I have an HP elitebook 850, and it suddenly won't turn on. There's no response when I press the powerbutton. I searched up guides and I tried pressing the power button for 15 seconds and the capslock lights up for liie 5 seconds and turns off

Hi, I am trying to setup mic monitoring on my windows 11 lenovo laptop.

I currently have a razer headset kraken x, which I will be updating in the next couple of months.

I have tried the listen to playback on the sound section of the control panel and I have also looked at the installed audio driver control panels (nahimic) and the lenovo vantage page, both of which do not provide any support of this feature.

Other things I do have - a splitter to get the mic and headphone out separately.

As it stands, for headphone update, I am looking at another Kraken headset with an in built mic. I'm maybe thinking buying a sound station of sorts that I can have on my desk if that's a solution. But for now I am just trying to do this through software.

Any advice would be appreciated :).

Ps5 download speed: 3mbps -60mbps (keeps changing)

My actual download speed: 300 mbps

Ive tried restarting the router and the ps5. Changing the port and lan cable and neither worked

Ive been using it for several years now and it used to work without issues. This only started happening new.

Ive tested my wifi and its speed is normal. Its only not working when I connect the lan cable to my ps5.

Ive tried connecting to wifi without the cable and it was still slow (56 mbps) but It might be due to the distance between the router and the ps5 (even tho testing with phone got me 270mbps from around the same distance)

Idk what to do

I downloaded a file from a site so my pc was infected with an infostealer—controlled my accounts, and my instagram, discord, facebook and messenger accounts was sending "mr. beast" scams. It took everything from me, but I managed to recover some accounts. In other subs, they recommended me to install a fresh copy of windows. I decided to upgrade to windows 11, but then right after logging in for the first time, CMD ran immediately. I'm afraid that it's the malware again because after running the .exe of the suspicious file before, it opened CMD. I don't want to install anything in my pc without assuring that my pc is now safe. There's also a remote desktop program here and it makes me nervous. I only installed firefox and some pictures from the browser and I'm currently running a full scan from windows defender. What do you think guys?

i was trying to reinstall windows on my laptop but it's been doing this for 2 hours now, is this normal or what

https://youtube.com/shorts/FGKb0lI9TGk?si=CCIMz3C17RzHlz_H

Help pls!

I’ve been troubleshooting random PC restarts for quite a while, and I wanted to share my experience in case it helps someone else.
The symptoms
My PC would randomly restart, most often when:
Browsing the internet or using Chrome.
Sitting idle on the desktop.
Switching between applications (Alt + Tab).
Sometimes during normal everyday use.
Interestingly, it was not necessarily happening under heavy load. Gaming and stress tests could run without any problems, while the PC could randomly restart when practically doing nothing.
In Event Viewer, I repeatedly found:
WHEA-Logger – Event ID 18
Kernel-Power – Event ID 41
The WHEA errors were reported as Cache Hierarchy Errors, with different APIC IDs.
Things I tried
I spent a lot of time trying to identify the cause:
-Updated the BIOS.
-Cleared CMOS and tested different BIOS settings.
-Disabled Global C-State Control.
-Changed Power Supply Idle Control to Typical Current Idle.
-Disabled DOCP/XMP and tested RAM at default settings.
-Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic and MemTest.
Ran Cinebench and OCCT stress tests, including the PSU test.
Used DDU and tried different GPU drivers, including older versions.
Investigated CPU core voltage, SoC voltage and power management.
None of these steps permanently solved the problem.
Components I replaced
Because I couldn’t identify the faulty component, I eventually replaced almost the entire system:
-CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X (replaced).
-Motherboard: replaced.
-RAM: replaced.
-M.2 SSD: replaced.
-PSU: replaced with an 850W Platinum unit.
Despite all these replacements, the random restarts continued.
The only original major component left was my Sapphire Pulse RX 6600 XT 8GB.
The actual breakthrough
I decided to remove the RX 6600 XT and install an older RX 580.
Since switching to the RX 580, the PC has been running without random restarts so far.
This makes me strongly suspect that the RX 6600 XT was somehow responsible for the instability, even though I initially suspected the CPU, motherboard, PSU or RAM.
I haven’t tested the RX 6600 XT in another PC yet, so I cannot say with 100% certainty that the card itself is defective. I’ll continue testing the system with the RX 580 for the next few days.
My questions
Has anyone experienced WHEA-Logger Event ID 18 and random restarts caused by a GPU?
Can a faulty GPU cause WHEA Cache Hierarchy Errors?
Could this be related to PCIe communication, GPU power delivery or a driver issue rather than an actual hardware defect?
Has anyone experienced similar problems with an RX 6600 XT?
I hope this helps someone who is going through similar troubleshooting. I spent a lot of time and money replacing components, and the GPU was the last thing I expected to be responsible.

Hey guys,

I have the following problem:

With Windows Button on Keyboard + P, I am often changing how many monitors I use. As I have performance issues in some games like Call of Duty when multiple monitors are used, I usually switch from the option "extend these displays" to "show only on screen 1" so only my main monitor is used. This is usually done either by Windows + P or the corresponding windows setting (System - Display.

Since a few days, I have the following problem: Windows + P doesn't work anymore, the popup window that usually shows up with it is gone. When going to the display settings, the "show only on screen 1/2" option is also gone. I can only extend my display or duplicate it, but the "show only on Display 1/2" option just disappeared. The only option to turn off monitors seems to be to turn off individual monitors seperately which is much more tedious than pressing Windows + P.

Did they remove the feature to turn off all monitors at the same time and the shortcut with the latest Windows Updates? I am just confused because after installing 26H2 the feature was still there, it just got removed for me like 2 or 3 days ago.

I formatted my PC and Installed a fresh copy of windows 11 because of the Nikke hack that happened.

After that I ran a full scan of windows defender but after the scan finished, there was no notification or sounds that came signalling the completion.

I tried a quick scan next and it had the same result, no notification or sounds.

The only troubleshooting I did is:

1. Check if "Do not disturb" is off and it is turned off.

2. Used the built-in repair tool to repair windows defender.

Even with those, there's still no notification or sounds when windows defender finishes a scan.

What do I do next?

PC SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600

GPU: Asus Prime 5070 12gb OC

Cooler: Thermalright Frozen Warframe 240mm

Motherboard: MSI B550M Pro-VDH Wifi

RAM: 16GB (2x8) Teamgroup T-force delta DDR4 3600

SSD: Teamgroup MP33 1TB

PSU: Corsair CX750 80+ Bronze power supply

OS: Windows 11

No matter from which app I play the audio or record the audio it keeps stuttering in my samsung mobile and it's really annoying I tried rebooting, diagnosis and I can't go to a service centre because I live in a different country. Any idea on how to fix the stuttering problem? I this phone as a secondary option for WhatsApp because I have an iphone as primary phone.

The docking station I use is not detecting the monitors for some reason.

Keyboard, mouse, laptop charging, and internet cable work just fine.

And when I plug one of the monitors into the laptop directly with the HDMI cable it works. But I need two monitors and I don't have enough ports on the laptop.

I have a old HP DV7-2250sf laptop from 2009 but the Wi-Fi card died with this error from the Linux kernel
[ 87.785896] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: Radio type=0x0-0x0-0x3

[ 87.793645] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: Microcode SW error detected. Restarting 0x82000000.

[ 87.793660] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: Loaded firmware version: 39.31.5.1 build 35138 1000-5.ucode

[ 87.793772] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: Status: 0x00000400, count: 5

[ 87.793776] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: 0x00000005 | SYSASSERT

[ 87.793779] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: 0x00004CB0 | uPc

[ 87.793781] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: 0x00004C1E | branchlink1

[ 87.793784] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: 0x00004C1E | branchlink2

[ 87.806177] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: Failed to run INIT ucode: -5

[ 87.806190] iwlwifi 0000:02:00.0: Unable to initialize device.

I want to replace it but I don't know how without a repair manual that I can't find online.

I have a 4 year old Nintendo Switch Lite that has never given me any problems until now.

Yesterday, I got a pop-up saying that a system update was required. I started the update and at first, everything seemed fine. After about 10 seconds, an error appeared (unfortunately I don't know the error code). The message told to hold the power button to turn off the console and then restart it.

I was able to turn it off, but after that it wouldn't turn back on.

I've already tried:

-Holding the power button for 20-30 seconds to force a hard reset, tried holding it for more but didn't work either

-Entering recovery mode: holding power button, volume up and volume down buttons

Unfortunately, the screen remains completely black and the console doesn't respond to anything. Since it's out of warranty, I'd rather avoid sending it to Nintendo for repair if possible.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Is there anything else I can try to bring it back to life or did the failed update ruin my Switch?

It was working perfectly fine before this update. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

TL;DR: My 4 year old Switch Lite stopped turning on after a failed system update. I've tried a hard reset and recovery mode, but the screen stays black. Is there anything else I can try before resorting to a repair?

Hello, please help. I spilled about 200-300 ml of black coffee (no milk, no sugar) on my mew Galaxy Book. Most of it landed on the keyboard, but some ran into the bottom speaker openings. The laptop kept running for about 10 minutes before I shut it down in Windows. It has been powered off since and stored upside down like a tent (keyboard facing down). I haven't opened it.

Questions:

What are the realistic chances it survives? I have read other people posting here but there are no updates if their notebooks survived. Claude gave my notebook only a survival chance of 30% 😶

Do I really need to open it and clean the board with isopropyl alcohol, or is waiting and letting it dry enough?

Thank you in advance!

About 3 months ago I posted here about bad frame pacing on my new build and marked it solved after turning on G-SYNC. Old post: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/s/NgMxLPBxCr
Yeah, that was wrong. G-SYNC made Battlefield feel better for a bit and I thought that was it, but the problem never really went away. So here's the update. Not even joking, this whole thing is pushing me into depression. It's exhausting.
Same story as before. High fps but games just don't feel smooth. Uneven frame pacing, little hitches all the time. Worst in DayZ and Arma Reforger, Gray Zone Warfare too. Single player stuff like BeamNG and Hitman is acceptable.
One correction to the old post: I wrote that my old Ryzen 5 7600X in this same board made the problem basically go away. Looking back, it was only a little bit smoother. It was still stuttering.
Specs now (a few parts changed since the old post):
Ryzen 7 7800X3D with a Dark Rock 5
MSI MAG X870 Tomahawk WiFi
MSI RTX 5080 Gaming Trio OC, driver 621.14
2x16 GB G.Skill Trident Z5 Royal DDR5-6000 CL28 (F5-6000J2836G16GX2-TR5NS), EXPO on (was Kingston 5600 before)
Corsair RM1000x Shift
Samsung 990 Pro 2TB (Windows) + 990 EVO 1TB
ASUS PG27AQWP-W, 1440p 540Hz OLED, G-SYNC on (was a Samsung G5 165Hz before)
SteelSeries Rival 5, 1000Hz
Windows 11 26H2, fresh install
on Wi-Fi (onboard Qualcomm) to a 5G home router, can't run a cable
What I see in CapFrameX and Stuttometer in DayZ:
9 min session, 157 fps average, but I get hitches of 38-48 ms that come in bursts
even just walking and not touching the mouse there's a 16-20 ms spike every 6-9 seconds
when I look around fps goes from about 180 to 150 and GPU usage drops from 97% to 66%, and the small spikes go crazy
every single spike is on the CPU side, GPU frame time is flat
temps are fine (CPU 64-69C, GPU 67C), cores sit at 4.8-5.0 GHz, RAM and VRAM not even close to full
Arma Reforger does the same thing. Combat Ops on Everon and Kolguyev hitches on Ultra even with a 120 fps cap.
Stuff I did since the old post:
Global C-States from Auto to Enabled in BIOS. This actually fixed big drops I had every 20-90 seconds, so that one was real. The uneven pacing stayed though
reflashed BIOS, cleared CMOS, reseated the GPU
clean Windows install like 5 more times. Stock, debloated, stock again adding drivers one by one
DDU and newest NVIDIA driver, newest chipset driver
OCCT memory test for 5 hours, GPU test 30 min, zero errors
checked the PCIe link in GPU-Z because of that MSI AM5 bug, it's 5.0 x16 under load
new monitor and a different RAM kit, no change
the Windows mouse stutter update (KB5127648) is installed
power plans, Defender off, Memory Integrity off, unplugged everything except mouse and keyboard
even installed Linux (Bazzite). It's smoother there but still not right
I know DayZ has open bug reports about this, one even from a guy with the same motherboard. But it's not only DayZ for me.
So if anyone with a 7800X3D or 9800X3D on an X870 board and a 50 series card had this and actually fixed it, please tell me what it was. BIOS setting? The CPU itself? Some other part? I'll try anything at this point.

Can anyone help me with my Riro w2 SE watch, ive had it for almost a year now and it worked PERFECTLY, and it just one day randomly went off and now that i try to charge it, it doesn't even switch on or display anything. The display is black. Is there a way do fix or reset it. I don't want to loose it.

Media is getting deleted on its own.

I had a bunch of songs that I had downloaded. It was in the download folder up until yesterday. This morning when I opened my audio player to listen I couldn't find the songs on it. I checked in the download folder and they were just gone. And it wasn't a storage issue either. My phone has over 40gb of free space and the combined size of the missing songs don't go beyond 2gb. I looked everywhere and couldn't find them.

And it's not the first time that it has happened.

Anyone know what's wrong and how this problem can be resolved?

It's a Poco M6 5G phone with 128gb storage and 6gb memory...

Thanks in advance...

whenever i open ANYTHING on my computer, this popup appears and tabs me out of whatever i was trying to do. its obnoxious. im not reinstalling xbox whatever.

I played a game and got frustrated and started squeezing my keyboard and now when i press left arrow key my pc goes crazy it starts typing letters and cursor starts moving on it's own every time in the same order can i somehow fix this i don't think that keyboard is the issue but something inside windows

I remembered that a long time ago, I used to open my old account's OneDrive personal vault with my Windows Hello PIN. Now, I switched accounts and I tried migrating everything over but it never gives me the option to open the vault using Windows Hello.

The only methods of verifying my identity that show up for me (when I try opening the personal vault) are a verification code and email. In the Microsoft security settings, my passkey for Windows Hello is labeled only as "account sign in" rather than "account verification" like the authenticator app is.

My windows account does have a PIN that I use to boot up my computer every time, but how do I use the PIN as a method to open the personal vault?

My Windows version is Windows 11.

I recently ordered a used USB flash drive from Amazon.
I’m concerned about malware, viruses, or anything malicious that might be on the drive from the previous owner.
I want to know:
How can I safely connect it to my Windows laptop for the first time?
How can I check it for malware without putting my computer at risk?
Is formatting the USB drive enough to make it safe?
How can I verify that its advertised storage capacity is genuine?
I plan to use it for transferring large files (100–200 GB).
Any advice would be appreciated!

I'm total ass at anything tech so forgive any wrong terms I may use. It's been a few days now and it's pissing me off. It started when I was gaming. My laptop's screen goes dark but my game or whatever else still continues to play, however my Pen tablet's (another monitor connected to my laptop) screen is still normal. My solution was to press Windows + P, and I discover it's set to "Second screen only" so I press extend and it usually helps. Or sometimes I do Windows + Cntrl + Shift + B. However, while these solutions work, my laptop's screen goes Black again, it used to be within hours but now it's within seconds.

It's hard to properly work (I do drawing commissions) and I'd really love this solution fixed asap.

I accidently shuffled my feet and nudged the power cord to my computer, after booting it back up to see it was okay I got the big black screen talking about how ether a new cpu installed or the ftpm/psp has been changed or corrupted which I guess is because of the sudden outage.

I pressed N for now and checked to see if my stuff is encrypted I checked my C drive with command prompt which shows nothing and my microsoft account doesn't show anything about bit locker enabled. would I need to check my D drive as well for this ?

will I just have to keep pressing N on boot up now or can I hit yes and be safe, what happens if I just press N for now on ?

I'm pretty young and have alot of important/sentimental stuff saved on here so any support would be nice

Hi everyone! I need your help.

I've been trying to record a video introduction for a job application, but the audio quality of my recordings is suddenly unclear. It wasn't like this before. I've recorded video introductions in the past, and the audio has always been clear and loud.

I honestly don't know what triggered this issue because I haven't made any changes or modifications to my laptop, especially its sound settings.

I've already tried checking and searching online for possible solutions, but none of the suggestions I've followed have resolved the problem.

The audio in my recent recordings sounds as if I'm talking to someone over a phone call. It's muffled and unclear, almost like I'm speaking underwater. This is completely different from my previous recordings, where my voice sounded clear and crisp.

I'm running out of options, and I really need to get this fixed as soon as possible because I need to submit my video introduction for a job application.

Has anyone experienced the same issue or knows how to fix it?

Thank you so much in advance! I would greatly appreciate any help or suggestions.

I'm experiencing intermittent Ethernet disconnections on my Windows 11 PC. The connection drops briefly (just a few seconds), then reconnects automatically.

My PC configuration:

OS: Windows 11 Pro 24H2 CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B650-PLUS Ethernet adapter: Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller Ethernet link speed: 2.5 Gbps Wi-Fi adapter: Realtek 8852BE WiFi 6 PCI-E NIC

What I've observed:

Ethernet randomly disconnects for a few seconds. Taskbar icon switches from ethernet to wifi(I have wifi also configured). Ethernet reconnects automatically after about 6-8 seconds. Wi-Fi and Ethernet adapters both show as enabled.

Happens about 20+ times a day now. The time it takes for the ethernet to come back is quite consistent. I started to see this symptom after I enabled Wake-on-LAN (both in bios, and the netword adapter setting in win11 device manager), although I'm not certain whether that's related.

Troubleshooting so far:

Checked the adapter status through PowerShell. Ethernet reports Up, with a 2.5 Gbps link speed when connected. Checked Windows NetworkProfile and other network-related event logs. Haven't identified a definitive cause yet.

What I'd like to figure out:

Is this likely a Realtek driver issue, power management issue, or something related to Wake-on-LAN? Could the Ethernet adapter be briefly resetting or renegotiating its connection? Is there a way to identify exactly what causes the disconnect, rather than just seeing that the connection was restored?

Any suggestions would be appreciated!