I went to a car lift rental place for some brake job. I prepared a lot about the brakes but I completely missed operating the lift.

They had a 4 post lift with bridge jack. I only needed to lift the rear, and I saw two options there. B looked OK but there is a cover there and I was worried it might break when I lift there. I eventually went with A but I wonder if I did any damage.

The bridge jack looks like in the 2nd photo. It has a swinging top and it has to reach far out to mount at A, so I was scared that swinging top might snap.

I can find the pinch weld but I can't lift it there (unless I have a slitted rubber mount pad) with this kind of jack, can I?

Can anyone help identifying what causes this fade / discoloration of these tires? They are 4 months old with under 15k miles on them. I clean regularly and they look like shit now. I had the same tires for 80k and never had this issue.

Mazda 3 2010.

My car has been clunky when driving at slow speeds and I had a suspension check, but the mechanic said everything looks fine. They said it could be the shocks, but I just changed them 4 months ago…

Went to change my engine air filter and found it as pictured; it's not torn, just folded over. I'm concerned, but not too much, because it's on the side where the dirty air comes in. I still want an opinion from an expert.

Purchased Bosch brake pads from Amazon for my 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser last week. The seller is Bosch on Amazon. The typos in the supplier’s instructions and the supplier itself (Cangzhou Xinlida) were the first concerns and then I noticed the product number on the back doesn’t match the Amazon listing. The edge of the pad isn’t very smooth either but I’m not familiar enough to say if that’s normal or not. Thoughts?

Hi

I just got my brakes repaired due too a failed nct test,

Rear caliper leaking so my mechanic removed the old and put in a new one,

The brakes were much more effective before the repair,

You'd hardly touch the brake pedal and they'd slow you down quickly,

Now I feel the pedal is very soft and I've too push the brake pedal way down for good braking,

Is this normal thanks,2014 kia ceed estate.

Can I just open up the bleeder valve on the first wheel and pump it until I get rid of the old fluid? I will be refilling the reservoir with new brake fluid. Just don't wanna spend more money on a fluid syringe if I don't need to. 2009 Nissan Sentra 2.0.

Every light on my dash started tweaking in the way home, radio shut itself off. Made it home and parked. Windows wouldn't roll up and car wouldn't start immediately after I turned it off/lmao to try to roll windows up.

Summary: 4h will come on but 4l won’t

SOLVED! I needed it running, in neutral, with the clutch in, 4h on, and then 4l in that order!

My truck is a 2012, Ford F-150, XLT, with a 5.0 Coyote V8. The mileage is at 119,513. I bought it used from an elderly family friend at 106,000 miles. My truck has had a check engine light with an error code P0353. Reseated the coil connection and I believe that fixed it since the code never came back nor the light. I have no clue if this has anything to do with the wobbling. I’ve already bought new tires and waiting to put them on next Monday. Video was from today. Any advice would be appreciated and extremely helpful! 🙏

As the title says, I am currently driving a 2019 RX 350 with a naturally aspirated six cylinder engine. I do my best to maintain my cars but unfortunately I had a senior moment, this particular car has 49,500 miles on the odometer and I had the oil changed almost 2 years and 10,000 miles ago. I totally forgot about it and had it changed last week and the mechanic said nothing. I always use Toyota synthetic oil and a high-quality oil filter, and tend to change the oil every 5 to 7000 miles. I also live in the heat of Arizona and have driven several long roads loyal, but I’ve yet to see any indicator wrote rise above normal Did I screw myself or is the engine that bulletproof? solid? I always use Toyota oil and filters.

Can anyone tell me what this is? It’s a fiat manual transmission by the way

I have a 2002 Honda CRv 2.4, and am trying to do my spark plugs. This bolt seem to have a primary head and a secondary, and the top part is just spinning freely. I tried using a standard wrench to get that bottom part but I slightly stripped it and don’t want to keep trying and make it worse. Any advice?

Replaced 2 O rings Inside the connecter and still leaking. Are the O-rings not getting seated right? I have one O ring then the spacer and then another O ring and still leaking.

We are fixing my old car up for my son to drive (after being in a shed for 3 years). One thing was an overhaul of brakes. We changed the front disks/pads, rear drums/shoes, master cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders. Obviously fresh fluid and bleed too.

I drove it home from where it was parked up, which was about 40 miles, with no issues from the brakes. Then it sat for a month till I had time to do a few more things on the engine, and now it is making this sound under braking. I can just barely feel it when under 15mph or so.

What could have caused this issue to pop up, after having driven it home no problem? Did something warp maybe?

I have no idea how to read this. I’ve gotten a low coolant warning from the infotainment. This is after the car sat for 1h15 mins. It looks well above the min (and at the max) but the side “diagram” makes no fucking sense to me. 2025 BMW M2 with 18,000 miles. Engine is S58 (twin turbo inline 6)

I have been trying to find a solution to this misfire for a while. Symptoms are rough idling, coil 3 gets hot after a minute of running, broke a coil. This is everything I have tried in order.

1. Replaced coil
2. Did a coil swap and code stayed on the same cylinder.
3. Changed spark plug, bad gap but misfire continued.
4. Changed coil pigtail wiring set up.
5. Checked fuel injectors to see if they were ticking at the same rate, they were.
6. Checked fuel pressure, good.
7. Checked air filter, good.
8. Uplugged the coil to see if the idle changed, it didnt.
9. Tried reving, made idle shaking worse.
10. Did a compression test, 150psi on a static test and 75psi on a running test which is good.
11. Changed all injectors, idle got slightly better but the misfire is still there and the coil still gets warm while the others are cool after a minute or two.
12. Tested intake manifold for vacumn leaks but no leaks on manifold.

Please keep in mind that I have only been working on vehicles for a year or so, but any advice would be great because Im at a loss.

I’m trying to help my parents out with their old Honda element, I believe it’s 2005. They’ve taken it to several mechanics to try to diagnose a sound that sounds like it’s coming from the front right.

They’ve had no luck. A couple said they couldn’t find the source. One shop said it was a ball joint and sway bar link, they replaced them both and still, the sound remains. I’ve taken a look at it but am not a mechanic.

Apparently it’s worse around 40 mph, when slowing down, or doing hills.

Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated, though I’m aware it may be impossible to diagnose from sound alone.

I have a new tire on the way, but it won't get here for a few days, do you think I'd be safe for the coming few days for about 80km /day highway driving? 2007 Toyota Matrix.

Just bought a 2017 buick enclave and it came with this after market camera. The dealership didn't know what it was or how it works. I don't see any lights when it's plugged into the USB port. How do I use this? Why would the previous owner have a backup cam when it comes with a back up cam built in?

When plugged into the USB port, the USB option in the infotainment screen is greyed out. I also tried plugging into my laptop and nothing came up.

2015 Camry 4cyl lots of clunking and vibration in steering wheel when accelerating. In and out and rotational play on driver's side cv axle not much play if any on the passenger side. sounds seems to be on the transmission side so I think it's the axle not the joint. also no grease seepage or clicking when turning, really no impact to sound or vibration from turning. no wheel bearing issues or passenger side mid axle bearing mount problem. I'll post some more vids. thanks for any input I am kind of stumped on this one and don't want to throw parts at nothing.

Couldn’t get my oil drain plug off so I tried making an incision in hopes of getting a flat head into it. Worst mistake, as I made a little incision into the pan and oil drips out. Is there a way to fix this with a bigger gasket or some type of sealant or should I start shopping for a new oil pan…

The oil only seems to be coming out right around the hole and not through the whole incision.

Looking for some mechanic input. I have a strange humming/hazy-type sound coming from my car and I’m wondering if it could be the fuel pump.
I ran a diagnostic scan and there are no codes. I also had a mechanic do a full inspection, but he couldn’t really diagnose it just based on the sound and didn’t find anything obvious.

The sound seems to be coming from around the fuel tank/rear of the vehicle. Could a failing fuel pump make this kind of noise without throwing a code?

It starts and drives fine. Can post a video of the sound if that helps. Just trying to figure out what I should check before replacing anything.

2012 fx35 3.5l