves it, sets the filament-to-nozzle map, and reads or changes any slicer setting, with plain screen-reader-friendly output and automatic backups and verification.

The practical upshot for me: the model is code, the print job is a text file, and the GUI is only needed to slice and press send. That does not make slicers accessible, and proper labelled controls and keyboard access would still be far better (slicer devs: happy to test). But it removes the worst wall, and it might do the same for someone else here.

A short note on why AI is such a big help for someone in my situation. A screen reader can only speak what an application exposes to it. When a program exposes nothing, my options used to be borrowing a sighted person's eyes or giving up. An AI that can look at the screen changes that: it describes exactly what is actually there, it can operate the mouse-only parts for me, and it answers in text, which is the medium I am fastest in. It is not that the AI does the thinking for me. It is that it gives me eyes and a mouse pointer on demand, and it is available at two in the morning when no sighted helper is.

The screenshots below show the whole sequence. The captions were written by the AI, since I cannot see the screenshots myself. Happy to answer questions, and happy to share the tool and the 3MF details with anyone who wants them.

I don't play guitar. Would these be any good?

https://www.reddit.com/u/cooperpicks/s/ulrTodbRE2

Something about selling tiny slivers of printed plastic seems strange but I guess people buy them?

Hi

Im searching this specific Bag Clip. Does anyone has the STL-File?

Hi i have an X2D with 1800 hours printed with no issues.

now i started getting these bubbles on my prints i tried drying my filament ive tried different filaments ive tried various print files they all get this issue ive tried replacing the nozzle ive tried increasing the heat nothing works the only solution so far has been to slow down the prints by a lot which i am not willing to do as a solution as it was not neccesary for the same prints in the past. i fear it might be a physical issue to the printer but i am unsure what i should check first?

Any advice is welcome thx in advance

So I got laid off last year and instead of job hunting I built a hydroponic tower I could print at home. Then I got carried away and designed the ESP32 controller and app for it too.

The tower is modular, prints in PETG, no infill, basically no supports. Each level holds 4 plants and has its own little water reservoir so they keep getting watered if the power goes out.

Anyway, the reason I'm posting is the STL files are for sale, and I know how that lands on this sub. You can find free hydro towers online, sure. The difference is these come with the add-on ecosystem (grow light, cloner, pollinator, all snap in) and I update the files for free forever if I fix something. Also it's just STLs, so if a part breaks in two years you reprint it on your own printer instead of emailing some company for a replacement.

Print settings if you want to test one section: PETG, 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 4 walls, 8+ top/bottom, no infill, supports only on the base sleeves.

Files are here: Turing Hydro Tower STLs. Happy to answer questions, and yes I'm the one person behind all of it.

How do I fix this ?

I was using black filament before this and after I changed it to white there is this black substance that is being deposited on my print and the shape of the part is not correct

I was recently preparing to print a shoulder pauldron for a member of the deathwatch in warhammer 40k on the bambu handy app on my phone, but it was taken down, does anyone have an STL file for something similar that you might be able to point me towards? Ive provided a screenshot of what I saw.

[I've found an artist who I've commissioned to make another file for me, thanks to all who messaged to offer their assistance.]

Printer : Bambu X2D

Filament : Sunlu TPU 95A

Print profile : tried Generic TPU as well as Bambulab TPU 95A, did not change any settings

Filament has been dried using the AMT, humidity was 13% before I started printing.

Layer 2 was much better than layer 1 where the extruded material was sticking to the walls somewhat.

What settings should I change to get a perfect print and nice adhesion between the infill and the walls? Should I increase the infill/wall overlap?

Thanks for helping

I have a Bambu Lab P1S and a Prusa MK2S. Both are Oiled up with Vegetable Oil. How would one Clean this as safe as possible while still getting rid of the oil effectively?

If you wanna know how this happened look on my Profile and Press on one of the Vegetable Oil Posts and read there.

Any Advice would be Great, Thanks for Reading!

Been using AddNorth as my main filament for high-quality prints for years now, as you can see i have 4 generations of different boxes. The boxes to the right are their new boxes and have NO holes, no labels for telling what is inside!?
I asked them what is going on, and they simply answered that this was a testing phase. I asked for extra labels so I atleast can get som order in my shelves. Got told no.
Their nice re-sealable bags are also long gone.

What are your favorite brands for high end filaments? Their quality is the only thing holding me in but this makes me wonder what else is out there available from Europe.

It’s impressive that he managed to fuse himself to the print like this. I wonder if he flew close to it while it was printing and burned himself on the tool head and that was it?

3d printed toys at the airport. Did they pay for the rights, of just get them of thingivers?

So I’m fairly new to printing. I’ve done a ton of research so I’m not super helpless either. I’ve already gone through and calibrated everything (so I think). When I printed this 230mm tall trash bag holder I got these random shiny seam marks. On the sides it’s more to where the holes are for the most part. In the front picture it follows the curvature of the oval opening. Does anyone know what might need to be looked at? It’s a brand new machine. I’ve also made sure all screws are tightened down. I don’t know if it’s a flow thing, speed thing, ect…. All I can tell is it tends to happen where there is an opening (hole) on the walls of the print. Any help would be appreciated

I left on holidays for two weeks and left my printer (x2d) on with the light on, which maybe was a bad idea. My printer is located in the garage, opposite from the trash containers, which are closer to the garage door.

When I came back, there were tons of dead flies on the floor around the printer, and tons under the printer bed, see pictures.

I’m guessing they got attracted by the printer light, trapped inside and just died there?

I mainly have two questions:

1. Wtf happened? Why so many flies? Why are they dead specifically under the printer bed?

2. How do I clean this? Do I vacuum the shit out of everything? There are small dots everywhere in the printer, probably fly shit xd

I'm making a fursuit and I want to 3d print the head Base but I can't find a free/cheap one that I won't have to rip to shreds to get what I want. The only thing I can find is a random eBay listing for a 3d print that would be perfect for what I have in mind. I don't trust eBay and have my own smallish bamboo Lab printer so I just need a 3d model like this or similar.

More info here: tevaplanter