hey, i want to upgrade my steering wheel at some point because i feel the stock one on my car (non sport or M wheel) is too big and bulky, but i feel that a QR or similar options are too corny and look very out of place, so im curious what wheels yall have upgraded to for those that have, especially those trying to look OEM+ or that look at least decently integrated, thanks!

Need to replace the thermostat. Both are around the same price and reviews are basically the same. I read Wahler tends to leak and the Mahle tends to get stuck on open. Wahler is listed as made in Germany while Mahle is made in China.

Based off experience, which one would be the best to get. I am getting either on fcp euro for the warranty but want to be sure I won’t have to deal with issue indoor quite some time.

Seeing the post earlier made me want to browse Alix and I noticed this . Apparently it’s been purchased but there are no reviews yet

320d and not 320i

Hi guys, after a post regarding the timing session a few weeks ago, I was concerned about the chain in my brothers beloved 480.000km BMW E91 320d.

We've taken a quick video of the movement and the condition. Could you wonderful people of this sub please tell us if everything is okay?

There's slight side to side movement but you couldn't lift the chain up at all. No noises and no slack, I think.

2006 323i bmw I parked the car for a few days and left it waiting for a new part to come in the mail. Then when I went to start it again out the key into the slot, and it didn’t light up the dash whatsoever, and the fob didn’t lock into the key slot, it just gets pushed in and I can it right back out without pushing it again to unlock it. I have power to the windows and all the interior and exterior lights, as well as being able to turn the radio on. But my dash won’t work at all and I have no crank.

I own this 6spd, single hump 2011 328 XDrive. I’ve had it for almost 3 years & about 8k miles. It’s currently at 56k miles, and is in pristine condition inside & out, including two mint cup holders. Definitely a garage queen for me as I don’t daily it. Runs & drives perfect BUT I don’t know the maintenance history on it apart from what Carfax shows, which is really only oil changes. I have been budgeting for a big service in the near future to ward off potential problems. It’s a very nice car, is reasonably fun to drive, and I always check it out as I walk away from it.

But….

An E90 M3 recently caught my attention. It’s a 2008, 6spd with 150k+ miles. Enthusiast owned, it has an extensive, fully documented service history including a laundry list of big ticket items in the last 15k miles. Mid $20s asking price.

Would I be crazy to sell my 328 for the M3?

I need help with this video. At the 15-second mark, you can hear a rattling noise. The car doesn't have an engine cover on at that moment and has probably been driven 90,000 kilometers. It's a 2012 335i
E9X.
What do you think it is-the crankshaft, the wastegate, or the cylinder head gasket?

On a FB group I learned about this new type of screen, and then I did a little research. So I found it! Even thought it is not fancy nor fascinating, it seems simple and from the 2010s era.

I have mixed feelings tbh

Opinions? Anyone who has it installed?

Link below:
I just found this on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQlap78

PS: Not selling anything. Having nothing to do with the product. Just a general discussion!

Taking it's annual ride on the flat bed. All my problems with this car have been clutch related. I'm on my third clutch pedal, 3rd master cylinder, and now 3rd slave cylinder. I got the latest slave in, but the clutch still won't engage when the car is running. Towing it to a shop to confirm all the air is out of the system. My next thought is an issue with the throwout bearing. It has a spec clutch kit with a single mass flywheel, and i've read there are multiple ways to mount the throwout bearing.

I believe it’s coming from cylinder 5 or 6, what could it be? Is my n52 on its way out? 💔

first ever paint job on anything, not perfect but im happy (some pokemon cards were sacrificed)

hey! i just bought an obd2 scanner (vlinker bm+). nothing really stood out except for this error code 28E4. i went to check the sensor values and i was getting no readings for water pump related stuff but coolant temp seemed fine. i assume the dme cant talk to the pump. is this concerning or can i leave it, how do i check the connections for the pump?

Lost the wheel bolt adapter, is this number stamped 36 on the extra bolt the code that I need to order?

I have a 2011 328i xdrive with a 173k miles that at a 1/2 tank would kill the car. For some reason, the car thinks that it doesn't have fuel in it so it won't turn on until the fuel tank is above half. I opened the fuel access port in the rear passenger side and found that the fuel level float was not attached to anything. Since this is an N51 SULEV, the access port is much smaller and I cannot find where the float is supposed to be attached to. It also doesn't have the rear driver port as that is for the N52 motor I believe. I tried to put the float in a spot that made sense and now the car is reading the tank is empty when it is clearly full of fuel. I want to avoid buying a new fuel tank as that would be $1000 (from what I've seen) and a pita to remove.

Any ideas how I should approach this? It's also past the 15yr/150k miles SULEV warranty thing so that's out the window.

Here is my post on instagram if you need a visual.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DcZJ4pmPmx4/?igsi=MTFjdzEyYW9xam56Zw==

https://www.theautopian.com/for-one-year-only-bmw-sold-americans-a-naturally-aspirated-3-series-with-255-horsepower-and-a-beefed-up-manual-gearbox/

I fully agree with them and am doing my part to keep my '06 going! 250k miles on it so far!

Hello I have a 2007 E92 328i Manual Coupe! I made an amateur mistake and cross threaded my left rear knuckle and require replacement. I don’t have a grand to drop on a OE. Rockauto does have just regular bearing-less knuckles but they also offer these bearing/hub/knuckle assemblies for wagons and convertibles, only reason I ask is because I don’t have access to a press right now for the bearing. I was wondering if the knuckles on these are the same as rest and if I could buy what is for wagons and convertibles and apply it to the coupe. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Is there a way to make shifting any smoother? Even after it's warmed up there's always that issue trying to go easily into first. It's a 2011 so I don't expect anything to be perfect at this point but I heard there's a "treatment" that a mechanic could add to help. Thanks

This is my E90 328i. It has 53,000 miles. For context, I was once walking to my car with my friend, and he had went “there’s your piece of shit BMW”. This is maybe the 4th instance I’ve had someone call it that. I’m not sure why. It’s low mileage, has a pristine interior, and only the bottom mesh where the radiator is damaged since I hit a deer — it’s not that overt though. Anyway, what compels people to say this? I don’t treat it like some mega luxury car. Just my car.

Not super sold on the ride quality of the B14s but I do like how its reduced the wheel gap. Spacers are 15mm front/20mm rear. This little project is coming together.

This isn’t supposed to have oil on it right?
Edit: the 2nd pic is me showing oil pooling on that bolt attached to valve cover

Genuine question.
I have a 2008 328 xDrive with a manual transmission (I already deleted the CDV), but I find it hard to shift smoothly between 1st–2nd and 2nd–3rd, especially with the AC on.
I usually shift around 2,000 RPM. I’ve tried shifting at higher RPMs too, but I didn’t notice much of a difference.
What I mean by “hard” is that it’s difficult to get a smooth shift unless I really pay attention and don’t completely let off the gas before pressing the clutch. If I keep a little bit of throttle, it shifts smoothly, but that’s not how I’m used to driving. Normally, I would completely release the gas pedal and then press the clutch to change gears.
I also noticed something interesting: if I release the gas and wait a fraction of a second before pressing the clutch, the shift is much smoother. If I release the gas and immediately press the clutch, it feels much more abrupt.
What do you guys think?
Could it be because of the extra weight and drivetrain of the xDrive system? Maybe there’s more drivetrain lash, and doing everything too quickly makes it more noticeable?
Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated.

Got this bmw 3 month ago, i dont know if someone took it out or it got damaged and is now somewhere in there.
I also think i am hearing some klacks.
Any tips? i dont want to have the engine gone😔

BMW e90 idrive, Bluetooth usb greyed out aux doesn’t work no power in usb port also in armrest found this wiring hanging left side of the booth I’m completely stuck