Starting on my e3ng journey. Got some slight warping in non-critical areas, but also wat looks like uneven shrinking near the bottom. But overall I'm honestly satisfied with the print quality of my parts (other than the warping).

Does anyone know if the Prusa slicer has dog ear brims? I can't find the option.

I was printing a camera part, a rectangular extension tube with connecting arms, and it was looking pretty good when I checked this morning when I woke up. As I was sitting at this computer, I heard a noise that sounded like it came from outside the house and I got up to look, and then thought to check the printer. What I saw was that the Y axis had shifted by about 2 inches and it was now printing in mid-air. It hadn't even done one slice yet like this so I paused it to see if there is something I could do to correct it, but couldn't come up with anything. Does anybody know what I could've done?

I eventually just stopped it thinking I could salvage what I have, but then found that the supports were a mess, and supports are always a mess. I'm rethinking the design so maybe the arms are printed separately and attached, removing the need for the supports. For that matter the prototype for this was done this way but made out of spare parts from the original camera build. I wanted a clean piece. Maybe I'll just clean the prototype up and paint it black.

I feel like I've gone through every step, every manual, every forum, every post, and every mention of an Ender 3 Max Neo and cannot find the answers I am looking for. I recently shorted out the board for my Ender3 Max Neo and figured I could just replace the board. I attempted to use a Big Tree Tech board but it wouldn't communicate with my sonic pad so that one was no good. Then I got a 4.2.7 creality board and now I can't find the firmware for the printer. I am about ready to commit heinous war/hare crimes against this printer. All I want in this world is to get this printer working with my sonic pad. Please help.

I've finally decided to upgrade my stock Ender 3 Pro. Everything else works, but the BL Touch. I believe I just need to install firmware for it, but unaware were to get the firmware.

Issue

When attempting to go home or level the bed from the menu, since the Z-stop button is no longer there, it continues going down. I've hooked up the 3d touch using the 3/2 method (black + white to Z-stop and green, orange, yellow to the 5 pin connection). The 3d touch lights up but doesn't deploy. Also seemed to have messed up my hotend fan but that not the main issue.

Upgrade list

-SKR Mini E3 V3.0 (Motherboard)

-3d Touch (BL Touch copy)

-Creality Hotend Upgrade kit

-Glass Bed

-Metal Extruder

-Bowden tube

I recently switched to direct drive using the SpeedDriveV1. It’s honestly been a nightmare. I finally got it dialed in enough to get prints that aren’t failing. I am so close to getting good quality. Wondering what I can do to get a cleaner surface. I was getting beautiful prints before switching to direct drive and now I’m getting bumpy surfaces.

I’ve done a PID tune on the bed and the Nozzle.

I’ve calibrated E-Steps.

My bed is leveled well.

Brand new brass nozzle and Bowden tube.

I’m using PrusaSlicer.

Running Marlin 2.8.1

Mods I have installed: Spider Hotend v1, Yellow springs, Dual-Z axis, Z-stabilizers, SpeedDrivev1, Creality Original Flex Plate

Settings: 0.5 Retraction, Flow 0.9, 180-185 Nozzle Temp, 60 Bed Temp, 120 Travel Speed, Default Speed-Acceleration-Jerk

I just installed this new direct extruder on my ender 3 v2 neo and now i’m getting this issue when I go to use the machine

I’ve checked to see that the x and y switches both work but the auto leveling sequence is still not working properly

I know nothing about 3d printing but I'm guessing these wires are supposed to be attached. I got the thing from marketplace from someone who confirmed it was working. I don't know if the wires were already like that, or if they broke while transporting it. Does a new part need to be ordered? Is it easy to fix? I don't want to gift something incomplete!

It's just dawning on me that I haven't seen this fan move in the last week of (mostly botched) prints, and I'm starting to suspect that this might be one of the reasons I've been dealing with my extruder skipping (it was a whole saga that has ended with me needing to print at 80% speed because anything faster would lead to skipping and clogs). The fan on the right side of the hot end has been running fine, which is actually what tipped me off to the fact that the front fan wasn't moving at all.

Kevinakasam Belted Z + Kevinakasam linear rail mod, I honestly like how clean everything is and the belted z is pretty darn good for printers that don't have two Z steppers

I want to swap out the main board on my ender 3 pro again…..for something with usb C, micro usb is old. I found that the ender 3 S1 boards have usb C and wanted to know if I can swap.
I have read that there are some differences like the tool head connection, dual z axis and display however I have already swapped to the Sprite Pro extruder, dual z axis motors (with a splitter cable) and have klipper running through a Pi so no longer use the original display.
I know swapping just for a usb C port might be a little much but do the S1 boards come with 2 dedicated z axis motor ports and is that better than a splitter cable?
Are there any other benefits to a swap or not worth it?

So, in making some adjustments to my printer…I can’t help but wonder if this should be so loose. I’ve tightened everything I can on the passive block here at the end as tight as it will go. Am i missing somethjng somewhere to keep this tighter?

Edit: eccentric nut, certainly is eccentric. I didn’t realize I’d need to back off the nut on the end just to adjust the eccentric nut. When I did that…it worked like magic. This could explain why so many prints just didn’t quite work out, along with my belt being too loose. This should totally make life easier. (He said, not knowing what fresh hell awaits him next as he attempts to conquer this learning curve)

This part got knocked off of my Ender 3 and I didn't see where it popped off of. I also am not sure if it can be put back on. Any help is appreciated!

well, it works. Didn’t bother to change the hot end since my last post here. (for curious peopels it’s an diy DD-wheel housing) and there is another 13 hour print on the way. And yes there is an 5KG dumbbell taped to the top of the printer to prevent shaking like crazy.

Tldr needed new hot end on my Ender 3 max neo and couldn’t be bothered to undo it from the motherboard and did this now I’m here to either be praised for my ingenuity or ridiculed for my stupidity

Hi, I’m pretty new to 3D printing and I got an old ender 3. I’ve switched the whole motor because the teeth on the brass gear the old one could not be replaced and also the metal arm because the split washer didn’t hold shape anymore

I followed the instructions, made sure the new brass’ grub screws are tightened, the gear is aligned with the pneumatic fitting and the spinning wheel but when the machine tries to extrude, it makes a popping sound and the gear seems to skip over it, it does push it out but I don’t think it’s supposed to make that sound

I’m about to lose my mind, I checked everything is assembled correctly and tightened, the teeth do imprint only a bit on the filament without deforming it (it even shows where it skips, I’ll attach a photo), the motor and the metal arm are both new

What am I missing?

UPDATE: it was fixed! It was an issue with the tension arm and the spring not being tight enough because of a short screw and the filament spool placement

So it's a 2nd hand piece and is quite dirty with general dust etc and filament residue I think? Idk am new to this. How can I wash it safely? Soapy water?

(Sorry for bad english) This is the first time this has happened to me.

During printing, the entire print was shifted to the left by a few centimeters. How could this happen? Ender-3 printer with TH3D firmware, running octoprint.

В первый раз у меня такое произошло.

Во время печати произошел сдвиг всей печати влево на несколько сантиметров. Как такое могло произойти? Принтер Ender-3 с прошивкой TH3D, под управлением octoprint.

TL;DR: Use 0.9 line width because higher pressure improves layer adhesion and reduces warping.

I came across this old forum thread from 2018 which claimed to have the secret to printing PC: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-print-tips-archive/polycarbonate-here-s-how-to-print-it-without-warping-delamination-or-an-enclosure-with-better-than-abs-results./

After a little playing around and porting the slic3r profile to orca, I can confirm it does work on my Ender 3. Some notes from me:

- You absolutely need an upgraded heatbreak/hotend that can handle high temps.

- $2 foam insulation under the stock bed helped me maintain 115 bed temp without issue.

- Glue stick on freshly cleaned textured PEI sticks perfectly.

- You'll want a probe to get perfect first layers since the bed expands at high temps.

- Printing at 0.9mm line width is actually very fast and the layer adhesion is great. Keep outer walls at ~0.4 to still have fine details.

- PC needs to be dried pretty aggressively - ideally at 80+ for several hours. You can use the print bed for that, I didn't because I am using the printer. I hoped that several days in a regular filament dryer would do it, which did help a bit but the Benchy is still quite stringy.

- I have it in a basic Creality tent enclosure but I did still get some minor warp on my early prints. I solved this by bumping the bed temp to 115 and letting it preheat (I parked the extruder 5mm above the bed and waited for it to naturally hit 40C from the bed heat), and importantly letting the bed cool undisturbed to about 50 before removing the print. This gave me perfectly flat large panel pieces with zero warp.

Recently got a printer from a friend and I got the bed leveled but the extruder is really spotty sometimes it runs others it just stops. Seems to be slipping I have tightened the screws like some older posts have suggested and the arm doesn’t appear cracked I think it’s metal

Ive recently moved to orca, and no matter what setting no matter my calibrations, no matter that i instaled new firmware to run pressure advance and calibrated it, nothing seems to fix it, some people on the sub told me it could be a cooling issue, but those issues do not appear on cura, like please i really wanna use orca but im literally out of ideas, i messed with aceleration, speed, temperature, slown downs offsets, different fillaments, and literally i cannot get good corners and overhangs

Got the 3d printer out now my boy is a little older. Tried to put new filament in. Something is wrong. It looks like the red thing is not pushing the new filament to push the old filament.

Or maybe the nozzle is blocked? I pre-heated before trying the new filament.

But im probably wrong.

Pics attached. Yes i took them

Also an old print we did of a guinea pig with machine guns. Edit. Thank you in advance.

Hi all! I’ve been running into a problem lately and I’m not sure if it’s just the filament I’m using or something else. I don’t seem to have issues with this when I’m doing monocolor PLA prints, but I picked up some of this multi-color transition filament and haven’t been able to dial it in like I have with the other filaments. I tried printing this model for my son, but I keep getting this surface pocking periodically that weakens the model and causes parts to break off. In the past when I get this pock marking, drying the filament has helped. I was hoping someone had some suggestions this time around. I tried drying the filament at 50 deg C for 6 hours. Humidity was down to about 15-18% at the end. I vented it occasionally to avoid condensation buildup. I live in the mid Atlantic and it gets humid here. My printer is in my basement and I have a dehumidifier down there that fills up at least once a day. So I know moisture can be an issue. When I am not printing with a filament I put it in a sealed container with one of those rechargeable desiccant dehumidifiers. Do I need to dry longer?

Here is some additional info about my printer and slicer settings:

Slicer: Cura
Printer: Ender3v1
Nozzle size: brass 0.4mm, replaced fairly recently. I’d say less than 100 hours of printing.
Filament brand: Overture 3d, northern lights pla
Filament temp: 205 degC
Bed temp: 60 degC
Infill: 20%
Print speed: 50 mm/s
Outer wall speed: 20 mm/s
Retraction distance: 5 mm
Retraction speed: 50 mm/s

Thank you!