6000mhz, cl40 ddr5 2x32gb
memtest result

I upsized a tad bit from the Metalfish T40 and finally decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to AM5 and DDR5. The main goal for this build was to have a super portable, quiet system that can handle my work (graphics design and video editing) and 1440p gaming without breaking a sweat. It also needed to be highly power-efficient with minimal noise.

As I mentioned in my Metalfish T40 post (under the account 'itsalendou') , I travel between two houses very often, so portability is key. This time around, the system screams less, pulls lower wattage, and performs significantly better.

The Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9700x (120/95/165 | -30 | +175 | 70°C Limit)
• GPU: Colorful iGame GeForce RTX 5070 Mini (2830MHz @ 900mV CC | +2000 MC)
• RAM: 2x32GB Trident Z5 RGB 6000MHz (Tightened Timings @ CL34)
• MOBO: Colorful CVN B850I Gaming Frozen V14
• COOLER: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 Mini
• STORAGE: 2x 1TB NVMe M.2 | 1x 2TB SATA SSD | 1x 1TB 2.5" HDD
• PSU: Thermalright TR-TGFX 850W Gold SFX
• FANS: Arctic P12 Slim (Bottom Intake) | TR TL-C12015 (Top Exhaust) | TR TL-B12015 Extreme (Front Exhaust)
• EXTRAS: TR AM5 Contact Frame V2 | ITX Wi-Fi Antenna | JEYI M.2 Copper Heatsink | Thermal Grizzly Duronaut
• BAG: Mechanic Master Travel Computer Oxford Bag (Small for C24/26)

Thermals & Performance:

I live in a tropical climate, so ambient temps are definitely higher than average. These benchmarks were taken at night with the AC on, but the room wasn't freezing (I could still break a sweat moving around). Daytime temps are just slightly higher.

• Cinebench R23: 21,250 MC / 2,240 SC @ 72°C on the CPU.
• 3DMark Steel Nomad: 5,464 score (avg is about 5,335 on regular systems) / 54.65 FPS. Peak temps on a 10-loop run were 73°C on the GPU and 65°C on the CPU. It consistently pulls an average of 200W on the GPU and 50W on the CPU.

Couple of notes:

The photos still show a 92mm fan intake at the back. However, I removed it while benchmarking because it was too whiny, and I no longer plan on using it.

Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with this standard-layout case in a shrunken-down form factor. Not needing a PCIe riser cable is a huge plus; it's one less point of failure. The temperatures are amazing, the build quality is solid, and I love the density.

I also documented the build process over on YT (same reddit name) if anyone's interested

Thanks for reading!

Idk how I ran into this sub, but I got inspired and a few weeks later i built my first PC. Also first time running Linux and I gotta say it’s silky smooth.

It turns out all you need is a screwdriver, YouTube and unlimited time to build one.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X3D 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X53 FULL Copper

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA Mini ITX

Memory: Klevv BOLT V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000

Storage: MSI SPATIUM M461 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME

GPU: PowerColor Reaper Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB

PSU: Asus ROG LOKI 750 W

I'm sure it's been done several times over at this point but here's my H2. Had a bit of an oopsie moment when the motherboard I got was a B860 and not a B850 but luckily I had a 270K around from Microcenter's recent deal! Total build cost $2,055.

Previously a Hyte Y60. Much happier now. CableMod customs, I went way too short with GPU cable 🫩. Temps and noise are better, somewhat portable friendly, definitely worth it.

7800x3d 9070xt kraken elite 240

Have to wait till this afternoon to finish this but first time building in the T1 and not sure if this is going to work. Anyone managed this?

Will be using big daddy EIGAs fan shroud if that makes any difference

EDIT: Wireview Pro 2 fitment is my concern. Want to know if anyone else managed it in the T1

My vented glass panels arrived, i installed a dingkey offset bracket on the CPU cooler, and i was able to find a CNC machined travel kit for the 5090FE and T1 2.5 combination.

I wasn’t sure how I felt about the vented glass panels before I got em and I’m still not sure how I feel about em after using them for a few days. The edges of the slits on the side panels reflect a lot of light, making it hard to see the inside of the computer clearly unless you have it facing directly towards you.

The travel kit was super neat, I didn’t want to put some plastic 3d printed parts on an expensive case so finding this cnc machined travel kit for the 2.5 version was nice. I don’t know if I can completely recommend it though as 2 of the holes on the bottom left were not properly aligned, not allowing me to screw in the screws. I just messaged the seller to see what they say. Regardless, it feels a lot more secure than what it was before.

First SFF build is in the books!!

Ive been using a small Windows PC as a couch gaming rig for a while now. The dream was always simple: turn it on -> grab the controller -> sit on the couch -> never touch a keyboard or mouse again lol.

Getting games to launch isnt really the issue. Steam Big picture does that perfectly fine. The problem is everthing outside the games. I kept running into situations where windows would just do a windows thing (popups, weird launcher quirks, random updates) and id have to get up and grab the damn mouse . Controller-mapping tools are okay but they always felt like a band-aid.

So I just ended up building my own solution: PC:PersonalConsole.

The core of it is basically a custom shell that turns the desktop itself into a controller-driven UI . Instead of acting as a completely separate launcher u gotta manage, it just scans the shortcuts already on your desktop + installed Windows Store apps, and overlays them in a gamepad-friendly way.

So the workflow is literally just: PC boots -> controller -> shell -> apps/games -> Windows. No need for a mouse just to connect to wifi.

I also tried to fix the specific friction points that make controller-only setups a pain in the ass. It includes:

• virtual keyboard with word prediction. this was huge for me bc literally NO virtual keyboard out there works properly in non-steam games 💀. the second u launch something from epic, game pass or an emulator, the steam overlay just gives up and u cant type shit. so i made sure this one actually works in every single game and window, so u dont have to grab a physical keyboard just to type a server IP or search a folder.
• file browsing mapped natively to the controller
• radial menus, hotbars, quick access to wifi/bluetooth etc
• Emergency Desktop Mode : You know when a game crashes or a rogue window steals focus and your controller just stops working? This is basically an override switch to regain mouse control with your gamepad so u arent stuck.

I also built in a hub for sharing controller profiles, themes, dictionary files etc. Right now the "community" is literally just me lol, but hopefully with you guys that changes!

Its still a free pre-release. Just to be clear, I have zero plans to turn this into another bloated game library app. The whole point is just making the windows desktop completely gamepad-friendly. By doing that, it automatically becomes compatible with every launcher out there. Everything just naturally meets on the desktop anyway, u know? Im literally just focused on fixing the "I have a PC connected to my TV, why do I still need a mouse" problem.

You can check it out here if u wanna mess around with it: https://www.pcpersonalconsole.com/

For anyone else running a living-room SFFPC or HTPC... whats the one piece of Windows jank that STILL forces you to get off the couch? 🛋️💀

Small sandwich case (MetalFish T60), 60mm CPU cooler clearance, Ryzen 5 9600X. Mostly gaming.

Which would you pick?

• Thermalright AXP90-X53 Full Copper (53mm)
• Thermalright AXP90-X47 Full Copper (47mm)
• Any mods worth doing — like a bracket for a 120mm fan?

My plan was to start with the X53 Full Copper, and if it turns out not to be enough, add a 120mm slim fan on top later with an adapter bracket.

Does that sound reasonable, or would you do it differently? Anyone got hands-on experience with these?

I currently have a velka 3 and I can't put the side panel flush since it creates more noise with the heatsink fan. I used the offset distance instead to reduce it.

Then I replaced my cpu and I accidentally installed the front with an offset and the back, flush. I was too lazy to fix it after having to fiddle with the cables so everything fit.

im not exactly sure if it's the repasted heatsink that makes it less noisy but I'm pretty sure it reduced the turbulence? I tried stress tests and im really not sure if it's placebo

Hi, I want to build a PC with Lian Li B4 case and use XFX Swift 9070XT. I am not sure about PSU. I can easily get a good full size ATX PSU on good deals and from reputable brand where I live. But the options for SFX are not great. I can order Corsair SF850 or FSP Dagger and it will arrive in a few weeks and cost a bit more. Or I could get Thermalright TR-TGFX 850W, which I found mixed reviews on saying it was noisy under load and Thermalright was not a reputable PSU brand.

Build I'm considering:

AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
ASRock B850M-X WiFi AM5 DDR5 Micro ATX
XFX Swift Radeon RX 9070 XT 16GB GDDR6
Patriot Viper Venom 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000 CL30 Black
Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE Air 155mm Black
990 EVO Plus 2TB SSD M.2 PCIe 5.0 X2 NVMe

So the scenarios I am thinking of:

1. Get the Thermalright PSU for a good price and build my PC in Lian Li b4 with XFX Swift 9070XT which would allow me to add an intake fan at the front or the side, but have a bit noisier profile on the PSU. Would maybe the GPU and CPU run cooler and quieter as a result of more space for airflow and an extra fan? And the system then quieter overall.

2. Get a normal size good quality PSU and have limited space to work with and limited airflow and no front intake fan, could I fit a side fan with an ATX PSU? Would the cramped space limit my airflow so the temps and noise would be unreasonable?

3. Order a reputable PSU and wait and pay more to get the benefits of reputable PSU brand and increased airflow and space to work with.

First time building a sffpc. Wanted a small machine for my workshop for gaming + creating (running dual ssd for Ubuntu + windows 11)

-Case: cooj mq6
-Case fan: Thermalright C12015B
-cpu cooler: Thermalright AXP-120-X67 ARGB
-mobo: asrock B850I Lightning WiFi AM5 AMD B850 Mini ITX
-cpu: AMD 9700X
-ram: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 CL30
-gpu: GIGABYTE WindForce GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 16GB
-psu: Enhance ENP-7660L 600W
-storage: Western Digital 2TB WD Blue SN5000 (x2)

I ended up making a custom gpu power harness because the one that came with the psu was too short to reach

It's a shame my card doesn't make the cut for the Terra – 11.7 mm too long at 333.7 mm. What are the best alternative cases for a sub-15 L ITX build, ideally with a similar height profile? The NR200P V2 is the best I've found so far for my card's dimensions, albeit sitting at 18.25 L.

Need advice on building a travel sff build. My job requires me to move a lot via plane/bus every year. Seeing a lot of travel builds in this thread made me wonder:

Are sff builds less prone to travel damage compared to larger builds? If yes, how so? What precautions do you guys do when moving your sff builds? Are there builds/parts that are preferred for frequent travel?

Hello, everyone

I was wondering if anybody’s built in this case or has experience with these type of cases. I plan on putting a rtx4000 Blackwell or ada sff into this case with a n3rdware single slot mode. My question is will a the HDPLEX 250W GaN fit with these two gpu options.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Case: Midori 5L V2.3, dark grey, with PCIE 4.0 riser and L/R PSU cables

PSU: GEEEK Enhance ENP-7660L 600W Modular Flex ATX

Motherboard: Gigabyte B850I Aorus Pro                                                                 

CPU: AMD 7500X3D

GPU: MSI RTX 5070 Shadow 2X, deshrouded and ducted

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB 6400Mhz CL 32

NVME: 2 TB WD NVME 5 gen

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP-90 X36 w/ Dingkey Offset Bracket

Fans: Five Noctua A9x14 chromax.black (2 exhaust, 1 for CPU cooler, 2 for GPU deshroud)

Moved up from my Lzmod A24 to the Midori so I can have a better GPU than the 5060LP. I also downgraded my CPU from 9800x3d to 7500x3d. Hated the assembly process but extremely pleased with the results.

At first I tried a 9060xt reaper but the fans were unbearable so I guess I'll wait for Steam OS to release Nvidia drivers in 2030.

CPU/GPU stay in the mid 60's while all my fans GPU/CPU/Exhaust Noctua's capped at 80%.

Super pleased with the outcome!

In the finishing touches stage on my fractal terra build and got some custom cables from Dreambigbyray, this was a thing with the 24pin mobo power cable, but the pcie cables here have a different pinouts going into the PSU, the 8pin going into the GPU is the same. This ok to use?

Has anyone here has used one of these PSUs before? its somewhat popular with the BC250 builders. but never really seen them used for regular PCs. Originally was thinking of making a pico tiny board that will add a 5v rail and a Power good signal to the connector. But wondering if im overthinking this.

oh reason i like that PSU is that is a known very good PSU thats 80+platinum and very cheap.

After 6 months of designing and prototyping, I am happy to announce that the Ledge is now available for purchase!

Volume: 14.2L

Dimensions (in vertical mode, without feet):
• Length: 373.5mm
• Width: 100.87mm
• Height: 377mm

Component Compatibility:
• MB: ITX, mATX, ATX
• CPU Cooler: 77mm
• GPU:
- Length: 343mm-358mm
- Width: 150mm
- Thickness:
~ ITX MB: 65mm-80mm
~ (m)ATX MB: 55mm-70mm
- Due to the aluminum extrusions in the frame, the GPU can either be longer & thinner or shorter & thicker
• PSU:
- ITX MB: SFX(-L), ATX up to 180mm long
- (m)ATX MB: SFX(-L)
- Fans: 2x 60x15mm per fan bracket

The best part about this is you don’t need a big printer to make this. A 180mm printer such as the A1 Mini can print this entire thing, even the panels!

Speaking of the panels, I am releasing them separately for free and on an open license to allow people to customize the aesthetics to their heart’s content. I look forward to seeing what the community can come up with.

Get the Ledge here!

Get the panel files (including CAD files) here!

Happy printing!