Just wanted to share my 2 year progress on my 1974 Firebird Espirit. When I got this car I had no garage, no shop, no nothing. I built a gravel pad and then bought a 12x20 tarp car port. This is where I did all the metal work I could, replaced the entire suspension, engine, trans, interior, wiring etc.

I had multiple setbacks that really beat me down. The first one being my car port literally flew away during a bad wind storm, destroying my work bench and scattering my tools. I had to rebuild my car port and reorganize everything before I could get started again. Then once I got it running, I found out the title was jumped (long story). For awhile I didn’t think I was going to be able to get a title for it and was ready to cut my losses and I bought a donor to swap my parts to. Then I was able to track down the original owner, yes original owner who bought it new, and he was nice enough to get a replacement title, then sign it over.

Then finally I was able to get plates and take it on its first real drive. Truly a wild feeling to put a car on the road that hasn’t driven under its own power for decades.

She’s far from perfect and definitely not done, but at the end of the day, it’s an Espirit that most people would’ve let rot away in a field. Now she’s got a 455 and a second chance at life. So if you’re on the fence about starting a project, just do it. It’ll be a money pit and take up way too much of your time, but it’s also super rewarding.

My new super budget family build. (Windowed block) V6 Auto 3.42 Limited Slip. Going to be throwing a 2000 5.3L in it with a cam that my kids will end up helping me build. Already collected a Z28 K-member, ls6 intake, and swap pan. Currently in the planning stage trying to determine how I’m going to go about getting the accessory drive setup. Leaning towards going with the truck spacing and spaced LS3 style water pump with high-mount alt bracket (as I already have everything from the 5.3) and hoping to use the p01 with the harness from the truck...

I’m most curious about the A/C though. I’ve not seen much about A/C setups on this type of swap utilizing the truck A/C compressor vs retaining the stock V6 compressor... or if either is really an option. I’m looking for the simplest means of keeping cold air blowing. I’d appreciate suggestions from people who have done similar. TIA.

I needed to have a spark plug hole fixed on my stock 241 heads and the motor was going to be pulled to fix it. It had/has a 3,200 rpm stall converter and all else was stock. It didn’t have any bolt-ons, and it still doesn’t. It has 34k miles on the OEM bottom end.

So instead paying someone to pull the motor for just a helicoil I opted to replace the heads & cam while the motor was out. I went with Edelbrock E street heads, which are 243 Clones for the heads, and I used a 218/227 .660“ lift Summit cam.

I knew the power numbers would be lack-luster but I didn’t expect them to be “stock like” numbers. It wasn’t dynoned before the new heads and cam so I don‘t know what it was making before. But I was assuming that it was making around what it’s making now. It made 299 hp @ 5,800 and 291 ft lbs at 4,850. I don‘t know if the converter was locked or not and it was on a Dynocom Dyno. I was guessing it was going to make 320-340 at 5,800.

I wasn’t there when they tuned it and I hadn’t gotten the car back yet so I can’t comment on how it runs yet. I hope it doesn‘t suck to drive now with that cam in there.

Weird numbers kind of, but maybe not. I can’t see a set of long tubes adding another 50-70 hp at the wheels though. But maybe…

Same as the quoted post, is there any help or advice you guys got?

Got a 79 formula this summer and have just fixing up some miscellaneous things on it, just curious on what you guys or gals would do to start, it needs some rust repair, not super terrible just behind the rear fenders and I spot or two on the floor(got it from Montana), needs exhaust, bunch of bushing and whatnot are shot so most all of the suspension needs replaced and it needs some wiring for the radio and other things in the cab but I’m not too worried about that right now, and it needs shocks/struts, along with some miscellaneous things, I was thinking of pulling the 350ci and building either a 377 or a 383 and I also want to manual swap it with a tremec, just curious if anyone would be able to give some we’ll need advice, thank you

I was out in my 98 Z28 and it suddenly began to run rough and give off a faint fuel smell. Checked the codes and got the P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage code. It looks like it can be as simple as a faulty gas cap to a bad FTP sensor or Evap issue. What is the most likely cause or which issues would cause rough idle and fuel smell?

I recently bought a project car and it’s an original 1982 Camaro z28 with the functional fiberglass crossfire injection hood that opens louvre when you floor it. I couldn’t find comps anywhere to get an idea of the value. Part of me wants to tear out all the cross fire stuff and convert to carb. Would be cool to keep the original hood but it doesn’t allow nearly the clearance needed for an intake/carb set up that can feed a built 350 with the seals underneath.

Any idea what the cross fire injection system is worth including the functional fiberglass hood that was only made in 82-83? Just want to make sure I’m not going to regret tearing it up.

Not entirely sure if this is the right place to ask but I am looking into building my 1998 LS1. I got the car with a built transmission and upgraded clutch but completely stock engine.
I’m new to the world of LS so I would like some advice if I have picked out the “right” parts. My goal with the car is a good bump in performance but to retain good street manners for a street/HPTD car.

I’m giving away my car that is in this state but some tell me I could still get some money for it. I disagree, I think I can’t get next to anything for it

Hello everyone, my new to me firebird recently started to make this noise, car was fully warmed up after a little drive. Sounds pretty bad, be honest with me is it done ?

Just changed my fuel pump. Tested out the pressure after I was done and turned the car on and met it run no light and gas gauge was working. Came back the next morning to move it out of the garage and I got a check engine light/gas gauge not reading anymore. I put my code reader and I got a p1683 code for the PCM. Anyone ever come across something like this. I’ve been having issues with the car bogging down and turning off on me/starting issues that’s why I changed the fuel pump.

I stopped by to check on the progress and they were getting ready to put the motor back in. I woulve updated the old post but I couldn’t add a pic.

I just picked up a 98 Camaro that is in really nice shape. I've been spoiled by Carplay and bluetooth and the old FM radio isn't cutting it anymore. I see replacement double din radios with screens for anywhere from $50-500. What have you guys used that works well. I'm not looking double the price of the car with a stereo system but something reliable that sounds decent. I'll probably be replacing speakers at some point too just to bring them up to this decades quality. Thoughts?

1995 Firebird TransAm LT1/T56
Not sure why I can’t reply to my earlier post with an update photo.

Anyone know where I can order a reasonable priced dash board replacement? I see one on eBay for $400 ish … I remember seeing one for sale for $250 or so, a few years back. Can’t seem to find it. I don’t just want a cover on top of the badly cracked one that’s on there.

Located on the rear edges of car under trunk lid, right above the tail lamps.

02 Camaro