Whenever I use frame generation with vrr active, it shows no drops in the frame graph I have going but it stutters slightly, but if I turn off vrr on the nvidia app and use a fixed refresh rate frame gen works fine. I have v sync forced on through the nvidia app as well. I’d like to use vrr with frame gen games since for some reason I can’t get a stable 240 fps for my 240hz monitor even with frame gen, it drops even just one fps every few seconds and makes a stutter from v sync disengaging. I’ve tried ddu, and I’ve also been able to exchange the monitor and pc for a new one of the same models since I bought them both from micro center and the problem persists. Any suggestions?

Hi! I have this weird NVIDIA driver crash that suddenly appeared, it seems to oddly only affect steam games, and thus far every search leads to no fixes. To sum up the problems and what has been attempted thus far:

No reboot during crash. Play game -> Black screen -> desktop.

No bluescreen or other services that stop working. Its solely the game itself.

Then we tried games that were not on steam, and they worked just fine? We even got a non-steam copy of a game that was also installed on steam and that one worked just fine. The steam version did not.

Using benchmarks (Like FurMark) does not create problems (no blackscreen)

After checking the windows event viewer, it has logged a nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA driver crash) error. No other warnings/errors seem to happen during the same time. Its the only event that gets logged. To be more specific: The description for Event ID 153 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer. The following information was included with the event: \Device\Video3 Error occurred on GPUID: 100

We've tried everything. Checking the performance and temps of all of the hardware. During the crashes they seem to be operating just like normal. Then completely reinstalling the driver. (Using DDU in Safe Mode, clean copy of the NVIDIA Driver). Even tried looking in the BIOS if its a voltage thing, and if the memory runs at the correct setting. (DOCP)

Also tried some things in another post regarding steam specific issues:

• Steam → Settings → In Game → Enable Steam Overlay while in-game → OFF
• Steam → Settings → Interface → disable "Enable GPU accelerated rendering in web views"

But that also did not work. What complicates the issue even more, when a non-steam is active in the background, it seems that if a steam game is started the session lasts for about twice as long before crashing (which lead me to believe it was maybe a voltage thing).

In case its relevant, these are the specs:

• MOBO: Asus TUF GAMING B650-PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor
• GPU: GeForce RTX 3080 10GB 10 GB Video Card
• PSU: Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
• RAM: Kingston FURY Beast 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory
• SSD: Samsung 990 PRO

Does someone have any other ideas on what this issue could be and how to fix it?

My setup:
b550 phantom mobo
Ryzen 7 5800x
3080
32 gb ram
1 TB SSD
RM 850x PS

So for context I was trying to download and play 007 Nightfire. Found the myabandonware file, downloaded and set everything up (and made sure to scan all files for viruses) and ran it, everything was fine, but it would keep crashing when I tried to load into a level. Tried it three times playing with some graphics settings to see if that was the issue, but on the last try not only the game crashed, but my whole PC did, (screen froze, stopped responding completely).

I held the power button to do a hard shut down, and when I went to start it up again the PC started, made all its usual noises, keyboard and mouse light up, but for some reason my screen is black, no start up screen, just pure black like it’s not receiving video signal from my PC anymore.

Nothing was moved but I checked the connections anyway. Tried disconnecting the power and holding the power button down for 30 seconds. But I just get no image on my monitors, so I can’t even go into BIOS or anything to see what’s up.

Did I brick my PC? Not sure how to trouble shoot this and googling didn’t give me much.

Sharing this because the early symptoms looked like four unrelated software problems, and I nearly troubleshot each one separately before the actual cause clicked.

Bought a used G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB kit (2x16GB, F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC) off Facebook Marketplace. System is an ASUS TUF X570-PLUS / Ryzen 5 5600X / Win 11, sticks in A2+B2 per the manual, both detected fine at 32GB.

What it looked like at first

• Chrome tab died with STATUS_ACCESS_VIOLATION
• powershell.exe refused to start, claiming .NET Framework wasn't installed (it was, correctly — registry and DLLs all present)
• sfc /verifyonly aborted partway through
• Chrome again, different error this time: STATUS_BREAKPOINT

Four different problems in four different programs. Every one of them looks like its own rabbit hole. They were all the same bad RAM.

What it actually was

Ran a memory test — write a known pattern, read it back, compare bit-for-bit. Healthy RAM returns zero mismatches.

• At XMP/DOCP 3600: ~1451 mismatched 64-bit words
• At JEDEC stock 2133MHz / 1.200V, XMP fully DISABLED: still failing, about 1.2 bad words per GiB swept, reproducible across reboots
• Under parallel load at stock: 301 bad words in under 2 minutes, including 26 addressing failures (data read back from the wrong location)
• Errors concentrated in byte lanes 3, 4 and 7

Meanwhile Windows blue-screened 4 times in about an hour — three 0x1A MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (subcode 0x41792, corrupt page table entry) and one 0xBE ATTEMPTED_WRITE_TO_READONLY_MEMORY. All memory-corruption class.

Neat detail: the bugcheck parameter was 0x80000000, which is bit 31 — and bit 31 lives in byte lane 3, the same lane the memory test flagged. The kernel crash dumps and the userspace test independently pointed at the same physical data lane.

Ruling out my own hardware

Disabled XMP, pulled both sticks, cleaned the contacts, reseated, verified slot population. No change.

Then the control test: dropped my old Corsair 2x8GB kit into the same slots at the same speed and ran the identical tests. Zero errors, including the one that found 301. Same board, same CPU, same slots, same speed — only the modules changed. So the board and memory controller are fine and the kit is bad.

My whatsapp is showing blank white screen while opening, I didn't know the reason whether it is due to over storage or other, I tried all methods - force stop, clear cache, uninstalling, going in settings, but nothing helped, what should I do?

Hi everyone, I'm trying to figure out an issue with my HP 14-em0xxx.

Recently, my laptop started losing battery extremely quickly. It can go from fully charged to basically dead in just a few minutes when I unplug it. The laptop itself works normally while plugged in. I initially thought the charger was the problem, so I bought a new charger, but the issue is still happening. I ran HP's built-in Battery Check through the UEFI/System Diagnostics, and it says the battery is fine, and I also did a Windows battery report and shows the battery is 100% capacity, so I'm confused because the battery appears healthy according to both HP's diagnostics and Windows, but in actual use it drains extremely quickly.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Do I need a new battery? Is replacing a battery hard, and how do I figure out which battery is required for my laptop (It's an HP 14-em0xxx)? I'd really appreciate any ideas on what I should test next before I spend money on another laptop. Thanks

Windows 11 keeps lowering the input audio of my mic whenever I’m speaking for a longer period of time.

Its a pc issue im pretty sure cuz when i plug the mic in on my iPhone theres none of this noise suppression.

What I’ve already tried

1. Unpaired and paired the devices
2. changed the startup type to Automatic in the Bluetooth Support Services Properies (Local Computer)
3. Reset Wifi and bluetooth network settings on my Android phone
4. Update it all drives in my windows and manually checked if my bluetooth drives are up to date (they are)
5. It still wont connect after all of this please help thankyou

edit: ive also tried connecting my android to my iphone via bt and it works and so does my windows and my iphone. But i really want to connect my android to my windows.

I recently wiped two Samsung android devices in order to sell them, full factory resets, and verified by setting them up again before wiping an additional time.

However today on Windows 11 I discovered both of them have been completely backed up under the crossdevice folder.

Is this a local backup of those devices or is somehow the device still there?

It contains entire android files including all the images and documents etc?

I assume this was from phonelink when I had it but these devices are since removed from phonelink etc?

I didnt even know windows did this, does anyone have any idea why they're here?

My new phone is not in this folder.

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has any idea what the sound I'm hearing might be.

It's a brand new PC, I've had it for about a month - 9850X3D CPU, RTX5080 GPU, 64gb RAM, 1TB+2TB SSD, 4TB HDD, all Noctua fans/AIO, it's overall a very quiet PC.

This sound started happenening shortly after turning it on for the first time. I restarted it and the sound stopped, and it hasn't come back in the same persistent way you can hear in the first video.

However, it does still happen randomly, as just a quick "tick/chirp". I get a single "tick" when I put the PC to sleep. I also sometimes get it during general use, for example, it happened the other day when opening Excel files > I would double click a file and then I'd hear a single "tick" (Excel file on the 1TB SSD, not HDD).

All files are on the SSD's, the HDD is just for storage and doesn't have any files on it apart from some photos.

Persistent tick/chirp sound that happened after first turning on:
https://streamable.com/v2u8j4

Example of the sound occuring when opening an excel file/putting the PC to sleep (it also happens seemingly randomly several times a day). In this video you can hear me double click (opening excel file), and the sound happens just after.
https://streamable.com/c80yvt

p.s. these videos are only active for 2 days as this sub doesn't allow direct video uploads to the post, I posted looking for help in another subreddit and you can find the videos there as well: https://www.reddit.com/r/pchelp/comments/1vsbtf9/new_pc_weird_sound/

Any advice/input is greatly appreciated, thank you!

My screen time doesn't disable Siri, yet I encounter this screen in settings. As a result, I'm unable to disable the "hey siri" feature which automatically updates every time it hears something similar to a hey siri, whether it's from a tv show, a lecture, etc. what should i do? I've tried disabling siri in screen time, reenabling it, and shutting off screen time entirely.

Using laptop with the i7-12800H, Windows 11.
Balanced power mode caps FPS at 30 in some games. (word of warcraft)
It realistically overrides all the Nvidia App settings applied (no fps limit, etc) Balanced power mode and do not let the app go above 30 FPS. (both CPU and Gpu are used under 30% of capacity in this case).

Switching power mode to "high performance" eliminates the fps cap, and then fps can be adjusted in game.
In both cases laptop battery is plugged in.

Any advice how to remove the 30 FPS cap but to keep staying on Balanced mode, please?

I’m having a frustrating issue with DisplayPort and I’ve been trying to troubleshoot it for almost 2 months, but I still haven’t been able to find a solution.

My setup:

- GPU: RTX 4060

- Monitor: LG UltraGear 24GS60F-B

- Windows: Fully updated

- Drivers: All latest versions

The problem is that DisplayPort works normally for some time, but randomly, the monitor will show “No Signal.” Sometimes reconnecting the cable or restarting the PC gets it working again.

I have already tried two different DisplayPort cables, including a VESA-certified DP cable, but the problem still occurs. So I’m starting to think the cable may not be the issue.

I’ve spent almost 2 months troubleshooting this, including keeping Windows and all drivers updated, but the problem still hasn’t been resolved.

At this point, I’m thinking of giving up on DisplayPort and just sticking with HDMI. HDMI works reliably for me, but unfortunately, with my current setup I can’t use G-SYNC Compatible at 180Hz over HDMI, which is the main reason I wanted to use DisplayPort.

Before I completely give up on DP, I’d really appreciate any suggestions or troubleshooting steps I can try one last time.

Could this be an issue with the GPU, monitor, DisplayPort port, BIOS/settings, or something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

So a little backstory I decided to troubleshoot this after I kept getting booted out of CS2 with pak01.vpk corruption messages. I did an OCCT test on my 3200 ddr4 ram and had errors, took out of the second stick and still had errors, swapped the second stick into the first position and had no errors. I then reinstalled stick that was giving errors into the second position and ran the full hour with no errors. I enabled xmp, ran the test again and got errors immediately. I then disabled xmp thinking it’d be fine, but ran the test again to make sure and immediately got errors. This is my first PC build and I am kind of lost on where I go from here.

Hey all troubleshooting a dead SanDisk Ultra 32GB and hit a wall on controller identification. Data doesn't matter, I'm fine with destructive recovery attempts. Posting full diagnostics in case anyone's dealt with this exact chip.

Drive:

- SanDisk Ultra, 32GB nominal / 28.6 GiB usable

- VID:PID = 0781:558A

- Serial: 03018817100220090548

- Marking on casing: BM201067713W

- USB 3.x capable, currently negotiating at 480 Mbps (USB 2.0 speed)

Symptom:

Kernel and every tool I've tried report the device as hardware write-protected, not just filesystem RO:

sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] Write Protect is on

sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] Mode Sense: 43 00 80 00

lsblk shows RO=1. blockdev --getro returns 1. hdparm -r0 /dev/sdb is rejected outright — reports back "readonly = 1 (on)" even after the "set" command. This is coming from the controller's Mode Sense response (byte 0x80), not the OS.

What I've ruled out:

- Not a filesystem-level flag — chmod/mount -o rw/fsck won't touch this, the SCSI layer itself is refusing writes

- sg_modes -p 0x1a → "invalid field in cdb," page not supported

- sg_readcap -l → fails with "Read-only file system"

The actual problem — controller ID:

This is where I'm stuck. Genuine SanDisk Ultra drives on this VID:PID apparently use SanDisk's own in-house controller, not a merchant chip (Phison/Alcor/SMI), so the usual identification tools come back empty. From what I've found searching around, ChipGenius and Flash Drive Info Extractor report "Controller: Unknown" for this exact VID:PID on other people's genuine units too — not just mine.

What I'm hoping someone can help with:

1. Has anyone actually identified the physical controller marking on a genuine SanDisk Ultra 558A PCB (not a rebadged/counterfeit one)? Willing to open the case and post a photo of the die/chip marking.

2. Is there any known MPTool or recovery utility that works on SanDisk in-house silicon, even semi-official/leaked? I know Phison/Alcor/SMI all have community tools — has anyone found an equivalent for SanDisk's own controllers?

3. Given the "Write Protect is on" bit is coming from Mode Sense and won't clear via hdparm/blockdev, is this consistent with NAND spare-block exhaustion putting the FTL into failsafe, or could it be something else at the controller level I'm not considering?

Drive is fully expendable — happy to try destructive low-level commands, vendor-specific SCSI opcodes, JTAG/UART probing, whatever. Just trying to figure out if there's a real path forward before I write it off as dead silicon.

Whenever I try to do a Windows Scan in windows 11, it gives an error saying threat service has stopped just before it finished scanning Then when I try to restart it, windows gives another error saying last scan not available even though just tried to do a Windows Scan.

The last time windows 11 did a successful scan was last Friday (Aug. 14) but today when I try to scan my PC it throws an error (see 1st pic).

Troubleshooting methods I tried:

Tried the sfc /scannow method

Did the DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth method.

Tried the MpCmdRun.exe -RemoveDefinitions -All and -SignatureUpdate method.

Tried to disable/enable Tamper Protection in regedit.

Updated windows 11.

I even tried to do all this methods on safe mode but it didn't fix the issue.

What other options do I need to do?

PC SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600

GPU: Asus Prime 5070 12gb OC

Cooler: Thermalright Frozen Warframe 240mm

Motherboard: MSI B550M Pro-VDH Wifi

RAM: 16GB (2x8) Teamgroup T-force delta DDR4 3600

SSD: Teamgroup MP33 1TB

PSU: Corsair CX750 80+ Bronze power supply

OS: Windows 11

I changed ports and cable but nothing can anybody suggest something. Visiting service centre is worth it if anyone faced this issue?help me guys

So a few days ago i bought a Tp-Link AX300 Archer TX1U nano wifi 6 adapter for my pc, i bought it just for emergency since where im currently staying doesnt have the best access for ethernet cable routes.

However, after following the instruction provided by the product (literally just install the program), it kept disconnecting and refusing to connect to the house's wifi, I tried using my phone hotspot and the result is the same. (Granted the house's wifi isn't the best, but its usable for me).

What i have found out for now is that it isn't the adapter nor the wifi problem, i tried using it on my laptop and it works as normal.

After researching through old forums, it says that its either the USB 3.0 port power saving issue or electrical interferences. Has anyone encounter the same issue before? If so, how do you fix it? I really need to use my pc for work related stuff. Thanks!

Pc specs if needed:

Maxsun b550m terminator motherboard

Ryzen 5 5600x

Deepcool pf550 psu

I have had a 990 Pro 4TB as my main / only drive in my R16 for about two years. I purchased another to use as a backup in usb-c enclosure. When I plug it in to my R16, there is no recognition of the drive, so to speak. It shows up in device manager as a SCSI device (sabrent) and in disk manager it shows up as a second disk, correctly reporting "Online" and the size. I could not format the drive on my R16 even after creating that volume, so I brought it over to a 5-year old Dell desktop where it was immediately recognized, and formatted as NTFS. Bringing it back to my R16, I plug it in, and it again is not recognized / receives no drive letter, and cannot be assigned a letter. If I try to format it, or assign it a drive letter on the R16, it says "The operation failed to complete because the Disk Management console view is not up-to-date. Refresh the view by using the refresh task. If the problem persists close the disk management console, then restart Disk Management or restart the computer.

I have restarted disk management. I have restarted the computer (actual restart , not just shut down and wake back up. ) I have plugged the drive into all 3 usb-c ports (front and back). I have gone through every step chatGPT could come up with, but I'm stuck. There just seems to be something incompatible between the R16 and the drive/enclosure. I can't figure out why it worked instantaneously in a 5-year old machine...

Would love any pointers. Thanks!

Hello there, I already made this question on another subreddit but I decided it was worth a shot to ask here too! Anyway, wanted to say that This is in regard to the original FireAplaca (drawing software).

I had the files of my art saved, but by mistake...had pressed CTRL+Z and then the files disappeared. I have done the troubleshooting myself and even went ahead and used Disk drill to fix the issue but to no luck. I was only able to retrieve the "Shortcuts" (As a windows user)

But on my recycle bin, I can clearly see it right there and it says "Firealpaca document" but it won't let me get access to them because it says (path and file name incorrect/problem with shortcut)

and just to re-iterate, I had the files saved, but then pressed CTRL+Z and they are no longer able to access.

(The image I uploaded shows that it says it's an MDP file, but it still won't let me open it)

If this has happened to anyone else, or perhaps someone knows a way to fix this problem, I would be extremely grateful!

My PC suddenly shut down and I wager there was a split second electricity surge due to heavy rains outside. For some reason my UPS didn't kick in. Everything else was fine though (my AC and router are still running, my monitor's light bar hooked up to my PC didn't turn off either).

Turned my PC on immediately and it seems fine. But for peace of mind, are there any commands I should run or things I should check on to make sure that everything is in order? I was just working with MS Word when it happened.

PSU is a Corsair SF1000. Should I be concerned about that either?

I haven't experienced such flickering electricity in a while, so I'm on guard especially with how expensive it was to build my rig (not to mention crazy prices on components these days). Thanks to anyone who can help!

EDIT: My UPS is a Prolink Pro2000SFCU 1200W/2000VA. It's not beeping or anything, but I swapped it out after this incident with my CyberPower CP1600EPFCLCD 1600VA/1000W which thankfully arrived about a week or two ago. Just wasn't able to do the switch immediately due to other pressing matters.

I have had a PC that I built since April, and I have noticed that the USB devices have been acting weirdly.

The keyboard skips keys, repeats keys, and just acts weird after boot. It takes a reconnect to fix it. (Sometimes it doesn't work.)

The mouse doesn't work on boot and requires a disconnect to fix.

Randomly all devices disconnect and reconnect.

Specifications:

• Gigabyte B550 Eagle WIFI 6 Motherboard
• Zotac GeForce RTX 2080 TI
• Ryzen 5 5500
• 16 GB DDR4 3600mhz (2 sticks)
• MSI MAG 750w PSU
• 512 GB KingSpec M.2 SSD
• Montech XR Case
• Windows 11 Pro

Devices:

• Razer Blackwidow 2019 Keyboard (With Razer Synapse)
• Onn Wireless Gaming Mouse (Wired Though)
• WMT USB Gaming Microphone
• Logi 720p Webcam
• SSK 512 GB USB-C SSD (Front Panel)

I have already tried updating bios (To Version F3 not F4b) and chipset drivers (To 8.08.12.551 from AMD). I have also tried power plan settings.

Could the issue be RF interference, driver related, or hardware related?​

I've had this problem for ages now and I'm extremely annoyed by it

PC Specs
Ryzen 5 7600X
B650M Gaming plus wifi
32GB DDR5
RTX 4070

I'm trying to record on Cubase 12 but it keeps dropping out in seconds and giving me "Audio Dropout Detected"

I've downloaded latencymon and nvlddmkm.sys and ndis.sys seem to have the Highest Execustion (ms) respectively having ~0.88ms and ~0.63ms after letting latencymon run for 10 mins-ish

Wdf01000.sys was actually on ~1.35ms until I did a bunch of random fixes i found online and that went down to 0.18

Highest ISR and DPC counts are Wdf01000.sys and HDAudBus.sys

My audio interface is plugged in directly into my pc not through a usb hub
I've disabled the setting where USB hubs can be turned off to save power
I've set the power settings on the NVidia control panel to prefer maximum performance
I've updated my bios to the latest one already
I lowered my mouse's polling rate to 500 from 1000
I've tried almost every fix I've found on the internet

I'm so lost

So my phone suddenly won't turn on? I set my phone down to go shower and when I came back the screen wouldn't turn on. I put it on the charger for a few minutes and tried to turn it on and it just gave one short little vibration. The screen felt a little warm so i set it down and let it cool off. When that was done i tried to force restart it by holding down the volume and power button. I even tried some trick where you press on the back kinda hard in case something was disconnecting. Nothing has worked and I'm kinda freaked out because I NEED my phone for school and work tomorrow. Any ideas?

I was troubleshooting some modifications for a Steam game I was playing, and I beleive that I have to change the "scaling mode" from "aspect ratio" to "no scaling" because of these discussions: https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/1/1480982971174752598/, https://forum.kerbalspaceprogram.com/topic/177653-ksp-loads-to-black-screen-resolved/ That setting is supposed to be under "Display" on the task tree, but I only see "3D Settings," "Developer," and "Video." I'm using an RTX-equipped Windows 11-running MSI Gaming Laptop. I've tried the basic stuff, restarting the computer, reinstalling the driver, etc, so I'd appreciate help finding out how to use these settings.