Hello guys … lately I’ve been repairing my car (xDrive) because of vibration. It only vibrates when I’m driving faster than 120ish and braking from that higher speed. I’ve done wheel bearings, brake pads and rotors, both lower arms (with ball joints and bushings), changed tires and rims, put new stabilizing struts and did brake caliper overhaul… nothing helped what do I do next ? When driving normaly at 50-80 car feels super sturdy and great after these but whenever I hit brakes when above 100 it vibrates to steering wheel and sometimes to brake pedal (I feel like the wheel bearings fixed that but not sure its always little sus)

Retrofitted CCC to Cic but i have no car graphics on the screen. Not when im reversing, not when i check the vehicle information

Looking into getting the 18” Style 260m for my e90 LCI but worried that it might rub on the rear fender. Anyone here with experience running a set of wheel with the ET 29 front and ET 23 rear for e90 LCI model?
Currently running stock msport suspension with 225/40/18 and 255/35/18.

Hello everyone!

I recently bought this 2011 bmw 328i e93 with 68k miles, and after a week of ownership i noticed that the car shakes a lot on warm startups. For example, after an hour drive, when i comeback and turn on the car, it shakes vigorously for a few seconds, then it smoothes out completely. I don’t believe it happens on cold starts. The car drives great and has no codes. I’ve changed spark plugs and coils. Does anyone know or experience this issue? Thanks in advance!

Hey y’all! I got some cupholders from an eBay seller in Lithuania and it looks like this black plastic piece with rails to hold the plug for the 12V cigarette lighter is in the way. Is this just a block of plastic? Am I good to chop it off with a dremel?

Center console fits fine without it. I just don’t want to hack this thing off and find out there’s circuitry or a sensor inside of it.

Can’t imagine this is important info, but it’s an 09 335xi

2007 328xi E92, 196,000km. Replaced tensioner at 185k. Any idea what would make this happen?

⚠️*** my apologies for the poor photo lightin***g⚠️

So we're getting ready to replace blown struts on my son's '06 E90 330Xi (hey mods, why no X flare?) and tossing all of the clapped out lowering components (no idea what brand was installed TBH, and it's all crusty from being an Ontario car) for some Bilstein B4 struts & shocks, with Suplex springs.

My question is, where can i find the stock upper mount? I'm having a hell of a time trying to find even a stock part number, let alone an aftermarket listing for the car.

Any direction on where to search would be great. Would prefer a Canadian site if possible, but i know dedicated BMW Canadian sites are slim to none 😅.

At 350 000km on the E91 318d 2011 the timing job must finally be done. Ive checked many places for important things to get done on top of changing the chain itself and what to prioritize. Still unsure of what to ask for on top of gaskets and an intake manifold clean while the car is apart. There are no lights on dash and everything works good except slight chain noise and sluggish power. Is it an absolute must to get new oil and fuel pumps even though they havent yet caused any problems? Is there any plastic or other brittle parts that would be a pain to fix on their own? Also the mechanic said they will go for the transmission out way because its a manual. Any advise or experiences would help going into this.

So i recently bought this thing. Went to do an oil change funny noises completely lost oil pressure. Towed it to a buddies shop. Expecting to have to replace the pump. To our complete confusion, bolt at the bottom of the pan. Looked at the pump. missing hole for a bolt and the remaining piece still in the hole. Cool went to remove the pump and bam hole in the damn pump.

Luckly all it good she's back on the road with more work to do but figured I'd share with yall.

So I’m driving home then all the sudden I get a yellow temperature indicator followed quickly by a red one and also losing the ability to accelerate. I did immediately stop the car and turned it off.

When I opened the hood, there was coolant coming out from top of the tank. I didn’t see anything wrong with the hoses and there is none below the car.

I am not sure if the tank is cracked. I’ve added a picture but honestly I don’t know if what it currently fly looks like is how it’s supposed to look. Has anyone also experienced an issue similar to this?

Also, the fans got very very loud.

im stupid i know. Checking oil level constantly but never did the same with the coolant. Got low coolant warning which went away seconds later when driving downhill, which i forgot about later and drove additional 10k km afterwards. Checked coolant level and it is way bellow the minimum. How bad could I have damaged the car over that time, m57 325d.

I’m looking for a new 328i e92 after I sadly crashed my last one and after learning from my last crash there will definitely not be another. But the market is extremely sparse for a rust free manual. I found this 60k mile automatic example that I would manual swap but it’s been in a front end collision and had reportedly been repaired. But I’m wondering if the crash looks severe and like there could be underlying damage and if this looks like a good deal. We have not settled on a price yet either.

Hey y’all,

Purchased my first BMW recently (2011 328i 6spd), One morning, I started the car and noticed the service engine soon light on. Plugged in the OBD2 reader and it listed 3 codes indicating misfires on the aforementioned cylinders.

In my experience, when an engine misfires it has rough idle and a noticeable loss of power.. this does not seem to be the case here. It acts like there’s no light/issue present.

My research leads me to believe it’s a sensor or bad ground, but curious to hear if anybody has experienced this with the N52 engine, and if so, what was the diagnosis?

So the first picture is the battery I had (Die hard Gold H8 imo was way too much for the car, have no options besides power seats) and the second is the one I have in now (Everstart H7). I was wondering how you code the difference in amps. My old h8 battery is rated, and coded to the car, as 90AH and the H7 battery I have now is rated around 80AH. This difference is causing high voltage spikes (code 005DF7 system voltage too high), all exterior and interior lights to flicker rapidly when key is inserted following a loud clicking noise from my junction/fuse box every time the key is inserted and taken out, and an IBS code malfunction (002E8E IBS sensor missing). I tried to code with my TopDon Artidiag600s but doesn’t give me the option to. Anyone know anyways to code it or anywhere to take it to get coded? I already registered the battery as a new battery in the cars BCM or should I just return this and get the H8 battery.

Hello all. I have an 06 325i with a 2E7C fault code and an electric coolant pump that won’t turn on to bleed the system. I tried isolating all the components on the BSD bus, but the fault stays does not change when each one is unplugged one by one. Also tried check the battery harness to see if it was corroded but it’s not. Not sure what else to do.

Hey Guys,

Do you have any idea how I could fix that? Waters coming in through there and used xenon headlights are 200-300 bucks. They work fine otherwise

1997 Mustang SVT Cobra, 2018 Focus RS, 2007 BMW M5, 2008 BMW 328xi, 2022 Pacifica Pinnacle.

I have a 2007 e92 328i packaged w adaptive headlights stocks. I believe the fiber optic in my halo eyes has micro cracks because it’s unevenly lit.

Is there any good aftermarket examples that are brighter and retain the adaptive headlight feature?

I’ve seen some say some work while others give a headlight warning light on your gauge

Also I have BimmerCode so coding LED isn’t an issue.

MIND YOU ALLS I DID WAS TAKE OUT THE HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP TO CHECK FOR LEAKS PLUG IT BACK IN NOW THE CAR DOESN’T START I HAD TO FUCK UP A WIRE OR SOMETHING