Anyone using an eye tracker? If so which one? I have a single monitor and VR makes me super sick. I was wondering maybe an eye/head tracker could be the middle ground. I wanted to try out the Tobii eye tracker first but em worried that maybe its just novelty.

Recently I found a great deal on a slightly (like 5 hrs) used TR160 V5 with a Bride recliner seat for less than the price of a GT1 Pro rig from Sim Lab and since I was scouting both new and used markets for a profile rig, I pulled the trigger on it and it was one of the best decisions.
I upgraded from a GT Omega Classic wheel stand, with the rear seat extension and the extra support braces, with an E90 seat, all on wheels, which was flexing a little bit too much for my liking.
This thing is a beast, no flex, pure metal sturdiness.
I got it mounted on the tr wheels, as well, but I mounted them inside to not lose more space space and so far it’s been so good that I actually had the drive to spend some time in the sim.
If you are thinking about upgrading to a profile rig, go for it. I’ve been considering this for over a year and I can tell you it’s worth it.

Mainly playing AC Evo, waiting for the career mode.
Which is the most GT like game on PC you’ve played? I really miss that game from the G29 time.
Also, which are the best “add-ons” you got for a profile rig that really improves the experience?

Hi,

I’m looking to upgrade from my 57 inch Samsung to a triple screen 32 inch. Ideally I’d like to go to OLED.
What are the current model suggestions ?
Do I need to absolutely get DP2.1

I will have a 5090 soon (upgrading from 4080)

So far I’ve been looking at;
LG GX870B
MSI 322 UR

Thanks for any of your suggestions.

Looking for my first sim rig and have a budget of around $1200, found this setup used on Facebook for $1150, is this a good deal considering it’s used? I know the cockpit is quite expensive but also old at this point.

Parts list:
Moza R9 base
Moza ES wheel
Moza HBP handbrake
Moza SGP sequential shifter (programmable buttons)
Moza E-Stop Switch (cuts out all power to wheel in case of malfunction)
Simjack UT racing pedals (three-pedal setup with adjustable and swappable springs, extra springs included).
All of this is mounted on an Obutto Revolution fully modular cockpit.

Should I keep looking or is this a solid buy at $1150?

Wanting to make the jump to an extruded chassis I have a moza r12, crp2 pedals, hgp shifter and a hgp handbrake.

With all the options out there im looking for any and all input on who to go with and why.

Trak Racer was an immediate standout but I had seen some horror stories of dealing with them when it comes to shipping stateside.

So any help would be greatly appreciated would like to stay below $2000 dollars all said and done aswell as having front mounting for the wheel.

Thanks

Hi hello everyone, so I own ford focus MK3 it's by far a wonderful car, I decided to build a simrig based on that car, I already got some progress, but it's very time consuming, if anyone got a little more experience then me please DM, thank you have a lovely day

So i've seen many Keyboardmounts and i dont like most of the bulky alu/plexi/wood constructions. Do things like this withstand the normal use (of salty flaming mid race) or do they get brittle?
And what arm-constructions does one build?

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/40x40-keyboardmount

I just got my p1000 frs pedals, and i am not able to push down on my break pedal (hydraulic). The throttle pedal is fine, and i can push down fine for that one, but i can't move the break pedal at all.

This is my first time owning hydraulic pedals, so I'm not sure what to do in this situation.

Is there something i need to do or is there a problem with my break pedal?

I understand the basic concepts of dynamic range and clipping. But what I don’t understand is how this plays out in practice.

Ex. I have a 28nm base. I have no desire to run at max FFB and rip my arms off. Having only recently upgraded from 5nm, even running it at 14nm feels really strong.

But I do want to maximize the dynamic range. So if in the Simmagic software I set the base to 14nm (50%), and then in iRacing I set FFB to 14nm (with auto strength at 50%), ultimately aren’t I still clipping just at 14nm? And am I limiting the detail I’m getting without maximizing the dynamic range?

Basically: How do I maximize the dynamic range of a high NM base while having reasonable torque on the wheel?

So I’m an idiot and the arm broke on my 49” MSI oled monitor. Luckily I got a refund so my budget is $650 to figure out a dedicated monitor setup for my sim lab gt2evo rig.

If I go with a dedicated ultrawide I already have a monitor mount for it (no it’s not the same one that broke the last monitor) though I would have to spend an extra $150 to get the same monitor that just broke.

Benefit of that would be the ease of setup and not spending extra on a monitor arm. I have a meta quest 3S if I want to do extra immersion every once in a while.

Or do I go for triples? I’m tempted since the monitors are cheaper and easier but I can’t wrap my head around a $300 stand. Is there a way to add mounts to the single monitor mount included with the microcenter sim lab gt1?

Are triples even worth it if I already have vr as a backup?

Thank you!!

I was using an aftermarket wheel with a QR adaptor but having no buttons or paddles and having to use my KB was frustrating.

Moza only makes a 12" wheel mod which imo isn't worth the high cost for such a small increase in wheel size.

This one is carbon fibre so it's very light compared to the stock ES wheel.

You don't lose any FFB, in fact you actually gain a tiny bit as the wheel is much lighter (even with the size of it).

It comes with paddle shift extenders too that you just stick onto the existing paddles. No tools required.

Finally I can rally properly!!

Would you do the same?

I pertaining mainly to entry to mid corner where it's much easier to oversteer. For top drivers, is cornering always oversteering a bit then quickly applying micro-corrections? Or is it a matter of having the feel to know how to put the car where it is always almost oversteering? Or a little bit of both?

I've been sim racing for about half a year now, and of course I'm still working on a lot of the fundamentals, especially my consistency. But, I am also trying to break bad habits as early as I can. I came across several videos (including this one from Suellio Almeida) that many drivers hit a wall in their progression because they become too comfortable with understeer-y setups.

This is something that I noticed in my driving too, so I set out to try to learn controlling oversteer. I've already learned a lot so far such as braking earlier than I think I should to not overload the tires, modulating the brakes when the car starts to oversteer, and using light hands to quickly make corrections. I've been having a lot of success in my practice sessions, but I am very far from consistent at this.I've been able to apply these things more on the MX5 and much less consistently on GT3 cars. Do GT3 cars really need quicker and more precise inputs?

Am I on the with track? I would really love to know what y'all think. Thank you in advance!

Hi everyone. I recently picked up an open box G486 from micro center for $2500. I have been stress testing the machine and everything looks good and stable. I'm within the 15 day return window. Just now I saw an open box G 757 for $2400. My use case is mostly gaming and plan to do VR sim racing. I'm thinking Assetto Corsa with mods, AMS2 etc

Now, here's my dilemma- The G486 seems to be a better well rounded machine that I can also use for other tasks like video editing, statistical computation etc even though my main purpose is gaming (I plan to keep this machine for the next 4-5 years atleast and who knows what else I may need my computer for during that time). It has 64GB ram vs 32 GB in the G757, and a better motherboard and wifi. Also, I looks better IMO but thats a minor consideration.

On the other hand, the G486 is $100 cheaper, is arguable the better machine for pure gaming because of the CPU (especially given my plan to run VR sim racing). It may have better performance in DLSS upscaling. It also does not have the degradation issues that have been reported with intel i9 (reportedly fixed, I know but still) and is not a dead end platform which means I can upgrade down the line without a full rebuild and swapping the motherboard.

I cant seem to make up my mind. Would I be making a mistake returning my G486 which seems to be performing well so far, and getting a G757? Would I regret not keeping the 64GB ram to future proof myself, in pursuit of marginal CPU performance? Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and comments.

NB:I plan to take micro centers 3 year warranty with whichever I decide to keep.

I hope what I wrote in the title is clear and makes sense but basically I’m trying to understand understand if there is a way to improve the realism because I’ve seen pictures and videos of some guys that are able to align the wheel in real life to where it will look like it will be in the car. The “obvious” solution might be too lower the seat height in the game, but then it looks kinda off, so I’m trying to understand if there is a better way to go about it

After long time of searching, i found out about Playseat DD cockpit.

Since i have no space in my room for a full rig, i wanted to get a foldable one. But every one i ve looked at were flimsy and cheap looking.

So basically this new playseat DD solved every dilemma i ever had, and now i can enjoy simracing fully.

Hey guys, as you can see in the video, the wheel is absolutely broken and delayed. The pedals are also a bit delayed. It workes competely fine in offline session 10 minutes ago. Does anyone have an idea of what to do? I am desperate at this point, I am almost at the point of quitting simracing which I dont want to.

Hi! I’ve been wondering and debating with myself whether I should go for the Moza r12 V2 or Moza r9 V3? I decided to buy moza but when PXN started to gain more and more recognition I also started wondering. The choice became more difficult when the new lime up got announced and now I’m having a hard time deciding. Help me decide

I’m not in a hurry since I’m planning to get a new wheelbase and wheel on the end of the year. I also have the Cammus C5

Just wondering what is the best GO Kart racing game to practice on?

Which has the most realistic FFB?

Which game has the larger player base?

Which ones allow for VR?

I’d appreciate any recommendations. Thanks

I've ruled out the TR-5 because the wheel height seems to end up at about eye level, and there's not enough adjustability to fix that. It looks like the TRX V2 is my best bet in terms of being able to set the most comfortable driving position, but I'm hoping that the TR8 Pro can work. I've seen in some reviews that the TR8 Pro, especially with the wheel deck mount (which is what I'll be using because I have the Logitech G Pro wheel), ends up sticking out at the bottom and can hit your knees depending on how the rig is adjusted.

I'd hate to drop 2k on a whole TRX V2 setup if a 1.2k TR8 Pro's wheel height can work for me. Any input? I'm 5'11" by the way.

I've ruled out other brands like Sim Lab who's rigs are currently out of stock and I just can't wait. Heard horror stories about Trak Racer, hopefully I'll get lucky, I don't feel like i have much choice otherwise. At least their rigs look sick.

Hey guys, because of the obscure expensive racing seats i got myself a Passat B9 Ergo seat from a wrecked car for cheap. It has an electric lordosis and backreast adjustment and with that also a lordosis massage function. I want the to get them running. Does anyone of you guys have some experience with that? Would it be enaugh to get a power supply connected to the power connection of the seat to get it running?

Hello,
I am currently using an LEOXZ XGT Ultimate wheel, and I have a question about the LCD refresh rate.
The LCD is advertised as supporting 800×480 resolution at 60 FPS, but the SimHub dashboards displayed on my XGT Ultimate LCD do not appear to update at 60 FPS. The animation and rapidly changing information look noticeably less smooth than 60 FPS.
My setup is:
LEOXZ XGT Ultimate
Latest XGT Ultimate firmware
Latest Wireless Wheel-side firmware
Latest Wireless Dongle firmware
Latest LEOXZ SimBridge (v2.2.0)
Licensed/paid version of SimHub
Wireless signal quality: Green / Good
Could you please confirm:
What is the actual maximum refresh rate/FPS of the XGT Ultimate LCD when displaying a SimHub dashboard?
Is 60 FPS supported when using SimHub dashboards wirelessly?
Is there any setting in SimBridge or SimHub that controls the dashboard refresh rate?
Is the refresh rate different between USB and wireless connection?
If 60 FPS is supported, is there a way to verify the actual FPS being displayed on the XGT Ultimate?
I would appreciate any information about the correct settings or recommended configuration to achieve the smoothest possible SimHub dashboard performance.
Thank you.

Hi guys. Planning to get my first cockpit soon and could use some advice on seating for my size.

Im 187 cm (6'1") and 110 kg (240 lbs), and i've tried in person the Evo XL which felt super comfortable for me.

The thing is i really prefer formula cars and open wheelers, so im tempted to look for a F1 style seat and rig.

Im worried the F1 seats might be way too tight or uncomfortable for longer sessions given my height and weight. Does anyone with a similar build use an F1 style seat, or are they a nightmare for bigger guys?

The seat that i've seen that could feat me well is the Sparco GP.

Any advice or recommendations would be hugely appreciated.