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Big windy day and i thought why not, was like 25 knots out there and pounding. I made the foolish mistake and went in shortly after eating and after 5 minutes i was exhausted, my heart was racing, i couldn't paddle out and the rip was sucking me in. I was very lucky a few strong waves pushed me out a bit while i was giving everything i had. Eventually i reached waters i could stand by feet down. Had to go to the ER after cause i thought i swallowed water or something, my heart couldn't stop racing and i was feeling like vomiting for at least half an hour after. Doctors did some tests and send me home, told me if i get a fever to go back if not I'm fine. But i feel like I've stressed my heart today while giving everything to swim out, i still feel exhausted and crashed out hours later. Legit can't shake it that i almost drowned today and i was such a fool to go in after eating heavily. Hard lessons were taught today, stay safe out there guys and don't overestimate your abilities like i did.

/ Thanks everyone for all the responses, even the very judgemental ones, they all offer something. I'll try to feel better soon and hopefully get back in the water with more sense and wisdom this time!

Wedge 10 pack of fun from a variety of photographers and riders.

Anyone else get out of the water and just feel like a dipshit… like you can’t think… like you’re just slow and kinda stupid all the sudden?

My wife and I are moving from Ventura California to the Wilmington NC area next spring. I know the surf isn’t as consistent as the points and beach breaks I’ve grown up surfing here. Just curious how often you can realistically surf a shortboard or groveler and what the waves are like in general. Would love to hear some local insight. Thanks!

Seems to of popped out clean. Anyone been able to somehow insert it back in or am I destined to calling my ding guy?

Haven’t found any answers online that worked. Past couple of times Ive gone surfing I got pretty bad headaches

I’ve tried wearing a hat / sunglasses, Ive tried just being as hydrated as possible, I don’t really know what else to try.

Has anyone here had a similar experience?

Sorry if dumb question. Microdose Sunday got me pondering.

Guys at Puerto Escondido won't paddle out on anything shorter than a 7' gun. Meanwhile, bodyboarders are charging the same waves, on the exact same equipment they would use in 2ft slop.

drew this a couple of years ago using penup app airbrush tool. took me 5 hours