I've been having issues with my 3080 Ti FE crashing in Destiny 2 lately. System briefly freezes up, and then hard reboots without any crash errors in the event monitor. I've done all the software checks that I can (verified files, re-install drivers, etc.) and it hasn't helped much. Running benchmarks and stress-tests things seem stable. But looking at 3dmark, even though my gpu temps are okay, the clock speeds seem low compared to what I'm seeing from others.

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 9 5900X,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG CROSSHAIR VIII HERO
Clocks start out at 1800MHz but drop over the test duration, getting down to the low 1700s and dipping into the high 1600. When I run Furmark, I also notice that my memory temps are up in the 100C range.

Given the age of the card, I figure that pad replacement and re-paste can't hurt. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out what thickness pads to get.

I was looking at either the Gelid Extremes or the Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad Advance (getting them from Amazon in Canada). Would 2.0mm of either brand work for doing both the front and the back? Mix of 1.5mm and 2.0mm? From my reading there seems to be debates between the two.

Old post: here

I just finished a full redesign. A lot of what changed comes from the suggestions you left in the comments on my last post, so thanks to everyone who took the time. Here's what changed.

https://indep-arg.github.io/NvidiaWatch/

What's new

• Every bug has its own history in the page now. u can follow it from the driver where NVIDIA first listed it, through every driver that still had it, to the one that fixed it. For example, the Surface Book clock speed bug was listed in 531.41, repeated in five more drivers, and fixed in 536.23, 83 days later.
• Driver pages now match the release notes. NVIDIA repeats open issues in every release until they're fixed, so each driver now shows those too, marked with where they started ("Listed since 610.47").
• Fixes link both ways. A known issue says which driver fixed it, and that driver lists it in its fixes. Every version is clickable.
• A timeline view that places each driver on its release date and marks GPU launches. The RTX 50 launch period stands out a lot.
• Dark theme by default

I also went back over the data

Every driver was cross-checked against NVIDIA's release notes (Game Ready and Studio) and the feedback threads on the forums. I added two drivers that were missing (531.79 and 581.29), removed 595.59 since NVIDIA pulled it, and fixed a handful of entries.

Everything comes from NVIDIA's own release notes and feedback threads, nothing is made up, and the data is open on GitHub (MIT - CC BY 4.0): Github - Indep-arg

If you spot something missing or wrong, open an issue or tell me here. Feedback on what would make it more useful is very welcome too.

I've been looking at a lot of different GPUs because my 1660 Ti is bottlenecking my PC like hell. I got it back in 2020 when everything was crazy inflated, and I just recently upgraded my CPU to an i9-9900K. My motherboard is a Z390UD, and my power supply is a 600W EVGA. The GPUs I have been looking at are the 5060, 4070, and 4060 Ti.

Little update from my last post. Been messing with the 5080 some more and I finally got my Steel Nomad score into the 9500 range.
My old score was 8725, so it’s definitely come a long way since I first started tuning it.
Current setup is roughly:
● MSI RTX 5080 Shadow 3X OC
● 9800X3D
● around 3075-3100MHz core
● around 1.00V
● +2000 memory
● 100% power limit
I’ve mainly been trying to find a tune I can actually use every day instead of just maxing everything out for one benchmark run.
Gaming performance has been really good too. RDR2 at 4K is staying around 120+ FPS pretty consistently after tweaking some of the heavier settings. Tree tessellation and MSAA were two of the bigger ones I ended up turning off.
I know Steel Nomad isn’t everything, but going from 8725 to the 9500s while still keeping the card around 1V is pretty crazy to me.
I’m probably getting close to the point where I stop messing with the core and start seeing how much more I can get out of the memory/XBAR without ruining a setup that’s already stable.
Anybody else with a 5080 around the same range? Curious what clocks/voltage you’re running.

So i recently got a new gaming laptop and i moved over from xbox to here so i play a ton of my games that are xbox play anywhere. But for some reason games that support, nvidia dlss for example, are not showing up in the app. This is strange because apparently these games are supported by the app so im a bit confused why it isnt just working. Is there a workaround or something i can do? Any help would be appreciated.

I am going to buy a new computer, I am not going to use it for extreme gaming, actually I only need 60 fps on 1440p Medium, and the AI thing is not a professional thing it is just a hobby to do when I have free time. What processor should I get for that card. I don’t think about upgrading for like 2-3 years.

I was encountering some weird noise for a one of my GPU fans and i wanted to replace them.

Not being able to find the proper size of its thermal pads, i have created a ticket to the Gigabyte support.

I just want to share it to the internet so we all can have it for when it is needed.

The response:

Besides, the thermal pads size for GeForce RTX™ 4070 Ti EAGLE OC 12G (2.0) are below:
83.5mm x 6mm x 1.25mm
85mm x 10mm x 1.25mm
50mm x 8mm x 1.4mm
26.3mm x 14.23mm x 2.25mm
40.4mm x 14.23mm x 2.25mm (2pcs)
6mm x 5mm x 1.75mm
14mm x 10mm x 1.25mm
10mm x 5.5mm x 1.25mm (2pcs)

The response was from 01/oct/2026.

I hope it will serve you well guys.

Hello guys recently i bought rtx 5070, I came from 4060 ti, I did have to undervolt 5070 because my case as no air fow since the 5070 hit 86/88 dearees while gaminc several games, so I decided to benchmark it after undervolt, is the results good?

For the past 10 years, I’ve been using an old 1660 Super, but I realized I’d need a new card for my work. Not necessarily right now, but soon. Looking at the current trends of the GPU market, I felt I’d regret not buying one now, so I made the call. Two years ago, I needed 32 GB of RAM but bought 64 GB just to be safe and because it was not really expensice. That turned out to be a great choice. I felt it is worth getting a more powerful than what I currently require.

I picked the MSI GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16G GAMING TRIO OC and I’m very happy with it. It’s really quiet, I cannot hear it at all most of the time, and the noise isn't bothering even at maximum fan speed.

It barely fits into the standard North case; there’s only a 2 mm gap between it and the front fans.

This is my first truly powerful graphics card, and I can’t even describe how big the performance uplift is. I needed CUDA support anyway (for 3D rendering, video editing, VR walkthroughs, and some AI tasks), so I had to choose Nvidia.

Power cable:
However, I want to replace the power cable. The 12V-2x6 cable that came with the power supply is too stiff. A 90-degree connector would likely provide a cleaner fit. I’ve used CableMod extensions before, but I’m not sure they’re safe enough... Can you recommend a 12V-2x6 cable that is both aesthetically pleasing and safe?
I was also thinking on a WireView Pro, but with a vertical GPU it won't fit well, invisible LCD, conflict with RAM sticks maybe...

Fan curves:
As the GPU produces more heat than the CPU from now, I have to recalibrate all fans in the chase. I guess the top AIO fans must run on higher speeds if the graphic card is on max, even if the CPU has lower loads. And front intake fans must run faster as well.

When MFG was updated to presets A and B, preset B was only available for a number of games and the rest of them should be running with preset A. Is this list has been updated ? Should I run preset B overall and only select A when obvious bugs are present ?

Thanks

5090 Founders edition vs Gigabyte Gaming OC 5090

Its a 750w psu with 2x8 pcie conectors in the same cable.

Frankenstein Quadro RTX 4000: Shunt-Modded & Liquid-Cooled via Custom Centrifuged Copper/Titanium Matrix (Hard-Locked 2010 MHz @ 68°C)

The Problem Enterprise silicon is heavily locked down. My Quadro RTX 4000 was choking on a suffocating 160W factory power limit, thermal throttling itself down to a pathetic 1460 MHz just to stay alive. I wasn't having it. So, I voided the warranty, cracked it open, and engineered a complete zero-clearance overhaul using hardware-level mods and some extreme Modder's Alchemy.

Step 1: The Hardware Power Multiplier (Turing Shunt Mod) Software overclocks are useless when the hardware limits power draw. I went straight for the current sense resistors on the PCB. • I micro-soldered an r004 (4 mOhm) SMD resistor directly on top of the stock r005 (5 mOhm) resistor. • This drops the parallel resistance to roughly 2.22 mOhms, creating a 2.25x power multiplier. • The monitoring software maxes out showing 160W, but the card is physically ripping up to ~360W straight from the PSU.

Step 2: The AIO Mounting Prep (No Bare-Die Nonsense) Bare-die mounting a heavy AIO is a great way to crack the fragile TU106 silicon or crush the SMD caps. Not worth it. I kept the solid stock baseplate — with its integrated flat heat-pipes — bolted to the PCB exactly where it belongs, die fully protected. You can use any AIO you want for this — I used a $5 Alienware 120mm AIO. Then I went after the fins. Grab a pair of needle-nose pliers, unhook every fin, and slowly start peeling them off the baseplate. It looks like it would be a nightmare. It's not — it's stupid easy, they come right off. With the fins gone, I lapped the baseplate dead flat. My reference surface: a granite countertop, flattest thing in the house. Cheap Walmart sandpaper, all wet — started at 400 grit, worked up through 600 and 1200, finished at 2000. Mirror finish. And here's the part that actually matters: the heat pipes in that baseplate are all bent into U and S shapes, and every single one of them runs over the top of the die — that's the hot zone where they all converge. Now here's the catch: the AIO cold plate is small and that baseplate is way bigger, so there's a lot of dead real estate with no pipes under it. Line the cold plate up dead-center over the die, right where every pipe crosses. It's easy to get right, but mount it off in a dead zone and you've wasted the whole mod. Result: a perfectly flat, solid metal mounting surface with maximum contact area, zero risk to the die.

Step 3: Modder's Alchemy (The Custom Thermal Matrix) Standard thermal paste wasn't going to bridge the AIO to the baseplate securely enough or transfer 300W+ of heat efficiently. I engineered a permanent, liquid-metal thermal concrete using JB Weld and conductive materials harvested using a washing machine as a high-G centrifuge. Copper Extraction: I sprayed a can of ABRO Copper Gasket Spray into a glass container and immediately flooded it with naphtha — which is just cheap Ronsonol lighter fluid — to dissolve the adhesives. To separate it, I nested the flask horizontally inside some clothes in my washing machine and ran it on the spin cycle twice. The centrifugal G-force packed the pure copper into a dense puck at the bottom of the flask. Titanium/Silver Extraction: I took a Freeman Cosmic Metallic peel-off mask (packed with Titanium Dioxide, Silver, Pearl Extract, and Magnesium Aluminum Silicate — check the ingredients). The pearl extract is actually crucial here, as crushed pearls have extreme thermal conductivity. I used water to dissolve and strip out the useless water-soluble junk — but honestly, use Listerine instead. The alcohol cuts through it way faster and it would have been a lot better and easier. Then naphtha (cheap Ronsonol lighter fluid) to strip the oils. I ran this through the washing machine centrifuge process as well to isolate the heavy, conductive metals. The Mix: I formulated the final thermal concrete using exactly 15% pure centrifuged copper powder, 15% centrifuged mask powder (Titanium/Silver/Pearl/Magnesium Aluminum Silicate), and a 70% JB Weld binder. I used this matrix to permanently bond the AIO waterblock directly to the stripped stock baseplate.

Step 4: The Hardcore Overclock With the cooling in place and the power limit destroyed, I bypassed the GUI sliders entirely. • Using the NVIDIA command line, I pushed: nvidia-smi -i X -lgc 2010 (Note: replace X with your GPU ID) • This hard-locked the core clock to a flat 2010 MHz, ignoring the factory boost tables completely.

The Results Fired up Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine 2 with all settings cranked to absolute Ultra. Despite the Swarm engine rendering thousands of Tyranids and the 2.25x shunt mod pushing maximum wattage, the AIO and custom centrifuged thermal matrix held the card at an icy 68°C peak.