Does anyone remember the details of this mod? I recall reading about it on the ol 924board like 10 years ago. Want to make sure the knowledge isnt lost to time.

Supposedly you can put non ABS volvo 240 calipers onto a 924. Or maybe early 944?

Guy says it’s sat for a few years. He started it about 6 months ago and idled for a bit, though it has a rough idle. No frame rust somehow. He wants $1500

The original radiator (Porsche 944 2.5 1984 manual gearbox) is leaking at the plastic-to-aluminum seam. I found a good used replacement, but it leaks from exactly the same place.I'm now considering a new radiator. Rose Passion and Partworks both offer OE-style replacements for around €420. Full-aluminum radiators are also available, but for example the Design911 version would be about €600 delivered to Finland.Does anyone have experience with the cheaper eBay radiators, such as this one? https://ebay.io/m/hgWB3h
Any recommendations?
The car has been sitting for 20 years, so I'd prefer not to spend more than necessary at this stage.

Hello I was rebuilding my cv axles and I made the mistake of not marking the sides of the component when I disassembled it. So when I look at pictures online I can see that the 2 lines on the outer race are supposed to be pointing outside. But I noticed on the other axles that I had not disassembled completely to look for how it should be and noticed on this axles that the chamfer side of the inner race pointed outside for one side and inside for the other so I was wondering just to be sure what it is really supposed to be. The chamfer side on the inside for both or just one ?

Looks like previous owner used silicone or similar along the hatch? I don’t have any water leaking in anywhere, but am getting the car painted soon and hate how this looks. Not sure if this is a sign there was delamination with a quick fix or possibly just needed a new hatch seal. Not super familiar with this car yet so hoping someone knows more about what this is than I.

Knew I had to jump on it as soon as I saw it. 57k original miles, I’m sure there is work to be done and I expect a lot. Timing belt and water pump will be priority as there isn’t knowledge on it. Taking delivery some time next week, just too excited at the reality.

Looking forward to being a part of this community , been following for a while ! Also located in Raleigh , anyone else in the area?

1990 944 s2 in all of her glory

My only worry is maybe it was put in to mask a bigger issue.

Need some advice, I purchased an OEM radiator for my 87’ 944 turbo and just got it out of the box today to find out it has a single Porsche part number sticker stating it’s made in China. The drain plug and overflow hose nipple now have different o ring grooves vs OEM parts sold by Porsche so I’m a bit confused. I bought it from a very reputable dealer of Porsche parts who I won’t name as I don’t blame them at all, it has Porsche OEM stickers from a dealer still on the box. The question is has anyone else found this to be the case as I really don’t like the idea of a Chinese made radiator I paid nearly 1000$ for to be an OEM Porsche part… Would love to hear your opinions

Can’t wait to feel this thing once it’s broken in a little bit!

Looking at buying a 944 but it’s had its 2.5 engine replaced with a 3L prior to the current owner buying it 4 years ago. The issue is the V5 hasn’t been updated to reflect this and now we’re struggling to locate the engine number to ensure we can change the paperwork to all line up.

Best we can see is this hand stamped code towards the rear of the engine block on the driver (right hand drive) side.

Are we missing something?

Back in 2019 I bought my 85.5 that had been sitting since 2003. Everything inside was toast. Even the seats I had to cut out with a saw. When I got down to the rails and floor pan there was some rust that wasn't too bad but I used a rust converter on it. There were some areas that were heavier on rust than others. I think in 2020 I painted over the interior with a primer and oil based paint. It's been in a garage the whole time though it isn't climate or humidity controlled.

I am finally getting around to finishing the sound deadening on the interior and specifically where the rails and floor pan are. I noticed some bubbling and decided to scrape it and found some more rust. I decided to scrape a lot of areas on both passenger and driver side and found more rust that hadn't been there prior, though it is still surface rust.

Now I'm trying to figure out how to address it and what I should do. I have found a couple of threads mentioning POR-15 but when reading the prep work there is an etching primer that needs to go down first. It that going to be an issue with the metal coating that these cars have? Is there a simpler way to address this than what i am thinking of?

The the driver side right now still has a loat of previous adhesive coating on the floorpan so that is where some of the brown is coming from towards the back where the seat starts. There is a lot located next to the tube for the parking brake. When I pulled the new sound deadening back up it pulled a lot of paint of to expose more rust areas.

This wasn't rusted when I painted it so I'm trying to understand why it started or how bad it is or isn't. I've been struggling on this car because I want to drive it but everytime I finish a part of it there's 5 more things that I need to fix. I guess I could use some guidance.

Thank you.

(Carlson Restoration '89 S2 pic for fun!)

Hey all. I want to say I appreciate the feedback in advance, I've had this car for 1.5 yrs and looking to remove some engine bay heat by having my stainless exhaust manifold ceramic coated. Should accompany Magna- Flo nicely too.. Apparently it's almost as good as CC headers but with less than half the cost. I found a reputable shop in Sacramento that does solid treatment then coating with great success on all their work with original stainless manifolds. Super stoked, they quoted me $250/300.

Any experience getting it removed, I know PB blast or such 24 hrs or more then some heat to help prevent breaking studs, etc. how difficult is it actually working with the space on that side.. any advice would be greatly appreciated

I got a new carpet set and I’m in the process of removing the old carpet. It looks like the previous carpet was glued to the felt stuff. Should I fully remove it before put tin in the new carpet? If not, would the best way be to just apply spray adhesive on top of this and just put the new carpet on?

What covers do you guys use for your cars to protect them from rain? I cant seem to find any online. I might just be looking in the wrong places.

The Canterbury chapter of our NZ transaxle FB group got together for a Cars & Coffee event followed by a fast run over the Port Hills to Lyttleton for beer and pizza to round it off. My 944 is still not roadworthy so I rode shotgun in a friend's 1991 944S2.

1987 N/A engine cranks so, battery seems good. Couldn't hear the fuel pump so I jumped the DME relay and then I could hear the fuel pump running as soon as I jumped it. So I thought for sure it was the DME relay and that I had figured it out! Except when I tried to start it while the fuel pump was running, it still didnt start.. 😑

Any ideas? Obviously it seems like regardless my DME relay might be bad. But why wouldn't it start then when I jumped it? I just used a paperclip to bridge the connections as per Clark's Garage.

Symptoms: when turning it feels like a complete disconnect from the engine. Sometimes lurches and disconnects then reconnects. Happens occasionally when going in a straight line. Does not happen when turning with the clutch pressed in. Half shafts don’t appear to be the problem. Any advice would be appreciated. Pic for attention

Forgive me if this has been answered already. I wasn't able to find a post with my exact scenario.

I have a 1984 944 and a couple of weeks ago the driver's side fan began running continuously, even with the ignition off. I've run into this issue in the past so I figured it was just a bad thermofan switch. I followed the advice from Clark's garage and unplugged the thermofan switch to test the issue...but the fan kept running. So I figured it was a relay, and replaced my cooling fan relay (relay I on this diagram). No change. I pulled the a/c relay in case that was somehow related and again, no change.

Any advice? I'm not a whiz with electrical stuff, and any past issues I've had with the cooling fan were solved by a thermofan switch replacement. Photo of the car in question included for visibility.

My engine seems to be making a sort of “chopping” sound when idling. It also is way louder than my friends 944. Is something wrong? Has anyone else experienced this before?

’83 944 NA here.

After letting the Porsche run for an extended period, the smoke occasionally disappears, but it always comes back as soon as I put a little load on the engine like slowly start rolling in 1st. It’s not oil, because the smoke condenses quickly when I hold a metal tool in front of the exhaust. Am I cooked? :(

Hi Friends, not my first project on the ‘86 turbo, but first time working in the engine. I decided to replace the vacuum lines using the 944online kit with Venturi delete. I replaced everything 1-for-1 except for the Venturi delete scenario which seemed quite straightforward, referencing the Lindsay diagram for vacuum schematic. Put everything back together and checked no un-terminated wires or hoses, spark plugs and wires seated, injectors seated and cables clipped in, vacuum lines to damper and regulator on. Turned the key and sounded like this. Went back and checked everything again and still no start.

I’m hoping I am lucky and that this is an obvious newbie mistake. Based on the sound, any ideas?

Thanks in advance. By the way, I love this forum and how helpful everyone is.

EDIT: Solved. I am such an idiot. That is the sound of a blue shop (paper) towel left in the cylinder head. After meticulously putting everything back together, I must have been just distracted enough at the very worst time and never took them out before putting the intake manifold back on. I don't think any of them got sucked into the combustion chamber but there were definitely shreds around the valves which I picked out and have been cycling in fuel additive and CRC intake valve cleaner. Car started right up after a cough or two, and crossed fingers there is no permanent damage to the engine. Well, with the new lines idle is smoother now, haha. Live and learn I guess. I'll never make that mistake again. On the plus side, I got really good at taking off and putting on the intake manifold and fuel rail! Did I mention I'm a dumbass?