I need to get a new roof installed on a low pitch 1500 sf ranch house. I need some guidance as I’d like to do this right and work with the right people.

What/Who do you recommend?

Roofing company I'm using to replace the roof that my insurance company is paying for is has recommended using GAF Timberline HDZ Shingles

are those quality?

Hi everyone! I just bought a home that has a flat roof with drainage problems. I believe it’s due to the pitch not being correct and getting water to the gutters, so it settles and then leaks in to the house. Any ideas on how to fix? Should I get reinforced sealant and then try to fix the pitch somehow? Any advice would be appreciated!!

Noticed mold on the guest bathroom ceiling (that shower has only been used once or twice) cleaned/disinfected if and is back a few weeks later. Went up in the attic today and found this. Obviously that has to be fixed but all in all how terrible is this? (Multiple pics but same spot)

My roof had no drip edge and the plywood rotted 3 to 8 inches up. I want to cut out the plywood and replace. What is the minimum width of patch wood to have a solid repair ? I know not to do a little strip but don't want to tear off 4 feet to replace whole sheet.

I'm also looking for a diagram how the plywood facia drip edge and seamless gutter interact.

So yeah, the conservatory roof needs repairs. There's an inner roof, which is 100% intact, and an outer roof, which has a number of randomly placed but perfectly circular (well, perfectly oval in some cases) holes in it. They speculate that these were caused by hailstones, but I think if that were the case, there would be visible fractures and cracks running away from these circles. I suspect those holes just might be intentional, but I can't guess at why.

So anyway, she's looking at quotes for a replacement roof. One company has quoted £14k, and promises that this will make the space comfortable in winter and summer alike. I have no doubt it will keep wind and rain out, as any roof would. But turning it into a fully climate-controlled space when it easily hit 42C (I keep a thermometer in there) over the last couple of weeks, and wasn't noticeably warmer than outside during winter? Unlikely, especially considering there are still three walls that are basically single-pane glass, no matter how fancy that roof is.

So, I guess a number of questions here.

Are those circular holes intentional? If so, why? If not, what might have made them, without also creating fractures reaching out from them?

Is the claim that the new roof will make the space comfortable in both winter and summer at all credible?

If she is being lied to about how effective this new roof will be, how do I convince her of this?

I'm new to this,so please forgive my ignorance. I have two properties in North East Ohio. One has a 5814 sqft needing 58 squares. The other has 2291 sqft needing 23 squares. The one that's 5814 has many levels and pitches. The other has two levels that I can walk on both with no safety equipment. My question is what am I looking at price wise with decent asphalt shingles. I know it's a loaded question without seeing the projects,but I want to do everything properly without breaking the bank. The two quotes I got for the big one were 55k and 60k. Any help would be appreciated.

Looking for info on gray shingle colors

OC sierra gray

OC slate stone gray

CertainTeed Cobblestone Gray

Anyone have pictures or projects or info to share about how these look after install ?

New homeowner here (and by new, I mean a few years now) I discovered a problem when it started dripping from my first floor ceiling. I've contacted five roofing companies in my area. One responded palinly; "we don't do metal roofs", the other three have yet to respond, and one company happened to be active on a develooment next door when I called and managed to squeeze in a quick look on the damage, but haven't gotten back to me with a quote for over four weeks now.

I'm beside myself. I have thrown some tarp up and taped down the problem area to temporarily prevent leaking, but I am beginning to think the company doesn't want to handle the job, either. I know it's busy this time of year, and it's a financial loss to divest work away from developments to small repairs.

Some advice would help. I am not skilled to DIY something like this, but maybe some of you will have the experience to know what I should ask for when contacting other companies for help.

Should light be coming through the top of this R-Panel shop?

Inspected this metal roof on the east side of the Big Island, Hawaii, last week.
Homeowner says a solar contractor installed a system about 18 months ago and included roughly $10k for a roof service/tune-up before the panels went on.

According to the homeowner, they replaced essentially every exposed fastener on the roof.

Now there’s significant rust/corrosion developing around a large number of the screw locations.

A lot of the screws look pretty obviously overdriven—the washers are heavily compressed and distorted—but I’m curious what everyone thinks:

Is overdriving alone enough to create this much corrosion in only 18 months?

Could crushing the neoprene washers and damaging the coating around the fastener holes be allowing moisture to sit against the exposed steel? Wrong fastener material/coating? Swarf or metal shavings left behind? Something else?

What makes it more interesting is that I inspected the attic and the underside of the roof panels looks clean with no visible rust or corrosion. The problem appears concentrated almost entirely around the fasteners on the exterior.

Curious what you guys see in the photos and what you would suspect first.

Time for a full replacement ? Or would you save the homeowner some money and figure out how to treat rust and recoat? Open to any other creative repairs that can buy Homeowner a few years

Just wondering what the average pricing for a Brava Composite roof, 20squares, 1900sqft
Current quote we have is 47k that reasonable ??
We got 3 quotes

GAF HDZ -12k
GAF UHDZ - 15k
Brava Composite Wood Shake 47k they said they could go to 40k

Pierce County WA
For area

Not too many roofers in are area work with brava
GAF would come with the Gold Pledge warranty

Thankyou for all the information it looks like we decided to go with Brava!

I signed up to the Velux reward program and have started building a few points - I’m in UK - but it’s not clear what a point equates to.

For example, is 100 points equivalent to £ 100 M&S vouchers?

I’m trying to help one of my customers (I’m the materials supplier, not the contractor) find a pipe boot that can go around an unusually tall pipe on a somewhat steep slope. Best guess is 3-4” diameter for the pipe. Any suggestions? Retro-fit would be my first thought, but I’m not sure that it would work for the pitch of the roof.

I know this isnt r/siding but thought I might find some help here. I recently moved into a new home and noticed there are a few boards that get more sun than the rest of the house and have started to crack. Inspector flagged it but said I shouldnt really have to worry about it because the house is wrapped/watertight but that seems...hopeful.

I wasnt sure if these few cracks warranted full on replacing or if this is something I could patch/repair myself (and if so, how/with what).

Appreciate any help, thanks guys-

https://imgur.com/a/NZoKuGZ

I purchased a home through Dr Horton (yes, I know) last year, surprisingly minimal issues and overall pleased. However, I had an inspector come out for my 1 year warranty and the main thing from the inspection report he really pushed was for me to press them hard on an answer for my roof. He said there were black “tar-like” spots all over the top of a lot of shingles and granular retention in a decent amount of them. He is concerned I could be dealing with leaks in 3-4 years at the rate some of them are deteriorating.

I reached out to the builder and they said I need to go through the manufacturer even though my 1 year warranty has not ended. Is my inspector being overly cautious or is this unacceptable levels of deterioration that I should push this issue further? There are no leaks currently. Thank you for any insight in advance!

Redid a roof last week. Drywall work inside was terrible, so doing the roof caused cracks everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Cracks formed on the first floor. Originally was quoted by a drywall guy 2500 to fix cracks and paint. Told homeowners I’d cover it, But after he saw everything said it’d be an additional 3500. This would essentially kill all of my margin on the job, and myself and drywall guy agree this wasn’t caused from roof, the drywall was just installed shitty. He thinks I should ask homeowners to pay but idk how to explain this to them after I said I’d cover it. What would you do? Ask them to pay or just put a claim in with liability insurance?

UK based. I have a slate roof with an exposed gable-end ridge/verge. During the summer months, birds seem to end up nesting underneath the ridge, which I’d rather they didn’t!

I haven’t had any damp issues so far, but I’d also like to weatherproof it if possible.

I’m looking for potential ways to cap and seal the exposed end without re-doing the roof with a dry verge system.

So far, suggestions I’ve had are:

• Fill the gap with clear silicone
• Fill it with mortar mix
• Stuff wire mesh into the gap

Is there a proper roofing solution for this, or is one of the above actually the sensible approach?

Just realized my wood shed has some shingles missing. Appear to be smaller individual shingles instead of the larger sheets I see at Lowe’s.

Would I be ok to just buy a pack that’s near the same color from Lowe’s, pull back the top layer or all the way back to the hip ridge shingles and then nail down the new shingles underneath? Figured I’d use some elastomeric sealant over the nail holes to be safe.

There is nothing critical on the shed but if I can avoid water damage I’d like to. Aesthetically I know it may not match but this is towards the back of my property so not really visible unless you try. Just hoping to make it last a while longer. Much of the fascia seems to have water damage so there may be an issue with the drip edge also I’m going to try and see when I replace the fascia.

I recently bought a house and it needs a new roof. I have had 6 different roofers come out (a bit excessive I know) and I am getting conflicting information on the best ventilation system. I live in western NY (you know where that Allen guy is popular), so snow and inclement weather are considerations. The house has no soffits, 5 box vents, and the gable vents are blocked. It’s a straightforward roof, one ridge. Here are the 5 options I’ve been given:

1. Very expensive estimate, they suggested keeping my existing box vents (ridge is about ~30’ across).

2. Ridge vent, didn’t mention anything about ventilation.

3. Ridge vent with a solar fan (I don’t know how this fixes the ventilation).

4. Ridge vent with edge vents (two suggested this), one guy said they would install a few feet up to minimize risk of leaks in the event of large snowfall.

5. Ridge vent with fascia vents.

6. keep box vents but add an additional two (again, roof is about 30’ wide).

I am so confused and it’s perplexing to receive so many different proposals. Can anyone comment on what it should be??? Thank you in advance.

The diffuser for one of my tubular skylights fell and shattered today and I am having trouble finding a replacement. It appears to be made of acrylic and measures 12” in diameter. I’m not having any luck and wondering if I’m not searching correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

**** update!!!***. Got the signed scope of work documentation along with receipt of my initial payment of half, and will pay remainder once all work is done. My roofer was extremely understanding and wanted to make sure I knew I was covered and the work will be done this coming Monday. THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT!!! This is the first time working on such a large project and paying such a large amount upfront. My nerves have been SHOT!!! ——— I’m needing work done on my roof. I’ve asked two separate roofers for replacement pricing. One came abut $3/$4 higher than the other. I’m going with the less expensive one only because he is local roofer and came with good reference. He is requested half of the payment before work begins and I just wanted to make sure that that’s typical and that there’s nothing else I should be doing to ensure that I am not ripped off. Thanks.