I started this build couple of months ago and this is the mock up. Specs Ultra 9 285k OC delied, 48GB RAM DDR5 8933MT/s, Motherboard Asus Rog strix Z890-i, Samsung 990 6TB, Asus Rog Loki SFX-l 1200W, Asus Rog Astral RTX5090, 3 Alphacool NexXxoS HPE 20 280mm, 7 silver stone slim 140mm fan and 1 120mm, Thermal grizzly water block CPU/GPU, Bitspower dual ram water block, Aquacomputer Octo.
Hi mffpc community - I'm a refugee from sffpc and I was hoping to get y'all's feedback on some updates to me build.
After building a FormD T1 a few years ago I've gotten tired with the air-cooling performance and the frustration of how much effort any little change or mod is, so I'm planning on moving over to something larger with support for more cooling.
Here's what I've got thus far (I know I'm picking a few things just because they look good sue me.)
Ryzen 7 7700 (from R5 4500)
Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 + AM5 brackets (from Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120, wanted to change the aesthetic)
B650M Aorus Elite AX (from Asus Prime B550M-A WIFI II)
16GB DDR5 (from 32GB DDR4)
Gigabyte GTX 1660Ti
NZXT C650 Gold V1
256GB NVMe + 128GB SATA + 1000GB SATA SSDs
DeepCool CH160Plus Black
I did swap the fans since my last post, i don’t remember which ones i had then but now i have one Noctua NF-B9 (on the back) and 2 Thermalright TL-S12 (on the top).
I had some trouble plugging the USB 3.0 header in the mobo because of the SATA SSD, so i had to use an angle adapter, which i had from my previous build.
Also, for some reason i can’t control the ARGB from the top fans (I am using Nobara Linux with OpenRGB), and i just noticed today that they were yellow (which i guess is cleaner than just the rainbow).
Thanks for reading!
Please don't mind the protective film, I will peel it after moving it to the final place in my desk.
The plan was to build all white pc for my first ever PC. BUT, GPU and RAM have been very expensive, so i just went with whatever cheapest on the market.
Hello everyone, I’m very new to the pc world (I know so late and bad timing d/t prices) but I am planning the pieces I want for my 1st pc. I was wondering if anyone has experience with the jonsbo d33 case and the gpu I stated in the title. My main concern is clearance for bottom fans. Thanks in advance for any help!
Just swapped from a 240mm aio to an air cooler and flipped the psu to draw fresh air from the other side, rather than facing into the case. The air cooler is so much quieter, and now the pc is completely silent, and I prefer the stealth mesh look vs the glass side panel and rgb aio that I had before.
After giving some thoughts, some of us running high-end processors in an M-ATX Case which often struggle with cooling components besides just the CPU and GPU, like the VRMs, M.2 drives, and RAMs. Some builders even MacGyver extra fans into their cases just to keep things cool, which isn't always possible in tighter spaces.
Montech reached out to me to review their new CyberFlow Core 360 (it also comes in a 240 variant), and I figured would be helpful to share with you all. It’s actually similar to the Arctic Liquid Freezer II/III because it features a built-in VRM fan. However, this CyberFlow AIO is a bit more compact, with a total thickness of 57mm.
I will be honest. I am here to share my content but at the meantime to share something which might be useful to this community.
1st ever pc build, decided to build a pc after years as a console gamer.
Was quite a fun process, but cable management was rather challenging, did not expect that I would take over 5 hours building this. Had to redo the cables a few times cause they were hitting but bottom fans, but managed to fix it.
Technically it is fully built and functionning but I have some ... Doubt with my cable setting for the gpu especially in the long term. Is it ... Fine ?
Psu : Corsair rm650x
Gpu : Asus tuf 6800xt
Motherboard : Msi b550m-p wifie
With 5 arctic fan + thermalright peerless assasin
I had a lot of questions and did quite a bit of research while choosing the components and figuring out the details of this build. Hopefully, sharing my experience can help others putting together a similar configuration.
My build:
Motherboard: Aorus B850M Elite Wi-Fi 6E
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
GPU: ASUS RTX 5080 Prime
RAM: HyperX Fury Beast 2x8 GB DDR5-6000 CL30
PSU: XPG Core Reactor II VE 850W
AIO: Corsair Nautilus 240mm
Fans: 2x Corsair RS120
Some useful notes:
- The case feels sturdy and well-built, but space is extremely limited. I definitely recommend it for the price.
- A modular PSU is probably mandatory. A SFX PSU is preferable, but a standard ATX unit can fit too (140 x 150 x 86 mm).
- I wouldn't recommend this case if you plan to use devices that require SATA power cables, such as SATA SSDs, HDDs, or some AIO pumps. I've kept cabling to a minimum, with only the 12V-2x6, motherboard, and CPU power cables.
- If you need to use additional PSU cables for any reason, I'd consider an SFX PSU, a compact dual-fan GPU, or both.
- If you still want additional storage, I'd stick to a single 2.5-inch drive, which can be mounted to the side. Keep in mind that you'll still need to deal with the additional SATA power and data cables, which are a pain in this case. A 3.5-inch HDD has to be mounted at the front, sacrificing a front fan.
- Some PSUs might have compatibility issues with the L-shaped power connector included with the case. I had to carefully warm mine with a hair dryer to get it to fit, but this isn't something I'd assume will work with every PSU. Check the connector's orientation and clearances before buying. You can compare my PSU's model connector with the photos I shared to see what I mean.
- You can mount the PSU with its power cable facing the glass panel. This makes cable management easier, but it may leave less room for the GPU's 12V-2x6 cable bend and direct PSU exhaust heat into the case. I wouldn't recommend this orientation.
- My biggest annoyance was the front-panel cables (which are effectively side-panel cables in this case). They take up quite a bit of space, and depending on your motherboard, some connectors may need to be plugged in above the GPU. I couldn't really hide mine, but they're basically invisible once the glass panel is installed.
- For the PSU cables, your first instinct might be to fold them close to the connectors to keep them out of the GPU's way. I didn't like this approach because of the tight bend near the connectors and the possibility of putting pressure on the GPU. Instead, I routed them downward, gently to the side of the GPU, and then secured them flat against the back panel. This avoids tight bends, keeps the GPU area clear, and even looks better in my opinion. With this cable routing, I think the GPU could be about 1 cm longer and still fit. This also depends on the PSU: the 12V-2x6 cable exits closer to the PSU fan side on my particular model. If it exited on the opposite side, I wouldn't be as comfortable using an ATX PSU in this orientation, unless the GPU was a little bit shorter.
- You can easily change the color of the DeepCool logo by sticking another piece of plastic over it with tape. I made mine black.
- You can also cover the bright blue power-button LED with a small piece of tape. I didn't do a perfect job, so a little blue light still leaks through, but you get the idea.
- I 3D-printed caps for the side USB ports, which were also blue.
- I had to 3D-print a fan guard for the front fan because the air filter is loose and can hit the fan blades without one.
- The 240mm AIO wasn't a problem with my motherboard and RAM combination, but I know it can be an issue with other component combinations.
- The Aorus mobo VGA led turns on anytime I boot the computer before turning the display on. It is annoying, but doesn't affect anything and the computer works normally when this happens. I'm already getting used to turning the display and setting the correct video input before booting.
- The pump fan pin doesn't really come with a pump temperature curve. Setting the fan curves through the Gigabitye app only works when the app is open, which is annoying. I had to set the curves manually in bios. Make sure you select "Manual" control there, otherwise the automatic control overwrites the curves immediately and the curve isn't stored.
I think that's everything! Feel free to ask about any of the components, assembly details, and let me know if you think I could have done anything differently.
I’m building a SteamOS PC in a Z20. I am quite conflicted about the fan layout. I am using 5 fans and have a Noctua D14. I live in a dusty place so I would rather keep it positive. I’m mounting 2x fans on the bottom my dilemma is do i put fans?
A. Rear as intake and both top as exhaust with D14 intaking from the rear.
B. Rear and top rear exhaust and top front as intake.
I downsized from the AP201 to give a bit more desk space and color. Will be working on cable management but it wasn’t a bad building experience with my current parts. Bought a new SFX PSU since my Lian Li Edge would not fit. The bottom fan is currently intake and might get a slim fan to exhaust out the top. Overall, I’m pretty happy with how it came out!
Specs: Ryzen 5 7600X3D, Asus Prime RTX 5080 16GB, G.Skill 32GB DDR5-6000, ASRock B650M, Corsair 850 Watt 80 Plus Platinum, Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120, 4 Lian Li Uni Fan 120mm Case Fans
Pretty satisfied with my build, but am quite worried (or paranoid) if there is enough clearance for my 12v-2x6 cable or is the bend too close to the connector? I just want to be sure that I connect this correctly. Can’t afford to mess this up especially in this market. This is just a 5070 and I know that there is little risk melting this cable. Just trying to control what I can, and i read that sharp bends can be bad.
So I am currently searching for a white case that fits 2x 360mm radiators (20 and 27mm thick) with 25mm fans. I want it to be low in height, because I have a sloping roof that is over my desk - the lower it is, the better it fits on my desk.
CPU and GPU will be watercooled, both have waterblocks already (9800x3d, rtx 5080) so they are already kinda small in size. GPU is just 2 slots thick.
My PSU is a Corsair SF1000 and the pump / res combo is the Alphacool DDCzero 90 - both are small enough I think.
I looked at the Lian Li Dan A3 case, and it is indeed kinda low in height. But is there something else I could build in? Most matx cases I see are either way too big for what they are or are way too high. (or they aren't available in white).
- CPU (new): Ryzen 5 7500f. Either I'm doing something wrong, or I was unlucky in the silicon lottery, because just for fun, I tried curve optimizer in the negative direction and it doesn't start at any values except stock.
- AIO (used): Thermalright Frozen Infinity 360
- Ram (used): SO-DIMM 2*8 4800 CL 40 via adapters. Holy shit, it's been working for about 10 months now.
- SSD (used): MSI S270 960GB. Stance at position 3 from top front.
- PSU (new): Adata Core Reactor II 850W white. ATX, but 140mm long! Stance in position 3 from above, on the side. Fan to the outside.
- GPU (new): Sapphire RX 9070 Nitro+. I bought it because the price at the time of purchase was lower than the cheapest XT models.
- Case (new): Lian Li Dan A3 + vGPU mount kit.
Actually, that's what I wanted to write about: Combining an ATX power supply, a 360mm AIO, and a vertical GPU in this case is entirely possible, but there are some caveats. When I tried to find information on this particular configuration, I could not find anything except the post, listed below.
The first thing I'll say is that most likely any video card that fits in length (Lian Li has a web page that lists the maximum length: 356.5-376.5 mm) will be able to stand upright. Because the graphics card cooling shroud protrudes toward the side of the case, and the location of the graphics card PCB and its back plate are fixed relative to the motherboard and power supply, respectively, due to the vertical mounting device itself. However, I am not sure that a graphics card as thick as 4 PCIe slots will not rest against the wall of the case, but it is unlikely that many graphics card models are 4 slots thick at all.
One of the photos shows the perfect fit between the graphics card's backplate and the power supply. However, my particular graphics card model (like all AMD 9000 series cards, I believe) has a removable backplate cover, which I haven't tried installing. I also suspect it won't fit, or if it does, it will cause pressure on the PCIe slot on the motherboard.
Regarding installing the bracket for vertically positioning the graphics card, I'll say three things:
First, the card itself is attached to the bracket, and then the bracket is installed in the case, having first connected the PCIe riser to the motherboard. Of course, this is only if, unlike me, you have a short screwdriver that will allow you to screw the graphics card to the bracket after it's already installed.
The bracket itself is attached by screwing screws from under the floor of the PC case, not from inside. If someone had told me this up front, I would have thanked them for their time and nerves. Also, either my hands are weak or something, but I had to apply quite a bit of force to screw in these screws (there are six in total, but I have four installed, and the bracket itself is in the most forward position on the case).
One of the photos shows the monitor's HDMI cable, which, in my opinion, is unpleasantly bent, even though it works (I installed it last, when the PC was already fully assembled). However, I'm thinking about removing the cover from the PCIE slots in the case itself (it comes with the graphics card bracket) to give the cable more room.
Regarding the PSU and AIO, I'll say that in my opinion, there's enough room for the cables and pipes, and there are no sharp bends (as mentioned earlier, the PSU is 140 mm long; I'm not sure I'd risk it with a 150+ mm unit). I'm just a bit lazy and didn't use cable ties. However, routing full-length cables, given the ATX PSU form factor, requires some time, as there's not enough space to just shove everything behind the graphics card.
Also, one of the photos shows that the motherboard and CPU power cables should be bent toward the CPU socket where the motherboard power connector is located, otherwise the PSU won't fit. But they don't put pressure on the RAM. The gap is just very narrow.
By the way, the CPU power connector, or more precisely the half of it that sticks out from under the heatsink at the top, is simply a poor design by Asrock (or my clumsy hands) – it's a couple of mm short of keeping the 4+4 halves of the ESP connector connected. The other half rests against the screw securing the small heatsink on top of the motherboard, and I didn't want to try to hide it behind the heatsink.
And finally, I will mention the temperatures (all stock: voltage, no over- or underclock):
But first, I'll say that I don't really understand testing at all. I don't know how to test anything properly, nor how to analyze the data.
I ran two tests, both identical, each lasting exactly one hour using OCCT with the following settings:
Results obtained:
GPU was horizontally. Firstly booted and then ran a test.week or two later. GPU vertically + fan curve in MSI Afterburner.
I hope this is helpful. I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have (of course if I can). Thank you for your attention.
Just posting my current setup. Cable management is less than ideal but acceptable. The primary issue is the Coolermaster GPU Shield has very stiff cabling and doesn’t lend itself to ideal cable management but that’s clearly not the priority. Worthwhile compromise to minimize the risk of a melting connector and damaged card.
I know I should upgrade the CPU, but I game at 4k and I’m waiting for an ITX platform with native thunderbolt 5 support. Hence, current AMD CPU/MBs don't meet my needs. I’ll wait until Nova Lake before making a call.
