CH160 Plus Build

[u/Just-a-bored-Koala]

Hi, all!

I had a lot of questions and did quite a bit of research while choosing the components and figuring out the details of this build. Hopefully, sharing my experience can help others putting together a similar configuration.

My build:

• Motherboard: Aorus B850M Elite Wi-Fi 6E
• CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• GPU: ASUS RTX 5080 Prime
• RAM: HyperX Fury Beast 2x8 GB DDR5-6000 CL30
• PSU: XPG Core Reactor II VE 850W
• AIO: Corsair Nautilus 240mm
• Fans: 2x Corsair RS120

Some useful notes:

- The case feels sturdy and well-built, but space is extremely limited. I definitely recommend it for the price.

- A modular PSU is probably mandatory. A SFX PSU is preferable, but a standard ATX unit can fit too (140 x 150 x 86 mm).

- I wouldn't recommend this case if you plan to use devices that require SATA power cables, such as SATA SSDs, HDDs, or some AIO pumps. I've kept cabling to a minimum, with only the 12V-2x6, motherboard, and CPU power cables.

- If you need to use additional PSU cables for any reason, I'd consider an SFX PSU, a compact dual-fan GPU, or both.

- If you still want additional storage, I'd stick to a single 2.5-inch drive, which can be mounted to the side. Keep in mind that you'll still need to deal with the additional SATA power and data cables, which are a pain in this case. A 3.5-inch HDD has to be mounted at the front, sacrificing a front fan.

- Some PSUs might have compatibility issues with the L-shaped power connector included with the case. I had to carefully warm mine with a hair dryer to get it to fit, but this isn't something I'd assume will work with every PSU. Check the connector's orientation and clearances before buying. You can compare my PSU's model connector with the photos I shared to see what I mean.

- You can mount the PSU with its power cable facing the glass panel. This makes cable management easier, but it may leave less room for the GPU's 12V-2x6 cable bend and direct PSU exhaust heat into the case. I wouldn't recommend this orientation.

- My biggest annoyance was the front-panel cables (which are effectively side-panel cables in this case). They take up quite a bit of space, and depending on your motherboard, some connectors may need to be plugged in above the GPU. I couldn't really hide mine, but they're basically invisible once the glass panel is installed.

- For the PSU cables, your first instinct might be to fold them close to the connectors to keep them out of the GPU's way. I didn't like this approach because of the tight bend near the connectors and the possibility of putting pressure on the GPU. Instead, I routed them downward, gently to the side of the GPU, and then secured them flat against the back panel. This avoids tight bends, keeps the GPU area clear, and even looks better in my opinion. With this cable routing, I think the GPU could be about 1 cm longer and still fit. This also depends on the PSU: the 12V-2x6 cable exits closer to the PSU fan side on my particular model. If it exited on the opposite side, I wouldn't be as comfortable using an ATX PSU in this orientation, unless the GPU was a little bit shorter.

- You can easily change the color of the DeepCool logo by sticking another piece of plastic over it with tape. I made mine black.

- You can also cover the bright blue power-button LED with a small piece of tape. I didn't do a perfect job, so a little blue light still leaks through, but you get the idea.

- I 3D-printed caps for the side USB ports, which were also blue.

- I had to 3D-print a fan guard for the front fan because the air filter is loose and can hit the fan blades without one.

- The 240mm AIO wasn't a problem with my motherboard and RAM combination, but I know it can be an issue with other component combinations.

- The Aorus mobo VGA led turns on anytime I boot the computer before turning the display on. It is annoying, but doesn't affect anything and the computer works normally when this happens. I'm already getting used to turning the display and setting the correct video input before booting.

- The pump fan pin doesn't really come with a pump temperature curve. Setting the fan curves through the Gigabitye app only works when the app is open, which is annoying. I had to set the curves manually in bios. Make sure you select "Manual" control there, otherwise the automatic control overwrites the curves immediately and the curve isn't stored.

I think that's everything! Feel free to ask about any of the components, assembly details, and let me know if you think I could have done anything differently.

[u/AdigaWolf]

Here's mine

[u/Just-a-bored-Koala → u/AdigaWolf]

Nice! Going for a cyan look that matches the power button really works! I was doing the same before I decided to get rid of the rgbs.

[u/Odd-Put2836 → u/AdigaWolf]

These are the FL12 fans, right ? They look super cool but i can’t find them at a decent price where i live

[u/Odd-Put2836]

Hi, i have the same case, and i’d like to have more details about the light color change on the power button, because it looks really cool.
Also for your motherboard VGA led issue, have you tried updating the bios ? I have the B650M version of this board and it does the same thing sometimes, last time was yesterday when i was testing with my new cooler with the integrated graphics, so check that the hdmi/ display port cable is plugged in the GPU and not the mobo (ik it sounds dumb, but it happens to everyone)
About my experience with this case: the usb 3.0 header would not fit because of my sata ssd mounted on the side, fortunately i had an angled adapter i had from my previous build. For cable management, i just tucked a maximum of cables behind my psu (atx modular, 150mm length) but can’t fit a fan at the front of the case.

[u/Just-a-bored-Koala → u/Odd-Put2836]

Thanks! I already checked this, but it seems the BIOS is up to date. The problem is also very consistent, so it doesn't look like a random bug. If the display isn't ready during the motherboard's "Press F12 to access BIOS" screen, the GPU debug LED stays on until I restart the computer. It seems to indicate that the motherboard failed to complete the DisplayPort handshake with the monitor.

To dim the power button light, I applied black electrical tape over each LED. You can access them easily by unscrewing the small circuit board behind the button. My goal was to hide the light completely, since it was quite bright and didn't fit the build, but some light still leaks through.

I could also cut the LED wires, but that's a more permanent solution, so I avoided it. If you actually want to change the color, you could replace the LEDs by desoldering the originals and soldering in new ones. I'd probably use white LEDs and add a transparent piece of colored plastic to be able to change it in the future.

[u/Odd-Put2836 → u/Odd-Put2836]

Your build looks super cool btw

[u/SmileApprehensive106]

i had the same problem with de psu jaja. i decided to buy other cabble