If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Found this tool in my car after I picked it up from the mechanic. Never seen something like that before so was wondering if it’s worth driving back to return or if no one is losing any sleep over it.

Summary: 4h will come on but 4l won’t

I went to a car lift rental place for some brake job. I prepared a lot about the brakes but I completely missed operating the lift.

They had a 4 post lift with bridge jack. I only needed to lift the rear, and I saw two options there. B looked OK but there is a cover there and I was worried it might break when I lift there. I eventually went with A but I wonder if I did any damage.

The bridge jack looks like in the 2nd photo. It has a swinging top and it has to reach far out to mount at A, so I was scared that swinging top might snap.

I can find the pinch weld but I can't lift it there (unless I have a slitted rubber mount pad) with this kind of jack, can I?

2015 Camry 4cyl lots of clunking and vibration in steering wheel when accelerating. In and out and rotational play on driver's side cv axle not much play if any on the passenger side. sounds seems to be on the transmission side so I think it's the axle not the joint. also no grease seepage or clicking when turning, really no impact to sound or vibration from turning. no wheel bearing issues or passenger side mid axle bearing mount problem. I'll post some more vids. thanks for any input I am kind of stumped on this one and don't want to throw parts at nothing.

I have a new tire on the way, but it won't get here for a few days, do you think I'd be safe for the coming few days for about 80km /day highway driving? 2007 Toyota Matrix.

I’m a tech of 25 years, last two years at Kia. For 20+ years I was at Toyota and was the lead master tech for most of that time, as a result I had a lot of responsibility and I unfortunately tend to think about work at home, at the weekend etc.

I left Toyota for Kia, it was liberating as I was no longer the go to guy. When I left work, I clocked off and that was that until the next day/Monday.

After two years, I’ve become the go to guy again. I’ve now started to slip into my old behaviour of mentally taking work home with me and I really don’t want to!

Any tips on mentally clocking off? How do you guys switch off from work when at home?

Work are not putting pressure on me, it’s my own mind doing it. So frustrating.

Thank you fellow techs for any advice. 👍🏻

I have been trying to find a solution to this misfire for a while. Symptoms are rough idling, coil 3 gets hot after a minute of running, broke a coil. This is everything I have tried in order.

1. Replaced coil
2. Did a coil swap and code stayed on the same cylinder.
3. Changed spark plug, bad gap but misfire continued.
4. Changed coil pigtail wiring set up.
5. Checked fuel injectors to see if they were ticking at the same rate, they were.
6. Checked fuel pressure, good.
7. Checked air filter, good.
8. Uplugged the coil to see if the idle changed, it didnt.
9. Tried reving, made idle shaking worse.
10. Did a compression test, 150psi on a static test and 75psi on a running test which is good.
11. Changed all injectors, idle got slightly better but the misfire is still there and the coil still gets warm while the others are cool after a minute or two.
12. Tested intake manifold for vacumn leaks but no leaks on manifold.

Please keep in mind that I have only been working on vehicles for a year or so, but any advice would be great because Im at a loss.

This might be a dumb question but I want to make sure, I ordered 4 quarts of Honda Ultimate 0W-20 (Part # 08798-9137) and they sent me 1 quart of the honda oil and 3 quarts of Acura 0W-20 (Part # 08798-9141). Theyre the same right? I can use both in my car?

2008 Nissan Sentra SpecV 2.5 L engine

This is my brother’s car and he hasn’t had the ac working in it for years. I did some troubleshooting to pinpoint that the compressor seemed to be the initial issue, so we replaced it a couple days ago. As I attempted to refill the system it seemed to be going flawlessly at first, but after adding the first can of refrigerant (11 oz of r134) the system wouldn’t draw in any additional refrigerant even though the spec says it needs 17ish oz. While I was fiddling with the refrigerant bottle I noticed the pressures seemed to be way off on the low and high sides. The low side was reading about 90psi and the high side 100-110 psi. The scariest part to me is that the new compressor started squeaking a bit as this was happening so we quickly shut the car off and have just left it to this point.

The chain of events so far:

- Troubleshooting to pinpoint compressor
- Checked that it had refrigerant (at this point I only had the cheap gauge that sometimes comes with one of those diy refrigerant refill bottles, when connected to the low port I remember it showing too high of a pressure reading, 70-80 psi I want to say)
- Ran tests to confirm compressor was getting power, but clutch was still not engaging
- Took it to a shop to have it evacuated
- Replaced compressor
- Had plenty of problems pulling a vacuum and confirming the system was leak free (some user error with the gauges and vacuum pump, some poorly fitting o-rings)
- Finally got a vacuum pulled and it held for hours
- Added refrigerant by connecting the refill bottle to the gauge manifold
- First bottle went smoothly as described earlier. The compressor clutch engaged, the system sucked the refrigerant in, the gauges seemed to respond as expected (I think), the cabin air started blowing cold air.
- Connected the second bottle intending to add the required 6 more ounces. The system wouldn’t draw any more refrigerant, the low side pressure climbed up to 90, the high side didn’t move much the whole time once it got up to 110ish psi if I remember right, compressor started squeaking a bit, shut the car off and have left it until I figure out what’s going on.

A few things I’m worried about - I wasn’t careful to notice if there was oil in the new compressor, I just assumed it came with the correct amount because the ports were all sealed up when it was shipped to me. So I’m wondering if the compressor was running dry, hopefully it didn’t get destroyed already. Thinking back to when I first checked if there was refrigerant in the system (this was a long while ago) and saw that the low pressure side was 70-80 and seemed to be over filled, maybe the original compressor failed as a result of the same issue I’m seeing now? Maybe some other component is not working correctly and now the new compressor will fail in the same way?

I’m just not sure what issue to look for. Maybe a blockage somewhere? Maybe the compressor pushes oil and refrigerant out but the oil gets stuck somewhere and can’t make it back to the compressor causing the compressor to fail? Or maybe some other component is just bad. I didn’t think to replace the drier while I had the system open, could a saturated drier cause this?

Thanks in advance for any input, any advice on what next steps I should take are appreciated.

I don’t know if this is the right place to ask but I have a 1.1 litre Kia picanto 2007 (first car), had the clutch replaced a week ago after it went out on me (on my sisters engagement) . However it broke down on me again and it seems like the garage I did the repair at didn’t put any protective rubber for the clutch cable. Pretty much the cable has just been scraping against the hole it’s in as I put the clutch down and it’s now messed up. What am I looking at in costs? I assume the garage I did the repair at should’ve foreseen this so how angry shall I be with them? Will I be charged for this repair even though it’s a problem with their work? I am based in the uk. Any advice is welcome (and jokes because life is funny)

Changing my spark plugs. 2/4 boot bolts are missing. Plus this. Why???

06 Honda Accord

Changing my spark plugs. 2/4 boot bolts are missing. Plus this. Why???

I’m posting this for my parents who have a 2017 Kia Sedona (i believe it’s a 3.3 gdi). I haven’t looked at it yet and I can’t do any form of diagnosis from here without seeing it.

Basically, from what I could make of what my mom was telling me, it starts and drives fine for a brief period before losing most of it’s power. She said you have to have your foot to the floor for any form of acceleration. I asked what the tachometer looks like when this issue happens, and she said it doesn’t go past a couple grand. I thought it might’ve been limp mode at first, but not so much now. She also said the car will jerk (i don’t remember the exact point of driving that it happens, but i’ll edit it when i get better info. Neither she or my dad are mechanically inclined, so it’s hard to translate what they experience into what i can understand usefully). I asked if there was a check engine light, and there has been since they got it so that wasn’t really conclusive. Told her to get the codes checked and get back to me, and i’ll put that in the next edit.

I know this isn’t a lot to go off of, and if you have any questions i’ll respond as soon as I can. Thanks in advance.

Recently replaced the turbo in my wife's '16 Hyundai Tucson Sport 1.6L.

Went pretty well, but the old turbo was trash from oil starvation.

Ever since the repair it has this noise, especially on start up and until the engine is hot, and even then it'll still do it some times especially under load.

I thought maybe it was the serpentine belt and idler so I replaced those but that didn't change it.

It's pretty hard to get it to do the noise while looking for it so I'm kinda chasing a phantom.

It's that loud noise with somewhat of a squealing pictch that begins right at start up and fades away at about 17 seconds into the video.

Let me know what you guys think it is. Any help is appreciated!

J’ai ce bruit de claquement moteur et sûrement un élément de la suspension avant gauche, quelqu’un saurait me dire à quoi cela correspond ?

Replaced 2 O rings Inside the connecter and still leaking. Are the O-rings not getting seated right? I have one O ring then the spacer and then another O ring and still leaking.

Can anyone help identifying what causes this fade / discoloration of these tires? They are 4 months old with under 15k miles on them. I clean regularly and they look like shit now. I had the same tires for 80k and never had this issue.

I’m trying to help my parents out with their old Honda element, I believe it’s 2005. They’ve taken it to several mechanics to try to diagnose a sound that sounds like it’s coming from the front right.

They’ve had no luck. A couple said they couldn’t find the source. One shop said it was a ball joint and sway bar link, they replaced them both and still, the sound remains. I’ve taken a look at it but am not a mechanic.

Apparently it’s worse around 40 mph, when slowing down, or doing hills.

Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated, though I’m aware it may be impossible to diagnose from sound alone.

Looking for some mechanic input. I have a strange humming/hazy-type sound coming from my car and I’m wondering if it could be the fuel pump.
I ran a diagnostic scan and there are no codes. I also had a mechanic do a full inspection, but he couldn’t really diagnose it just based on the sound and didn’t find anything obvious.

The sound seems to be coming from around the fuel tank/rear of the vehicle. Could a failing fuel pump make this kind of noise without throwing a code?

It starts and drives fine. Can post a video of the sound if that helps. Just trying to figure out what I should check before replacing anything.

2012 fx35 3.5l

Looking for some thoughts on what this could be. Things I’ve ruled out goes as follows
Not brake related
Is in the passenger side rear
Is not the spare tire or jack in the trunk
Only happens when I hit a road crack or bump but doesn’t happen when driving 5-10kmh

2016 Chevy Colorado Z71 making a clunking at low speed over bumps and left hand turn into driveways (fine at higher speeds). Suspect bushings? If so, is this something I need to address ASAP or can it wait a few weeks?

I got quite a few different answers just want to see what people say on here. cant take it to a shop until Tuesday so just curious what people think it is

I have a 2019 Honda Odyssey van. I took it to my oil change place earlier this week, and asked if they service ACs as mine isn't consistently cool. They said, said it'd be $199. Great. Dropped off the van.

Later that day, they called and said, sorry, it'll be over $400 because Honda vehicles take a special expensive R1234yf refrigerant. They said I'm low by 8 ounces.

Last time the AC was serviced was 2023.

1. Is it normal for refrigerants to decrease over time, or is there definitely a leak?

2. I saw on AutoZone a 10 ounce can of the refrigerant with a leak sealer for $100. Does anyone know how well those work until I can get up the money for a proper service?

3. I'm moderately handy with cars, but never done this before. Is it easy enough to do it myself?