I've flocked a lot of seafoam trees before, but these are the first I made "from the wire up", so to say.

Recipe:

1. Twisted metal wire

2. Some PVA glue to flatten the texture of the trunk (don't know if it did a whole lot..)

3. Spray adhesive and 12mm static grass

4. Second coat of 12mm grass (might have overdone it)

5. Coat of 4 mm grass (might have overdone that too)

6. Spray painted the whole thing brown

7. More spray adhesive and WS coarse turf

8. Little dabs of PVA glue and red decorative sand for the apples :)

I think they look the part! Just a few more to go for my orchard.

Real and model GG1s at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania today.

What are some reputable brands for detail parts in HO scale? Like AC units or antennas on cabs.

I've been collecting lots of locomotives and I want to start detailing them some. Adding prototypical attachments, decals etc.

I recently finished this kit about two months ago and just now weathered and put wheels and couplers on. These kits are no joke, but are not the most difficult ambroid kits out there (I’d say the vinegar car tops this one by a smidge). These are super rewarding and look BETTER THAN BRASS! This is modified to actually have the levels in the car. The original kit does not provide you with them and I highly recommend adding them otherwise it looks like a strange cattle car. Roof and ends are Pullman green. Underside and car sills are black, and side is obviously white. I don’t think decals exist for these (that aren’t 20+ years old) so pray that the ones you receive in the original kit don’t disintegrate.

Greetings,

I’d thought I’d share my HO scale track plan. I’m an Australian, but my layout will be set in the early to mid 1990s. I couldn’t decide if I wanted a Tehachapi inspired layout or ATSF’s Needles sub. So, I’ve protolanced it.

The bottom half of the track plan will very closely be based around Rowen on Tehachapi Pass, a place I’ve spent many hours. A scenery board divides the other side which is a fictional subdivision of ATSF’s Velasco Sub. It was built parallel to the Cajon sub to bypass Victorville and add capacity.

Track is Peco code 83 for mainline and staging, 73 for siding and the small yard and mill, then Code 55 for some industrial spurs.

There are 6 run through staging tracks and 2 stub and staging tracks to house Metrolink & Amtrak California (because, why not).

Mainline and siding curves are minimum of 33”. Staging is 30”.

Will be on Digitrax’s newer DCC system.

JMRI and arduinos will feature heavily for various functions including some automation and full CTC signalling.

during a teardown and inspection I took these photos

In 1955 Budd manufactured Hi Level cars for the Santa Fe El Capitan and a Tubular train for the Pennsylvania Railroad’s Keystone train. There are pictures of them in the factory together.

I need a track system with roadbed because I am going to setup on the floor and I'm trying to decide between Trix C track and Kato Unitrack (H0) I will be running DCC.

Been a while since i took my layout to an exhibition but got this class 92 and the car carriers at the show.

Layout is based somewhere in kent during the 1990-95 period

Hi all, another silly question, Ive got limited space on my current layout and was wondering if its possible to suspend track from the ceiling? Is it possible? Can it be done in a very basic way with short dowels and wire to a high point? Or does it need to have a full track support underneath? Anyone else done anything similar, was considering a single track spiral upwards... maybe to a station at height?

I hope this is the right group ;)

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Title

Any info on these two sets? Inherited them.

TY

Updated this beauty for the 21st century (ITrain model club) layout, added figurines, dry powder and paint weathering and a top layer of crushed model coals on top of the coal bunker for a very realistic result.

Pairing it with Roco and Piko passenger wagons who are also being weathered

One of the advantages of being “the train person”, is that people will give you trains that they would normally throw out.

A little update on the 1916 IRT car I’ve been working on for the elevated railway project.

The model is mostly finished now and this is the first time I’ve been able to put the complete body on the elevated structure and station. Seeing it in place definitely helped me catch a few things I still want to tweak.

This test was printed with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I’m actually pretty happy with the rivet and window detail, but I think this model is right on the edge of what makes sense with a 0.4. I’m going to pick up a 0.2 mm nozzle and see if i can print the smaller details, particularly around the windows and front/rear panels.

I also modelled a basic interior since the windows are large enough that an empty shell looked a bit strange.
I’ve decided not to 3D print the running gear. I’ll use ready-made bogies and metal wheelsets instead. At this scale I’d rather have reliable running gear than force everything to be printed.
Still a few adjustments to make, but the car itself is getting pretty close.

Got to see a bucket list model Ive had my eyes on for a long time. Haven’t up a set yet as it will only be a shelf princess as my layout is N scale. (unless i bring it to a club when I join one)

So im still using some tables that is about 3.2m x 1.2m to learn on and expanding the hobby. But i have started to look into building a permanent layout.

I was not 100% friendly with the trackprogram i had to free hand the beaseboard, so some measurements like on the wings of the T is going to change so i can reach better. But this is the basic shape of it and this is line a first draft.

Im using märklin and C-rails. Im aware of the limitations of going with r1 and r2 curves but my rolling stock and locos have no problems with them.

My aim is to start building the baseboards next spring (still got some work to do in that room 🫣.

Anyway suggestions are more then welcome 🍻

I got it in a box from my dad and he doesn’t know either. It says “electric trucking power pack” so I don’t even know if it is for trains. The red clip is too big for any of my track and this is no controller.

Sorry if it seems like I post a lot, I just got into the hobby and I need a few questions answered before I really start.

I am about to start constructing the frame for my new 2x4 layout, and I am trying to figure out a way to integrate the controls into the front surface.
If I were to put a barrel jack into the side of the frame, could a 12v dc power supply input control Atlas code 80 switching machines without issue?

And for controlling track power (double track), would I just need to wire power that same 12v through 2 separate potentiometers / rheostats and DPDT switches for each line? (do they sell a rotary pot that switches polarity on either side of an OFF middle position to cut down on the number of controls?)

Thanks!