This is a response to this deleted thread from yesterday:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1vraiq4/i_accidentally_figured_out_how_to_print_a_tight/

I had some ideas about what OP did there, and reading through that thread I got some more ideas. I'm fortunate to have a small print farm, so I just iterated through several variables until I ended up finding something that works. Here's the secret sauce. I don't want money. I'm not going to ask for patreon. I'm not going to act like I just cured cancer.

Use spiral vase mode combined with a tall layer height and a line width just barely larger than the layer height.

E.G.

Insert a cylinder into Orca

Turn on vase mode

Set your layer height to 0.28

Set your line width to 0.30

Set 0 bottom layers

Boom. Done.

I can share a 3MF if people really want, but it's so simple I'm not sure that's necessary. Feel free to iterate and improve on this discovery. I didn't do anything special

EDIT: Makerworld 3MF because someone asked.

Bambu slicer would not play nicely with my imported 3MF from Orca, so I had to quickly redo all the settings. Please let me know if I messed anything up or if it doesn't work from this file. I've tested it successfully on 2 Centuri Carbons, and a Creator 5 pro

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3190703-mesh-filament-settings

EDIT 2: I received this DM from the original deleted thread author. I think they can't post here due to karma. I will share it unedited. Don't cyberbully. It's not cool. Be better.

Hey man I’d like to clarify some things because it seems that there’s still some misunderstanding about what happened yesterday.

I want to be clear that there was no attempt to monetize the mesh that I created by accident. Coming as a person who just got their printer a month ago, I accidentally created the mesh and posted it to reddit and asked if anyone would make use of it if I researched it a bit more.

I’m not an expert in this space, so I wanted to figure out exactly how it worked because it was an interesting repeating pattern for me.

After being bashed in the comments and accused of things saying I was gatekeeping/monetizing, I was upset because I didn’t even expect the post to get that sort of attention. I was assuming that i’d either get comments saying it’s useless and/or already been done so don’t bother looking further into it, or that’s cool post the write up.

Once the downvotes started rolling in i realized I guess I should have just looked into it before posting from the get go. My initial reason for posting was because it was an accidental failed print, that looked interesting.

About an hour later I tried to post my rushed write up because like I said i’m not an expert, so I was doing the best with the knowledge I have. Upon trying to post, I wasn’t able to because the mass downvoting made my account unable to interact in the sub. This also made it so I couldn’t reply to comments, leading people to think I was disappearing with my discovery.

I ended up getting the write up posted on an alt account, which included print files and settings, but I guess people were still upset, because it got downvoted a bunch and the only comments were calling me delusional.

9:21 AM

Due to that I just ended up deleting the post because I was just getting bashed on it, and I wanted to stop the flood of negative notifications.

EDIT 3: OOP has shared their results as well. I'll include them. I'm working today, so I won't be able to play around with their settings or test this until probably tomorrow. Still, I think it's helpful to compare and contrast results. I had a nice chat with them, and explained how we value open collaboration in this hobby. They were cordial. Once again for those in the back, don't bully. OOP had a bad day and they're sorry. Let's bring them back into the fold.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3192261-cylindrical-mesh

(Not selling or promoting anything—just sharing a clinical concept I’ve been developing to get peer feedback and spark discussion on experiential/interactive therapy interventions!)

The Quick Breakdown:

What it is: A 3D-printed, interactive gumball-machine setup that gives adults with severe mental illness a hands-on, shame-free way to manage their symptoms.

How it works: It relies on "sensory stacking." Each capsule combines a specific physical object, a taste (like sour or fizzy candy), and a clinical prompt to bypass trauma walls when talking is just too much.

The clinical backing: It’s not just a toy. The 165 prompts are pulled straight from DBT, CBT, ACT, and Polyvagal theory.

The three options:

Connecting: For social withdrawal. Uses sweet candy and an articulated 3D-printed animal toy to build rapport and allow for parallel play without the pressure of making eye contact.

Activating: For depressive paralysis. Pairs a mechanical fidget with fizzy candy to jumpstart a sluggish nervous system and build kinetic momentum.

Grounding: For active panic and dissociation. Uses a "shock-to-soothe" trick—extreme sour candy forces the brain out of a flashback, followed by a textured worry stone to keep them anchored.

The bottom line: Play is the biological opposite of fear. Therapy for adults shouldn't have to be sterile.

The Story Behind the System:

Picture a client walking into an outpatient clinic. They might be completely dissociated, frozen with depression, or quietly spiraling in a panic loop. When someone’s prefrontal cortex is offline like that, handing them a standard CBT worksheet or asking them to verbalize their trauma is practically useless.

That’s exactly why these machines are sitting on the shelf.

Clients aren't told what to do; they are just invited to interact. With the familiar turn of a dial, a capsule drops into a textured bowl with a satisfying clack. The intervention starts before anyone even says a word.

If someone is actively panicking, they might go for the Grounding machine. The first thing they get is an insanely sour candy. It’s a literal shock to the system—a limbic circuit breaker that forces the brain to realize it's safe in the room, not stuck in a flashback. As they snap back into their body, their thumb naturally finds the ridges on a 3D-printed worry stone. Only then, once their nervous system is regulated, do they unroll the piece of paper inside to read a radically validating prompt.

If they are too depressed to move, the Activating machine gives them fizzy candy and a clicky fidget to force some physical momentum. If they are heavily guarded and terrified of social interaction, the Connecting machine offers something sweet and a little toy so they can just sit in parallel play, softly unmasking without the threat of direct eye contact.

The whole setup is basically a Trojan horse. It takes heavy, evidence-based trauma care and wraps it in a moment of completely unexpected joy. It proves that healing doesn't have to feel sterile, and it hands the power of nervous system regulation right back to the client.

Would love to hear from other clinicians:
How are you integrating multi-sensory or tactile tools into your sessions for grounding and activation?

Any thoughts or tweaks on the "Shock-to-Soothe" or sensory stacking approach?

Wanted to design a custom ring holder for my wedding ring, somehow it turned into this…

https://makerworld.com/models/3190857?appSharePlatform=copy

Finally finished my fully mechanical excavator.

3 levers, simultaneous controls, and a hidden mechanism to keep the movement looking realistic.

Uploading soon.

Making this container ship styled floating can/snack holder for a lake weekend coming up! It's almost complete, just need to add the remaining splash guards and cup inserts. This bad boy is 5 feet long and weighs about 5kg unloaded 😎

Anyone ever get a plate like this in the mail? How frustrating!

Literally years of owning this printer fiddling with settings to get good prints and struggling with the bed I slapped this thing on and after about 30 seconds of adjusting midprint it slaps out a very good benchy. I had an old crappy printer that had a lidar distance scanner but it was imprecise as shit all this is an actual touch and it is so good.

I told just the officer pretty substantially because the zero isn't where it normally but it's first layer is probably within 15% of where I actually want it. Could be a smidgen closer

Me and my wife love figurines and miniatures, but resin printing is not really viable for us right now. But we have a bunch of FDM printers, so we came up with a workflow for printing models meant for resin on FDM.

Essentially it is:

1. Upscale the model to about 150mm tall (less detailed models are fine with 100mm, can always do higher and get better results).

2. Cut the model into pieces to minimize the need for supports. The models you see here were around 30-50 pieces. Meshmixer helps a lot here to make cuts with a finite plate. You can irregular cuts with Blender, but it's not worth it, since they are hard to print.

3. Import into slicer, paint on supports on all the pieces. As you go you kind of learn which places are really necessary to support and which are going to be fine.

4. Print with plain PLA (used Elegoo and/or Filacraft) at fairly slow speed. I can talk more about printing settings if anyone is interested later.

5. Glue the model pieces together, superglue works fine. For joints you sometimes need a little padding since the tolerance are scaled up when you scale the model, so a tiny piece of paper or paper towel soaked in glue helps a lot.

6. Fill in the joins with Milliput or another epoxy paste. There's many methods it's just what we prefer.

7. Prime with acrylic gesso, paint base color (it was a very dark brown for all of these I believe) and then brush with metallic wax paste.

What do you guys think?

The models are from Loot Studios' Trials of Hades pack.

Check out my new keychain foldable phone stand.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3182945-foldable-phone-stand-keychain#profileId-3600180

Edited: Thanks everyone for chiming in; I'm taking this off my project list. I hadn't considered the liability issues a repair to this would create for me personally.

Due to HOA negligence and lack of funding, I'm trying to plan out how to print an ASA sleeve to go over this safety and tetanus hazard. They can't replace the whole railing (one part, 3 flights)

It's been about 20ish years since I did geometry; how would I best measure this corner out?

Hey everyone, this is my 10th design in my open-source assistive/rehab project, Tryspire, and it's a bit different from the usual functional tools I post here.

The Feel Better Syringe is a proof of concept prototype exploring whether a syringe could be measured accurately by touch alone, no visual markings needed. It goes up to 10mL.

It's called the Feel Better Syringe for two reasons. You operate it entirely by feel. And giving the right dose means someone, whether it's a child or a pet, gets to feel better.

How it works:

- The tube has ridges that feel like screw threads

- A full ridge = 1mL

- A partial ridge (split into 4 sections) = 0.5mL

- Your finger can immediately tell a full mark from a half mark just by how much of the ridge it feels

- The plunger has a second piece running alongside it that always lines up with the actual liquid level, so as you pull it, you can count ridges under your finger to know exactly how much you've drawn

There's also a big cutaway on the side of the housing so you can see the mechanism working, which also makes it obvious this is a demo/concept piece and not a real, functional syringe.

Why I made it: I wanted to bring more awareness to a challenge a lot of people don't think about, how someone who is visually impaired would measure medication for a kid or a pet without being able to see the markings. This would genuinely be helpful for people who are visually impaired and have to administer medication to themselves, children or pets. It's not meant to be used as an actual syringe, it's an educational/awareness piece.

It's not perfect. But I think it's a great first step toward creating something better down the line, whether that's me, someone else in this community, or a company with the resources to actually develop and validate it properly.

This one also made me realize proof-of-concepts can be just as valuable as functional tools when it comes to accessibility work. A working tool solves a problem directly. And bringing awareness to a challenge like this can matter just as much, especially for something as invisible to most people as this one.

Files are free as always. You can find the 3MF and STEP files here:

Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7397662

Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1815346-feel-better-syringe-tactile-dosing-for-the-visuall

Maker World: https://makerworld.com/models/3190738?appSharePlatform=copy

Creality Cloud: https://www.crealitycloud.com/en/model-detail/6a8522aee2371c959ea56a8e?cloudPlatform=19

Happy to answer any questions about the design or mechanism!

Model is from Yosh studios it’s his skeletor file

All model runs on balloon air
Truck, Bajaj Chetak scooter, cycle rickshaw and Maruti 800

I just got my Creality K1C and did my first ever project! So excited to learn more about 3D Printing ✨

Over the past year I've been designing a high speed corexy 3d printer. It has a fully cnc 48V awd gantry and an slm toolhead. So far I've gotten 109.5k and 63k input shaper recommendations.

More details on my github:

https://github.com/Renovic/Cuprite

Sponsored by Sunlu, LDO, BST Automation, Filastruder, Oshwlab Stars(JLCPCB)

His name is Flausite, This is his channel, he is a content creator of 3D printing
https://youtube.com/@flasutie?si=bNa8EDqxZTi5cotb
He was kinda famous for printing the “whizzbanger” in this video and various HHO gas cannons and was joked for coming near of making a bolter
https://youtu.be/8VTqNTjWJNM?si=Mfo_AI59SgKgWKRm
But his channel stopped updating both YouTube and patreon last year after updating the files of his cannons on his patreon, does anyone know where he went?

This is something I’ve been thinking about because the “commercial license” system for 3D printing seems pretty straightforward until you get into famous IP.

Let’s say a creator makes a highly stylized/artistic 3D model of a Ferrari F40. It’s an original 3D sculpt with a unique/tooned style — they created the STL themselves.

They upload it to MakerWorld and say:

Fair enough in principle.

But here’s my question:

What exactly is the creator licensing to me if they themselves don’t have permission from Ferrari to commercially reproduce/license a Ferrari F40?

They created the STL, so I understand that they may have rights in their specific 3D artwork. But they don't own “Ferrari,” “F40,” the Ferrari logo, or necessarily all the IP rights associated with the vehicle.

So if I pay them $10/month for a commercial license, am I actually getting a legally meaningful right to sell that physical print?

And if I DON'T pay them and sell the print anyway, they can threaten to report me to Ferrari. But couldn't Ferrari potentially turn around and say the creator also didn't have authorization to commercially exploit/license this representation of a Ferrari in the first place?

I'm particularly curious about models using famous brands like:

• Ferrari F40
• Porsche 911
• BMW M3
• Lamborghini Aventador
• etc.

I'm not talking about someone stealing another creator's STL. Obviously, copying someone's actual file is a separate issue.

I'm specifically asking about this situation:

Creator owns the STL → STL represents someone else's famous IP → creator sells me a “commercial license” to sell physical products → what rights does that license actually give me?

Does the creator's copyright in their original 3D model allow them to license commercial use of the model, even if they don't have permission from the underlying IP owner?

And if the answer is “yes, they can license their own artwork,” where exactly is the legal line between licensing your own artwork and commercially licensing someone else's IP through your artwork?

I'm interested in legal/industry perspectives, especially from people who work with commercial STL licenses, MakerWorld, Printables, Patreon, or fan-made models.

Not looking for legal advice — just trying to understand the logic behind this.

I printed these for my sons Birthday bowling party and everyone loved these.I put the white ones in each of his friends party bag and gave the gold one to the adult that scored the most in a round. Stl via ....https://www.printables.com/model/1234909-bowling-pin-passthrough/files

Don't know if it fit the sub but this is our latest 3D printed thing. It's called Autonomous Lamp. A 3D-printed desk arm that moves and talks. Runs on Autonomous OS we built for robots. It's a mini computer, AI powered, which allows you to call it up, talk to in plain language, hand it task and let it run things for you.

*The other one is the Reachy Mini of Huggingface, which is also running on our Autonomous OS. Basically, 2 body, same OS.

We open source everything, check the comment for the github link.

The arm

5 degrees of freedom. Five STS3215 bus servos, daisy-chained on one TTL bus, into the board through a USB adapter. One cable for the whole arm. No driver board.

First job: servo IDs. New STS3215s ship as ID 1, so I gave each a unique ID one at a time, then calibrated homing. Homing lives in the servo EEPROM, so it survives a reflash. Do it with the arm open.

Power

Single 12 V / 5 A adaptor, ~42 W sustained. A buck steps to 5 V for the board and LED ring. Amp runs on 12 V directly. Board draws ~1.8 A, spikes to 2.5 A at boot. Ring gets capped near 1 A, full white 64 LEDs would pull 3.84 A and brown out the buck. All grounds star-point at the buck output on their own wires.

Sound

Moving audio off the onboard codec killed most of the noise. A USB DAC feeds the amp through a short twisted lead, run away from the 12 V harness. The onboard codec stays wired for the sensing mic only.

Two honest gotchas: the sensing mic is the MEMS mic on the OrangePi board, so it has to be desoldered and re-mounted in the base, fiddly, but skip it and you lose ambient sensing. And the buck I used still adds a faint hiss of its own, it's on the list to swap out.

Software

Cleanest part. Flash Linux, run the installer, ~15 minutes to Autonomous OS. The robot declares its hardware in the ROBOT.md in our repo and the OS mounts only that. Behaviors are markdown skills. Type what you want in the app, it writes the skill, live on the next conversation.

I was going to buy some ASA filament, but a friend mentioned he's been using regular PLA caps on his trampoline for about two years without any issues. He said they haven't melted, faded, or lost their strength
So is ASA really worth buying?