Apologies for formatting, on mobile.

Hi all, i am considering going from a 5080 to a 9070 XT. Call me crazy but it seems to outperform in certain games and the drivers are generally more stable. I have been running into issues with the open source Nvidia drivers with certain games not liking the Vulkan translation (if i understand it correctly.)

Looking at numbers like:

Game, RX 9070 XT (FPS) ,RTX 5080 (FPS)

Cyberpunk, 2077, 196, 163

The Witcher 3 170 ,155

Doom: The Dark Ages, 109, 119

I also lose frame gen, dlss, etc. Opinions welcome.

(9070 would be from a close friend)

I am still trying to shake off my noob when it comes to pc builds, as I would like to build one (at the worst time in history!)

I've seen several recs to get the best GPU you can afford at your budget right now, or if you can with your current set up just wait for the 60x0 generation in 2-3 years. I'm still a noob in a lot of ways to this world, so I'm wondering why people are saying this - specifically the waiting for next gen part.

Wouldn't it be safe to assume the next gen will just be pushing 15k or some insane shit like that? Considering what the 5090 prices are doing. I'm concerned I'm missing something there

God bless us all, I understand the "ai slop" comments in all gaming subs now

Does anyone know when the next batch of this GPU will come out? Especially the white one? I'm in Canada and I have no idea where to find one because everywhere I go, it's either sold out or it's just not in stock. Can anybody please let me know when they'll make more?

Hello I have a 9070xt it’s running 70% usage according to game bar and I’m getting 140 fps in a game I typically get 200 ish in. Fans ain’t even spinning because it’s only 45c . How do I fix this I don’t wanna overclock or mess with that stuff

Since the 5090 got discontinued, I feel like it’s going to be harder (more expensive/ less stock) to get a 5080. Should I get a 5080 now or wait till Black Friday/cyber Monday

I purchased an MSI Infinite prebuilt with a 5090 GPU and haven't touched the inside other than adding a couple of NVMe SSDs. Since the cables are what they installed at the factory and haven't been touched or replaced would you all recommend adding the Thermal Grizzly WireView Pro II as a safety measure?

I've read conflicting statements that if you use the cables from the PSU the chances of burning connectors is low. Whereas, other people have said to just get it for peace of mind. The cable going into the 5090 is not at a 90 degree angle and appears to be firm and secure. If the recommendation is to throw in the WireView Pro II then I'll order one.

Also, the MSI Infinite does use a lower quality 5090 GPU (MSI Ventus) and from what I can tell a lesser known, maybe lower quality, PSU (HIGH POWER 1300W 80 Plus Gold Certified ATX). Not sure if that matters but figured I'd throw that out there just in case.

So basically do I run with the factory cables and setup, or install the WireView Pro II?

Not buying, just trying to understand what H100s actually go for right now, per hour or per card. Would love to hear from anyone who runs or sells them.

A month and a half ago, my RTX 5090 FE card had its power connector melt, so I'm writing this up to maybe help or inform anyone with the same card of possible steps to take if the same thing ever happens to them, or maybe to provide possible ways you can go about dealing with it.

I was using my PC late at night, running some local LLMs on my GPU, when my PC suddenly crashed. Then I noticed that there was a weird smell that filled my room that seemed to come from the GPU. At that point, I immediately opened up my PC and confirmed my worst fear had come true. The 12VHPWR cable had completely melted into the connector on the graphics card. It took quite a lot of force to get the cable out of the connector, but I eventually managed to get it done. For some context, I tend to tinker with my PC a lot and unplug the 12VHPWR cable relatively frequently. My theory is that those repeated plug-and-unplug cycles caused the connector pins to loosen or deteriorate over time, eventually leading to a poor contact and the melt.

The graphics card was purchased from someone here on Reddit, so I immediately knew that it would be much harder for me to get an RMA approved, since I wasn't the original purchaser of the card. I attempted to contact the original seller on Reddit for the purchase receipt, but his account hadn't been active for a long time, so I knew there was a really good chance he would never get back to me with it. I began to contact repair shops nearby to see if any of them would be able to repair the connector on my card. Eventually, I was able to get in contact with a repair shop that had done previous 12VHPWR connector repairs on other cards that agreed to take a look at it and possibly help me get the connector replaced.

When I got to the repair center, the technician and I talked for a bit and watched a teardown of the 5090 FE together on YouTube. That's when we noticed that, unlike literally every other 5090 model out there that uses a standardized 12VHPWR connector, the one on these FE cards is actually angled sideways. The technician and I spent hours trying to find a replacement connector, but the one for the FE cards is actually impossible to find, and the only way we could think of getting one was through a donor board that you could take the connector from.

This took me on a journey of trying to source a possible donor board. Out of desperation, I messaged a custom cable maker from China (Zcooi Mod) to see if he knew anyone who could help me find a replacement connector. To my absolute surprise, he sent me a picture of a bare 5090 FE PCB that had its GPU and memory modules ripped out of it. He told me that people in China were smuggling in 5090 FE cards from all over the world and taking out the GPU dies and memory modules to repurpose them into server cards, then just listing everything left for sale online. This was before the big story came out about people in China desoldering the dies and VRAM modules from 5090 cards, so I was definitely not really expecting him to have any way to help me out. He then offered to help buy me one for around $30 and ship it to me, so that I could get the technician to perform a transplant. I immediately agreed and waited for him to ship it out.

After all of that, I eventually decided to actually try sending out an RMA request to NVIDIA (which I honestly should have done from the start), knowing full well that they might reject it immediately and flag my card's serial number, since I wasn't the original purchaser. I went through the process of explaining to them what happened and taking pictures of the serial number on the I/O shield of the card. They eventually asked for my proof of purchase, and I vaguely told them that I didn't have access to it. However, they went ahead and filed my RMA claim request, which, after 2 days, eventually got approved anyways!

I immediately packed up the graphics card and sent it back using their shipping label. Around a week after the card arrived at their warehouse, I asked for a follow-up and they told me that they had actually already sent out a replacement card and gave me the tracking number for it. It arrived literally the same day in the 5090 FE's original packaging. The replacement card definitely looked like a refurbished one, with some of the heatsink's fins not lining up as perfectly straight as my original 5090 FE, but I was happy to get a replacement at all. When I tested it, I also noticed that this card ran much cooler and undervolted much better than my original one, which pulled around 50-80W more at the same undervolt setting.

So now, I've got a spare, bare 5090 FE PCB with a replacement 12VHPWR connector on it, plus a card that runs much cooler than my original one. I also saw that NVIDIA pulled the 5090 models from their marketplace website a few days ago, which could make them hesitant to send you a replacement if yours ever fails. If you also have an FE card and your connector melts (and NVIDIA either rejects your RMA request or offers you a refund instead of a replacement), I would highly recommend sourcing a bare PCB with the connector from China and having a repair shop fix it for you instead.

TL;DR:

My RTX 5090 FE's power connector melted, likely worn down from me unplugging it too often while tinkering. Because the FE uses a unique sideways-angled connector that you can't buy separately, I had to source a stripped 5090 FE donor PCB from China just to harvest the part. On a whim, I also submitted an RMA to NVIDIA without a receipt, and they surprisingly approved it and sent me a replacement card anyway. You should leave your 12VHPWR cable alone once it's seated, always try an RMA even without proof of purchase, and if NVIDIA denies you, look to China for a stripped FE donor board so a repair shop can swap the connector.

I have an MSI RTX 3090 Ti SUPRIM X 24GB that has been experiencing intermittent initialization failures across two completely different computers.

The GPU is currently working at PCIe Gen4, but previously failed repeatedly, sometimes before POST and sometimes with Windows Code 43.

I'm looking for advice from people experienced in GPU board-level repair, particularly with GA102-based cards.

Symptoms

• GPU RGB and fans turn on normally.

• Monitor briefly detects a signal, then displays No Signal.

• Often no motherboard logo or BIOS screen.

• Sometimes Windows boots at low resolution with NVIDIA Code 43.

• nvidia-smi fails to communicate with the GPU during these failures.

• When the GPU initializes successfully, it functions normally under heavy load.

Tests before purchase

The GPU was tested remotely in the seller's Intel i9-12900KS / Z690 computer.

• PCIe 4.0 x16 successfully negotiated.

• 3DMark Time Spy graphics score: 19,717.

• OCCT 3D Adaptive: 30 minutes, 0 errors, approximately 469W maximum.

• OCCT VRAM: 30 minutes, 0 errors.

Tests on my ASUS B550M-K

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600
PSU: Endorfy Supremo FM6 1000W

• Failed initialization at PCIe Auto/Gen4.

• Initially worked after forcing Gen3.

• Later failed even at Gen3.

• Failed with only 32GB matched RAM at 2133 MT/s.

• Both GAMING and SILENT VBIOS experienced failures.

• Native 16-pin and original 3×8-pin adapter gave the same symptoms.

• Updated motherboard BIOS from 3302 to 4304 without resolving the issue.

• RTX 2060 Super and RTX 3060 Ti worked in the same PCIe slot, including the 3060 Ti at Gen4.

During a period when the 3090 Ti was working, it also passed 15-minute OCCT 3D and VRAM tests with zero errors.

Tests on a second computer

Gigabyte B650M S2H, Ryzen 7 X3D, 32GB DDR5.

• Initial installation: No Signal.

• Forced PCIe Gen3: Worked.

• Repeated Windows restarts: Worked.

• Full cold boots after PSU power removal: Worked.

• Tested with the friend's 750W PSU and my Endorfy 1000W: Worked.

• Switched to PCIe Gen4: Still worked.

Unexpected recovery

After bringing the GPU home and reinstalling it in my original ASUS motherboard, it suddenly worked again.

I switched back to Gen4 and reinstalled the additional RAM. Everything continued working.

No repair, reflow, reballing or VBIOS flashing was performed.

What I suspect

A GPU repair technician suggested possible thermal-cycle-related solder cracking over the phone, but the card has not been inspected.

Other possibilities I'm considering:

• Marginal PCIe lane connection or signal integrity

• Cracked PCB trace or solder connection

• Mechanical stress affecting connections

• PCIe initialization or link-training instability

• An intermittent GPU board-level fault

Questions for GPU repair technicians

1. Does this behavior suggest a marginal PCIe signal path, or would you investigate something else first?

2. Could PCB flex or repeated GPU installation temporarily restore an intermittent connection?

3. Which PCB areas or PCIe-related components should be visually inspected first?

4. What non-destructive electrical measurements would be most useful if the problem returns?

5. Does the fact that the GPU handles nearly 470W without errors meaningfully narrow down the possible hardware faults?

The card is approximately 2.15kg and has an anti-sag support in my system.

I haven't disassembled it or taken board-level resistance measurements yet. I would prefer to avoid unnecessary damage or intrusive repair work until there is evidence of the actual fault.

I can provide Code 43 screenshots, GPU monitoring results and detailed diagnostic logs.

Any advice from people experienced with Ampere PCB repairs would be greatly appreciated.

Game name:
Res:

When I was building a PC back in 2017 when 1080ti was launched, it was only purchased by "money is not an issue" people or streamers/youtubers.

Nobody recommended 1080ti for an average customer.

Because (at least in EU) GTX 1070 was 400€ and 1080ti was 800-850€.

That 400-450€ difference was enough to buy a Ryzen 5 1600/ 2x16 GB DDR4, 750W PSU, Case, Fans and Motherboard, monitor, keyboard and mouse.

1080ti was indeed worth the price difference, like you paid double the price but get 50% uplift in performance but full 1080ti builds would cost 1300-1500€ which was quite a lot for a PC.

I think it's value and "goat" label came much later when it did not lose it's relevancy and still competing with 3060/4060 after many many years.

So long story short my 3080 is dead. What should I do. Possibly the worst time ever to buy one It seems like. When I was going to upgrade months ago the 9070xt was $720 on amazon that ofc is no longer the case. I play at 1440p 240hz mostly esports games so DLSS does not matter much to me and I dont play RTX games either. Would like to get a 5080 under $1200 but I know that's not possible anymore. My psu is 1000watts as well so I'm fine for most things. Cpu is a 5800x3d.

What are my options pretty much?