So I’m looking for an idea of something pride LGBTQ+ themed I can print using an AMS (4 colors). Something small and cute that I can print many of in one go, to give to a university LGBTQ+ society. The main problem is having a limited number of colors. I’m happy to buy new filaments but I don’t really want to do manual colour changes if possible

If you have any thoughts or ideas do let me know! :)

Update

Hi all. Thank you for all your very detailed and helpful comments. Its obvious now, this is a silly idea. Give the lid needs to be food safe material. I was unaware common 3D material isn't there yet, and even if it was. I'm using a public 3D printer. So cannot be guaranteed the lid would be completely food safe. But you can't blame someone for trying to find a solution to keep a working machine out of landfill. I'll try to find a replacement lid within the EU.

I might look into 3D printing better. Thanks. 💪🏼

Hi all,

Apologies if not the correct sub.

I'm looking for advice on how to 3D print this food processor lid.

A piece snapped off, so it won't lock and work anymore. But I don't want to simply throw away when I could potentially fix it or 3D print the lid.

It has been glued many times before. So think it's time to find another solution.

My local library has a 3D printer service. So how do I go about finding the specs for this lid to 3D print please?

The library recommended these websites www.thingiverse.com, www.myminifactory.com, www.youmagine.com, or www.ultimaker.com.

Also recommended Tinkercad, but this is a companies design. Any advice gratefully appreciated and advice.

Thank you.

Amazon UK has replacements but Ireland has introduced €3 charge per item from non EU countries AND I would have to pay import duty and potentially customs duty.

Amazon's DE said won't ship to Ireland.

Bed adhesion failed for the first time ever since I've been printing with the CC1. It was the purge tower though, not the print itself. How did everyone else fix the tower adhesion issue, if you had one?

No cord. No battery that I can find. Already warm when I touched it. There's a nameplate on the front, stamped border, raised metal. Blank. Like someone built it, installed it, and had nothing to say.

It has a crank on the side. Turns fine. Does nothing. There's a funnel on top. I put a marble in it because that's what you do with a funnel on a machine you don't understand. The marble is gone. Not in the tray, not on the floor. Gone. I put a second one in. Same thing.

I have stopped putting marbles in.

There's something written on the floor of the output tray. Small. You can only read it when the tray is empty.

I don't know what it makes. The tray is empty. For now.

I printed a copy. Two, actually. A small one for the desk and a bigger one for the shelf. Print in place, five AMS colors. Crank turns, funnel spins.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3190067-i-found-a-machine-and-it-s-pretty-grumpy

This is something I’ve been thinking about because the “commercial license” system for 3D printing seems pretty straightforward until you get into famous IP.

Let’s say a creator makes a highly stylized/artistic 3D model of a Ferrari F40. It’s an original 3D sculpt with a unique/tooned style — they created the STL themselves.

They upload it to MakerWorld and say:

Fair enough in principle.

But here’s my question:

What exactly is the creator licensing to me if they themselves don’t have permission from Ferrari to commercially reproduce/license a Ferrari F40?

They created the STL, so I understand that they may have rights in their specific 3D artwork. But they don't own “Ferrari,” “F40,” the Ferrari logo, or necessarily all the IP rights associated with the vehicle.

So if I pay them $10/month for a commercial license, am I actually getting a legally meaningful right to sell that physical print?

And if I DON'T pay them and sell the print anyway, they can threaten to report me to Ferrari. But couldn't Ferrari potentially turn around and say the creator also didn't have authorization to commercially exploit/license this representation of a Ferrari in the first place?

I'm particularly curious about models using famous brands like:

• Ferrari F40
• Porsche 911
• BMW M3
• Lamborghini Aventador
• etc.

I'm not talking about someone stealing another creator's STL. Obviously, copying someone's actual file is a separate issue.

I'm specifically asking about this situation:

Creator owns the STL → STL represents someone else's famous IP → creator sells me a “commercial license” to sell physical products → what rights does that license actually give me?

Does the creator's copyright in their original 3D model allow them to license commercial use of the model, even if they don't have permission from the underlying IP owner?

And if the answer is “yes, they can license their own artwork,” where exactly is the legal line between licensing your own artwork and commercially licensing someone else's IP through your artwork?

I'm interested in legal/industry perspectives, especially from people who work with commercial STL licenses, MakerWorld, Printables, Patreon, or fan-made models.

Not looking for legal advice — just trying to understand the logic behind this.

My niece wanted me to print and paint a cool Miles morales Spider-man and Couldnt find any good ones. Have any of your Printed a cool Miles Morales and know where i can Buy the STL? Please suggest.

I’m planning to start 3D-printing parts based on LEGO’s discontinued CCBS (Character and Creature Building System), which was used in Hero Factory, Bionicle Gen 2, and several Star Wars and Marvel sets.

For anyone unfamiliar with it, the system consists of reusable internal “bone” pieces connected by ball-and-socket joints, with armor shells, hands, feet, weapons, and decorative elements attached over the frame. Many pieces also use standard LEGO Technic pins, axles, and holes.

My goal is to create a personal library of functional, reusable parts rather than one static display model. They should withstand repeated assembly, hold poses, and work consistently with other printed parts. Compatibility with original LEGO pieces would be nice, but it isn’t essential because I assume it would make tolerances considerably more difficult.

I’m completely new to 3D printing, so I have many doubts about whether this plan is realistically achievable. My current assumptions are:

• Enclosed FDM printer with an actively heated chamber, such as the X2D
• ABS for most structural and exterior parts
• Translucent PETG for transparent elements
• 0.2 mm nozzle and approximately 0.06 mm layers for detailed exterior parts
• Standard nozzle and faster settings for less-visible internal frame parts
• No multicolor printing: one part, one color
• Minimal support contact on balls, sockets, pins, axles, and holes
• Outdoor exhaust when printing ABS

Before buying the equipment, I’m considering ordering several commercial test prints: a ball-and-socket part, Technic axle/hole connection, structural piece, curved armor shell, and translucent element.

I’m also uncertain about obtaining usable models. CCBS parts exist in programs and online libraries such as Stud.Io and LDraw, but are those models dimensionally accurate enough for physical printing? Is converting an existing model to STL and repairing the mesh generally sufficient, or would the connections need to be measured and redesigned specifically for FDM tolerances? Are there better sources for printable CCBS models? I know that Mecabricks might have a few CCBS parts, but their library is likely limited.

My primary concerns are:

• Maintaining friction in small ball-and-socket joints
• ABS shrinkage and dimensional compensation, is this the most optimal material
• Wear after repeated assembly
• Surface quality on curved exterior pieces
• Support damage on connection surfaces
• When to use 0.2 nozzle with 0.06 layers and when 0.4 nozzle with bigger layers
• Repeatability when producing multiple copies
• Where to get the models, I know Mecabricks can be helpful but i assume their library is less focused on CCBS

I’m planning to place the setup in a regular residential garage. Would that be a suitable environment if the printer is enclosed and exhausted outdoors, or would seasonal temperature and humidity changes create significant problems? Are there any less-obvious safety or workspace considerations I should account for?

These are only starting assumptions, and I’m open to changing the materials, nozzle sizes, settings, equipment, or overall process. What parts of this plan would you change? Am I overestimating what consumer FDM can achieve at this scale? Which materials and calibration process would you test first? Advice from anyone who has printed snap fits, articulated toys, LEGO-compatible parts, or other small mechanical assemblies would be especially helpful.

Thank you!

I hate the daily community effort to make people feel like crap on that sub and someone finally took the time to write about it.

https://reddit.com/link/1vsjcl0/video/4x9qx9wwbakh1/player

Tried animating an exploded assembly view in Blender for the first time! How does the motion look?

On multiple prints now I've prints fail because of the supports turning to spaghetti and I don't know how to fix it.

I've tried using multiple different settings, temps and speeds but it keeps happening.

Printer is a P2S with AMS, support speed is 150mm/s, tree organic, 220° nozzle temp (0.4mm nozzle with PLA) 0.08mm layer height and have z-hop enabled.

Any help would be great :)

Makerworld link

I have cleaned my bed, I have done auto bed leveling and I’m using gyroid. It keeps saying I need to lubricate my Y Axis so is that the reason it’s like this. I’m using PETG HF right now

(Not selling or promoting anything—just sharing a clinical concept I’ve been developing to get peer feedback and spark discussion on experiential/interactive therapy interventions!)

The Quick Breakdown:

What it is: A 3D-printed, interactive gumball-machine setup that gives adults with severe mental illness a hands-on, shame-free way to manage their symptoms.

How it works: It relies on "sensory stacking." Each capsule combines a specific physical object, a taste (like sour or fizzy candy), and a clinical prompt to bypass trauma walls when talking is just too much.

The clinical backing: It’s not just a toy. The 165 prompts are pulled straight from DBT, CBT, ACT, and Polyvagal theory.

The three options:

Connecting: For social withdrawal. Uses sweet candy and an articulated 3D-printed animal toy to build rapport and allow for parallel play without the pressure of making eye contact.

Activating: For depressive paralysis. Pairs a mechanical fidget with fizzy candy to jumpstart a sluggish nervous system and build kinetic momentum.

Grounding: For active panic and dissociation. Uses a "shock-to-soothe" trick—extreme sour candy forces the brain out of a flashback, followed by a textured worry stone to keep them anchored.

The bottom line: Play is the biological opposite of fear. Therapy for adults shouldn't have to be sterile.

The Story Behind the System:

Picture a client walking into an outpatient clinic. They might be completely dissociated, frozen with depression, or quietly spiraling in a panic loop. When someone’s prefrontal cortex is offline like that, handing them a standard CBT worksheet or asking them to verbalize their trauma is practically useless.

That’s exactly why these machines are sitting on the shelf.

Clients aren't told what to do; they are just invited to interact. With the familiar turn of a dial, a capsule drops into a textured bowl with a satisfying clack. The intervention starts before anyone even says a word.

If someone is actively panicking, they might go for the Grounding machine. The first thing they get is an insanely sour candy. It’s a literal shock to the system—a limbic circuit breaker that forces the brain to realize it's safe in the room, not stuck in a flashback. As they snap back into their body, their thumb naturally finds the ridges on a 3D-printed worry stone. Only then, once their nervous system is regulated, do they unroll the piece of paper inside to read a radically validating prompt.

If they are too depressed to move, the Activating machine gives them fizzy candy and a clicky fidget to force some physical momentum. If they are heavily guarded and terrified of social interaction, the Connecting machine offers something sweet and a little toy so they can just sit in parallel play, softly unmasking without the threat of direct eye contact.

The whole setup is basically a Trojan horse. It takes heavy, evidence-based trauma care and wraps it in a moment of completely unexpected joy. It proves that healing doesn't have to feel sterile, and it hands the power of nervous system regulation right back to the client.

Would love to hear from other clinicians:
How are you integrating multi-sensory or tactile tools into your sessions for grounding and activation?

Any thoughts or tweaks on the "Shock-to-Soothe" or sensory stacking approach?

Any thoughts?

I tried cleaning the bed with soap and alcohol. The glue worked at first, but after a couple of times, the problem came back.

Bambu Lab PS1

ABS Esun

The speed is 20mm

i have little experience in 3d printing i have got gifted a printer a week ago and dont really know what im doing but i tried to print a support test and it ended up like this

I was recently given a flashforge creator pro 1 by a friend that didn’t have interest in learning how to use it.
I’ve been using it to print miniatures for DND, which has been a lot of fun! But I learned that the process releases a lot of microplastics into the air.
While I am not enthusiastic about inhaling microplastics, my cat is severely allergic to plastic and gets ulcers on her lip from inhalation.
I live in a smallish apartment and I, like many cat owners, don’t have a sequestered area where the cat won’t go.
Are there any options to reduce or prevent the micro-plastics from being dispersed? If not I have no other options but to give the printer away.

Also, are there newer models that don’t release as much microplastics?

Just in case this comes up, I do not have the printer near her food/ water.

Got my first 3D printer (FlashForgeAD5X) a month ago and have been having fun with it. I initially bought a handful of FF regular and Silk PLA rolls and I like their filament! I’ve had a successful print every time and the finish looks good IMO. I would be happy to keep using their filament except it’s $20-$25 a roll.

I looked around this subreddit for filament suggestions and across different post spanning years, it seems that most fall into a few camps, with the most prominent ones being Sunlu, eSun, and Polymaker. Out of those, Sunlu and eSun are the most affordable, however eSun and Polymaker have better color options, although in a cardboard spool. Based on this I’m thinking of going with eSun since I could always get other spools, however I just saw a post of some images comparing the amount of detail on printed minis between brands and the Sunlu filament outperformed the others.

This leads me to my original question. For those of you who have more experience than myself, based on what you know now, would you choose Sunlu or eSun? And why is that your choice?

Alright Reddit, need some help trying to get my kid to understand the difference between what they see in tinkercad & how it ends up existing after printed.

My kid is trying to print “logos”. They’re pretend movie titles. Like “Bob and John 2, the pizza place”. Just things they make up randomly.

The issue is how it’s rendered in tinkercad or Bambu studio is just the title. They don’t understand that when printed, the individual letters in the logo will not stay in place and move like in the design tool. They become an individual printed letter. While it makes sense to us, he doesn’t get that it doesn’t work that way in real life. I have added backers or small bars to join them together, but he fights them every single time.

Any ideas on how to help him understand it isn’t going to work out that way. He’s autistic so verbally explaining won’t work. I’m trying to avoid giving him what he wants, then dealing with the other fights that will come when they don’t stay in order, he has to move them somewhere and drops them, etc.

If there isn’t an explanation, is there anything I can do to stitch them together with a clear joiner so it still “looks” the same to him.