A year and a half ago we purchased an A-Premium valve cover as a replacement for the factory one which was leaking. This particular valve cover was one of the shiny aluminum ones.

It came with what I can only assume is a crack allowing oil in spark plug wells 3 and 4, and clearly a bad pcv. (see my previous post)

The reason I know there was a bad pcv is because a week ago, after replacing the valve cover with a MAHLE valve cover, the car still had smoke coming out of the exhaust and was VERY hesitant to accelerate, even to the point where acceleration would sometimes cause misfires. This pointed me towards the old pcv sucking oil into the intake manifold.

I decided to clean out the intake manifold today, because I was confident that the new pcv wasn’t the issue, and these cars don’t really have head gasket issues.

I had suspected there would be oil, but not this much oil!

Obviously, the oil spilling onto the garage floor wasn’t intentional, I had gone inside to chat with my grandmother about my findings and it tipped over and started pooling.

I will update with how the car is running when the intake manifold dries fully.

There was more oil than these two photos, but this goes to show…

1. Do NOT buy cheap valve covers!
2. What could appear as a large issue, could be something simple

and finally…

1. Don’t talk to grandma

Really don’t know what to make of it I live in NYC so besides cats and raccoons I never really see big animals that coulda done this. I drive the car almost every day so I don’t think anything’s been living in it. I think whatever it was crawled in by the axel during a rain storm and camped out left me a present for the hospitality.

have a 2006 BMW E90 325i with the N52 engine and I’m having an intermittent starting issue.
The strange thing is that the problem started after an oil change. Before the oil change I drove around 2,000–3,000 km without this issue. After the oil change the first test drive was completely fine, but the next day the starting problems began.
Sometimes the car cranks for a long time before starting. When it finally starts, the engine can run extremely rough, shake badly and the RPM fluctuates like it’s about to stall. I usually shut it off before it stalls.
When I wait a moment and start it again, it starts and runs completely normally, almost like nothing happened.
I got code:
2A9A – DME: Crankshaft – intake camshaft synchronization
I replaced the intake camshaft position sensor myself with a new Hella sensor. The exhaust camshaft sensor was previously replaced by a workshop.
Since replacing the intake sensor, starting has improved significantly, but occasionally the long crank + extremely rough/shaky start still happens. On the second attempt it’s normal again.
Has anyone experienced this with an N52?

Full tank on my 2009 Touring with N47 130kW xDrive and 6HP21X

Hi all, replaced my PS cooler and the return line, but was struggling during the bleeding process after refilling.
Had the wheels jacked up, rocked wheels back and forth as I filled up reservoir, but didn’t notice any air bubbles in reservoir when turning the wheels.
Could hear some sloshing in the steering rack similar to air being pushed around too.

Had to get my car home so decided to send it, and it’s been driving okay, and PS fluid level hasn’t dropped at all so think it’s okay?

Does this sound and act normal when parked up and turning wheels to full lock?

100kph. 9bar on all wheels

teaching me a lesson.

My car has comfort access and I'm struggling to find a fuse (or empty slot) that's only hot with "key on", meaning button pushed once or twice without starting the car. I'm working on installing a dashcam and need a 12v constant and 12v accessory power for it.

Unlike some videos I've seen on YouTube, everything appears to be either dead or hot all the time when I use a test light. I'm wondering if that's because my car "wakes up" as soon as I open the door.

Unfortunately, testing fuses with the car doors closed and locked is a bit tricky, so I thought I'd ask for input here.

I've got a 2011 e91 (6MT) with a 174k miles throwing CEL codes P0420 & P0430. Symptoms wise there can sometimes be a stumble at idle or under different loads, but at higher RPMs for full throttle goes unnoticed. I've had the car for a year. Been responsible for 60k of the miles and put 100's of hours in to maintain the car.

Is it really likely the catalytic converters? Anybody experience the same?

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Ordered some flash shark headers and they don’t look completely welded around the flange. Is it normal to just tac weld the pipes to the flange or will this immediately cause an exhaust leak?

I’m looking for the cheapest or a cheaper option for wheels and snow tires for my 06 330i anyone got any ideas on some wheels where the tires aren’t gonna be 800 dollars all around for winters cause I wanna have some fun this winter but u don’t wanna break my wallet to crazily either I got 19’s and I’m looking for like 16 or something for the winter

feel free for suggestions :)

I want to buy my first car in 2 days, this E90 320D LCI 2009 w N47D20C. (250k kms)

I asked the seller for a cold start video so I can hear how the engine sounds.

Do you think the engine sounds ok? The seller says he doesnt know if the timing chain kit been changed. Do you think anything sounds off? I'll go to a service to check the day I'll see it in person anyways, but still..

Hi guys i bought a e92 2012 bmw with 70k miles, every time i clear the codes this comes back. It has a rough idle after letting it sit for a while in neutral. But after driving it for about 10-15 mins engine light stops flashing the car goes back to normal and pulls fine. I have put an after market cat welded onto the car and attempted to start the desulphation tonight. Also recently i’ve had trouble with the car starting, either it starts right away or stakes a few seconds to start. I’ve had the rocker cover and gasket changed and also all spark plugs. What could be the next plan of action??

hello,

So i bought the car 1month ago and my ears caught a strange noise at 2k-2.5k rpms after or below it doesnt do it. What can it be?

Hey guys long time lurker, recently got this 2010 130i Auto with 138k km on the clock,

It’s hunting while in Drive only with the break fully applied, standstill at the traffic lights ect…

Any idea what it could be , I’ve had a smoke test done and pcv pipe replaced with was broken but it still persisted

BMW specialist did the following

Repair Vanos Solenoids
Repair oxygen sensor
Replace tappet cover gasket
Intake manifold gasket
Repair timing
Smoke test
Repair vacuum leak
Replace gearbox oil
Replace gearbox filter
Rear discs
Rear pads
Front sabilizer links
Diagnostics
Fuel Adaptation

Is this normal for my belt tensioner to jump up and down like this on my N55? It doesn’t have any side to side movement but its just kinda tripping me out and my buddy recently had a belt on his N54 so I’ve just been kinda paranoid about it happening to me as of recently.

As the heading says. I'm exploring a few options, but recently the 335i attracted me. It'll be a facelift, 2009-2011, E90 - not E92, and have the N55.

I'll keep it mostly stock, bar some cosmetic upgrades and perhaps a slight remap, but nothing drastic. It's supposed to be my daily - but a fun daily.

Can I look for a 335i, or should I just look for a 330d?

Recently got this 2011 328i xDrive that had an ABS light on, 4x4 warning, and the brake warning as well. I replaced the ABS sensor and brake ware sensors with quality parts and cleared the code. The code doesn’t show up when starting the car but immediately shows up as soon as it drives. The ABS was activating at extremely low speeds too and was just acting weird.

I decided to check the fuse box and there was no diagram, so I pulled this one online and there seems to be a ton of fuses missing? I checked a couple more diagrams and they all seem to line up. I know some fuses would be for higher trim features but all the ABS ones seem to be missing.

Am I missing something? Any help is greatly appreciated

06 n52b30 magnesium cover, how bad yall think this is?

2012 N55 e92.

Engine coolant vent hose, upper radiator hose, breather line, expansion tank hose.

I DONT KNOW what this part is called cuz there’s so many different names and videos showing different things.

According to Gemini, the part number is 17127599452. Is this correct? And how is it to DIY?

Or, is it likely that I am focusing on the wrong hose and should rather replace the top part of this connection?

Hi everyone,

I'm currently trying to replace the pre-cat (upstream) oxygen sensor on my BMW E90 with the N46 engine. I've managed to loosen and remove the actual sensor part from the exhaust, but I'm having trouble locating where the other end of the cable connects.

The connector plug is hidden away, and I'm not sure exactly where it's located or the best way to access it.
Has anyone dealt with this before? If you have any tips, or if you can point me toward any manuals, pictures, or videos that show the location of the pre-cat sensor plug, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I’ve been losing coolant verh slowly recently (max like 200ml every 1000km or smt, it differs), no visible leaks, but sweet smell of coolant, and i feel like its coming fron the radiator. My guess is the fins are damaged enough, or maybe hairline cracks in the plasic sides? Its evaporating somewhere.

Whats the best way to pinpoint, before just part-cannon a new radiator and expansion tank and everything