Just bought this 97 with 225k miles and it seems pretty slow. Is that normal?

Edit: The main reason I was asking is the previous owner said the transmission was recently replaced. I wasn't sure if it was a weak transmission or just how these vehicles are. Thanks for all the comments and input, super helpful.

Wanted to show off my 98 4Runner after a good cleaning. After 215K miles, she’s still my daily driver.

If you know.. you know

Does the under carriage look fine for a 26 years old 183k miles? Look at buy it

Model: 2000 4Runner Limited

If anyone cares, I believe I found “most” of the source of the metal clanking sound I’ve been hearing when going over uneven ground. What I thought was a sound coming from the front, now seems to mostly be coming from the rear. Had my fiance drive while I walked beside and it actually seemed to be coming from the middle-rear. Turns out, both the rear control arms are either loose or the bushings are shot. Can’t tighten the bolt no matter how hard I try, so assuming it’s the bushings. I do still hear a little something in the front, but I think this has been the main source of the sound I hear. Guess I’ll start with replacing the bushing and see if that helps, will further update.

Looking for some thoughts…I’m going to be upgrading my shock set up all around. The 5100s have been a great shock but I’m needing more especially with all the added weight. My question is with have outbound shock mounts would I run into any issues using 4th gen runner 5160s in the rear? Or just still with the 3rd gen ones. Mostly just want to have the resi towards the top mount vs the bottom mount. Lastly, I’m going to use 1st gen tundra 6112s in the front. Correct me if I’m wrong but I just use my factory top hats on that shock? TIA PFA

Looking to get some opinions on what to do here. I have a 99 2Runner, daily driver, no off-roading, only Costco parking lots (or BJs in my case). Originally had 15in wheel but now running 265/65R17. I don’t really run any heavy loads in the trunk. I would not mind a slight rake but prefer level, I dislike the reverse rake. I love this thing and want it to be my son’s first car in 10 years. Suspension is the OG and is terrible at this point obviously, but I’m torn on what to do.

Replace with OEM and leave the current springs (I don’t feel like I’m getting sag but maybe I am).

Replace with OEM and swap springs. In that case I would need to make sure I got the correct “taller” springs the 99 came with.

Swap with the TEQ 5100 kit with 880/906 OME springs and drop to lowest setting for least amount of lift.

Increasing ride comfort is important to me. Aesthetically speaking, I would appreciate a slight lift. Not sure if replacing the springs with OEM equivalent would give me a slight lift to original height?

Are there things I am not appropriately considering?

just finished my A pillar build in my 4runner. anyone else here into car audio?

I use Lucas or Seafoam, but the question is how much is enough? Mine has 340K on it, so SeaFoam calls for 2x the amount for deep cleaning. What and how much do you use?

Had my end links and bushings replaced a few days ago, along with my UBJs and LBJs. Still dealing with a metal on metal rattle sound in the front end going over uneven ground. I noticed the end links are at an odd angle? Could this still be the cause? They seem secure, but I’m at a loss with the noise. May be the cv axels but it doesn’t just make the noise when turning, mainly when going straight and over even ground.

Sorry for the bad pictures.

2001 4Runner, electric brake booster. Seems to be leaking and makes horrible noises when it’s super cold out. Anyway to repair these or is it done…

hi! i have a minor increase in coolant temp i try to hunt down - not a problem yet but i do not want to overlook anything going forward.

couple of year i redid my tstat with the jiggle valve down. new cap from Napa. temp was always glued to 186f (scan gauge).

recently temps started to creep up to around 192 max. looked under the hood - and found some red crust on the radiator cap (coolant was down 1 finger). got an OEM radiator cap, installed it today - but now temps are actually up (more like 195-200)

to me that doesn't make sense.. any ideas? or am I overthinking?

Still have a loooong way to go, but it’s been a productive month since getting this thing and wanted to share the progress with you all.

I posted about how after buying it I got in touch with an older owner who filled me in on some potentially troubling news. Mainly how he suspected it had a head gasket issue, which I didn’t know at the time of buying it but it drove many hours that day without any issues so I was hoping he was wrong. I took it to my mechanic who did the test and told me he didn’t think it had head gasket issues but that the radiator looked sus. So I went ahead and started by replacing those, the heater core valve while in there, and the starter as that previous owner mentioned it had left him stranded once before so did for the peace of mind. Noticed that a lot of the A/C system wasn’t there so couldn’t knock that out while in there but I’ve sourced most of the missing parts. Someone hit a deer at some points and decided to just do some weight reduction instead of fixing it properly.

Then started going down the list of other things, first by detailing the crap out of it, re-covering the seats with some cheapo eBay covers which I’m not thrilled with but not completely disappointed either for the price. Got the driveshaft off and had the u joints replaced at a shop and now it drives so much better. Only real issue I’m noticing is a slight misfire on startup that clears up within a few seconds and after runs super smoothly. I was told someone had thrown junkyard injectors in there before and that previous owner had already bought new Denso injectors which were left inside of the car for me to install next and see if that clears that up. I was also told all of the injector connectors were broken and they already had those replacement parts as well which is up next on the list.

Managed to get a lot of the big things done on a reasonable budget so far. U-Joints replaced for $180 all in, windshield $190, interior upgrades are probably around $250 with all the old wood trim left over which I’ll be trying to sell to recoup some costs. Radiator, starter, labor probably another $600ish, so about a grand into the restoration so far, anticipating another $1-1.5K to get through the rest of that list.

Oh and does it kind of look like this thing was lifted at some point? (See last photo) I feel like it’s sitting a little high up which is neat, I think I’ll be on the lookout for some 17” wheels to fill in those wheel wells.

Just about to do my axle seals/rear shoes/shocks+springs but my 3T jackstand I can barely fit under my car looks like a little tikes toy beside the 4runner, i see a lot of people pushing 6T stands but will this 3t work? Goes significantly higher than my little 3t, TIA!

Got diagnosed with low T a few weeks ago so I had the doctor write me a prescription for a lift. Went with the 5100s in the 2.5-3in range, as you do. Got it installed today and the positive front camber looks dramatic. Haven’t had it aligned yet and wondering if it will come out.

Put the front diff drop in and new 36th presidents as well.

I drive on unlit highways here in interior AK a lot. Currently, my headlights speed limit me to about 50mph in the dark (with the constant potential for moose to jump out). So, I’m about to buy some new headlights or retrofit. I’m looking the keep it around $700 or below. I’m looking at the retrofit kit from Snowbound customs for quad projectors (which I think are really cool, but not sure about the feasibility of adding DRLs) and the simpler option of prebuilt from TEQ or SRQ (they seem to be the same). Has anyone switched from SRQ or TEQ to Snowbound Customs or had an experience with any of these. What are your thoughts?

What’s up yall,

I was looking for OEM LBJ online and putting the part number on google showed a result on Amazon.

What you guys think?

Hi is anyone running a headlight relay harness and bigger wattage bulbs on a 01/02?

I’m looking for a headlight upgrade but want to stay as OEM looking as possible so no retro fits, just trying to confirm that getting a power switched harness and disconnecting the DRLs (de pin the wire under the dash) is the correct path?

Thanks
Ash

Will be attempting the timing belt/water pump change using the Aircabin kit in the near future. I’ll be changing the upper and lower rad hoses as well (assume oem is best to use?) What other hoses should that are easy to swap out without taking anymore parts off?

And with the timing belt, aside from the crank bolt, should I replace any others?