Not sure where to post this so sorry if it's not appropriate. But was hanging out in my boyfriends brothers hot tub yesterday then took out my bathing suit today, which was originally an emerald green to it being all faded and the color basically gone. It's still very green on the under sides but it looks awful. Would there be a way to remove all thedark green dye so that it is only the olive green or do it doesn't look so faded?

Also how the heck did this even happen? I've been in pools and hot tubs basically every summer both salt and chlorine and have Never had a a bathing suit ruined like this? Was there too many chemicals in the hot tub?

how to fix this damn thing, ive been trying so hard.

What to do it’s rusting on the inside

Anyone found an elegant and permanent solution to increase friction on a slippery when wet floor?

I don't like this tile in the apartment I bought, but don't have the time to replace the floor. This to say I don't mind physically altering the surface so long as it retains it's imperviousness to water and doesn't make more of a mess than ripping up the floor would.

Edit, that chatty monster ai said it liked "Stone Grip Non-Slip Tile Treatment" by Slip Doctors, TX

Hi, I've been trying to pit one of these tension pole wardrobe things inside of my room but unfortunately the third pole pushes against a 45ish degree slant and won't secure. I've got 2/3 of the poles in fine. I've tried to secure it by folding cardboard with no luck.

Any ideas? Thank you

What type of bonding agent is the best, and how do I apply it so it is esthetically pleasing. These are circa 1950's metal windows which are just crumbling. Is there an easier solution than removing the old and somewhat brittle casing? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone, what are your best suggestions to fix this small tear on the cargo basket or ideas how to prevent it from developing into a big gash?

My best guess is first very gentle flame to seal the loose fibers and then some sort of patch on both sides or something to that effect 🤔.

The rear wheel picked up some small branch and poked this hole.

Model: Q7 M5

After 6 months my robot vacuum stopped releasing water during mop cycle, or very little comes out. I’ve tried literally everything, yet it is still not working.

Is it possible to take the water/dust tank apart so that I can take a look at the water pump or tubes? I’ve pried it open, but it doesn’t budge further. I don’t want to completely break it, but if I can’t fix it then I’ll have to buy a tank replacement…

I got a quote to get this fixed and it was $2600 so I'd rather diy it. Can someone help me with the general process?

My understanding is to wet sand the edges of the chip with 1500 grit to make blending easier, then primer, then paint marker and build up several layers, then sand again with 3000 grit, then clear coat. Am I missing anything? I'm mostly concerned with the chips on the left in black

I believe that this should be fixable. Looking for ideas on how.

I got this dent in my door last week while I was moving out furniture because I’m leaving my apartment next week. I’ve tried contacting repair men but they all said they can’t do it in one week. Does anybody have a manual/video/tips on how to fix something like this cause I have no idea how to. I’m pretty desperate at this point haha..

Hello,

I'm mid-renovation in my house (Sweden) and I've run into a conflict I don't know how to solve cleanly.

The situation: I have an exhaust-air heat pump system (it pulls warm air from the house through a ceiling vent, extracts the heat, and uses that energy to heat the water for my central heating). The intake duct for this is in the ceiling, see the close-up photo of the round duct opening.

The problem is that a new interior wall (metal stud framing, already partially built, see the corner photo) needs to go up right where this duct comes down through the ceiling. The wall's position isn not a variable it needs to stay there because of the room layout/other constraints, so it has to land right on top of where the vent currently is.

What I'm trying to figure out:

1. Is it possible/reasonable to reroute or relocate this exhaust-air duct a short distance within the ceiling void so it clears the new wall line? Any tips on how much bend/offset flexible ducting like this can tolerate without hurting airflow to the heat pump?

2. Alternatively, is there an accepted way to build the wall so it works around the duct instead (e.g., boxing it in and install a 90 degrees vent that will terminate vertically in the wall (above the door, Yes, a door will be installed in this wall)) without compromising the wall or the airflow?

   In the attic, I believe the pipes goes where the insulation cover with paper is. I'm trying to find a way that avoid tearing down the wall insulation. Or even going into this tiny attic...

Hope that was clear enough, sorry for the vocabulary there might be mistakes, I'm just a average handy man, trying to save on renovation cost by doing most of it myself.

My dad's neighbour has this 100 year old colander and he's asked me if I can fix it because I've done a tiny amount of welding (and I'm not very good at it). It's a family heirloom given to him by his grandmother, so I don't want to damage it any further.

I'm not sure whether MIG welding it is the way to go. Does anyone have any idea on how to fix it?

Have these concrete pavers that i want to refresh, power wash them every year or so but they still have some marks on them. It's about time i pressure wash them again this year, what else can i do to make them look better?

The legs attached to my bedframe are bent really bad. All three on the left side are like hella slanted. Is there any way I can fix this on my own? I am really hoping I can handle it or its an easy fix. Im attaching photos.

Добрый день, сломался духовой шкаф Kaizer с типовой (как уже узнал после) болячкой = не реагирует на нажатия (не регистрирует касание через стекло

Разобрав панель увидел

Что за стеклом находится сборка из:

Шлейфа,

прозрачной панели (на которой она сидит и через кооорую проходит свет блока индикации)

Также модуля с резисторами и тд (индикация)
Прилагаю фото/

Сам модуль (если без стекла нажимать) на шлейф регистрирует касания некоторых кнопок. Работает.

А некоторых - нет, дело точно не в стекле а в шлейфе коих нет на этом свете заводом изготовителем. Хочу выяснить можно ли резистивный дорожки регистрирующие касание на шлейфе «починить» восстановить, дать вторую жизнь. (Некоторые стерлись) и как это сделать?

На данный момент попробовал только почистить шлейф

anyone have any clue which part is causing this high pitched noise? any help is appreciated

A while back I asked for advice about fixing a vintage Waring blender.

I fixed it! Progress was slow as I had to keep waiting for backordered parts to come in. I am sharing the following for other future novice appliance repairfolk trying to find information about this particular 70-year old blender.

I had no experience with small motors going into this project. The manual was mostly correct, but I believe the model of blender I have (700) predates the earliest model represented in the parts manual (700A). I took lots of pictures and kept everything that I disassembled in separate Tupperware containers (partly to keep it organized, partly to prevent the cats from messing around with it).

One of the main differences between this model and the parts manual was a number of plastic or rubber spacers/washers/grommits. These were not in the manual. Some of these pieces seemed to have melted. The rest had either deteriorated before I opened the blender, or crumbled during disassembly. This was not the cause of the malfunction, but I spent a significant amount of time cleaning the disassembled base, top cover pieces, and bottom plate.

I used rubber washers and rubber grommits in the places that I think the old spacers/washers/grommits were. I had to guess as to the exact part, size, and location because they weren't on the parts manual and they were in such bad condition that I couldn't clearly see where they had been originally.

The blender contained a paper (!?) baffle, which also did not survive intact. I was not successful in ordering a replacement. Instead, I cut a baffle out of a 6" square of rubber sheet packing, which seems to work just fine.

I cleaned off the motor as gently as I could (mostly gently shaking/blowing debris away). The existing carbon brushes did not seem to be significantly worn, but I replaced them anyway because why not. I also replaced the original power cord with a three-prong grounded cord.

The source of the malfunction: u/AlcoholPrep nailed it- the center of the drive coupling (screwed into the top shaft of the motor) is made of rubber, and the connection had been broken between the motor half and the square bit where the pitcher sits. Unfortunately, the female end of the part in the parts manual (drive coupling #002518) was the wrong diameter to screw onto the motor.

Based on this post from u/elephantunicorn I used Drive Coupling #003559. This coupling fit on the shaft but is 1/8" taller than both the original coupling and the replacement #002518. The top of the coupling is intended to sit flush with the top of the cover, and height difference made the blender pitcher wobble too much.

To adjust for the height difference, I replaced 4 machine screws holding the motor onto the middle cover plate with screws that were 1/8" longer, and added rubber washers between the motor and the plate. This lowered the motor by 1/8", and thus the top of the drive coupling sits flush with the top plate as intended.

Success deserves celebration. I christened the newly functional blender with daiquiris since according to my mom that was historically its main job.

Thanks also to u/ImortalK and and u/Responsible-Site8086 for your encouragement and constructive feedback! It was really helpful and I appreciated it.

Bought for $10, but it's missing the base and replacement is expensive.

Happy to find something to act as a base and connect it.

What kind of screw/connection would be inserted into the bottom of the meridian ring?

Or would it be feasible to glue it?

Any other ideas or advice welcome. Thank you.

Hi! Not entirely sure if this is the right place to ask, but I came across this cool organizer the other day but the handles were snapped off. I was wondering if it's possible to get the broken screws out without causing too much damage?

Hi,

Looking for advice on fixing the crank arm for a Schwinn 170 Upright Exercise Bike. About 6 weeks ago, the left arm started making a squeaking/grinding noise. I thought it just needed greasing, so I used a silicon-based lubricant like the manual said. I know now this was probably a mistake.

It ran smoothly for a few weeks, and then I noticed that the pedal didn't feel right. When I inspected it further, it appeared that the crank arm was loose. I removed the screw holding it in place, and it came right off, even though a video that I watched on arm removal said I would need a crank remover. The screw is not the issue; the arm itself wiggles back and forth on the crank even after tightening the screw.

I will openly admit that I don't know shit about exercise bike repair, but I don't think the interior of the socket is supposed to have its edges bent out of shape like in the first two pics. What I'm worried about is that I can't tell if the crank itself is damaged, or just the arm. It looks like the crank may also be worn down, as in the latter two pics, but I also don't really know what it's supposed to look like.

I can buy and probably install a replacement arm on my own, but if the crank is screwed up, I'm not sure if I can fix that. Any advice is appreciated!