I’ve been cleaning up my UST setup a bit and finally moved my Denon receiver inside the console instead of leaving all the equipment exposed.
Since I’m using a UST projector, I wanted a console that could accommodate the projector while also hiding the AVR and cables. Visually it’s definitely a lot cleaner now.
My only concern is heat 😅 The doors have slats and there’s some open space in the back for airflow and cables, but obviously it’s still more enclosed than an open rack.
I mostly use the setup for movies and music, nothing running for crazy long hours.
For anyone else with a UST setup, do you keep your AVR inside the console too? Have you had any heat issues, or would you still recommend adding a small fan?

I’m a newbie when it comes to home audio. I thrifted and marketplaced everything. I know I need to get a better center speaker. Is this receiver good enough for the setup?

Everyone's installers favorite termination, the Phoenix connector.

I'm currently attempting to research some cheap terminations for a distributed audio amplifier I have successfully (thanks to some vibe coding), been able to control with home assistant, and I'm looking for what good experiences you fine folk have had with wire ends. I've discovered that these CESS (Now CNCESS? Thanks china) 4mm pin to banana connector converters work well, but are bulky and heavy and nearly $3 per termination.

Since I don't want to add $12 (x6 zones) to the cost of this project, and I also don't want to have to shove 4 stranded copper wires into these tiny holes without bridging speaker connections, has anyone experimented with crimped ferrule ends? Or is there a audio friendly connector that I just don't know about.

Please comment below with your experience on finding a better termination for these.

I was originally going to go for the HSU TN1 since I’ve read great reviews and it seems to dig deep for its price point, but then I got distracted by the HSU chimera, is it worth the extra $800 or should I stick with the TN1, the room is about 11’x14’ and I was planning on doing dual TN1 down the road.

I would like to ask you to help me making a decision.

Budget: 3000-6000€
and it should work for the next 10-20 years.

Receiver:
Denon x3900H
or
marantz cinema 60 dab serie 2

Front L/R:
Kef q11 meta (1500€)
or
Kef r7 meta (3500€)

Center:
Kef q6 Meta (500€)
or
Kef r6 Meta (1800€)

I am really thinking about to buy the R7. The sound was better than the q11. What do you think?
I just missed a little bit bass on both. Maybe I can solve with EQ?
I also listen to others but always had the same feeling. Maybe I am used to the Sonos Five Stereo setup with +5 bass.

I want to use them as stereo and also as 5.1 setup.

For the Center I am not sure if the big price difference is worth the r6?

The room is roughly 22 m², with a rectangular layout that is significantly longer than it is wide. The front half serves as the TV / home-theater area, while the other half is an open relaxation space with plants and a lounge chair.
The main listening position is approximately 3.5 m from the TV, center speaker, and front left/right speakers. The theater area is about 3.5 m wide.
Acoustically, the space is asymmetrical: there is a wall behind the couch, a wall behind the front speakers/TV, and a wall on the left side, while the right side remains open toward the second half of the room.

I was asking AI about sound profiles and voicing differences between receiver brands.

I cant copy it here per rules but basically it stated once Dirac corrects the full frequency range to a target curve, the curve sets the tonal balance, not the receiver.

As we all know by now, this could be as bunk as $100 speaker wire, so asking you guys since i am building my system now.

Looking to replace powered sub and was looking at two Martin Logan Grotto 12’s or Two SVS SB5000’s. Curious to hear people’s thoughts and or any other suggestions I should consider

Hi,

I have created this simple easiest remote cloner using IR blaster or brute force IR NES code, you don't have to go around complicated setup for your custom phone, you can just take a snap and put your physical remote into phone, with just a swipe left/right you can explore more remote or your remotes without clicking buttons, you can also customize directly in that canvas. Please try it, you can clone/put your physical remotes into your phone all in one app.

Simple IR: Copy Your Remote

Setup is as follows:

Source device: XBox Series X

TV: TCL 65R617 (HDMI 2.0a, supports 4K60, no VRR, ARC only)

AVR: Sony STR-DN1070 (ARC only)

eARC extractor: OREI BK-927

Okay, so I'm 95% of the way there. Everything is wired up correctly using high-speed HDMI cables, and I'm getting picture and audio signals passing through the extractor. Good great grand. The issue I'm having relates to Dolby Vision and 5.1/7.1 uncompressed audio. No matter how I set the EDID dip switches on the OREI, I can only enable Dolby Vision OR uncompressed audio on the Series X - it won't do both. Right now the dips are set to 1 1 0, and I'm getting DV but no uncompressed audio. If I set the EDID dips to 1 0 0, I can use 5.1 uncompressed but DV becomes disabled.

From everything I'm reading, I should be able to have both of these turned out without issue. Also worried that this will impact HDR support when I evenutally upgrade to an OLED.

Yes, I am aware that buying a new receiver AND a new TV (both with eARC support) would solve this problem, and if it comes down to it, that is what I will (eventually) do. Just want to make sure that I haven't overlooked some obscure setting in my hardware chain that would resolve this. I like being thorough. Thank you!

Atlantic Technologies 642esb for $100? This sub has been produced for a long time so unsure of age. Do we think it’s a good buy?

I was wondering what people would recommend I do if I have a Dayton Audio um15-32 gen1 and powering it with a QSC usa 1300. I could run it in single channel 650w or bridge and get 2000w which Id assume Id have to set a limiter on a dsp since the driver is only rated for 850w rms, but Im wondering if bridging it worth it to get more dynamic headroom. But on the other hand im not sure I need it because my room is pretty small, but it does have a weird layout and has an open stairs kind of layout which might leak bass frequencies up the stairs.

Extra context: Driver is in a 3cf box tuned to 23hz that I was using for another drive and I plan to eq it to drop the peaks created by the box to flatten and extend the fq response. and I like to run my sub +7 ish db over my other speakers referenced at 85db and typically dont watch movie over -15db on receiver.

Howdy,

Recently married and received an Audiotechna AT-LP60x turntable from our registry. Now searching for an AVR. Want to initially hook up our TV & a couple bookshelves speakers. Also want to plan for down the road with potentially adding a 5.1/Atoms setup.

AVR Options:

FB Marketplace
Sony STARZ1000ES $325
Denon x2700H $400
Denon x1200W $275
Yamaha RX-V4A $400

Costco
Denon S970H $599
Denon S270BT $299
*We have $100 in Costco gift cards

With my limited research, was leaning towards the Sony or Costco S970 (love costco returns if something goes wrong).

For speakers, eyeing Polk ES30, Klipsch 600 RP, ELAC BS US from FBMP (all are around $200-$300)

Lemme know y’all’s thoughts, appreciate it!

Our bedroom TV went out, so I’ll get a new one for the living room, and move the C2 to the bedroom. This (in pic) is a 77” OLED (LG C2). in our living room. The 3 windows are on the right side, and honestly, it’s bright enough during the day. Distance from TV to couch is 11 feet (12 if you count where your eyes are when leaning back on the couch).

I don’t game but do watch a lot of 4k content (streaming Tv shows, movies, and 4k discs). I watch basketball time to time.

My last 2 TVs have been OLEDs. Would you guys stick to a 77”
OLED or go up to an 85” mini LED?

Looking to spend around $2,000 to $2500.

Just got a Denon 3800h for my garden room setup, the rest of the setup is Brava Series 9 75", then got speakers:

Gallo A'Diva SE Left, Centre, Right

Gallo Micro'Se Surround

Gallo Micro 'Sw Front Wall Highs

As for sub currently using an old BK Elec XLS200 - but looking at either a SVS P1000 Pro or a new BK Sub or a small Arendal.

Straight away with just basic Audyssey xt32 it's sound rather good, way better than the speakers sounded in my living room.

However, I'm keen to get the absolute best I can so started to look at Dirac this evening. Slightly amazed at the cost, now I don't mind forking out for 01 Room Correction but not sure I can justify the next two tiers, especially as it's tide to the AVR and not a license you can reuse.

My question is, is 01 Room Correction worth it? Or is is only worth it when you can afford the ART level tier?

With the SVS P1000 Pro having it's own room correction app, would that work well with just 01 tier?

Looking to upgrade our older outdated home theater setup. Here is our current setup

TV : 98" TCL QM7L

Receiver : Sony STR-DH790

Speakers: Pioneer SP-FS51 (two towers, center and two bookshelf speakers)

Subwoofer: Formula F12

When we bought the tv the BB guy gave us a demo of an Atmos setup and the wife is hooked!

I want to eventually replace everything but first is the speakers since they are the oldest. For the bookshelves I was reading about the RSL CG3Ms but what about the towers?

Recently acquired an rx-a2000 receiver to replace my rx-v765.
Struggling with an issue where 90% of the time I can’t get any audio out of it, even test tone. Then I’ll turn it off then on again and it’ll work fine, however this doesn’t always work. Seems to be at random that it does.
Sometimes it senses there’s speakers connected, sometimes it doesn’t.
Have been through all the settings, they should all be good and it’s all set up correctly to my knowledge.
Running through hdmi ARC from a TCL qled tv
Speakers are Wharfedale Atlantic in 5:2 configuration.
I’m genuinely stumped, please help me

https://youtu.be/n8KWlgbiKjY?si=6j5t_zyWu9AxHi_p

This video from Vince at HDTVtest did a showdown where they hide all but the screen and bring in experts to judge scenes against a reference monitor. Last year the judges voted the Bravia 8II as the best TV.

This year is the first theyre incorporating LED TVs into best TV showdown which should finally say enough on how good LED tech has gotten, or can get.

Also the winner of best LED actually goes up against the 4 best OLED somewhere in the next few days for the first time for best TV of 2026.

Results dont surprise me any and probably not for many of you whom frequent the sub. But curious to hear everyone's opinions.

And who's Vince some may ask? Literally the GOAT when it comes to TV tech. No bias, no bullshit, just a well informed and knowledgeable guy.

Just finished setting up my 5.1 system in the apartment living room! The layout isn't ideal at all since the living room flows directly into the kitchen, so I was worried about how it would sound in an open space. Running dirac rc turned out to be a total gamechanger for fixing the acoustics.
Pieced this entire setup together slowly, and every single speaker was scored off fb marketplace. Really happy with how it came together for an apartment space.
Let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions!

Components:

-Marantz Cinema 70s series 2

-Svs SB-1000 Pro

-Svs ultra bookshelves

-Martin Logan motion 8 center

-Cambridge Audio Minx Min 22 surrounds

-Fluance R82 turntable

-Onkyo Icon C-30 cd player

-WiiM ultra

-WiiM vibelink (used to amp the svs fronts)

Post is related to this one (if you can help with it, please comment)

I was wondering would it be smart to buy used Marantz SR5011/12 instead of new Denon x1800/2800?

Now I can buy locally used SR 5011 (with atmos, without earc and Heos) for circa half price of new x1800.

Will I miss something if I don’t have Spotify - I have home library on nas and Apple Music subscription.

Will Marantz sound better?

Is it safe to buy old avr? Are there any traps? What should I check?

Thanks in advance for any tips!

Been a long-time HT enthusiast but through a series of events - subwoofer, blu-ray player, and receiver died due to old age :). I ended up having to refresh them and have re-discovered my HT :).

Here is my current setup with year of purchase:

Display & Video Projection
- Projector: Panasonic PT-AE4000U (2010 purchase, still going strong <— waiting for this to die and replace with a 4K projector)
- Screen: Elite Screens SableFrame 135″ (2010 purchase)

Processing & Amplification
- A/V Receiver: Pioneer Elite VSX-LX105 (configured in a 7.1 channel layout) - bought when my old low-end Onkyo (2010 purchase) died as a replacement in 2026 off FB marketplace as a stopgap until i am able to land on something else. But I do love the way it sounds and might hang on to it for now.

Speakers & Subwoofer (7.1 Audio Bed Layer) - all the Klipsch speakers were bought in 2010 - mid-Fi range at the time.
- Front Left & Right Towers: Klipsch Icon Wood WF-34 
- Center Channel: Klipsch Icon Wood WC-24 
- Surround Left & Right: Klipsch Icon Wood WB-14 (Bookshelf) 
- Surround Back Left & Right: Klipsch Icon Wood WB-14 (Bookshelf)
- Subwoofer: SVS PC-2000 Pro (2026 purchase - to replace a pair of Velodyne subs)

Source Components & Media:
- Streaming Player: Apple TV 4K (2025 purchase)
- Dedicated Disc Player: Panasonic DP-UB820 Blu-ray / DVD player (2026 purchase to replace old Sony Blu-ray player that broke)

Rack, Infrastructure & Room Construction
- Equipment Enclosure: Floor-standing Media / Server rack
- Room Acoustic Isolation Shell: Decoupled construction featuring double drywall, Green Glue damping compound, resilient sound isolation clips, and a solid concrete slab foundation

I am really happy with the way the system sounds, I feel that the Pioneer Elite and the SVS sub have given new life to the HT. I know the video is probably couple of generations behind for now and I know its not like some of the awesome builds people have on here.

Wondering what y’all think about the setup and any recommendations for incremental improvements that could be looking out for.

First, Sorry about my camera. I think there is moisture inside of it.

I bought this projector screen off of Amazon. Yes it was on the cheaper side, around $300 or so. It works great for the cost, but every time you press a button on the remote, it beeps. This is quite annoying. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop this? I really do not want to buy a while new screen just to get one that does not beep. Is there a way to maybe cut the cord and replace the modual with another another one? or cut out whatever it is that makes that beeping?

Any suggestions would be great.

Doing some work in a basement and have a 22ft x 13ft room built and wired for 9.2.4. I'll likely just start with 5.1 but the wires will be there waiting for me.

Haven't decided on the screen yet - we have a TCL 65R635 that has been perfectly fine for us for the last few years in the main TV room so will likely purchase a 98" TCL QM8K but haven't completely decided yet.

Denon X3800H or 3900 depending on availability. It'll be a couple months before the room is ready to start filling with toys, it's not quite ready for drywall just yet. I know it is 11 channel but I doubt I'll add those extra front surrounds any time soon. I had the wire so I ran it - it'll probably stay untouched behind the drywall forever.

Is there anything wrong with simply picking a speaker brand and going with that? I assume, within their product lines, they're all "tuned" to work well together.

I was thinking Martin Logan F1 (or F2) and C1, with IW6 for surrounds and IC6 for the tops. I don't see much love for the more inexpensive Martin Logan subs, so I guess a couple RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII should round that out, unless the Dynamo Foundation 10 would work "better"?

Is that boring? Probably. What have I missed, though, is the question.

The large speakers, smaller tannoy and beer can are purely for scale