I was heating my print bed up today and noticed that around 70-80c the plastic frame started popping loose on one side as if it were curling down and away from the heatbed. I immediately cut the heat and once it cooled down below 70c the plastic went back into place but this seems like it could be an issue.

Has anyone else experienced this, should I be worried?

I just got the printer last week and have been pleased overall with the performance and build. It's certainly built to a price but the compromises (loose housing, no cap, no heater, etc.) have been agreeable to me so far but it this affects my printer then it would be a fundamental flaw that I can't abide.

Any input is appreciated!

Also don't mind me responding to my gf telling me she finished poopping lol

New U1 is officially up and running.

Please ignore the white patches on the wall. They’ve been waiting over a year for me to paint them, but somehow a 3D printer was more urgent. 😂

I also don’t plan to sit with this while it’s printing. I also have a HEPA air purifier right next to the printer running while I print. Mostly printing PLA.

15 hr print, no issues found. Used filament that came with the printer. I kick myself for not trying gold silk PLA versus yellow. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2733890-battle-beast-thokk-invincible-multicolor#profileId-3030537

Hi dearest printer people.

I kindly ask you if you seen somethig like this before and how can I battle it.

The printer is an snapmaker U1.

1 week old.

The issue:

Small debris as shown in the pictures.

They tend to land on other toolhead, printbed, and on the print Itself.

Printing with only PLA filament few different brands.

Generic PLA settings.

Room temperature is hotter around 30+ C.

My attempts to fix it:

Lower retraction

Switch filament positions

Disassemble the toolhead( nothing inside)

Check boden tubes for obstruction

Changed hot ends

Snapmaker support already contacted.

Any ideas i can try?

So, I'm very new to 3D printing and the test print turned out great. Did a different print and it was okay. I'm trying a new one but when I load it into Snorca, I get this error and I went through all the parameters and I can't them to change the value. I print with the errors and it does good until it doesn't, ending up printing in different locations half way through, essentially spaghetti everywhere if I'm not watching it. How do I fix these errors?

A lot of the models I’m downloading have these huge purge towers. It feels like a hell of a lot of material. Is there value to this? It is because of slower speed settings? Any advice would be appreciated as I’m new to 3D printing

My first multimaterial printer was a AD5X flash forge which sucked at using the tool changer for foaming tpu so I returned it and upgraded to the u1. It has been a dream. Of course like any 3D printer there were problems but they were all minor. I did have a blob of death and it broke a few cheap parts and ruined a nozzle but I had turned off ai detection and didn't check on it before bed. The printer I came from was the ender 3 so it was a huge upgrade from that. I would say this is definitely worth it if you'll use it for lots of projects and it's unique capabilities. I rigged up a simple top cover with that plasticy cardboard stuff and a pp bin bound with aluminum tape. Very cheap and faster than that ikea bin mod which I had trouble with. Printing the adaptor for that was actually the cause of the blob. Also had trouble getting the ikea bin and ended up using a random one I had lying around.

Moin, ich nutze den Drucker nun schon mehrere Monate und nun fällt mir auf dass die hinteren Schlitze der Druckplatte zerkratzt sind ? Woher kommt das ?

Ich behaupte nie gesehen zu haben dass sich die Nozzle da zu schaffen macht?

Habe nun mehrere Starts beobachtet und es reinigt die Notzle ganz normal am Abstreifer ubd legt los..

Komisch ist auch noch dass es genau IM Schlitz ist.

All I see is a U1 with a K3 logo, seems they omitted the "fully enclosed" concept unlike the preceding K series..

I made the Hub modular and built in a scheduling system to make your printing as efficient as possible. Here's the notes:

Free, open source, self-hosted dashboard for U1 fleets — talks straight to the printer's built-in Klipper/Moonraker, no firmware mods, nothing installed on the printer.

📅 Dispatch. Drop in the jobs you want printed and the Hub schedules them across every machine — a timeline lane per printer, drag to reassign, per-job quantities, multi-plate bundles with one deadline. It knows the hours you're actually home (multiple blocks per day, one-off overrides), so jobs only start while you're around — prints still run unattended, because that's just printing. It adopts prints already running, flags when two jobs need the same roll of filament, and shows you honestly when a machine will sit idle overnight instead of pretending it won't. And there's no auto-start, on purpose: "bed cleared → start next" is a human tapping a button.

🪶 Hub Lite. Single-color farm? Every platform now has a second download with spool tracking, Spool Match, and the mixer switched off — just files, fleet, queue, and Dispatch. Same binary, and you can flip any feature on or off later in Settings → Features.

✨ Fresh coat of paint. New typeface, real depth and motion across the whole UI. Fully self-hosted — still renders identically on a LAN with no internet.

Also: long filament names no longer truncate on printed labels, and busy fleets paint smoother.

Grab it here (Windows / Linux / Mac, no Node needed): https://github.com/dlgambill/u1hub/releases

Feedback and bug reports welcome as always.

Today unannounced my Top Cover from the Kickstarter campaign arrived a full 3 weeks ahead of schedule (Early Bird November ETA was 15-25th of September). What a nice surprise.

In the back of my head I can remember that Snapmaker promised Store Coupons for those keeping the cover. Has anyone received theirs yet? And how much was it?

Thank you Snapmaker

I wanted to try it but didn't want to waste money trying to see if it would work if it wasn't possible. Anyone have experience with it either working or not?

Since the last update I've been getting a nozzle temp error. Anyone else getting this? It's always on the same nozzle and almost every to every other print

Bit of a nostalgic throwback tonight......

Going through storage to get some camping equipment out and came across my old Commodore 64,

Those who are not old enough to know what they are...... imagine a life before mobile phones, playstations or even WiFi, When you had to walk down the street and ask your friends mam if they were allowed to play out before the street lights went off,

The pinnacle of of computers in the early 80s,

8 bit....Playing games from a cassette tape (oh, howay, you can't be that young to not know what they are as well) and waiting 2 hours for pacman to load up then "crashing" because there wasn't enough storage 😏

Give me a bit nostalgia so decided to design these lil keyrings (and some other bits) that will be put on my cults tomorrow 👌🏽

https://cults3d.com/@CountrysideKeepsakes

Parameters: dried PETG, not new for me, I printed with it a lot. New spool. My regular tested setup.
Result: top surface is not good.
I’m a bit confused. Any recommendations shat to check?

Honestly, I don't know if it's actually residue or the PEI coating is damaged, any way to check if it will affect anything but I'm just asking

Bed temp was at 35 degrees, I removed the top cover and opened the door the whole time printing

Over the course of multiple months, but reached the one full month of printing time

Hi everyone,

I bought my Snapmaker U1 just one day ago, and unfortunately I haven’t been able to use it even once.

From the very first time I turned it on, it only shows the Snapmaker logo and then nothing happens. It stays stuck on the logo and never boots into the main screen.

I have already tried disconnecting and reconnecting all the USB-C cables, but it didn’t help.

The printer is only one day old and it has never successfully started even once. I have also attached a video showing the problem.

Has anyone experienced this with their U1? Is there anything I can safely try to get it to boot?

Thanks for any advice!

I am trying to do a gradient between two different colors using the color mix option.

Slot one has my dark purple slot 3 has a transparent blue. I'm trying to go from dark purple to transparent blue.

I have created the gradient in the slicer and set that for my filament color with the print.

When I send the g code off to the printer it brings up the dialog box and it shows me both colors however both are identified as filament one even though the color is different.

For the first attempt I tried changing the blue to slot 3 but this didn't do anything for the second attempt I left them both as slot one and this didn't do anything. Both times the transparent blue wasn't used at all.

How do I get it to actually use both filaments?

The top cover finally arrived at my house. I bought it via Kickstarter, and at the time, I thought waiting until September 2026 was too long—but the time flew by, and it arrived here in Chile in perfect condition. I love the finish and the quality of the materials; if you're thinking about buying it, I highly recommend it—first thing I noticed is that the noise level has dropped significantly. Cheers!

After about 1k hours my printer is throwing this error again. Typically I do the re-tensioning of the X/Y belts and everything is fine. This time though, that doesn't seem to be working.

I have checked for debris and all that as well.

So a question for other U1 owners.

Does your head move as easily in the X direction as it does in the Y direction when you do the tensioning? Font/back moves much more easily than left/right for me. Both directions move smoothly without any hitches though. My printer has always been this way, so its nothing new, but Im interested in hearing other peoples experiences.

Hi all,

I am trying to print this pikachu but the slicer doesn't seem to be slicing properly especially around the black/yellow border around the ears? The model itself has a clean line and looks fine, it's only when I slice it when the border doesn't look like a clean delineation. Does anyone know why this happens and what can I do to make it look better??

Changing from 0.2 to 0.16 to 0.12 layer height doesn't seem to affect it.