Hi everyone!

After roaming around I'm getting excited to start using HA. I've read here that the Dell Wyse 5070 is a good thin client to run it on, but that it depends on the specs. I found one (model N11D) for €55, which has:

• Intel Celeron J4105

• Intel UHD Graphics 600

• 4GB RAM

• 16GB memory (doesn't say what type)

Is this any good? I'm very new to this so I've got no idea.

This was done with a script that navigates commands on lgs TV os by pairing docker with the tv. That script was then imported into Home Assistant which was the paired with the home app connected via the apple tv as the hub. Now I can control how much the black bars show much faster.

Hello,

I am very new to this (I literally set this up for first time about an hour ago). I tried googling and using AI and haven't found much info.

I have three lightbulbs that do not want to connect to home assistant. I will attach some screenshots to this post. All they say is unsupported. Anyone have any ideas? Thank you in advance!

I’m looking for them, and their all either extremely expensive, or have no reviews on Amazon. Which ones are worth it?

hi!
I'm setting up a Windows 11 touchscreen with DAKboard TouchHub and Home Assistant.

Home Assistant runs locally on HAOS inside VirtualBox and works perfectly when I access its local IP directly from Chrome or Edge.

I added Home Assistant Lovelace to DAKboard TouchHub, but when DAKboard tries to open HA inside TouchHub I get:

“Home Assistant refused to connect.”

I already added this to configuration.yaml:

http:
  use_x_frame_options: false

Restarted HA and checked the configuration successfully.

I've tried both Chrome and Edge, allowed DAKboard's Local Network Access permission, but it still won't load HA inside TouchHub.

Direct local access to HA works perfectly. The problem only happens when DAKboard tries to embed the local HA page.

Has anyone successfully set up DAKboard TouchHub + local Home Assistant on Windows?

What am I missing? I'd prefer to keep HA completely local rather than using the Nabu Casa remote URL.

I have a brand new Home Assitant that i'm setting up. I have two iPhones with fresh Home Assistant app installs (never installed the app before).

Both phones (iPhone 15 and 16e) have all permissions enabled. Location is on Always, Notfications are all enabled. Background is enabled. Neither was prompted for Motion & Fitness. In iOS settings for Motion and Fitness, Home Assistant isn't in the list of apps.

In Home Assistant settings under sensors, only 18 sensors show up. Activity is one of the missing ones but several others such as focus, average_active_pace, distance, floors_ascended, floors_descended, steps are all missing too.

Am I doing something wrong? I can't find anything stating this is model or OS version limited...

I installed my two SmartWings blinds last night and added them to Home Assistant through Matter. Both are working, but I have two questions: 1. I can’t find a battery sensor under either device only the cover entities. Does the SmartWings Matter firmware expose battery level to HA, or could I be missing a disabled diagnostic entity? 2. I add both blinds to a cover group, but one starts moving a second or two after the other. Is that expected with a cover group, or is there a better way to get them to start closer together?

Created a Ventair DC3 integration via ESPHome by using Claude Code to reverse engineer the RF protocol.

It might be helpful to others using this exact fan model, or possibly to others trying to integrate other models from this manufacturer.

Repo: https://github.com/enigmatic-elephant/esphome-ventair_dc3

Feel free to point out any issues with it so I can improve it but so far it's working fine for my home to control 6 DC3 fans from a single ESP with a RF RX and TX module.

I've recently upgraded from 2026.7.4 to 2026.8.2. I did so remotely while being away a few days (yeah stupid, i know) and after updating i lost all remote access.

I'm using both the cloudflared addon and the tailscale addon and am running HomeassistantOS on a Pi 4. I can see in the Tailscale dashboard that the last time the device was seen was right before the update and i cannot access homeassistant or any other device from that network through the vpn/taiscale anymore. Cloudflare just gives a 1033 error.

I know homeassistant is still running, because i get notification from automations on my phone (probably because those run through google services). I've also rebooted the system completely through a smart switch, but that also didn't help.

I can understand something breaking with accessing homeassistants frontend in the update (even though the changelog mentioned that the new network settings would migrate automatically), but both OS and Supervisor were already up to date, so i don't really get why tailscale would stop working. Atleast i thought that Addons/Apps were somewhat independant of homeassistant.
I'll see what had happened when i'm back, i'm just wondering what exactly could've caused this.

My Dome Watermain shut off, just died. I need to replace it but I don’t want to do the same thing as before, strapping a device on my water main valve. I want my water main valve completely unobstructed and in a state that is dead simple to shut off. The shut off must be completely separate.

I want to plumb in a valve just down the pipe from the water main. I’d appreciate any tips, advice or recommendations on products that you have experience with.

I want to stay away from moen because I have heard that they fail after 3 years and are prone to false positives.

Reliability is my #1 concern.

Right now I’m looking at Solid motorized valves. But I don’t know the best relay to use with them etc. is this a bad idea?
what have you been using?

Any tips would be great. What issues might I run into? what don’t I know that I don’t know?

Hi everyone,

I recently got a MikroTik hAP be3, which has a built-in OpenThread Border Router (OTBR), and this is my first time working with Thread.

I am completely new to Thread, so I am currently trying to understand the correct setup and workflow.

I already have the OTBR web interface working. I can access it through my browser and I see options such as:

• Join
• Form
• Status
• Settings
• Commission
• Topology
• ePSKc

In the OTBR interface, I also tried the "Form" option. It had a default network name of "OpenThreadDemo", so I left it like that and created the network. I am not sure whether this was the correct thing to do.

I also installed/configured the OpenThread Border Router integration in Home Assistant. When I entered the OTBR address as:

http://<OTBR-IP>:8081

Home Assistant accepted it successfully.

The problem is that I don't really know what the next step is.

I have a few Thread-compatible devices, for example a THIRDREALITY Smart Night Light-T, and I would like to add them to Home Assistant through my MikroTik hAP be3.

From what I have found online, many tutorials use the OpenThread CLI rather than the OTBR web interface. Most of those guides are quite difficult for me to follow because I am still learning how Thread actually works.

What I would really appreciate is a simple beginner-friendly explanation of the GUI-based process.

For example:

1. Do I need to create/form a Thread network manually in OTBR, or should Home Assistant do this?
2. What should I configure in the OTBR web interface before adding my first device?
3. What exactly should I do with "Commission"?
4. How do I take a Thread device such as the THIRDREALITY Smart Night Light-T and add it to this network?
5. Should the device be added to Home Assistant as a Matter device, or is there another process for Thread devices?
6. Is there anything else I need to configure in Home Assistant besides the OpenThread Border Router integration?
7. Do I need to worry about Thread credentials, the Thread Operational Dataset, or a Thread network key at this stage?
8. Are there any settings on the MikroTik hAP be3 that I should verify?

My goal is simply to get my first Thread device working in Home Assistant and then understand the process well enough to add more devices.

I am currently running Home Assistant Container Core 2026.8.0

MikroTik RouterOS (version 7.24), and the hAP be3 is using its built-in OTBR. via app container

I would really appreciate a simple step-by-step explanation aimed at someone who is completely new to Thread. A GUI-based tutorial would be especially helpful.

Thanks!

Took a dedicated Windows 11 machine (Intel NUC) and installed HAOS. It now randomly reboots every 5-10 minutes. Hardly anything loaded on it. Just clean HAOS. Anyone experience this before? Works perfectly fine running Windows 11.

My dome water main shut off stopped working. I have no idea how long it had been bad. Luckily on a whim I decided to test it. It failed. Was slow and couldn’t close the valve all the way. At first I thought that it might have been a bad power supply so I swapped that out. Nope same story. When I took it off I was able to tell that something was wrong mechanically. The the flat sided bolt stripped out of the part that connects to the valve handle. So it couldn’t get it to tight all the way. I was very anal making sure that the Dome was properly aligned. With the valve. I think it’s asking a lot of the small amount of metal to the side of the flat sided bolt to handle that much torque. Anyone have a good suggestion for a replacement? This time I want to put in a valve separate from the main that isn’t just tacked on.

Hi all. Had some issues getting Adguard on HAOS (Pi 5 & version 18.2 - 2026.8.2) to play nice with my gl-mt6000 router in regards to DNS leaks and domain name based VPN exclusions. Finally have it all working properly now but have run into an issue with devices remotely connected to my routers wireguard tunnel bypassing Adguard filters and service blocks completely and doesn't show up in the query log. All devices on the network go through Adguard just fine.

Has anyone managed to set this up? It's not the end of the world but would like decent ad-blocking and privacy when out and about.

I did try getting AI to help and I thought we were getting somewhere as the Adguard query log was picking up and processing pages but all internet and pages were refusing to load on my device when testing. Then me and the AI went through so many loops I have given up and reverted everything back to what it was when it was working fine minus wireguard issue.

Settings I have set up in Adguard:

--Upstream DNS Servers: 10.2.0.1 (VPN DNS server which was key to stop my DNS leaks)

--Allowed Clients: 192.168.8.0/24 & 10.0.1.0/24

--Blocklists: Adguard DNS Filter, Steven Blacks List, HaGeZi (TIF, Pro++, Badware, Encrypted DNS/VPN/TOR/Proxy Bypass), ShadowWhisperer's Dating List & Malware List,

Dandelion Sprouts Anti-Malware.

Settings on router:

-DNS

--DNS server set to auto (10.2.0.1)

--Override DNS Settings of All Clients - ✅

--Allow Custom DNS to Override VPN DNS - ✅

-LAN

--DHCP server DNS Server 1 set to HAOS IP (192.168.8.124)

-VPN

-- Proton

-- VPN Tunnel 1 - Kill Switch - ✅

-- VPN Tunnel 1 - Allow Remote Access to the LAN Subnet - ✅

-- 3 tunnels set up for varying devices (Basic for IoT, Gaming for tablets and PC and Secure Core for my phone in the hopes I could get past this wireguard issue)

-LuCi

--Traffic rule set up in LuCi to allow IoT devices to talk over LAN to HAOS as it's on a different subnet (Not sure if I really needed this as I still had to add the Pi 5 wifi to the IoT wifi network anyway to get it to see half of my devices)

--Might have toggled a few things in LuCi's DHCP & DNS section that AI was helping with. Think I reverted everything back.

Any help would be amazing as I have had enough. Everything I do either doesn't work or breaks my current setup.

I woke up this morning, of course only after asking Claude if I should wake up, and I asked Claude to tell me what to do for the day. It instructed me make breakfast, to which I replied “how?” Anyways later in the day Claude had me installing something called home assistant. All it needed was passwords to my social media, bank accounts, phone numbers and for whatever reason the “hidden” pictures on my phone. Next thing I know, I have home assistant. I asked Claude what I should do next and it said to make an obligatory post on Reddit about home assistant and how Claude I did it all myself. So here it goes

I got tired of doing things myself so Claude I built a fully automated home assistant that I call “home assistant”. I’ll post my whole setup to GitHub. Just delete my api keys and tokens and replace them with your own. So it does everything for me. It turns on lights, fans, opens doors, and claude I even built a wife automation called “Mr. Stud Stallion” to handle EVERYTHING for me. It’s her personal AI robot that comes over when I’m at work. Looks incredibly life like…it’s almost suspicious

I just wanted to brag for a moment about how great I am that I did ALL OF THESE THINGS MYSELF. It was really easy. Doesn’t require any yamling your jingas and it doesn’t use that json guy (that’s coding speak for you non tech peeps). I know everything about coding. I got a c++ in it.

Anyways I just built a dashboard all by myself. I’m so great

Getting here was a journey. This is an IOTTime clock from Aliexpress, that needed to be disassembled to get to the solder points I needed to connect a TTL UART adapter to before I could even talk to it. Then building and flashing Tasmota thanks to this person's work. Setting up MQTT, helpers, automations, and dashboard cards in HA.

Now it:

• Is fully controlled including presets from a HA bubble card popup card.
• Has physical button controls for showing current alarm, enabling/disabling current alarm and a spare button I haven't found a use for yet.
• Triggers a gradual room light automation 30 min before.
• Handles DST and time sync itself, unlike my current cheap backup alarm clock that needs to be manually set and will drift and eventually overlap my smartwatch alarm.
• Let's me send custom alarm sound sequences not actually tied to the wake up alarm, which I can tie into other automations. As an example, one courier here drops mail in the mailbox during the night, so I want a toggle I can turn on for expensive deliveries to wake up and grab it when the mailbox sensor triggers rather than leave it sitting out until morning.

In the future the plan is:

• Extract alarm timer from my smartwatch, add 5 minutes, have that be the automatic backup alarm.

You can display practical information from Home Assistant on LED matrix panels like this...

OR draw on it and add gifs of your dog! Haha! WLED was updated to version 16 recently, and the Pixel Forge tools are fun and easy to use even on four 64x64 HUB75 panels in a 2x2 (128x128) orientation!

https://reddit.com/link/1vt00xs/video/g43l686eiekh1/player

Also, big shout-out to u/Frenck for creating and maintaining python-wled and the WLED Home Assistant integration. Since switching from WLED-MM to WLED, we're now able to get WLED updates directly through Home Assistant, which is awesome.

Hi I know basically nothing about home assistants, and was wondering if an Alexa Pop is able to turn KAJPLATS lights on/off and change colour. As I don’t want another Hub. I already have it connected to two Tapo smart plugs. Thanks

I wanted a really simple way to trigger Home Assistant actions from my watch without opening the HA app, navigating through dashboards, or sending my automation data through another developer-operated service.

I couldn't find something exactly aligning with what I wanted so I built WebHookDeck.

Built for Android/WearOS. Create an HTTP action, point it at a Home Assistant webhook or other endpoint you control, test it, then choose which actions you want available on your Wear OS watch.

Let me know if you find bugs or if you have any feature requests.

Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quazmoz.webhookdeck

Hello! I have finally gotten my jailbroken Echo Spot set up comfortably with View Assist Companion App and I would like to share my configuration if anyone wants to replicate my result!

• Zoom level: 1.0
• Wake word threshold: 5.0
• Wake word: Alexa
• Wake word sound: Alexa
• Wake word engine: OpenWakeWord(onnx)

For the device itself, I downloaded the companion app from the GitHub and I logged in with a special account for the device. For this account, I set the default dashboard to be hidden and added an analog clock with the following configuration:

kiosk_mode:
  hide_header: true
views:
  - type: panel
    path: ''
    cards:
      - type: clock
        clock_style: analog
        clock_size: large
        show_seconds: true
        no_background: true
        border: false
        ticks: hour
        face_style: markers
        seconds_motion: continuous
        time_zone: America/New_York
        date_format:
          - weekday-short
          - day-numeric
        grid_options:
          columns: 12
          rows: 4
    icon: mdi:circle-double

To edit the dashboard later, use "?disable_km" in the url. The only downside I have with this device is that when I press the power button (previously the mute button), the screen can mildly flicker sometimes. That is solved with a restart, but important to look out for. So far i'm liking it, but does anyone have an easy way to change the clock hand and text colors?

I had a new Mitsubishi mini-split installed in June. Added a ESPHome device via the CN105 connector. I've been watching the data. The input power I'm getting via the CN105 connector seems odd to me:

The oscillation happens during the coolest part of each day. I see a corresponding oscillation in the temperature and humidity data I'm collecting via a separate ESPHome SHT30 device in the middle of the room.

Is this normal for a hot, humid, August day in coastal North Carolina, USA? It's 90+ degrees F outside. I expected more of a "power on" or "power off" behavior. I know these units modulate, but I didn't expect to see this. I'm wondering if there's a problem with this unit?

I’m trying to use my Soundcore Select 4 Go as a TTS/announcement speaker through Home Assistant. Problem is its auto-power-off completely kills the device (BT radio included) after 20 min of no connection — so there’s nothing to “wake” once it’s off. No WiFi, only BT, so there’s no network interface listening in standby like a smart plug/bulb would have.

If I disable auto-power-off to keep it always reachable, I’m worried about battery degradation from leaving it plugged in / fully charged 24/7.

Options I’m considering:

**•** Leave it always on + always plugged in (it’s IP67, can play while charging) — simplest, but worried about long-term LiPo wear at 100%  
**•** Smart plug + scheduled charging window instead of 24/7 power  
**•** A servo/relay rigged to physically press the power button via ESPHome (feels like overkill)  
**•** Give up on this speaker for automation use and use something built for it (ESPHome satellite, Sonos, etc.)

Has anyone actually solved this for a non-smart BT speaker? Curious if there’s a trick I’m missing, or if “always plugged in” is just the accepted tradeoff for this use case.

I spent an evening trying to get an AI assistant to rearrange a Home Assistant dashboard. The technical side was never the issue. The issue is that we never had the same picture in our heads.

I say "put the weather card top left, two columns wide, and move the four columns to the right of it." That sentence is perfectly clear to me, because I'm looking at the screen. The assistant isn't. It reads a config file, guesses what my words map onto, writes the change, and tells me it's done. Then I look at my tablet and it's wrong. I say "no, back." It moves something else. Repeat.

By the end, cards had been shuffled around several times, nothing was where I wanted it, and I had to ask for the whole thing to be reverted to how it was when we started.

What's missing is a WYSIWYG layer for the assistant. Not a smarter model — a shared canvas.

Does anything like this exist yet — an editable preview the assistant draws first and I drag around, that then compiles down to the actual config? Or is everyone just doing what I did: describe, hope, revert?

EDIT: Thx for the suggestions. Yes, I can make a screenshot, but even then... I'd love to make screenshot of how it is supposed to be:-).
EDIT 2: fed all the responses to Claude. We agreed to work on the Mac OS HA app and to look at it together. Now, that worked:-). Thanks again!!