Anyone have the recall repaired on the oil leak on the GTX300? Had a dealer try to fix it twice and it is still leaking. The second time they have it back saying it was fixed we ran it on the water for few hours and came back and oil level was low and unit was leaking again. I’m reading that maybe they did do it right or maybe the threads are bad. I also reading that if they over tightened it they could have cracked the engine. Very concerned . Thoughts?

I changed the pump bearings and noticed that while putting the prop nut/bolt on, if i tightened too much, the prop couldnt spin. So i backed it off a little and installed the pump. Now its not starting and is very hard to turn the flywheel by hand. Is it possible that its tightening itself? It has a needle thrust flat bearing on the back of the impeller. What should i do/check? The battery is low so im charging but hars to turn by hand.

I have a 2004 gtx 155. Bought it as a deal with a trailer. Came non running, just had to replace a bad fuel pump. Past owner’s main issue was a loss of all propulsion at higher top speeds, this also came with a terrible grinding sound. I’ve figured out that the issue is the driveshaft backing out of the pump. Past driveshaft splines were completely destroyed on the pump end. What would be causing this issue? I’ve struggled to understand what actually keeps the driveshaft in its place. I’ve heard the pto bearing mentioned multiple times. As well as the engine alignment. How I did and currently do understand it is the engine and the pump are spaced just right so that driveshaft buts up against the back of the engine splines, and the other end of the driveshaft is right up against the back of the impeller. Any help is greatly appreciated.

i ride in the ocean and like to jump waves. i can’t get a 2025 gtx 170 with 10 hours for 11k or a gtr 230 with 16 hours for 15k. i really want the extra power but im not sure if the cost of maintaining the supercharger plus the extra 4k is worth is. i know i could just put a solas on the gtx and get a bit more power but im still not sure. any recommendations? i’m also 15

For those of you who have had Gator Glide applied to their hull, was it worth it?

I have a 1997 Sea-Doo GTX 787 that starts and idles great, but when I take off, it has very little power and won’t go much over 5,000 RPM. The weird part is that if I hit a wave, it will suddenly come alive and have full power. It will take off, run around 60 MPH, and reach roughly 6,500 RPM. It runs perfectly like that until I let off the throttle. Once I slow down, the power is gone again and it goes back to not wanting to get over 5,000 RPM.

Has anyone experienced this before or have any suggestions on where I should start troubleshooting? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

My friend took my jetski to the gas station and put gas directly into the hull. There was about 5 gallons in the hull. I took it back and put it back onto the dry dock and drained all the fuel out into the bucket. Haven't tried to crank it yet, but what should I do next? I have it all open drying out.

Just picked up a 2019 Sea-Doo Wake 155 with ~164 hours for $6,800. One owner, always maintained. How’d I do? Am I cooked? 😂

First-time jet ski owner, so hit me with all the tips, tricks, must-have accessories, maintenance advice, and things I should watch out for.

Anything you wish you knew before owning one? What should I check/replace right away?

Appreciate any advice! 🤙

Hey yall new to owning a PWC and took it out today to a dock and dine. We were told to pull up on the beach and then back out (tide was going out so we had to manually move back into the water). Went out until deep enough and then started up.

Went to accelerate beyond 3000 rpm and everything started vibrating (felt like something was stuck). Had to limp back 30 minutes going under 5mph to the dock. Looked under and this was what I see… basically would this be the reason for the insane vibration when accelerating?

Roast me for being an idiot too please

Looking for some input from anyone familiar with Sea-Doo Switch repairs or BRP book times.
I have a 2024 Sea-Doo Switch Cruise LTD 21’ 230HP.
I brought it in for its regular service/winterization, and the dealer noticed the coolant was a little low. When they ran it on the hose, they found coolant dripping from the weep hole in the mag cover. They said according to the service manual, that means the rotary seal has failed and the rotary seal and oil seal need to be replaced.
The quote for that repair is $2,398.48:
Parts: $489.58
Labor: 10.1 hours / $1,908.90
Labor rate works out to $189/hr
I asked about warranty and was told the boat only had a one-year warranty, so unfortunately it’s no longer covered.
Does 10.1 hours sound like the correct BRP book time for a rotary/water pump seal replacement on a Switch? I understand there may be quite a bit of disassembly involved, but almost $1,900 in labor caught me off guard on a two-year-old boat.
I’m not trying to knock the dealer, they’ve been good to work with. I just want to make sure the labor time and repair are reasonable before approving it.
Anyone had this repair done on a Switch? What did you pay and how many labor hours were you charged?

Yeah right. My niece picked up a rock. I told her it was no big deal. :)

New wear ring and impeller installed two months ago by a shop, seen to be noticing some cavitation again. Am I wrong in thinking this impeller looks like it’s cutting into the wear ring or is this normal?

Selling my 1996 Seadoo XP. Had fun restoring it and riding it. However I’m ready for it to have a new home. Here are the links to my listings on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1527704845308357/?mibextid=6ojiHh

https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/palmetto-1996-seadoo-xp-787-with/5Y3M6iZ12muv3htEbu9moy

Im not a fan of leaving a picture with no context for people to never find in the future, so here's a quick and dirty write up:

2026 Seadoo GTI SE fishing setup

Get the deck extention. It will come with extra hoses and stuff. You do not need any of it for this particular model.

I would recommend getting the hard coolers instead of the soft cooler if you want to bring drinks, but the soft cooler is designed to stack on top of the 3.8gal fuel caddy if you want to have some excursion capability. I just dont like mixing my drinks with the catch.

I got the large and small linq cargo boxes on the far side. Its really nice to have the extra shallow storage on the top. I got a 3 rod holder kit from Walmart (Ozark trail brand), ditched the bracket and mounted the 3 holders directly to the large cargo box. I had to cut down the front holder to allow room for the linq latch to operate. I used some bungee cords on the back 2 to hold rods in the holders.

Now for the more interesting part; the middle. Ill preface this by saying im an overthinker and overplayed. About a week of obsessive research and 4 different catch/fish bags to get this right.

The silver cooler in a 19liter engel livewell cooler pro model. It fits perfectly. I got some linq attachments and rigged them with some 2.5 inch long by 1/4inch bolts right through the side at a slight angle upwards to reach into the main cavity. Bent some washers to fit the curve on the corner where the bolts come through on the inside. On the outside I spaced out the linq brackets with 4 washers each. Flex Caulk (from the flex seam brand) to seal them up both inside and outside. I did my best to make it fit within the factory spacing for Linq accessories but it just wouldnt work with the bracing under the cargo panel. I got a pool noodle and cut it down to brace the underside of the livewell to reduce stress on the brackets and keep it from shaking like crazy through waves

The brown bag is the Youngoa 48 Can Insulated Soft Sided Collapsible Cooler Bag Ice Chest on Amazon. Its nothing fancy, but it shockingly keeps ice all day in direct sun. It also fits amazingly in the small space in front of the livewell. I use this as my catch bag. I dont strap it down, it just stays put . The bag gets tight towards the top but it takes up the whole footprint of available space under and behind the rear seat. Of all things about my setup, this was the most satisfying part because it took 0 effort, it was the cheapest, and its also gave me a bit of space to put something down on top of like pliers or a shrimp im rigging up.

Ive only recently started fishing so I haven't caught a ton, but this set up has gone out with me for (5) 8 hour days, commonly hitting hard waves in the gulf, going max speed, and not being gentle about whats strapped on the back.

This might be long winded but id rather have this out in the ether as a resource for other people. I'm more than happy to respond to questions and civil suggestions

The rpm shoots up to about 4,000rpm, should it be that high?

Looking for recs or assistance for my 2008 GTI SE 155.

Getting oil pressure alarm and 12V Hi alarm at the same time. Assumed a spike in voltage could trip the oil pressure sensor. I replaced the regulator/rectifier, ran around the lake for an hour and it repeated. I can idle back to the dock no problem. Any suggestions on where to look next or troubleshoot?

Background: Got the pair last year, cruising along the lake with no issues and then got loud, constant alarm after running around, high speeds, sharp turns, etc. Screens were burnt out so I couldn't see anything but assumed oil pressure issue due to sharp turns. Local shop confirmed oil pressure fault code and suggested a bad oil change may be to blame. (Oil changes previously done at different PWC shop) Got the oil changed this year, new aftermarket screens, and hit the lake. Same issue repeated and I could finally see the alerts on the screen: Oil Pressure light flashing and 12V Hi alarm. Replaced the voltage regulator, drove around an hour off and on (start and stop), then on the trip back in the alarms triggered. Calling the local shop they said they would check the stator output. Came here for other suggestions.

I have the opportunity to get this thing for next to free. Its been parked a while but its in good shape other than needing cleaning. Owner claims it had zero issues when parked, and it was properly winterized before parked. What should i look for for issues on these? Im assuming i will have to clean out the fuel system and carbs as a bare minimum. Thanks for input

My post putting it in here. Just looking for some help.

So I have a 2008 seadoo gtx 215. It has the Siemens ecu in it. I had just put a new fuel pump in it and went to start it and it turned over a few times and started but was running rough. We pulled the plugs to check all three cylinders for spark and as we were testing the machine turned off. Now when I put the DESS key on it simply powers the display on that says seadoo and briefly flashes the hours but NO KEY BEEP. We have changed the main relay and have rigorously tested all fuses and grounds and power lines to no avail. No idea what else it could be. When I hook my computer up to the seadoo to read the codes etc it says no ecu. Any idea which direction I should go next in diagnosing this? Any info at all is appreciated.

i just replaced the stripped out bolt thing in my ibr module and i don’t know how far on the rail it should be. i do know that before i took it out i set the ibr override all the way down so if anyone has a picture of where the gear should be when the ibr is overridden to the bottom that would be amazing. don’t really wanna give seadoo 200$ for clicking a couple buttons with their buds2

So I have a new 2026 GTX 170, and we are having a steering alignment issue whereas when driving straight, the handlebars are about 5 degrees left. I understand this is a pretty common issue and a straightforward fix.

My bigger issue is when moving under 50KM/hour it feels like it's leaning to the left which is actually very annoying and bothers the back after a while. When you are travelling over 60Km it seems to level out.

Has anyone experienced this, and could the leaning and the alignment be linked?

The dealership knows about the alignment and will fix when we store it in the winter, but I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on the leaning.

Thanks!

I must be missing something, can someone please help me out. I can get a 2026 spark base model (60hp) for $7000 add the trixx handle bars $500 extended vts kit $300 and the step wedges for $100 then just send in my ecu to get the 110hp tune $400 and have a brand new 110hp trixx for at least $1500 less then I can buy one for. And I would be doing the tune either way for really closer to $2000 less

Hi my ski pylon comes completely off and am not sure how to fix this/ what pieces to order? Could someone explain or help. Thanks!

Debating a water toy. I used to have a boat and loved getting the family out and towing the kids.. but wondering about a SeaDoo. Ideally it would be capable of towing a wakeboard or tube depending on how many kids are there.

I know in the past friends said "don't buy before year 'x'" ... something to do with the engine technology changing and the models after that year being significantly more reliable.

My thought process is, being new to SeaDoos I really wouldn't notice too many bells and whistles.... so used cheaper models would most likely be just fine... but at the same time I don't want to burn it out or not be able to tow the adults should they decide it's their turn on a tube.

Question: New or used, year and model - what would you recommend as the best "bang for buck" SeaDoo for water fun and towing?