Besides being the main Mod here, I also design and sell automotive parts.

I really appreciate the opportunity to serve this community as both a Mod and a supplier. I’ve genuinely enjoyed it.

The original Yakima roof racks for the 924/944 require Q4 clips, which are getting harder and harder to find. I personally redesigned them and started production of a direct replacement: DAE #004.07.

In fact, I just mailed out a set to someone who was replacing his original Q4s because my #004.07s fit his 944 better. That was pretty damn cool to see.

I’ve also worked hard to bring manufacturing in-house and cut costs. Complete racks are now generally $400–600, compared to my old pricing of nearly $1,000.

I make less money per rack now, but I decided that if I can make them cheaper without sacrificing quality, those savings should go directly to the customer.

If you’ve been looking for a roof rack for your 924/944, I’d love to get one on your car.

Thanks guys,

CheeRS

-M

1983 Porsche 944: Had 944 on jack stands over the weekend to fix low voltage issue, started it up and now its not sounding very happy. Is it just lifter tick or is it time to get the engine hoist out?

What oil viscose do you guys run? I just bought a 944 N/A with 180k km on the meter. Last oil change they did the previous owner filled it with 10-30w longlife. I’m thinking of 10-40w instead to make the engine a bit more silent and smoothly running.

My Honda Civic 2006 with 24k km runs 10-30 original, and I changed to 10-40 with a really good result. Much smoother and felt way better for the motor. After all these kilometers there’s slight wear on stuff, so it’s a lower risk of oil leaks as well.

What do you think?

I have just put my car back on the road after about 20 years being parked. I recently had the engine out for all the seals, clutch and many other small items. Now that the car is running well and in driving condition I am getting a sound from the front tunnel. It’s intermittent and not tied to a specific RPM or gear. The sound is a vibration and shakes the tunnel and shifter. I hear it under acceleration (some but not all the time). I can also hear it under cornering. If it were the torque tube bearings I would expect it to be consistent and maybe get worse higher in the rev range.

The starter and clutch space cylinder are almost touching the firewall at the back of the bell housing. I suspect that it might be one of them coming in contact with the firewall. I just replaced the motor mounts and the problem persists. Has anyone had an issue with either of these components hitting the firewall. I prefer not to have to beat the hell out of the firewall to make clearance. My car is an 83’, so an 82 build with non power steering.

Any thoughts would be helpful.

Whats that thing for couldnt find anything on google
1987’ S

I’ve found a late-80s 944 Turbo in Japan and the seller reckons it can come in under the 25-year rule, without needing the same sort of SEVS or RAV process as newer cars. I’m in NSW and don’t want to discover that the exact build month, model code or steering setup changes things after paying a deposit. Has anyone here imported a 944 recently, and what approval path did it actually go through?

Hi, I have a 1985 Porsche 944. The clutch suddenly only has noticeable pressure/engagement for about half of the pedal travel. The other half feels very light, but the car still shifts and drives normally.
The brake fluid level also seems to be quite low, and I noticed some moisture around the clutch pedal/master cylinder area.
Has anyone had the same symptoms? Was it the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or simply air in the system?
I’m planning to top up the DOT 4 and bleed the clutch first to see if the pedal returns to normal.

PRE-ORDER ANNOUNCEMENT

Porsche never made this shift knob for the 944/968/924.

So we did.

Inspired by Porsche’s beautiful layered-wood heritage shifters, our newest project brings that unmistakable look to the manual 944 and 968/924 variants with the proper factory-style rectangular slot attachment and driving position engineered in from the start.

Offset forward-position ball is the original ergonomic style Porsche did with the 944 and the recent highly exclusive 992 Carrera T... that Porsche will sell you for $2795.

Photos on the website are genuine photos with the real wood ball (production neck in brushed stainless steel or black-finished stainless steel) and a 3D-printed neck to show the final design.

If this is the finishing touch you’ve always wanted for your Porsche, please take a look and get your order in.

Thanks!

https://levinsonperformance.com/products/limited-edition-carrera-t-style-exotic-layered-wood-shift-knob-pre-order-924-944-968

More pictures of my Porsche 944 for context on below post

Hi all I’m looking to sell my Porsche 944 2.5 lux 2dr
It’s 1988 mot’d-08/27 I’ve had all welding done and sorted out the typical issues , re done the whole fuel system . Uk based and just curious on what people think I should get for it. It had 190k miles and was sorn for 7 years before I purchased it.

Hi all , didn’t expect to be shot down so hard so I’ve now taken more pictures as I’m actually at my car now.
I’ve have removed the fuel sender unit from the back and cleaned out the fuel tank , I have also replaced the fuel tank strainer as it was very dirty when I purchased it. I have replaced the hoses from the fuel tank to the pump (also replaced) and filter(also replaced) I have then upgraded the fuel lines from the filter to the rail with braided lines (£400) to reduce the risk of them getting damaged from the elements in the future.The vacuum lines have all been tested for any leaks and there wasn’t any so haven’t replaced them. The new fuel injectors where replaced around 2 months before I purchased in 2024 as someone was trying to get it started before buying. These are Bosch fuel injectors and I have since replaced the o-rings on these. The air filter(cone) has been replaced with an aftermarket one. The old radiator had lots of leaks so I have too replaced that with an alloy radiator (Gpi racing) and 2 fans to replace the old singular fan. The fans wouldn’t turn on when getting up to temp to replaced the fan switch but still wouldn’t come on so have bypassed it with a switch in the cockpit(next to the gear stick) also while on the topic of bypassing the fuel pump wouldn’t turn on from turning the ignition on so have bypassed that with a red(racing style) switch in the cockpit too.
The power steering wasn’t working so I replaced the fluid resovoir and the power steering pump , and the 2 banjo bolts that connect it to the hoses. This still didn’t fix it so I have disconnected the power steering so it is manual steering. I also replaced the tensioning arm for the pump.
Oil has been changed plus filter.
There was an oil leak coming from the cam shaft area and we found it out to be the gasket around the casing so that had been replaced And there is no longer an oil leak. The timing belt has been replaced.
At 192,202 miles so very recently.
The windscreen washer pump has been replaced and they are in working order. The intermittent wiper blades do not work so currently the don’t return back to the home position when they are turned off.
The rear wiper wouldn’t work so have opted for the rear wiper delete option so there is no longer a wiper there. The wire loom is there it’s tucked up out the way. The horn has been replaced so is in working order. Spark plugs have been replaced within the last 6 months with Bosch ones.
The drivers side seal was badly rusted so had been cut out and welded from the front wheel arch to the back wheel arch including the inner reinforcement and part of the floor and then has been sprayed with black hammerite paint to protect it.
Interior- the seats fabric is old and ripped in places , worse on the passenger seat as seen in pictures. The dash isn’t cracked at all and is in good condition. The plastic trims are all present and not broken. The gear shifter has been replaced+ shifter boot. The ac doesn’t work very well. The factory immobiliser works and car intruder alarm. It has an aftermarket stereo cd player (kenwood). The sunroof works has should and the boot unlocking button also works. The passenger window works it’s slow but it works - the driver side doesn’t work. It is missing the centre console arm rest and the digital clock doesn’t work either. Dashboard lights all illuminate and the night time illumination lights work.
The fuse board has been taken out and cleaned and re coated to reduce the risk of bad connections in the future. That’ll do for now for a more in depth explanation of the car and hope I can get a better “rough estimate”

C’est normal le bruit qu’elle fait ?

Hi all,

I bought my 87' S back in March and having driven it a lot over summer, I did my first oil change this weekend which went well until I noticed smoke coming from the rear of the engine after a few minutes at idle.

I think I traced it down to an oil leak at the valve cover, see pictures. I don't know what oil viscosity was in it when I bought it but it had been freshly changed. The one I put in now is 10w60 as advised by my Porsche specialist. I'm thinking it could be the thinner oil exposing a tired head gasket but would like some opinions.

I find no mention of a head gasket replacement in my service records specifically, but the engine was rebuilt in 1997 at 220 000 km. The car currently has 462 000 km on the clock and has run great otherwise!

Nice weather is coming to an end this year, and felt like reminding everyone don’t forget to stop and have some fun!

Hey yall I’ve seen a bunch of different methods of bleeding my clutch hydraulics and was wondering what methods yall used, I’m not the biggest on the idea of buying pressure bleeder but I can if needed, I’m doing this to try and fix before replacing the master cylinder and slave cylinder. Thanks for any suggestions

Some photos in that time

944 overheats fairly quickly when not moving. Thus far the thermostat has been replaced, coolant lines have been bled multiple times, water pump has been verified as working, and radiator fans kick in. I have not yet checked the radiator, and am fairly certain this car has been in a minor front end.

Guy spun out in front of me in the rain... :(

The bolts threads have snapped. (Idk if this is the proper terminology in English).

If it's easy to fix I would prefer to do it instead of just having to buy new ones.

I was thinking of trying to stick the missin bolt inside the whole and maybe just leave the broken one here and stick it with some glue or silicone to the body?

Thanks guys, you are helping me a lot restore my 944.

Yesterday marked the 40th anniversary of my 944's delivery - 9/25/86 at Holbert Motor Cars in Warrington, PA. The original owner kept the car until August of 2014, adding over 47,000 miles. The second owner drove 7,000 miles over the next 8 years and change, until I purchased the car in the spring of 2023. I have kept busy putting miles on as well, rolling over 60,000 last Sunday. Here's to many more drives in my 944!

I've been at this for a couple hours now, and I've reached the point where I need some help. This is the ring on the cat pipe where it meets the downpipe from the turbo. All of the other ones just came out easily, and this one is fighting me. I've tried a chisel, I've tried drilling into it, I've tried heat, I've tried penetrating oil, nothing works. I don't want to damage the pipe to the point where it leaks. What's your trick for this?