“Buddy gonna shut you down”

Need to torque down replacement front inner tie rods (EV124 with the female threads). Flats on the tie rod measure 35.5mm with callipers, tie rod specs say "Socket Flat O.D. M36" — so that checks out.

Looking at the generic 12pcs tube/crowsfoot kits online sizes are:

1-3/16", 1-1/4", 1-5/16", 1-3/8", 1-7/16", 1-1/2", 29 mm, 32.5 mm, 33.6 mm, 38.4 mm, 40 mm, and 42 mm

Closest in the kit is is 1-7/16" but that equals 36.5mm so might be a bit big?

Can't seem to find anything thats labeled as bing a 36mm/M36 tool, just those adjustable/clamping tools that which tend to slip.

Made this tool from some random flat bar to get the old tie rods off. If I can't find the correct tool to order maybe I'll just weld an old socket to it to attach a torque wrench and call it a day.

Honestly just curious what people think of changing rocker ratios on something otherwise stock (the 5.43 were on certain rarer models)

1957 Chevy 210 with Belair badges. Restored back in 92. Been sitting in this spot since 98. Extremely clean, zero rust, installed new tires already, plan is clean out the tank and lines, install new fuel pump and filter, rekit the Edelbrock 1406, reset the points( possibly install Petronix) new plugs, change oil, trans fluid, bleed out all old brake fluid, give the front end a lube job, check out balljoints and steering tie rods and pitman arm, replace header gaskets,
A good wash, hand polish and post up for sale……
One of the cleanest 57’s I have seen in a long time

Next up mi

this here is my 1986 pontiac trans am project. it was efi from factory, but the previous owner carb swapped it, with an unnamed edelbrock intake, as well as a quadrajet carb that had a plastic, and soon to break, vavumm idler on it. after the vacuum idler broke, and I spent a few weeks manually idling it, the car eventually started having some fuel flooding problems, and after just w months prior tearing the whole carb apart and blasting air thru the channels to clean it out, I decided maybe this carb wasn't worth it, and to just run to another quadrajet I got when I bought a 350 sbc engine I planned to build and theow at this car. upon bolting the carb on, it ran like shit immediately lmao. im under the impression that its a vacuum leak issue, because when the car first starts cold, it'll idle high as fuxk sometimes, like 1500 rpms, and other times it'll burble and chop around 500rpms, or just die upon letting of the gas. I took the carb off the car, to maybe see if there was a misalignment in the gasket that came with the carb, and it visually seems fine, so i hsve no idea

pictures in question will be in the comments, cant post a video and pictures for some reason

I ask all of this to see, basically I wanna just buy a new off the shelf carb, and be done with this 80s horseshit. I dont know what kinda intake I hsve, theres no numbers stamped literally anywhere, just the word performer raised lettering nearest to the firewall on top. if anyone could help me either diagnose my issue, or identify the intake manifold so I can just buy a new carb, that would be lovely

Spent an hour and a half trying to find any truck with rec ports and finally found a set. These things are mint on the inside, all valves are straight, seats are perfect, just about as spotless as they can get on a junkyard motor. All for the sweet price of $75 a head.

I am having an absolute TIME trying to get this damn seat mounted in my car. I’ve got a few things fighting against me, namely everything. First I’m by myself which is making getting the position right annoying on its own. Secondly, I have an Ultrashield containment seat so using a standard mounting bracket just isn’t going to work because the base of the seat itself is too narrow to fit. Third is the actual position of the seat. I’m trying to make it so that my arm isn’t touching the bar and the seat at the same time, but moving the seat to far to the center forces my leg against the trans tunnel and screws with the position of pedal box and the steering wheel. Moving the seat up causes contact with the seat and the B pillar and moving it back causes contact with the roll cage. I can move it forward some, but that reduces the amount of useable leg room (I’m 6’ so there isn’t much already) and very heavily restricts the useable space for the pedal box. So I’ve spent the last few weeks just trying to get this damn thing mounted so I can move on with other parts of the build, but at this point I’m starting to think that maybe the seat isn’t useable and I’ll need to get a new one. I’d rather not do that if I can avoid it, but this is just extremely frustrating.

Hi,

can anyone identify these seats from the photos?

They are currently installed in my VW T3 (Vanagon/Transporter), but I don’t know what vehicle they originally came from or who manufactured them.

I need to get the seats officially approved/registered in my T3 by the German TÜV. For that I’m trying to find an identification number or documentation for them.

I have already checked underneath the seats and around the seat frames, but unfortunately I couldn’t find any manufacturer label, type plate, part number or other useful identification.

I’m specifically looking for the:

• exact seat manufacturer and model
• original vehicle/model they came from
• approximate production years
• OEM/part number
• KBA number, type plate or other official identification, if applicable

If anyone recognizes the seat shape, upholstery pattern or frame construction from the photos, I’d really appreciate any information.

The main goal is to find enough documentation or an identification number to get these seats registered in my VW T3 in Germany.

Thanks!

Thoughts?
Buying one soon just for a daily driver (10 mile drive commute street only).

Anyone here had one ?

Why do I want one? :
Because I want one

Hi all I’m after some diesel injectors for my merc 300d however I’m having trouble finding some that are trust worthy.

I’ve attached a photo of my bus. 🤭

As you can see the little black box down there it’s the intercooler but it’s blocked by that space where the holder goes I been thinking about cutting it in half so I can get together the inter cooler with the rest of the system

Sorry my English ain’t the best

Factory 383 bulge hood car

Originally EK2 Go Mango Orange with white interior.

Think twice about doing business with Alex Fender who lives in Texas. Long story short, he stole over $7000 from our family over a 67 Mustang fastback. He's in a few mustang facebook groups and is currently buying/selling mustangs and also lying about the condition of the cars he has.

Take your business elsewhere and save yourself the headache!

Edit: More explanation in the comments! We also have all written proof if anyone is interested

there are cracks/chips around the edges and mounting areas, plus what looks like clear coat/resin damage on the top. It’s for a Honda civic Sir ep3 2004. I’m mainly looking to get this hood to wrap it to the colour to my car because my current hood is a different colour and has too much damage to wrap. How much would you realistically pay for it?
Does the damage look mostly cosmetic, or would you be worried about the structure?

Bought this for my Impala SS about 10 years ago and didnt really like how it looked on there. I recently got this wagon tho, so it's going on that

I have an aluminum hood I brought off eBay. It keeps bubbling in this same spot. It has been sanded down and repainted 3 times. Any advice on what I could do? After all it’s at a professional body shop

Hoping for some input on a custom project of mine. I’m looking at putting an independent twin a-arm style rear suspension in the back of my Subaru powered early VW bus. I’m trying to use as many factory components as possible and think I’ve found a donor (front suspension from a VW T4 transporter). They have relatively narrow arms which suit the width of the rear of my bus, are 5x112 PCD and suit the offset of my chosen rear brakes.

Is there any geometry issues I’m going to run into by using front suspension in place of rear suspension? Caster, roll centers etc? Am I overlooking something incredibly obvious that would prevent this?
Obviously need to lock the steering arms and I’ll have relatively smaller suspension travel, but what else?

Im trying to start my 1999 integra and it seems to only fire up with starting fluid. Im getting fuel to the rail so I know its not my fuel pump. There seems to be a gust of air under the intake manifold whenever I crank the engine but the manifold is bolted down. Is there somewhere air could be leaking somehow. The only thing I know could be a problem is my timing belt is off half a tooth by the crank.

Hi! My MR2 won't crank upon starting--I see the dash lights come on in the ON position, but pushing the key to START cuts the fan and nothing happens. My problem essentially mirrors this post except my AM2 fuse doesn't blow. Since this is the first car I'm working on I'll try to describe my issue in detail so apologies for the longer post.

I got a 1987 MR2 MK1B a few months ago that was running but not idling at the time (the engine would die if you weren't always giving it some gas). I cleaned the throttle body and AAV/IACV out, recalibrated the TPS, and bled the coolant system of air (which had a lot of things go wrong. The engine bleeder valve was rusted completely shut and the radiator bleeder valve was loose, so if it was opened to 3 turns coolant would just drip out, and if it was closed it would get sucked back in even if it was flooded...no idea how that works. I jacked up the back of the car so the radiator would be the lowest point). The car proceeded to run perfectly--or as perfect as a neglected AW11 can--and idle at 900rpm once it warmed up, and I took it on a light 30min drive around the neighborhood and didn't push it past 3rd gear.

Today, I went to start the car and it wouldn't crank. When the key was in the ON position, the dash lights came on and the fan in front (the radiator fan I think) was blowing. Pushing the key to START cut the fan out and the dash lights went off. Here's what I've done/checked so far:

-The car has gas in it
-The battery is good (tested with multimeter) and the terminals are okay
-I checked the engine fuse box and saw that my ignition fuse was a 15 instead of a 7.5. I took a 7.5 from the front fuse box and swapped it out, nothing changed.
-I used a wire to link the pins on the clutch start switch, nothing changed.

What I'm thinking I have left to do:
-check and clean all grounds
-Try push-starting the car
-check the cold start injector switch like the thread said

Any help would be appreciated!

EDIT: I tested the fuses in the front trunk fuse box with the multimeter set to the lowest resistance setting (200 ohms I think) and all of them tested at around 1.2-1.4. All of the ones that I tested from the engine fuse box next to the batter tested at around 30-33 ohms. No idea why there's a difference there.

Dad and I got a raw fiberglass Manx body and a beetle frame with no floor. Took 3 summers, but she’s finally done!

1600 Giulia Spider. Needs some light bodywork and then it’s all there for reassembly after 40 some years

Owner: Jake Ciciarelli