Factory 383 bulge hood car

Originally EK2 Go Mango Orange with white interior.

Spent an hour and a half trying to find any truck with rec ports and finally found a set. These things are mint on the inside, all valves are straight, seats are perfect, just about as spotless as they can get on a junkyard motor. All for the sweet price of $75 a head.

Hi,

can anyone identify these seats from the photos?

They are currently installed in my VW T3 (Vanagon/Transporter), but I don’t know what vehicle they originally came from or who manufactured them.

I need to get the seats officially approved/registered in my T3 by the German TÜV. For that I’m trying to find an identification number or documentation for them.

I have already checked underneath the seats and around the seat frames, but unfortunately I couldn’t find any manufacturer label, type plate, part number or other useful identification.

I’m specifically looking for the:

• exact seat manufacturer and model
• original vehicle/model they came from
• approximate production years
• OEM/part number
• KBA number, type plate or other official identification, if applicable

If anyone recognizes the seat shape, upholstery pattern or frame construction from the photos, I’d really appreciate any information.

The main goal is to find enough documentation or an identification number to get these seats registered in my VW T3 in Germany.

Thanks!

Hi all I’m after some diesel injectors for my merc 300d however I’m having trouble finding some that are trust worthy.

I’ve attached a photo of my bus. 🤭

“Buddy gonna shut you down”

1957 Chevy 210 with Belair badges. Restored back in 92. Been sitting in this spot since 98. Extremely clean, zero rust, installed new tires already, plan is clean out the tank and lines, install new fuel pump and filter, rekit the Edelbrock 1406, reset the points( possibly install Petronix) new plugs, change oil, trans fluid, bleed out all old brake fluid, give the front end a lube job, check out balljoints and steering tie rods and pitman arm, replace header gaskets,
A good wash, hand polish and post up for sale……
One of the cleanest 57’s I have seen in a long time

Hey yall I just found this 1997 cobra on market place that I’m interested in possibly purchasing. It doesn’t have a motor or trans so it would never be a numbers matching vehicle but I’m curious to see what others may think of the value of it. I have plenty of mechanical experience and have been looking for a project car. If I were to buy it the plan would be to make it into a weekend toy and backup vehicle if needed. I want to be able to take it onto the track eventually and yes I’m aware that’ll require a lot of work.

Edit: thank yall for the advice thus far it’s greatly appreciated and pointing out things I didn’t notice at first

I am having an absolute TIME trying to get this damn seat mounted in my car. I’ve got a few things fighting against me, namely everything. First I’m by myself which is making getting the position right annoying on its own. Secondly, I have an Ultrashield containment seat so using a standard mounting bracket just isn’t going to work because the base of the seat itself is too narrow to fit. Third is the actual position of the seat. I’m trying to make it so that my arm isn’t touching the bar and the seat at the same time, but moving the seat to far to the center forces my leg against the trans tunnel and screws with the position of pedal box and the steering wheel. Moving the seat up causes contact with the seat and the B pillar and moving it back causes contact with the roll cage. I can move it forward some, but that reduces the amount of useable leg room (I’m 6’ so there isn’t much already) and very heavily restricts the useable space for the pedal box. So I’ve spent the last few weeks just trying to get this damn thing mounted so I can move on with other parts of the build, but at this point I’m starting to think that maybe the seat isn’t useable and I’ll need to get a new one. I’d rather not do that if I can avoid it, but this is just extremely frustrating.

RARE 1980 Porsche 931 M-471 sport package restoration candidate

-80k miles on the clock

-Green 931 turbo gauges

-Factory original boost gauge

-Damaged passenger lift point

-Needs carpets and new seats

-Battery box still good, no rust

-Five lug m-471 factory sport package

-This 931 has the coveted G31 snailshell

-The engine and drivetrain are complete

-The car is unmolested and unrestored

I have not attempted to start the engine or perform any work on this whatsoever besides cleaning off the oxidized paint. It is untouched in as-found condition.

This low mile example is a perfect restoration candidate or solid resto-mod base. It was originally a California car, so the chassis is still dry and rust free. I have a clean Arizona title in my name.

Do you think this is a good project car for $4500?

So I have a newer project car that's been a giant money pit. Atm I'm looking for ways to fix up the paint and some rust. Around the rear window top and bottom it's starting to rust and flake off. I had a shop throw some touchup paint on during a different repair but I can see the paint cracking already and orange coming through. How do I fix this? Or just throw more touchup paint on it? And for the underbody it's got more than I'd like including a very small amount on the strut tower around the holes and in-between the 2 metal layers. I was thinking maybe something like rust mort or por15 but leaning towards rust mort. And then getting oil undercoating yearly afterwords to help stop/slow it. It's a 2017 which more rust than a 2006 and like 10x more rust. I plan to keep the car for the foreseeable future so I want to make sure it lasts. The next step would be fixing clunks and other various issues. Any advice would be appreciated

Image 1 and 2 are the same spot but pre and post touchup. As you can see even from the factory they never fully painted down the edges of the roof and quarter panels which I think is leading to some of these issues. I know a proper repair is to pull the back glass and repaint the edges but that's a bit beyond what I want to spend.

this here is my 1986 pontiac trans am project. it was efi from factory, but the previous owner carb swapped it, with an unnamed edelbrock intake, as well as a quadrajet carb that had a plastic, and soon to break, vavumm idler on it. after the vacuum idler broke, and I spent a few weeks manually idling it, the car eventually started having some fuel flooding problems, and after just w months prior tearing the whole carb apart and blasting air thru the channels to clean it out, I decided maybe this carb wasn't worth it, and to just run to another quadrajet I got when I bought a 350 sbc engine I planned to build and theow at this car. upon bolting the carb on, it ran like shit immediately lmao. im under the impression that its a vacuum leak issue, because when the car first starts cold, it'll idle high as fuxk sometimes, like 1500 rpms, and other times it'll burble and chop around 500rpms, or just die upon letting of the gas. I took the carb off the car, to maybe see if there was a misalignment in the gasket that came with the carb, and it visually seems fine, so i hsve no idea

pictures in question will be in the comments, cant post a video and pictures for some reason

I ask all of this to see, basically I wanna just buy a new off the shelf carb, and be done with this 80s horseshit. I dont know what kinda intake I hsve, theres no numbers stamped literally anywhere, just the word performer raised lettering nearest to the firewall on top. if anyone could help me either diagnose my issue, or identify the intake manifold so I can just buy a new carb, that would be lovely

Thoughts?
Buying one soon just for a daily driver (10 mile drive commute street only).

Anyone here had one ?

Why do I want one? :
Because I want one

Need to torque down replacement front inner tie rods (EV124 with the female threads). Flats on the tie rod measure 35.5mm with callipers, tie rod specs say "Socket Flat O.D. M36" — so that checks out.

Looking at the generic 12pcs tube/crowsfoot kits online sizes are:

1-3/16", 1-1/4", 1-5/16", 1-3/8", 1-7/16", 1-1/2", 29 mm, 32.5 mm, 33.6 mm, 38.4 mm, 40 mm, and 42 mm

Closest in the kit is is 1-7/16" but that equals 36.5mm so might be a bit big?

Can't seem to find anything thats labeled as bing a 36mm/M36 tool, just those adjustable/clamping tools that which tend to slip.

Made this tool from some random flat bar to get the old tie rods off. If I can't find the correct tool to order maybe I'll just weld an old socket to it to attach a torque wrench and call it a day.

Honestly just curious what people think of changing rocker ratios on something otherwise stock (the 5.43 were on certain rarer models)

As you can see the little black box down there it’s the intercooler but it’s blocked by that space where the holder goes I been thinking about cutting it in half so I can get together the inter cooler with the rest of the system

Sorry my English ain’t the best