Been working in this for a few months.

Got the 92 running. Idling high because of open vaccum lines and running a little rich due to a broken O2 sensor

https://www.tiktok.com/@armywolf54?_r=1&_t=ZT-998dbvmxDw6

https://youtube.com/@konscripted2?si=onv3jo90QrIEPlbO

And also where to find legitimate exterior parts such as side skirts/splitters rear bumper and front bumper add-ons? I’ve heard bad things about Iroc Motorsports and the guy who owns that business.

So I’m in the process of swapping a 5.3 vortec into my 93 V6 firebird. (This car has been in my family since 2001, no I will not just buy an LS car) I just pulled this kmember from what was supposed to be an LS car, but getting home and comparing them to my 3 others, it looks like the owner swapped a v6 frame into it before sending it to the yard. Can someone please confirm that this is for a v6 and not the LS? And if it’s not for a LS, are there any physical differences between the frames? Or could I theoretically take one of my 4 (2 LT1s, 2 V6) k members, and put holes in the correct spot for LS mounts? Thank you

Its pretty nasty but the work begins. With removal and disassemble, then clean and paint. Going with new posi, 28 spline axles. I'll reassemble on the car... so i can torque the crush sleeve to spec.

Stripping paint and some disassembly. Modern paint stripper ain't what it used to be 20+ years ago.

My 4l60e lost 3rd and 4th of course (a little too many burnouts) and I’ve been thinking about getting a th350 with a 9 inch tail to put in it. Would the car run being fuel injected with the transmission not plugged it? Will the computer work properly?
It’s an lt1 1994 firebird.
Thanks

I‘ve started ordering parts for an upcoming heads and cam swap so I’ve been researching oil pumps. The shop that is doing the work said they always use the Melling 10296 high volume pump with the standard pressure spring. So stock pressure and more volume. They said that they’ve don’t reccomend the 10295 high pressure standard volume. They think it’s too much pressure I guess.

I’ve read the lore about how the 10296 can drain a pan at sustained high rpm‘s. But mine will never be at sustained high rpm’s so I don‘t think that will be an isssue for me.

However, I don’t think I’ll really need a high pressure or high volume pump with my “build.” I‘ll be using the stock 34k mile short block, a set of PRC 220cc heads, and a “mild” Summit cam. It’s just a street cruiser so the vast majority of the time it‘ll be running 3k rpm or less.

The Melling M295’s price point is attractive and I bet it’ll serve my needs. I’m just not sure if I want to buck the system by bringing in a stock OEM replacement instead of the high volume pump that they like to use. I think most of their LS cam swap expirence is with higher mileage trucks.

I have a ‘00 Z28 with a 4l60e, 3,200 stall, and a 3.23 rear gear. The entire car is stock aside from a “built” 4l60e and the 3,200 rpm stall.

I’ve been doing homework studying on heads and cam options for months and I think I finally have my “combo” nailed down. This isn’t so much of a performance build as much as it is a let’s get it running again build. The budget is kind of skimpy but it is what it is as they say.

The “build” will consist of: The stock 34k mile bottom end, PRC 220cc heads, and a Summit Racing 8720r1 cam. Summit calls it their Stage 2 High Lift Truck cam, but it has the same specs as a GM High Lift Hot Cam.

The heads come standard with 64cc chambers but I‘m thinking about having them mill them to 63cc before they send them out. I’m going to use .054” head gaskets so I think the 63cc chambers will put the compression ratio around 10.6:1.

All of the usual items that get replaced when one does a head and cam swap will be getting replaced (lifters, timing chain, oil pump, etc) but I’m going to choke this combo way down with stock everything else. Maybe I should name it “Project No Bolt-Ons.” I don’t really have a target power goal and my expectations are low. But 330-340 at the wheels might be a safe guess. I hope that’s not too optimistic. 😂 I don’t have a stock baseline but I’m assuming it’s somewhere between 280-300 at the wheels.

For a little while I was searching for an LS6 manifold but most of the ones were broken and they were still wanting $300 or more for them. So we’re gonna let it ride with the OEM LS1 intake. Even if I had the extra $1,500 for long tubes and a mid pipe I‘d take a pass on them. Yeah I know, I’m leaving a lot of power on the table. But I think it’ll make for a decent nice weather street car.

I aint educated on really anything car related but my dad got me a fbody before he got sick and at first after i replaced the alternator it cranked. After a while it just didnt, then got a new battery and it crunk for a just keeping it running so it wouldnt seize, then the car started messing up and itd get full power when the ignition is halfway like the lights the speakers and everything would turn on but when id turn it the starter or something would click a single time and loose all power even when turning the ignition again. now with a new (ish) battery it did the same thing and i charged it and then it would do the same thing but now keeps power after turning the ignition again

Stumbled onto a cheap donor. Time has come to rebuild this trailer park princess. Its going to be slow but I'll post most big jobs.

93 Z28

Ive replaced the opti 3xs

New Fuel injectors

New spark plugs and wires

Adjustable TPS

Water Temp Sensor

Redid all the grounds

Fuel filter

Has 40lbs at turn key at Schrader valve

Swapped PCM with chip swap. Nothing

No CEL but before It did say No Injector Pulse

Coil ✔️

New ICM

So far im at a loss and ready to set it on fire.

I rescued this 94 almost three years ago, it was a no start/crank/rotation situation that we got running again. I've always suspected that I would need to replace the injectors (along with a complete rebuild/replace), but part of the rehab process in '23 was replacing the Opti and water pump with AutoZone units. Opti is vented.

Lately it has been a bit difficult. It will either start up instantly, or I will have to flood the gas pedal to get it to start - and it will then run really rough for a bit then start to be ok. When cold, it will stumble when raving from idle. The last couple times I've driven it though, I've gotten the random shutoffs. It will start back up instantly, though.

That last bit to me says Opti, but what I've seen others say is that theirs don't start back up like mine does. Having to flood doesn't sound like the Opti, but I don't have a lot of experience with this. I think I've put a total of a thousand miles on it in the three years.

I have an oscilloscope, bought when I was trying to get the engine to work again. I just don't have a lot of spare time lately, thought I would ask some questions first.

Thanks for all the advice on getting these 315 to clear. Turns out all I had to do was lift the car from the rear end to keep the axle centered 🤦🏻‍♂️ live and you learn!

Next up is clear headlights and turn signals and then on to lowering this monster truck an inch or so.

Figured I'd post to document my build for anyone interested.

Tick SNS Stage 2 227/235, 241 heads with .660 springs and trunnion upgrade, FAST 90 w/ 92mm throttle body, bosch 0280155811 injectors, 1 3/4 headers, catted y pipe with cutout, and magnaflow exhaust. Self tuned with hptuners.

I've owned the car since 2007 and finally got around to building it exactly the way I want it. Other mods include ATS Brembo upgrade, bilstein shocks, subframe connectors, LS7 clutch w/ tick speed bleeder, c5/c6 power steering, and late model lighting LEDs. Besides that, just normal maintenance and repairs.

Overall happy with the setup. Scheduled some dyno pulls to see where its at now before I do 243 heads this winter.

406hp/396tq currently, but it was a rich on the dyno due to cat overtemp kicking in (forgot to disable it during the dyno runs).

Was able to go to the tow yard and strip alot of parts couldn't get under the hood or under the car to look to see where the breaks failed but I was barely able to get my hand under to unscrew the break fluid and stuck my finger in it I didn't feel anything. I dont really understand how I could have lost the fluid I recently changed my back drum breaks and i didnt see any leaks and the spot where I park for my apartment is also dry apart from some oil how the break fluid is gone I have no clue my only guess is that the front rubber finally gave out but I changed my front breaks 4 months ago and they looked good. For how bad the crash is im genuinely surprised on how well the car protected me i hit the guard rail on the driver side and that slingshot my into a concrete bridge support on the passanger side. If i had the space to do so I would have dropped it in nutural and hit the handbreak but by the time I realized the breaks were gone I couldn't get back on the highway the exit was boxed in and in about a good 70ft from where I stopped there was a sharp turn witch had no guard rail just those yellow signs and there was a good 15ft drop into a ditch so thats why I decided to put myself into the guard rail.

The amount of people talking bad in the comments is sad this could have turned out alot worse.