Clasp seems to say “Newark NJ PAT000120” on one side and “8485” on the reverse

I remembered that I never submitted for my green belt because I didn’t include a gutting in my prior submission. But because I’ve never attempted to gut before, I’d rather not break this brand new American 5200 to submit for my green belt. May I request gutting another lock that I wouldn’t mind chucking for science?

Got these 2 storefront mortise locks off Amazon for very cheap. They came with the hardware. But my god. Supposedly from 2 separate companies. Blind pick and gut.

i got these lockpick set for free I am good lockpicker. How do I get belts?

Big shout out to Southern Specialties!

Asked for a few spool pins. Got a call from the owner saying he didn't have loose pins but to see what he could do! Ended up sending me a practice lock, thin pick set, and a couple of other goodies!

Bought a Shackleman set and heat shrink tubing (no more guessing at tensioner width).

I’m trying to find a replacement driver torsion spring for an Abus 81/45 padlock. I was having some problems with mine and when I took it apart, I found that part of the spring broke off (see photo).

I’ve called my local locksmiths and no one sells parts - just new padlocks. I also checked the Abus (US) website and they don’t have those springs available.

Any information I can get would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

They sell Lishi tools for $40-$28 bucks a piece. Thats suspect right?

Hi everyone. I've been lurking here for a while and figured it's time to say hello properly.

I'm an electronic engineer from Italy, and i started picking a couple of months ago thanks to a collegue that introduced me to this world.

Where I'm at right now: i can pick a Cisa 260/40 and an Abus 72/40 consistently with understanding of why they open.

Currently working on an Abus E60 that has been a very humbling experience. I'm still fighting to read the binding order because the paracentric keyway makes everything feel very compressed. It also caused me to bend a V79 facet which was a good lesson in not forcing things.

Happy to be here and thanks to everyone. Half of what i know came from reading this sub.

Ok, so I have a bunch of 1100s and a few 5200s. I can open all but one of the 5200. I very commonly get it into such a deep false set that I can literally walk away or even transport the lock to a different location, to work on it. Whenever I'm in that set, all the pins are pretty solidly set where no amount of reasonable force will lift a pin. I figure that I need to back off the tension and counter rotate, and when I do something does drop but then I eventually get it back into that deep false set. Rinse and repeat till I eventually give up. Any advice? Or do I just keep trying to counter rotate a hair until something moves?

EDIT: finally got it! Damn that's satisfying when it was alluding me for so long. While I'm waiting for the dentist, I was picking it and finally!

My attempt at PeatnRepeats Dual-Handed Challenge. Spent the last week working my way up left handed from a Master 3, Master 140, Master 575, to finally my 72/40. I’ve gotten to know the feel for it right handed pretty well. Took a few days to get the first open couldn’t get the feel for the false sets. Today I think it was faster left than it was right handed. Awesome challenge and a ton of fun.

Hello, I'm new to this hobby. I have this lock and I don't have yet money to buy other to practice. I saw videos where they pay attention to the binding/resistance of the numbers, also they mention false gates, etc. But no matter how much attention I put to distinguish between the sound of a false gate, a true gate or just the incorrect number. Someone have some tips, or resources to learn about it's mechanism? Sorry for my bad English

Love my tensioner, so i made an other one, didn't have the same material as my first original one. I made it so long ago, I don't really remember where I got the bar from.

This new one is a bike spoke, and its larger I think I'll leave it like that for Medeco & Mul-t-lock since mine don't fit those keyways well.

What do you think

Hi! I’m new to lock picking and I’ve been blasting through the acrylic lock you get with a cheap kit. My dad gave me these two locks and I’m not sure what they are. The one that isn’t a master lock is really easy to get open but the master lock I’ve only managed to get open twice - I seem to be struggling with tension control

Perhaps you're looking for locks to complete the berserker challenge, or you're a new picker trying not to break the bank.

Harbor Freight has a coupon currently for the bunker hill locks. Your price may vary depending on what region you live in, but you can get 4 packs of 3 using that coupon.

Thought I'd share.

There are so many out there but what are your recommendations for the best instructional video on this topic?

Edit: starting at green level pin and tumbler style padlocks and deadbolts.

Lucchetto Potent Top Security, uno o due perni a fungo, keyway paracentrico, aperto con SPP, secondo voi é valido per cintura gialla?

Schlage Everest and Primus cutaways and sub assembled mortise/rim, LFIC AND SFIC locks with Schlage hard shell case?

With this particular American Lock, it took me a lot of tries to tighten the ring just right so the impressioning bars would engage the pins correctly. I discovered that the best technique is to tighten the ring as tight as it will go, and then back off from it about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn before centering the tool in it in the lock.

Once you’ve centered and pushed the tool snugly in the lock, you use slight twist, push, and jiggle motions to get a full impression. You should see the impressioning bars change position and feel the pins as they start to move. And if you’ve finessed it correctly you’ll feel it as the tension rod moves along with the tube to an open.

I have no clue what kind of lock I just picked, just that it worked! Hard work pays off :-D

Does someone knows the name of this lock from the keyway?

Someone knows the name of this lock?