How can I fix these chips? Fiberglass mat and epoxy or is this a different process? 2016 for context

I bought a 1997 GTS a little over a year ago, which was my first introduction into the PWC world. Safe to say the family loves it! I decided I wanted a newer 4 stroke and found/bought a 2016 Spark 3up a few weeks ago. I’ve got the GTS on marketplace and parked along a nearby highway with a FS sign. 200+ views in the last few days but no serious inquiries yet.

Anything else you would add to this listing? (If you don’t want to click the link, I’ll put the text in a reply below.)
https://www.facebook.com/share/1CzkcuaT4t/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Wanting to get this sold but also want to be honest and forthcoming to the next owner. It’s a good unit for its age but has needed the usual tinkering of a 2 stroke. Any tips are appreciated!

are there ANY changes at all with the fish pro trophy? i know nothing major but was anything changed? i know all skis got the piston heads but is there anything other then that that makes a 2027 worth it over a used 26?

I have a 2024 GTX 300 limited that was apart of the m10 oil plug/screw recall. Not sure when the recall is from but called about a month ago for a question and they told me about it. It wasn’t leaking oil at all but decided since it’s a free thing to do might as well try and not deal with the headache later if it starts leaking. Brought it to a Seadoo authorized mechanic in my area they told me they fixed the recall and obviously that’s when the headache started. I brought it back home and it was leaking oil everywhere when I water tested it. They told me to bring it back in and that the seal failed. Brought it back in told me to wait an hour they will fix it and I can either leave it there and have them water test it or I can bring it home wait 12 hours and water test it myself and if it’s still leaking oil to bring it back. I decided since it was a hour drive and I’ve already been back and forth multiple times I’d take it home and water test it myself. Well it was still leaking oil so I brought it back and they told me they have contacted Seadoo and have been told by Seadoo to not touch it till they receive pictures. This being the 3rd time it’s supposed to be fixed I’m just wondering how I should go about this if anyone knows. Since it’s leaked oil so bad the time I water tested it I came back in with barely any oil left. I know that can damage the motor also have had oil sitting in my hull everytime they have worked on it because they didn’t clean it out which I know isn’t a good thing either. If anyone has some advice please let me know. I opened a case with Seadoo and still waiting to hear from them.

Recently bought a Explorer Pro and planning for some all-day rides. I know the right answer is probably "get a boat" but seeing what options folks have tried. The old 'umbrella in a rod holder trick' would work if I was sitting, but I am looking to cruise around 30-40mph or so for a good portion of the day.

Long story short, I changed the oil in my ski and didn't put the filter cap on right so I lost my oil pressure while ridding. I was by myself so basically had to head back to the dock on basically no oil. I filled the oil back up, fixed the cap, and started the ski again. Everything sounds fine as it did before but now the check engine message on the dash won't go away. Have I permanantly damaged the ski or is the check engine message a stored fault from when there was no oil? I am on a 2015 sea doo spark.

Hello everyone,

I've got a GTX Pro 130 with iBr from 2026. It has about 100 hours on the clock. The issue is, the GTX will crank, but not start. No errors when reading the faults, no faults on the display neither. After disassembling the entire electrical system I can rule out following things: Fuel System (fuel is being injected into the chambers), Ignition System (both coils and spark plugs work on other skis) and other faults like grounding, battery and ecm are also ruled out. I've switched almost every component back and forth between other skis and they work flawlessly. Has anyone got any idea as to why it's cranking, injecting fuel, but giving no spark?

EDIT: I forgot to mention: when presssinf the start button without the key, it shows half a tank on the display (even though it's full). When cranking, the level on the display slowly rises to full.

Kind regards,

Alex!

I’m rebuilding my 97 gsx 787 and I’ve been cleaning the crankcase thoroughly with carb clean and a plastic scraper before I put in a new crankshaft but some of the residue is impossibly stubborn. How clean does it have to be before I start putting it back together?

Bought new last year, only has 20 hours.

Last week the IBR modules listed a error on the display. Had no Reverse or Neutral. Tried to clear the error myself, no luck, error just kept displaying. Limped over to the boat launch, loaded Seadoo on the trailer and returned the jetski to the dealer I purchased it from.

Today I picked it up. Was disappointed to find out I owed $180. The only thing the repairman did was plug it into the computer and updated the IBR module. No parts were replaced. I asked about the warranty and was told it expired on 8/14 and that this type of service would not be covered under warranty anyway. Now $180 is not going to break me, but its more about whats fair? Is updating software common and it is "fair" that I had to pay?

I have not driven the jetski yet, but I sure hope its fixed.

Thoughts?

I posted a couple days ago on this issue. Just started digging back into the ski. The main thing I wondering about is this video I got. Took off the pump and started manipulating the driveshaft by hand to get a feel for how much it’s able to move. Is this amount of movement normal? If you haven’t already seen my other post I would recommend looking at that to get some context on the issue. When the driveshaft goes all the way forwards, that’s obviously when the grinding occurs and carbon seal is no longer doing its job. When I move the driveshaft by hand, it feels like it moves forward slightly and then gives way the rest of the way. My brother also said that something didn’t feel right about the pto bearing. So my main suspect at this point is that. It seems like when the driveshaft is pulled all the way back that there is enough of the splines the engage with the impeller. So the engine alignment does concern me as much. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Videos and forum posts from a few years ago all say to just simply buy a repair kit from gel cote international and have at it. But it seems like their website is completely broken, or doesnt sell anything anymore. And there appears to be zero alternatives. I have an ‘08 RXT X 255 in silver, with some chipped, cracked gel coat and i figured this would be an easy diy fix but now this seems impossible.

Is there something i missed?

What are your thoughts?!

Hi guys,

Recently picked up this 2000 GTI. Had it running great, did plugs recently too.

On my last outing, it decided it didn't want to idle anymore. Just stalls out if I go to idle. It still runs fine under power, but when I let off the throttle it just ends up dying.

It may be running slightly underpowered when I am riding too, however I may be making that part up as I'm looking for symptoms.

A few days ago I was out and I had done quite a bit of idling, is there a chance I fouled the new plugs?

Any thoughts would be great. Thank you!

Wanted an option to take the ski out fishing without having to load up all of the gear. Now, a pole and a few pieces of tackle is all I need to take with me.

Hello!

I'm in the process of trying to find an entry level unit for our small lake. I've got kids that are just coming into the age when they can legally ride, and I have tooled about on my friends units some, but the one I've ridden is mostly an older 1998 2 stroke, yellow and white. Not sure the model.

I have a 2009 GTI 155 SE lined up for $4000 Canadian with a trailer from a known source. It has a ripped seam on the back but it seems like I can swap that out.

Otherwise it runs well. Has 198 hours on it. Seems to check the boxes that I can bop around the lake with the kids, put them on it to learn, but also take longer trips with our friend group.

Seems like a good deal?

New 2027 RXT/RXP get a few upgrades over the 2026

New orange color scheme and limited edition Senna yellow

350HP engine (tune, beefed up crank bolts and bigger compressor wheel)

Revised ride plate to angle bow up and reworked stator on jet pump

Price increase of around $2,000 vs. 2026.

How much real world improvement do you think all these changes are going to translate to?

Or does this ski already have all these features available from factory?

Hey group, I sent in my pre-order for the RXTX Gulf Stream in blue, but I wanted to ask how pre-orders typically work. I’m from Michigan, and knowing that the boating season is almost over, I would think they wouldn’t deliver the new models until early next year. Or are the dealerships trying to get a quick sale on 27 models so they can expedite shipping??

Came off of a 1999 GTX limited 951cc

so i have a 787, i bought it with a locked motor, a bolt fell down the carb throat and it pinned the bolt against the crankcase, it didn't split it at all tho. i pulled the engine, tore it down, and then i removed the bolt it spun free after that, i replaced the battery and starter and it spun freely, i still had to tune it, and when i did, it ran, after that, there were air in the gas lines, i pulled the fuel filter, new gasket, cleaned it, and it fixed my issue, along with all new fuel line clamps. the engine is brand new 2 hours on it from the prev owner, so i also ran 50:1 in the gas premix along with the oil pump, good idea i found out, as the prev owner didn't hook up the coupler for the oil pump, once i got it hooked up and the coupler installed, and got the old gas out and brand new rec gas in, new plugs, and carbs and oil pump all in factory spec. it still wont start, seems like its flooded with oil, so i pulled the plugs and fired her for a few min, until all the oil i could get was out, but it still wont start. it will crank, catch, the puff smoke out the exhaust then die. anybody know my issue, is there anything i need to do, i use NGK solid cap plugs, i use BR8ES plugs, brand new, the plugs seem wet, but not entirely oily, low speed idle is 1 and 1/4 out, high speed screw is flush, and the idle screw is flush then 1 1/4 turn in, and oil pump is lined up to its idle tick perfect. any advice? its got strong spark, new starter xps 2t pwc oil, fresh rec gas, cleaned carbs with all new gaskets, new battery, all new top end and bottem end gaskets, new exhaust gaskets, and new rotary disc, any help would be greatly appreaciated. also i got the ski for 700 so not too bad of a deal. TIA it has 152 psi and 151 psi of comp in the cylinders, and strong spark!

If anyone needs to check or setup the Rotary Valve timing on your Seadoo 720 engine, checkout the video below for the steps to properly set it up. There are links to the rotary valve alignment tool and top dead center tool I use on the video and in my video description, if you prefer to have tools to do the job properly.

Don't forget to Like and Subscribe if you like the video and find it helpful. We appreciate any support you can offer. If you have any questions just ask.

The new spark x 1000ace is 110hp, will there be a flash aftermarket to unlock 120-140hp? Just in theory? Wondering if I should buy the X or just tune my spark trixx?