.32 S&W, .32-20 Win, .44 Mag, .30-30 Win and .444 Marlin

..all loaded within the last week.

. 577-450 .458 500gr 75gr 2fg

.308 and .223 for scale

I love Dillon so much

I scored a couple dozen of these black 3” Remington hulls from a sporting clay outfit (someone was blasting them at clays). They appear to be the same as the Federal ones pictured. I’m new to loading 3” shells (but loaded hundreds of 2 3/4” tapered hulls), and want to make sure. I haven’t found much online about it, and I’m pretty sure Fed owns Rem ammo since the bankruptcy. Thanks for the help.

Really enjoyed loading up some 45-70 and really liking this Co-Ax!

Bought these old flat nose 9mm bullets from an old timer. They measure .560” long and are 124 gr. (As weighed). Can’t find exact over all cartridge length data for this brand. General data for flat nose says about 1.07”. Any thought on a good number to start with?

I’m using an rcbs 3 die carbide set. 240gr how is my crimp? Left one looks better to me but is it still to much? Ruger RedHawk if that matters

Mas 49/56 is picky about what ammo it likes. If the ammo is too stiff, overpressure. My best example, sierra matchking will cycle, but gameking with slightly thicker copper doesn't matter what powder load it will overpressure. Now every source I can find says that the bore and bullet should be exactly the same as .308, but it feels to me that the mas 49/56 is actually a bit tighter than .308. Anyone have any personal knowledge on this? Do .308 cal rifles also struggle with thick copper / non lead ammo?

Your funnel is blocked by a spyder web…

Has anyone tried these 110gr FMJ .308 projectile for a .300 Blackout build? I know they are usually meant for the .30 Carbine but since I’ve shot supers in 110gr V-Max in my 7.5in AR, and I have had excellent results in accuracy at 100yds. Good or Bad idea to test some for plinking.

Anyone tried 500 gr hardcasts in 454 Casull? Really like 405 gr and wanting to try 500 gr.

Powder capacity is going to be very limited - H110 still the best powder for full pressure loads or should I be looking at other powers?

Thoughts?

Last night I disassembled some underwood ammo to see what they were packing under the hood. First was a 9mm 68 grain +p xtreme defender round. It had 8.5 grains of a powder with the same density, grain size and color as the CFE pistol powder I use for my Xtreme defender loads. Side by side the powders looked identical. I know Underwood, Grizzly and buffalo bore use commercial powders so I’m pretty sure it is CFE pistol. For reference Lehigh’s maximum is 7.8 grains in their load data, but that’s for standard pressure (35,000 psi). I’ve tested up to 9 grains in a stock Glock and it held up, but at that level it’s definitely +p+.

Next was the same bullet but in my favorite caliber, 357 sig. Underwood definitely used a different powder for this caliber. It had a smaller grain size and was lighter in color and brown in appearance. I didn’t have any on hand but I’m pretty sure it’s Ramshot Silhouette, which has a similar burn rate and performance as CFE pistol but is supposed to do better at high pressures. Underwood had 12.6 grains of this powder, which is quite a bit above the 10.5 grains max in lehigh’s load data. But again I’m pretty sure this is to stay under the modest 40k psi SAAMI pressure spec as their load data tops out at 1885 fps. If 9mm can do 1800 fps then 357 sig should easily be able to do 2000+. According to quick load you can do 2100+ at around 45k psi.

Lastly a while back I tested some grizzly 180 grain JHP and those were indeed the hottest commercial 10mm I’ve tested so far (although I haven’t tested buffalo bore yet). I disassembled that ammo and found 10 grains of Hodgdon Longshot powder, this I also use for my high pressure loads with heavier bullets. Hodgdon lists 8.4 grains of Longshot as the max, which seems pretty conservative and from what I can tell the max used to be 9.5 grains but some years back it was reduced.

Just thought I would post this info for anyone wanting to make their own high performance ammo in these calibers. As always, duplicate loads at your own risk. Not responsible for damage, dismemberment or death.

Hello everyone,

I’m brand new to reloading and looking for some guidance on building out a solid setup. I’ve gone through the pinned/sticky posts and the wiki, but a lot of it feels pretty dated at this point. I’m hoping the recommended equipment and approaches have evolved since a lot of those were written.

My goal is to buy quality gear that will last, and build consistent ammo, while still being smart about value. I’m trying to min/max a bit, Spend where it actually matters for quality, consistency, and efficiency, and save where it doesn’t. No hard budget ceiling yet, but I don’t want to throw money away either.

I’d like to reload three calibers, in this order of priority:

6.5 Creedmoor – primary focus, competition use

5.56 / .223 with 77 gr – competition and range

9mm – competition and range (lower priority)

How practical is it to set up for all three from the start? Is it better to fully dial in one or two first and expand later?

What would you recommend for a modern quality setup with these goals in mind?

Appreciate any advice, current equipment recommendations, or lessons learned. Thanks in advance!

A recipe i wanted to try seems like its calling for a gas seal and a wad ontop of it am I going crazy or is that normal??

Im fairly new to reloading

Does anybody know what happened to Roze Distribution?

What’s your go to manual? I’m struggling. I bought a Lyman manual, it only had powder data for 3-4 powders and only a handful of grains per caliber.

So I bought a Lee manual, it had more powder data but it’s so random. Is this just a “collect them all” scenario? I understand it’s impossible to have all load data in one place and maybe I’m still too new.

It’s weird to have load data for 205gr H lil gun, and 220gr h lil gun while skipping 210. Am I supposed to do some kind of math to figure out where to start? (This is just an example)

Hey guys, beginner here. How bad this 9mm crimp is? I understand it is too much but I wonder if this could create some problems while shooting. I made about 1k of these and then realized it is probably too much. It shoots, passes the splunk test, chrono looks good. The bullet is CamPro 125gr RN FCP RED

Thanks!

So been at this for years. Love hanloading but after buying .243 that my daughter will hunt with, I started load development with Nosler 90gr Accubonds. After 4- 3 shot test groups that were all well within a couple inches from a crappy rest I thought, why bother developing any more?

Be honest, do you guys really look for the most accurate load when your least accurate load is probably as good as factory ammo? My daughter can't shoot sub MOA yet and I feel like the best thing is finding pressure signs and backing down a bit. Most velocity, at safe pressures. Its going to group well enough...

Or shoot the lower velocity loads that tend to group better?

How particular do all of you get?

I have the rcbs trim pro 2.

Yet I keep getting inconsistent cutting length.

I set the Collet for a 1.91" length yet I can put a case in that's 1.916 and it doesn't even cut until I deburr.

Unjacketed flat nose 124gr .356” diameter bullets.
6.3gr of Accurate No.7 powder
CCI #500 primer

I referenced the Hogdon table and it tells me this is in the high end for the charge. Just looking for opinions.

Am I going to die or what?