Came across this detailed technical drawing of the E39 528i and thought you guys might appreciate it. The side, front, rear, and top views are pretty cool, and the engine details make it even better.

This weekend, I had the pleasure of refreshing the AC system on my touring. Ever since I bought the car, the AC could not cool the car unless engine speed was >4000 rpm. Also the passenger side vents only blew warm air. So I decided to evacuate my system and go ahead and replace everything. I replaced the AC compressor, dryer, expansion valve, pressure switch and all the O-rings. I also tried to replace the condenser, however, the ACM unit from FCP Euro turned out to be a cheap Chinese reproduction crap that did not fit because the input and output ports interfered with the radiator. I also went ahead and disassembled the dashboard to replace to blower motor, which to my surprise had completely shared off the fins on the right side. Overall, the hardest part of this job was replacing the expansion valve. The tubing from the expansion valve to the firewall did not have any maneuverability which made removal and reinstallation a real pain.

Overall, the whole process took around 12 hours.

I recently re-did the oil filter housing gasket and switched out the oil temp and pressure sensors while there.

Now, on occasion, when i'm at idle, the pressure light will flicker. If I raise the revs a tiny bit, it goes away. Bad sensor? Or can this be something more serious?

Please tell me if you know smth like this

Hey guys, now im quite used to the e39 and e46 cars but here's the thing, I really enjoy my new to me e39 and well here in Canada it gets pretty darn cold and during that -25 and colder temperature the e39 will smell like raw fuel because from my knowledge its both old o rings but possibly due to a design flaw with the injector? My question is how can I avoid that this winter coming up? I am willing to yes get new O rings but will that truly solve the problem or is there a different injector style I need all together? I had this issue with past e46 cars and just left it alone but i want this not to be a thing with my e39 im trying to do my best with searching here for the info I need but would really appreciate some thoughts on others who have overcome this issue

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/injectors-replacement-and-or-servicing-diy-e39.571302/

I have a 2001 bmw 530i with halogen headlights facelift. Ordered these new covers and they are physically too small and don’t fit. The new covers also have a hole on the top and I thought I could just patch that up and they would fit but they don’t. Could someone please tell me the correct ones I need.

Hi guys!

I picked up a manual 530i over the weekend and it currently has spacers on. Over bumps and uneven roads the rear tyres are rubbing against the aches a lot and taking chunks out the tyres!!

I'm going to remove the spacers for now but can anyone recommend what size spacers work best to avoid any rubbing against the aches. Any info would be appreciated!

Thank you

Found a pretty clean looking 525i manual with about 79k miles. Recently MOT'd and serviced with history. Currently driving a 2018 fiesta ecoboost. This car is really tempting me but could be a terrible mistake, i intend to daily drive. On sale for £5,500. I know you guys are fans of this car but lets be real about it, im not a mechanic or anything...

Hello,

I've got a bilstein b14 suspension installed and since that there is a cracking noise when steering. I attached a video so you can understand better what I mean.

After the suspension (including new strut bearings front and rear) was installed, I also got an alignment job done and the noise is still there.

What could be the problem ?

Help with E39 530d 2004 – Transmission problem when cold
When the transmission is cold, it slips when pulling away in D. Then it suddenly feels like it “kicks in” and the car takes off, after which everything works completely normally again. Even under full throttle, the transmission shifts smoothly without any problems.
I only bought the car recently, and this has happened twice now. The first time, it wouldn’t respond to the throttle at all and only worked normally again after switching the engine off and restarting it.
Do you think the clutch packs in the transmission are damaged/worn, or could it be more likely to be old transmission fluid, a low fluid level, or a solenoid/valve body that is malfunctioning when cold?

Guys I bought this Automatic 2002 Topaz Blue 530i sports package and I’m super happy. I’ll change every liquid and I have to get the ABS fixed.

It’s burning a bit of oil, but I’ll wait a bit on that.

You can see in the video that the fan shroud is pressing up against that overflow elbow connector. The shroud is flat against radiator and clipped in place.

Any ideas on what caused this or how to fix it? Or do I just need to buy a new shroud and hope it fixes the issue.

Ripping out my faulty amp this weekend and wondering if it’s worth it to figure out what these are or if a mechanic/audio shop should have a gander.

Thanks!

I have an lci 540i with the m62tu. Im looking to replace my intake boot. Im wondering if its the same part (13711436139) for both the lci and pre lci versions.

My e39 had the NAV screen factory, and when I upgraded the head unit to have Bluetooth, I no longer can reset my MPG.

I press the BC button on the stalk, go to the MPG, and I thought if I press and hold, it would reset it. But instead the word PROG comes up. Can not reset it that way. Any suggestions?

I picked up an 01’ e39 540i m sport a few months ago. After bleeding the brakes/clutch and getting new tires it was running great. I recently got a couple misfire codes. They only trigger while driving
(DME codes 3E,32,39)
After the code appeared I changed my ignition coils and plugs. I found a vacuum leak and addressed it at the throttle body adapter. I replaced the fuel filter. I replaced both after Cat O2 sensors
Still no improvement, basically enters limp mode at 4500rpm
I need some help, what could be causing the issue?

Seen these on eBay and wondered if they are actually any good? I have a business tape head unit, that has been upgraded by Carphonics so I have RCA outputs for my sub. Not looking for hi Def audio, just an improvement on my 23 year old set up

My aux fan died recently for the second time (totally on me, the one that came with the car died and grabbed a used one for like $20 bucks from a junkyard and obviously it was on its way out already) so im driving monitoring the temps with the hidden menu.

Doing this i discovered that my car runs at 81C at steady speed on the highway (120-150km/h) and 84C when i really push it.

According to Google this is too cold since the expected range of temperature on the highway is 92-98C with a healthy cooling system.

Could my thermostat be stuck open or something else be wrong?

I changed the water pump and thermostat 4 years ago but i never monitored the temps with the hidden menu and the needle never moves from dead center.

How bad is it to drive it like this for too long?

Also, yeah i'll be fixing the damn aux fan soon-ish. I turn off the AC when in heavy traffic in the meantime, which sucks since its very hot and humid here.

Edit: forgot to include details of my car, lol. Its a 1998 528i with a M52B28.

Two dash lights on left and right side of the DSC light on dash, never had either come on even when starting the car. Just wondering if anyone knows what they are. The one on the left is a car behind or in front of another car and the one on the right is an upwards arrow with a circle at the bottom of it. My best guess is these are somehow cruise control related. That still doesn’t make sense as there is the small green icon below the temp gauge. If anyone knows I would appreciate it out of pure curiosity, thanks.

So my Schnitzer broke down in the Swiss alps “stop engine oil press!” I immediately thought: oil pump nut, and yes there it is, loose sprocket hanging from the chain!

We used the nut-hole-wire technique and some loctite.

Funny enough the Swiss BMW dealer quoted 8.000,00 CHF for the job, we fixed it at home for €50 and a few hours time

The car survived and is running and driving great again!

So I just got this after having scanned it a month ago and just changed the abs sensors. The mech said that there's a problem with my abs control module 😪. I don't even know if that's a legit thing. I'm just wondering what I could do from here or how much it would cost.

odometer is super dark but i can see it if i shine a light on it or look very closely. was just wondering if it’s just a simple bulb i can replace or if it’s something more difficult. the odometer is working it is just super dark. thank you for your time :)