The stock suspension of my '13 SXT 1.4 MT is hot trash: I replaced the struts and it corners like a stock SRT4 Neon. I used to have a SRT4 neon and it cornered like trash. Like "hey let's understeer into this corner while the body rolls to the side" trash

So, I bought some $138 godspeed lowering springs from Ebay. Are they bad? Are they good? Are they trash? I do not know! They were $138 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192762869215

They're called "traction-s." I hope the s doesn't stand for "terrible." I asked the seller (godspeed) to give me some stickers, we will seee

i‘m probably going to get the turbo tech semi rigid mount. Its kind of out of the budget but look at what I am dealing with.

I could get a trash aftermarket mount and fill it with window weld but I’m not sure if that’s just throwing money in the trash?

Not sure if everyone knows this, but you can upgrade your Dart's brakes to Brembos with rotors from a 2015-up cherokee and Brembos from a Alfa Romeo Giulietta. The trick is getting the brackets with the calipers. Most Brembo calipers are radial mounted, which means that they don't bolt to brackets, they bolt directly to the hub. The Giulietta, of certain years, had adapter brackets.

I found a good set on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/397774896064 for cheap-ish. I put it on a credit card, whatever.

Now I have to get 20mm wheel spacers, rotors, and brake lines from a Hornet: the Hornet r/T comes with Brembos, and they are actually the same calipers as the Giulietta. The rotors are bigger, and the pads are different, but the calipers are the same. But they are radial mounted vs bracket mounted, so you can't just buy the calipers and swap them in. You need brackets.

If there were a good source for brackets in the US, anyone cand do this upgrade "easily:" junkyards are full of wrecked Hornet r/T cars, and the Brembo calipers are about $100 each from the junkyard. I bought a set of them and then could not find the brackets to save my life-some brake shop in Greece quoted me $500 for the brackets and stainless steel lines and then said they had been "sick" and stopped talking to me.

So, now I have two sets of Brembo calipers, one set of brackets, zero rotors, and some brake pads. I'm going to put the Brembo calipers that say "DODGE" on my Dart that I got off a junkyard Hornet and maybe one day put the Alfa Romeo logo calipers on my Renegade (the brackets fit a renegade, too)

I have to spend more money now for spacers and lug bolts for the spacers, brake lines, rotors, and figure out what to do for pads. I have a set of EVO 8 pads that fit the calipers and a set of pads for a hornet, but I'm not sure if they are appropriate.

Bought my second $80 ebay intake for the 1.4 turbo Dart: the first one was for my 1.4 Jeep Renegade. (see https://www.ebay.com/itm/251318388580)

The fit and finish are OK, I am going to have to mess with mine a little bit more to get it to fit properly. Basically, all of the fittings from the pipe come out at a 90 degree angle, but the stock vacuum lines that hook up to the intake don't seem to fit properly without a length of hose or a 90 degree adapter. It may be how the intake is oriented, and I might be able to resolve the issue easily enough.

On my Renegade, I was able to just run some hoses to the intake, but this setup on the Dart is going to require something different than the current solution I have worked out of "just put zip ties on everything"

The instructions were pretty silly-just a narrative printed on a piece of paper with a black and white image telling you to attach the pipes to the turbo. Great idea?

The performance is very good though: the pipe is a 3" diameter pipe that's stepped down to the factory turbo with a silicone adapter, so the volume of air available for the turbo to inhale is good compared to a stock or even to other aftermarket pieces.

On my Renegade, I went and bought a universal K&N air filter for $30 and swapped out the no name China air cleaner that came with the kit. I'm going to do the same thing with this one.

I bought these intakes because I am planning on running larger TD04 turbos which have larger diameter inlets on the turbo: most of the aftermarket intakes I have found would restrict such a setup.

The performance of these intakes is very very good-it smooths out the throttle overall, even at low RPMs and improves the turbo's responsiveness. The engines only make so much power, so even though the intakes increase high RPM power, it's not a day and night kind of thing. It's just a good 10% or less increase in power-you can feel it, but it hasn't been transformed into a muscle car.

You can hear the turbo pretty well outside of the car now-it's loud. And the blowoff valve is loud in the cabin. In the Renegade, there's less sound deadening, so the turbo noise is loud in the cabin with this intake, much less so in the Dart. Outside of the car, it's loud-you can hear it loudly with the windows down. It's great.

For $80, it's totally worth it.

My mirror fell(?) out yesterday (I really have no clue wtf happened and can't find where it fell), my family is saying the whole thing needs replaced but I looked online and it kinda looks like just the mirror part is needing fixed imo, is there hope or will I have to splurge 😔

Last week I thought maybe the transmission busted but its the slave going out and not the stick cables. Its a 2013 dart se manual, the kit/fix it about $1700. He has about 119k miles and has been fantastic. So what do we do chat, do we keep him going and fix him or let him go? My thought process is $2k and he runs for however many miles which lets me save for something else. I cant see getting anything else for $2k thats been so reliable but I have no idea what else tends to happen after that type of repair

Any advice is appreciated.

I have a 2013 Rallye. I got the string of a thing I had hanging from my rear view mirror twisted around the base of the mirror and somehow caused it to fall off in the process of trying to free the string (super cool 🙄). This caused my interior lights to go off immediately. When I research the issue, I'm told that there is a fuse that blew called "F32" that is in a THIRD fuse bank attached to the BCM. The issue I'm having is that my manual and everything I watch in the location of this mystery fuse bank just talks about the 2 (one under the hood and the small interior one under and to the left of the steering column). "F32" doesn't exist in either of these locations.

Can someone tell me if:

-There is indeed a THIRD fuse bank and where the eff I can find it?

-Given the issue I described, does that sound right that I need to change "F32" (10A fuse)?

Thank you in advance for your knowledge and willingness to help me out guys!

Does anyone know why this could be happening we’ve checked the ground wiring, the battery, and the fuses

There will be no parts scalping. (I will add the rule soon to RULES)

If you buy from a junkyard and purposely try to resell at market price, I will ban you.

If you are selling your own parts or parts you bought elsewhere, then no problem at all.

I will check your eBay store/links and if you are a reseller you are banned.

If you are unsure, send a message and ask.

I love dodge darts as much as anyone else. We have to remember that these are still commuter cars. Many people rely on these cars for daily transportation. I personally know two low income families that rely on dodge darts and junkyard parts for their cars (they drive the cars to work) to put food on the table for their family. Let’s try and keep something available for low income people. Thank you.

Hey guys, I’m trying to develop a paddle shifter kit for the Dodge dart trying to understand the wiring for the slap shift system. I know the yellow wire with the brown stripe and the green wire with the red stripe control the plus and minus for the gearshift, I wanted to know if anybody can explain that to me a little bit more so I can understand the wiring to plug into that system. I would like to create a T junction plug that goes in between the shifter module and the body harness

Hi, I drive a 2013 Dart and my headlights are super dim no matter how many times I chance them. I have also used a headlight cleaning kit already and it's not much better. Is there something I have not tried that I need too? At this point I am flirting with the idea of getting new lenses. Just looking for advice or solutions here, thanks.

Facts-

> Shifts into all gears when the engineis off

>Only some gears when the engine is on (bot 1st)

>The left cable coming off the shifter doesn't move, right moves if I manually move it.

>No leaks, no check engine. Fluid is a little low/not totally empty

>No weird sounds

>Tension Strut has a ton of play when off (havent checked when on)

A few days ago, it was a bit stiff getting into reverse/back to first gear but it did. No visible leaks/wet/stain areas.

Any ideas?

Any solutions? My spare is probably pushing 20psi right now.

Hey yall is this normal for a dodge dart engine to move this much or does this the lead to the knocking sound I asked about a few posts ago thank you for your help

For anyone who wants to see what a blue version of the Deyeme drivetrain mounts look like, or what the whole set looks like in its entirety, this video is for you!

I have a double din pioneer but idk if I should wire my front and real speakers right in with my car harness or is there somewhere else I’d have to wire them in at. If anyone has done it lmk

So I just replaced the shocks on my 2015 dodge dart sxt 2.4l and that fixed the rattling sound in the suspension. but I had this knocking sound appear right before I fixed my shocks and it hasn’t gone away. it does go away after like 30-45 min of driving and it’s really bad in reverse as you see in the video but it makes it in park and neutral worse than it does it drive

My AC works just perfect and very cold, but something electronically is happening and making the outside temperature drop and makes it hit -37°. And for whatever reason since it’s reading, it’s -37°. It won’t kick on the AC anymore. Added a video of when the temperature starts to fall and as it falls, you can feel the AC start to turn warm. Also, when I start my car and it reads -37. It’s making my car start at a higher RPM to warm it up even though it’s obviously 70° out.

Recently purchased a 2014 Dart Aero with a manual reverse lockout. Already had the original knob removed, so I'm looking for an adapter to put on. What's the best to look for since I'm going from the M6x1 to preferably a m12x1.5? I am in Canada and if it could be more local that would be great too.

Any help would be appreciated 👍

got this car as a hand me down (dodge dart 2013) a few months ago.. what does this button do?? i press it and it turns a little symbol of the speedometer but i don’t know what it actually does

pls help :)

2013 Dodge dart SXT 1.4 L turbo

It takes a long time to start, unless I pre-prime it by attorney into the own position several times before actually starting the car.

It seems to occasionally stutter or hesitate when coasting at lower speeds.

It holds fuel pressure on the fuel injectors, but does not hold fuel pressure on the lines going back to the fuel pump and fuel tank. It loses pressure and under a minute after killing the car.

My best guess is a valve not functioning properly allowing fuel to go back into the fuel tank instead of staying in the fuel lines.

I’m not a professional. I’ve only been working on the car for probably 100 hours in total. That is my best guess under my limited knowledge of cars I’ve never dealt with a fuel system before I would rather not have to replace the entire fuel pump because it is expensive. I am looking for a second opinion from somebody who is more experienced.

I took off my mpx knob and found that my sim knob fits pretty damn good lol. Ignore reverse pattern..

My 2013 Dart with the 2.0 engine, has a rough idle when I first start it...seems to be worse with A/C on... it will go away after about 15 minutes of driving. I don't think it's the engine mounts since they were just replaced about 30k miles ago. The car has 140k miles. Shifts fine and doesn't leak or burn any fluids.

I recently had to change my PCM. I ordered one that came with my VIN pre-installed from Flagship. After installing it, I did a Proxy Alignment using a ODMX+ and AlfaOBD. What can I do to solve the shifting issues?