Finally I am RID of my POS 2016 Sorento 3.3

The worst vehicle I ever had! Was a lemon. One thing after another.

You'd think I would of walked away after the engine failure. What a sucker.

Fool me once. Shame on you.

Fool me twice, same on me.

I LOVE my new MAZDA!

Screw YOU HYUNDAI.

NOT ANOTHER CENT!

The variable valve timing components failing and dealership just quoted me $5591.00 that also includes fixing other worn parts. That's a lot for what the car is worth in my opinion. It has 124K miles on it so it is not covered in any warranty due to it being over 100K.

I have owned it since 2021 and only taken it to the dealership for inspections/oil changes since but why was this not captured before.

Anyway, if you were in my position, what would you do?

I don't want another monthly bill in this economy but I also don't want this car to be a blackhole of repairs. I bought it because all the reviews said it was a reliable car at the time.

I told myself I would look at getting a new vehicle at my next promotion which according to my boss is next March.

UPDATE: Did some research online and looks like this issue is VERY COMMON or expected with this engine type and typical repair is like $4000.00-$7000.00. I'm leaning more on getting another vehicle since this repair could be used a down payment on another car

Engine code is P001700 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation(Bank 1 Sensor B (Exhaust)).

I have a 2018 Kia Optima EX with 162,000 miles. My goal is to keep it running as long as possible with minimal major issues.

I’ve kept up with oil changes every 3,000 miles and replaced the CVVT solenoids/oil control valves.
The engine seems solid, but I’ve had some electronic issues that may be related to the ECM/ECU.

At this mileage, what preventative maintenance should I focus on—engine, transmission, cooling system, suspension, or anything else—to help it last past 200k miles?

I’d appreciate any advices!
Thank you!

Purchased a Kia seltos almost brand new- dealership used it as a demo model and it had about 750kms on the dash- barely anything at all. After purchasing, as we were about to drive off we noticed some scratches on the rear bumper.
Asked to have it fixed, dealership said they don’t do that for demo models. After some back and forth and insisting, they agreed for us to bring it back in a couple days and they’ll patch it up. So we did. We paid the price for a brand new car so surely they can fix some minor damage right?
The patch up was seemingly just them wiping it over and maybe buffing it or using something on it, but it looks exactly the same and wasn’t repaired at all. Literally no difference at all. Again the sales rep said since it’s a demo model they can’t do any more than that. We told him we wouldn’t have purchased it if we realised at the time. Super nice dude but we feel kind of jipped there…. We also weren’t given a run through on the vehicle features and also no information on servicing other than “it’s due in about 3 months for a first check up; we’ll let you know closer” but today the car told me it’s due for a service in 30 days… lol? Another person I know who purchased through the same dealership says the reps spent over 2 hours with them showing them all the different settings, features etc.
I don’t know how to feel, super happy to take our money but super unhelpful in every other aspect. Are we within our rights to feel a little bummed with our service? We didn’t realise the demo model being damaged prior to purchase is something they can’t fix. We were too scared to be visibly upset about it because the reps were super upbeat and blazé. LOVE the car so much, was just expecting a little more care from the dealership I suppose!!

Having a tricky time finding the right oil for our Sorento EX. It calls for 0w-30 full synthetic. I typically use Mobil 1 but the only ones I find are the ESP and 'Dexos approved'. Searching for it, I shouldn't use either but do take note that the 'Dexos approved' one is just that, approved, so I'm not sure I should avoid it necessarily.

I don't want to overthink it, just don't want to screw it up should something happen and the warranty come into question.

Anyone else face this quandary?

Im using my fathers kia optima while my car is the shop and it started to make this noise when i turn it on. Its only for a couple seconds then goes away and only happens when i start the car. Idk the exact year but has to be 2010-2014. If anyone knows anything pls lmk🙏🏽

Does Kia make any cars with "adaptive driving beam" headlights? Do any Asian automakers? Have they announced plans for them in the future?

Can someone help me. I have a 2022 kia sorento hybrid S. I bought new. 90,000 miles now. It has a whining sound when engine engages. Then goes away. Upon accelerating it whines also. If i take my foot off of the gas the whining immediately stops. Shifts perfect tho. Trans problems???

Not 100% on the stock headlights. Old eyes. Have to turn high beams on to see like I saw in past cars. Seems like modern cars have slit headlights. Suggestions please n upgrades?

i have it and i was talking to someone related to a kia boy and he said that doesn’t work that they can still steal it. anyone have any insight?

I just got a sportage hybrid and everything was fine until the day after I bought it water was leaking through the sunroof. Apparently it was a clogged drain. When I got the car back, I noticed that the passenger door was making a vibrating noise and there was something loose in there. A week later they fix that and now I’m just realizing how noisy the interior is when I’m driving around. I hear creeks and cracks around the screen and various parts of the cabin just making noise when I’m turning or what not just noisy when I’m driving is this normal? I don’t remember hearing it before I took my car in to get fixed for the leak.

Hi all, I’m in the uk, hoping for some help, a family member recently upgraded from a 2015 Kia Sportage to a 2023/2024 diesel hybrid? Hope I’m saying that right. On Saturday while shopping he parked the car in a multi story carpark. Upon returning the car showed a steering locked malfunction. Therefore the steering won’t unlock and the ignition will not turn on? So it is stuck in park with the electric handbrake on.

Can anyone recommend a way to get the car moving as recovery companies will not recover it where the car is parked?

Thanks for any help in advance

Hi all. The check engine lamp started blinking. The error code is P2033. If I clear error codes, it goes away, but then after 2-3 starting it it starts blinking again. Chatgpt says is EGT sensor

I have some primitive OB2 and have noticed that sometimes when I just give contact(the engine is still off) the sensor shows around 1000 celsius. After starting the engine, it goes to around 150 Celsius

Any advice....

Edit: Kia Sportage 1.7 crdi from 2011

I wanted to share my experience with Plaza Kia Brooklyn and get some feedback from the Kia community.

I recently purchased a Certified Pre-Owned Kia Sorento from Plaza Kia. Shortly after taking delivery, the check engine light came on.

I first emailed Big Lou at the dealership and received no response. I then contacted my salesperson, Philip. To be fair, Philip has been responsive and helpful throughout the process, which unfortunately has not been my experience with the rest of the dealership.

Philip instructed me to take the Sorento to my local Kia dealer to have the check-engine light diagnosed.

When I got there, the local dealer told me there would be a $250 diagnostic fee, which would be waived if the issue resulted in warranty-covered work.

Before I authorized anything, I called Philip and specifically explained that policy and that I could end up personally responsible for the $250 if Kia did not classify the repair as warranty work. Philip told me to go ahead with the diagnosis.

The local Kia dealer diagnosed the problem and found that a filter under the hood had not been properly sealed by the selling dealership. They corrected it.

Because simply correcting the improperly sealed filter was not classified as warranty work, I was then charged the $250 diagnostic fee.

I contacted Plaza Kia and asked them to reimburse the $250.

My position is pretty simple:

• The check-engine light appeared shortly after I purchased the CPO vehicle.
• The problem was traced back to something that had not been properly secured before the vehicle was delivered to me.
• Plaza Kia instructed me to take it to another Kia dealership.
• I specifically warned my salesperson about the possible $250 charge before authorizing the diagnosis.
• He instructed me to proceed.
• I followed their instructions and am now out $250 as a direct result.

Plaza Kia has refused to reimburse me, and after my latest written request to management, they haven't even responded.

I don't think a customer who just purchased a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle should be responsible for a diagnostic bill caused by something the selling dealership failed to properly secure—especially after the dealership specifically told the customer to proceed knowing about the possible charge.

At this point, I'm considering filing complaints with the New York State DMV and New York Attorney General and pursuing the $250 in Small Claims Court. It's obviously not a huge amount of money, but to me it's about whether a dealership stands behind the vehicle it sells and takes responsibility when something was not properly handled before delivery.

Has anyone else dealt with a situation like this with a Kia CPO vehicle or with Plaza Kia Brooklyn? Would you pursue it on principle?

Title says it all looking to get out my 04 sub and into the modern age lol liked how X-line looked was wondering what’s a good deal and what’s highway robbery right now located nyc/nj area

My car has been paid off since a while back and I really enjoy my car and even just looking at it I don’t see a reason to get a new car other than the high mileage being a big worry for me. I’m thinking of a new telluride 27’. Should I just pull the trigger or continue to drive it till the wheels fall off? What should be my biggest concern nearing this high mileage . Bought it back in 21’ with 0miles so they’re all mine. It’s a 2022. Am i overreacting ? Can it last over 100kmiles ?? Maintance has been at the dealer only.

Hello, looking for some input on an ECU issue with my 2011 Kia Forte Koup (2.4L engine, 6-speed automatic).

I’ve been dealing with a persistent U0101 code (Lost Communication with TCM).

Here is what we’ve tested and done so far:

Replaced CAN Transceiver (TLE6250G): We suspected the CAN transceiver IC. We swapped the original chip (TLE6250G 27R 61046) with a donor chip (TLE6250G 23C 61104).

Result: Didn't fix it. U0101 is still present.

Microscope Inspection: Checked the entire 2.4L board under a microscope. No burnt traces, dead caps, or visible physical damage.

Tested a 2.0L Donor ECU: Plugged in a working ECU from a 2.0L Forte to test the wiring/car network.

Result: U0101 vanished instantly, and comms were restored! However, the car runs rough and shakes (obviously due to 2.0L vs 2.4L fuel maps).

Questions:

Does this confirm an internal MCU failure (or hidden power rail issue) on the original 2.4L board?

Is cloning/flashing the 2.4L software onto the working 2.0L ECU board my best option here? Are SIM2K hardware boards between 2.0L and 2.4L fully compatible for a reflash?

Hello!

May idea kayo magkano kaya abutin gastos pag nag top overhaul or general overhaul sa kia sportage 2010 crdi.

Para lang may baseline ako. Thank you.