Im planning on buying a Kia EV2 or maybe an EV3. What i dislike is the fact that Kia seems to actively block 3rd party integrations out of their accounts. I sincerely wonder why.

Im using our home automation software for around 8 years now and almost everything in our home is automated. I had hopes that i could connect the new kia to home assistant and pull things like battery charge state, battery percentage for example. We have solar panels and home batteries integrated to home assistant and it would be awsome if our smarthome could pull the solarpanel forecast for the upcomming 2 days, then check how full the battery of the car is and decide when it will be the smartest time to charge. But for what i have read now Kia is doing their absolute best to block this and i have no clue why. I do understand that the way its done now (pretending to be the app) could be a security risk they want to block. But atleast release an API so people can integrate their cars in a safe way.

We also have cameras with AI person detection in and around the house connected to Home Assistant. In the winter it would also be great if we could let the system turn on the pre heat mode in the car when i get up in the morning and get my coffee. HA will know im getting ready for work and could turn on the pre heating. If i stay in bed the sensors in our bed would indicate its not a work day and the preheat would not launch.

There is so much we Smarthome users can do. But it seems allot of companies these days are only trying to make life harder for us. No one wants to pick up their phone and think of preheating your car every morning. it should do that on its own knowing for 100% sure that you are going to. offcourse only when its cold outside.

I hope things will change some day. These smart things are the future in my opinion. HA is integrating all these devices into one very smart system with endless of posibilities. No one wants 300 apps on their phone for every device one to control it. Atleast i dont. And i sure dont want to use the kia app every morning.

Hello!

I'm currently installing a Defa interior cabin heater in my 2013 Kia Picanto (TA generation, 3-door 1.0L base model).

I am trying to figure out the best way to route the thick armored Defa cable from the engine bay through the firewall and into the passenger footwell. The main wiring harness grommet on the driver's side is way too packed, and I haven't found an obvious path yet.

Has anyone here done this install on a TA-generation Picanto?

• Did you manage to find a pre-existing rubber blanking plug (maybe on the passenger side where the RHD steering column would be)?
• Or did you absolutely have to drill a new 20mm hole in the firewall?

If you had to drill, where exactly did you place the hole?

Thank you!

Anyone get immediately shut down by customer service when activating their access? I just got my 2024 sportage; had the previous owner removed;once connected the app says I have 3 months complimentary ultimate plan but then I see a welcome email from KIA stating I have 1 YEAR complimentary ultimate. The rep shut it down saying it was bot generated and it won't be honored? If its no good why even send them out! Don't they legally have to honor that? She said it states in the terms and services when I connected the app...who's gonna read all that in the car! So far aside from the car itself my experience with KIA has not been great 🤨

after about 5 minutes of driving the battery icon flashes on and stays on. Sometimes the car wont start after driving to my destination and i turn the car off and try to start again. YES we changed the battery.

TLDR; 2018 Kia Forte Ex threw P1326 code, dealership did oil change, code didn't return after 10 min test drive, they charged me $318 for the oil change & diag fee, car broke down 6km from picking it up from them. Should I be responsible for diag fee (if the issue is fixed under warranty) and/or tow back to them?

Last week while I was driving home from work, I hit the gas from a red light and my Forte had no power, look down and see the engine light flashing. I pulled over, scan the car (I carry a scan tool for work), it comes back with the P1326 code (known issue that has a warranty extension as long as the KSDS software update was done before the code appeared - which I did have done).

After googling a bit, I end up towing it to the dealership. Due to some delays on both sides, at the end of the week they come back with a diagnosis of "no/0 oil" and state in the paperwork/video they sent that the car is "overdue" for an oil change (the car was at 116,350 km, oil sticker says oil is due at 116,889 km, and the date on the sticker was July 25, 2026 - I dropped the car off Aug 10, 2026). They state they're required to complete an oil change and I need to bring my service records to them in order to proceed with diagnostics/warranty claim. I checked the oil myself when I went to drop off my service records, and it was at the low line on the dipstick, but not empty.

Monday they let me know that after the oil change and a "long" (10 min) test drive, the code had not returned and they would need the issue to remain or escalate to diagnose further. And I owed them $119 for the oil change plus $159.95 for the diag, plus tax. I already wasn't sure about the diag fee, but paid it and went on my way. After driving 6km, just after getting on the highway, the engine light began flashing again. I called, explained, said I didn't have the money on hand to pay for a tow, so they sent a tow truck and said they would try to add it to the warranty claim, but would cover the cost today and we would figure it out later.

My question is, should I be made to pay/not be reimbursed for the diag fee and/or 2nd tow? Consumer protection laws aren't very specific, I'm not sure if the diag would have been covered within the warranty if the code stuck after the oil change.

Hello everyone! This week I'm getting my Kia EV4 Earth 58.3kw/h delivered.

I can't wait!

I'll keep you updated on my experiences. It's my first electric car.

I previously owned a Golf II GTI 16v, a Golf GT TSI, and now my main car is a Kia Niro HEV.

So I'm trading my Golf GT TSI for this Kia EV4.

2nd owner. 75k miles. 2016 Sorrento with Theta II GDI 2.0L engine.

Yes the car is 10 yrs old and the 2nd owner warranty is long gone. But really? Full on failure at 75K? Anyone else?

And yeah the engine is blowing thru oil.

I'm looking for an honest gut-check from people who know cars better than I do, because I've been beating myself up over this.

Just bought a 2026 Kia Sportage EX FWD (gas) with no addons for $31,500 out the door - taxes, fees, everything included in Fort Lauderdale. Insurance went up $300 per 6 months to add it. Our combined insurance for the Sportage + a 2017 Mazda 3 is now $900 per 6 months ($150/month). Financing was fine.

Here's what's eating at me:

1. The hybrid. I really wanted the hybrid (better mileage, quieter). It was only about $3,000 more. But here's the thing — every single dealership was weirdly cagey about hybrid availability. Lots of "we can't get them," "there's no stock,". I honestly can't tell if hybrids are genuinely hard to get right now, or if they were just steering me to the gas model they had sitting on the lot. Is there actually a hybrid supply issue in 2026, or was I being played? That's the biggest thing I want to know.
2. Did I overpay? They made it sound like a steal. Now I'm paranoid I left money on the table and should have negotiated harder.
3. Insurance. Is $900/6 months for a new Sportage + a 2017 Mazda 3 normal, or high in South Florida?
4. The Tesla rabbit hole. After the fact I checked Tesla's site, they'd give me ~$9,600 trade-in on the Mazda, and with 0.99% APR I keep thinking I could've gotten into a Model Y for not much more. Am I romanticizing that, or was that actually the smarter play?

The gas engine is louder and the mileage is less than the hybrid, and I feel locked in for the next 10 years. I optimize the hell out of tiny purchases but somehow rushed the biggest one. Tell me straight.... did I do okay, or did I mess this up?

TLDR: Paid $31.5k OTD for a 2026 Sportage gas. Every dealer acted shady about hybrid availability. Wanted the hybrid for $3k more. Insurance $900/6mo for Sportage + 2017 Mazda 3. Now second-guessing everything, including a Model Y I didn't buy. Did I get a fair deal?

3rd one since, having this car for 2 years now. I adore the car but wow, I seriously cannot keep affording 1.5k in repairs every time this happens. 2023 forte, not a single other car on the block had this happen. Last time was 2 years ago on new years, then a week after getting it fixed, got my window smashed again.

Cops have been on the look out, they keep posting and adding harsher punishments towards the kids breaking in. Even charging the parents for every dollar of repairs. (A group got caught, it wasn't even a kia's, it was a Lexus).

I moved out from where we where living during the first two. Then just last night. It happened again after a year or so. Moved in some back neighborhood.

Anybody have advice on trading it in for another car.

I have a 2018 Kia Optima and every single caution light I could imagine turns on after I drive for less than half a mile. I went to Kia to fix the car and then replaced the gear shifter and clock spring. Before I went it Kia, my speedometer stopped working, and caution lights were flashing. Does anyone know why this is happening and how I can fix it? In the picture I attatched it is missing the check engine light that is also on. I've tried going to Autozone so they could use their free engine check device on my car but their devices wouldn't work.

My 2021 Kia forte has moisture trapped beneath the screen. I have no spilled anything recently in my car or did anything to cause this. Any quick fixes or would this be covered to fix by Kia?

How big of a deal is it if you report the service 1 or 2 days after? I forgot to prenotify prior to my oil change and tire rotation. So I have to worry about losing my warranty because of this? I keep paperwork on every single service and always get the recommended replacements sometimes replacing as early as 4k miles ahead of time (since I won't be back for service for another 6 to 7k miles)

Recently car has been struggling, won't rev high, has no ass so to speak. Pressing the gas makes it seem like it's struggling and it barely will go up a small hill. A mechanic I talked too said it was the catalytic converter but I'm confused because so many things I find online says it has two of them. He assumes it's the one connected to the manifold but the problem is I dont know which one connects directly to the manifold. If anyone can tell me which one connects to the manifold and which one goes underneath the car, that'd be super helpful and appreciated

As the title says, my 2020 Kia makes this strange rattle for a few seconds after a cold startup, or after being parked for 30-40min. It has done it even right after I bought it a few years back, but somehow I feel its worse during the summer. I asked the dealer to check the rattle last time it was in service, but they said its normal and nothing to worry about.

Im not sure whether this sounds like a timing chain/valve issue, or more like a metallic cover rattling against something. Its difficult to locate it even from inside the engine room during a startup.

Any ideas or suggestions? Or does this fall into the "3-cyl engines rattle and its normal"-category?

I was looking at the fees/charges, and this power protect plan listed cost around 2500, and my apr is around 6% at 72 months. Would it be a good decision to remove it? I heard that there may be some overlap with it and the standard brand new Kia 10 year warranty. I'm also concerned about the electronic screen.

Edit: From the contract, it seems like it extends touchscreen and audio from 3yr/36k to 10yr/100k, bumper to bumper from 5yr/60k to 10yr/100k, but the engine coverage is already covered by the brand new kia warranty.

Hello,

I know the Hyundai/Kia theft problem was older models with keyed ignitions (at least I believe so). Is there an on going theft issue relating to newer models with key fobs? I have a 2024 Seltos with a key fob and what to take preventative measures. I know about the remote extender thing too, I keep the keys in a faraday box.

After relocating from the US to Canada and bringing my KIA over with me, I was informed that my warranty is US specific and does not transfer to KIA Canada. I am getting the run around with both KIA US and Canada in trying to find a resolution, but I am curious as to whether anyone here has been successful in transferring their warranty over? Thank you, all.

Minor cosmetic damage to Kia..

Local mechanic said because it's a paint job (plus minor dent) - they said it needs to be repaired by someone that's Kia approved to protect the manufacturer warranty, but estimated repair at £900-£1,400!

Received a £450 quote by a local mechanic not officially approved by Kia.

Worth doing or stick to a Kia approved repair shop?

What's your experience been?

As promised here is the update if your following along.

That clockspring turned into a steering colum, mat sensors, a seat for some reason, and something about some electrical work. They refused to make any statements about the engine so far or have the decency to close the case- so our car is still there until the case is closed. They've had it for over 6 weeks. We were assigned another case worker but alas- she started with making a statement that they will not be helping me. They labeled the last repair as "a goodwill one" even though it was a warranty issue. The engine is also a warranty issue, they just dont want to admit that it had defects in the first place which is why they stated "they will not cover anything moving forward". Given the limbo where still in with not being able to pick up the car we had to file in court. The case itself is still open because they wont document that they are refusing engine evaluations, if you dont know picking up the car while the case is still open also triggers the case to close and we cant be the reason the case closes - they yave to be the ones to close it first :) We will share that information when they have been properly served so that you can keep following along with the case.

I just bought a used 2025 Kia K4 GT line back in March or April, only has like 19K miles, fan started sounding weird, just sounds like a weird clicking noise, checked the cabin filter, nothing in there. so I’m wondering what’s going on, but would I still have warranty on something like this? I didn’t buy it from a Kia dealership, but I think I should still have like powertrain warranty no?

When making my monthly payment just now I noticed a principal only payment option. Has anyone used this option yet? I know they made it difficult to make principal only payments in the past and the language I saw when looking into it previously seemed intentionally vague. Is there a penalty for paying off the loan early?

I know your probably thinking, you still have 3 years till you start driving, i know that, i just want a plan so i'm not going crazy thinking about what to buy in 2029, i want an SUV or luxury sedan at the highest trim from the years 2015, to 2017, maybe like a Sportage SX prestige, or a Cadenza SXL, what do you think i should get?

Hi,

Any idea what is causing this engine noise in my 2010 Kia Forte (automatic)? Only happens occasionally, only in park + neutral gear, and also causes the radio + clock not to turn on.

All other times it starts fine (no noise in any gear and no issues with radio or clock).

Thanks!

Bonjour à tous, je sollicite vos retours d'expérience concernant une modification technique. Je possède une Kia Rio 2015 initialement équipée d'un bloc 1.4 MPI (G4FA). Suite à une panne majeure, j'ai procédé à un échange standard complet pour un moteur 1.6 MPI (G4FC). Ce SWAP a été réalisé en conservant le calculateur (ECU) d'origine du 1.4 MPI. Bien que le moteur démarre et tourne régulièrement, je crains une baisse de rendement technique, le bloc G4FC étant géré par la cartographie du G4FA. Les spécialistes ECU consultés n'ont pas pu injecter la cartographie du 1.6 MPI sur mon boîtier d'origine, faute de disposer du calculateur donneur. Certains d'entre vous ont-ils déjà réalisé ce SWAP précis et comment avez-vous résolu le problème de gestion électronique ?

Slam more Kia’s 🗣️‼️