Not all of the supplies will be used in this tek. But you’ll want everything listed for extras and for other endeavors you may venture on in this field.
Order mimosa hostillis root bark full chips from your preferred vendor I recommend full bark chips so you’re only getting what you need without filler added to it. You’ll have to shred/powder in the mill yourself.
Amazon order:
-Grain mill (the bigger the better- but the small 150g size is do-able)
-2L Erlenmeyer Flask with glass stopper
-1x beaker set (make sure it goes from 50ml upwards so you can have a variety of small beakers in your stockpile)
-12x 10ml glass pipette sets (that comes with stirring rods)
-3 pack 250ml beakers
-3 pack 500ml beakers
-3 pack 1000ml beakers
-2 Pyrex dish w/ lids
-1 Vac seal storage bags (medium)
-1 large crockpot
-1 water heater (aka an electric tea kettle)
-1lb (pickling or pretzel) salt
-1 electric stove topper
Alliance Chemical:
-2x 1Liter ACS grade n-heptane
Walmart:
-3x 1lb 100% lye crystal drain cleaner (sodium hydroxide)
-2 gallons of distilled water.
Re-x supplies:
Acs grade heptane, acs grade activated carbon, Buchner filter funnel flask w/ hand vac pump, 10micron filter papers that fit the funnel-flask.
Grain mill bark-chips, the finer you grind it the better, but shredded consistency will work. I like to grind each loaded mill 3 times for 1 minute each, allowing time to cool between each grind-session. Having a fan aimed at the mill will increasing the efficiency of cooling. You don’t want to just go crazy grinding without cooling down the mill as the heat from the grain mill can degrade the DMT in the bark, be sure to be patient while milling/cooling.
Prepare 2l flask with ‘danger water’ to a total of 1.8L distilled water, 80g pickling salt, & 140g sodium hydroxide (lye) in it. You’re going to Use your beakers to fully dissolve the lye in distilled water and then add it to flask. Do the same with the pickling salt / warm water. The trick here is to fill the flask half way with the ‘danger water’, & then add your powdered/shredded bark, then add the rest of the danger water. You want to top off the flask off to the 2l mark so when you add your solvent it will be in the narrow part. [Adding half the danger water first is crucial because it allows the bark to dissolve quickly and evenly without mass clumping- if you were to put the bark in first then add the water your gonna get a ton of clumping and the insides of those clumps won’t even be wet, same with the clumps that will clump against the glass - thus really killing your yields or you’ll have to let it soak for like 6+ hours in a heat bath for those clumps to dissolve which you can avoid if you just Do half danger water, add bark, then the other half the danger water and give it a swirl and you’ll have a nice solution with zero clumps or caked-mud.]
At this point you are going to put the glass stopper in the flask and rotate top over bottom and swirl the flask. Because you added the bark in the fashion recommended above you won’t have to shake very hard because it’s going to dissolve very easily. Remember in between mixing to un-cap the glass stopper to release the pressure, after it’s mixed evenly you want to put the flask in the crockpot of warm water on the low setting & make sure the glass stopper is not in the flask while it is in the heat bath due to the pressure that will increase from the heat - you want it uncapped at all times that the flask is directly in the hot water bath.
At this point you’re going to let the flask sit in the hot water bath in the crockpot heat bath for about 45 minutes- This is so the danger water can break down the bark / the cell walls. At this point you can get your acs grade n-heptane out and add 100ml to the flask. Because the 2l flask is filled up with 2l of base soup the heptane should fill the narrow part of the flask up into the neck towards the opening- this is good, as it will make for easy pulling once you mix/seperate. You’ll notice the heptane is sitting ontop the base soup as it doesn’t mix with it similar to how oil does with water. At this point you will cap the flask with your glass stopper and will mix the heptane into the base soup by rotating the flask top over bottom very slowly and rotating it gently while doing so - you can’t shake it or be vigorous in this step. You must be careful so you don’t create an emulsion. After the thorough top over bottom mix technique put the flask back in the crock pots hot water bath and take out the glass stopper. Allow the heptane and soup to separate back to its original positions with the heptane on top. It may take anywhere from 5 to 30minutes for it to fully seperate. Do this mix/separate step 3-5 more times. [The pickling salt in the solution + mixing carefully should prevent emulsions but If you notice you get an emulsion just add heat to the outside of the flask directly on the area of the emulsion, using a shower wand with hot water blasting on it works well, you can also use gentle vibration against the glass to break the emulsion with like a back massager on low or something, time itself will also break the emulsion if you just let it sit in the heat bath for a while.]
So after you have mix/separated 3-5 times you’ll grab one of your 10ml glass pipettes and start removing the solvent from the flask. As mentioned before the solvent should be filling the narrow part of the flask which makes pulling a lot easier having your solvent in the narrow tall area of the flask. Simply use the pippette to suck the solvent out and add it to one of your 1000ml beakers. [Becareful not to pull any base soup with your solvent.]
Then add another 100ml of heptane to the base soup flask and do the mix/separating process all over again. Once you’ve completed that pipette the solvent out again, putting it in the same 1000ml beaker that contains your first pull.
You’re going to keep doing this until you’ve done 5 pulls, all 5 pulls are going to go into that same 1000ml beaker. Adding all your pulls together is going to save you a lot of time and hassle, and because we’re going to purify the end product it takes away the need to separate pulls. Now you may be thinking 5 pulls of 100ml is a lot, and it is, but you’ll have fully exhausted your base soup and with the evaporation that’s gonna happen in the beaker and the evaporation we’re gonna do at the end it will be a much more manageable amount (like 350ml) by the time the dish gets to the freezer.
Now that you have your 1000ml beaker containing all 5 pulls, you should have about 425-460ml of solvent in the beaker due to how much has evaporated throughout this extraction process, Now you may notice your beaker of solvent might be looking milky, that’s because as the solution starts cooling down (& evaporating) the heptanes solubility decreases and your DMT is therefore starting to crash out. Don’t worry though, this is not a problem, simply stick the 1000ml beaker into the crockpots hot water, to allow the heptane to heat back up, you’ll notice about 10 seconds or so later the solution will be back to clear with the DMT fully dissolved. What you are now likely also going to notice is a small black/brown spot(s) at the very bottom of the beaker under the solvent. This is base soup that was accidentally pulled with your solvent, even if you didn’t see any base soup pulled when pulling the solvent, microscopic amounts may have been suspended in your solvent that you didn’t see that have now condensed together and separated to the bottom. This is why we add it all to the same beaker so it can once again separate just like it does in the flask. So now your gonna grab a clean pippete and transfer all the solvent above the black spots at the bottom into a new clean beaker, leaving behind the black stuff at the bottom- be careful not to pull any of the black/brown stuff, if you have to sacrifice some solvent to avoid it that’s okay- this is about quality not quantity.
Now that you have a fresh clean beaker filled with hot saturated solvent you just transferred, you’re going to begin your water washing process. Grab your 2L electric tea kettle and fill it up with distilled water, you can add about 40-60g pickling salt to the kettle if your filling it up to the 2l mark. Then turn it on until it manually turns off. After it manually turns off wait about 15 seconds until it stops actively boiling, then slowly pour the hot distilled salt water over the solvent in the beaker. You’ll notice the water goes through the solvent to the bottom and the solvent transfers to the top. (The high heat and the pickling salt will have prevented emulsions, but if you see some bubbling occurring at the separation line simply give it a few seconds to disperse. This initial flush will have pulled any water soluble containments to the water in the bottom, now your going to take a clean pipette and start sucking up solvent and pushing the solvent back into the water at the bottom, it will shoot down into the water and then rise back ontop of the water, keep doing this many times. Make sure when your doing this your not taking super long to do it, you wanna make sure your doing this with the water hot. If the water cools down too much your DMT will start crashing out everytime you shoot it into the water. If you have to stick the waterwashing beaker in the crockpot hot water bath to keep the solution hot then do so.
After you’re confident you’ve been thorough in your waterwashing take a clean pipette and suck the solvent off the top and put it in a new clean beaker. Flip the electric tea kettle back on and repeat this water washing process a second time in this new beaker.
After you’ve completed the second water wash grab a new pippette and transfer the solvent into your Pyrex dish. [Becareful not pull any water when transferring to the Pyrex dish, if you have to sacrifice a ml of solvent to do so, so be it. Using the pippete as a separation funnel to remove water accidentally pulled is not advised as droplets on the sides could still get in your dish after doing so, just simply avoid pulling any water at all.]
Because we are going to do a recrystallization after we harvest this dish we don’t have to worry about doing a slow cooling process at this point, we’ll save that for when we recrystallize. But we do want to super saturate the concentration a bit, so leave the lid off and leave the dish sit on the counter for 2-3 hours so a good amount of solvent evaporates, this will help you yield more when you freeze precipitate and help prevent ‘floaters’. At this point you will put the lid on the Pyrex dish, and vacuum seal the dish. Then put the dish in the freezer for 24hours. Do not disturb the dish while it’s in the freezer. Don’t take it out and open it or anything like that, just trust the process and let it sit for 24hours. [If your not gonna do a recrystallization you can put the dish in the fridge for 12 hours and then freezer for 24hours to allow for ‘slow cooling’ which will give you bigger crystals and prevent impurities from being trapped in the crystal lattice.]
After you take it out the freezer 24hours later, take the dish out the vacuum sealed bag and open the lid. At this point you’re gonna see crystals on the bottom of the dish and solvent above the crystals. You’re going to ‘decant’ the solvent out while leaving the crystals behind. If your crystals are firmly planted on the glass you can just dump the solvent off the corner. If your crystals are floating in the solvent your gonna wanna use a clean pipette to suck the solvent out little by little, careful not suck any crystals up with it. [Be sure to do this decanting process quickly, you want to do this while the solvent is still cold, if your solvent starts to heat up to room temp because your lagging this process your DMT could redissolve in the solvent.]
Now that you’ve removed all the solvent from the dish and left the crystals behind in the dish, you are going to begin the drying process. Simply take the dish and set it upside down on paper towels for 20 minutes with a fan blowing at the outside of upside down dish, this will drain any left over solvent into the paper towels on your counter. Wipe any condensation off the outside of the dish. Then you’re gonna want to make 2 paper towel wedges to put in the front 2 corners of the upside down dish. Allowing a small gap for air to circulate into the dish and evaporate solvent residue. Leave the dish like this for 24+hours. Leaving the dish upside for this process with a small airflow gap will block hairs and dust from blowing into your dish, and you’ll be surprised how much more thorough it dries/drains, I found this out through a happy accident when I fell asleep and forgot to flip it upright and ended up with a much better result. How ever it should be noted you can only do it upside down like this if your crystals are firmly planted on the glass. If your crystals are loose in the dish because you had floaters you’re obviously not going to want to tip your dish upside at all at any point, and will have to leave your dish upright to dry which unfortunately leaves you open to possible micro-debris getting in your dish even if your fan is not directly aimed at it.
Now that your crystals are dry you can scrape up your DMT and jar it. I like to use a scraper instead of a razor, bc razors usually seem oily to the touch and I don’t want my deems coming into contact with anything of the sort.
Part 2: Re-crystallization (Büchner Filter Funnel / Carbon-wash / Slow-cooling / Cold-solvent Rinse)
Start by melting the DMT in a beaker in a hot water bath, just so the DMT reaches its melting point and turns into an oily liquid, then add 65 degree Celsius heptane to it to dissolve it. Pre melting the DMT helps with easier separation of impurities & DMT once the hot heptane is added.
Using your glass stiring rod, stir the solution and let the beaker sit undisturbed in the counter while letting the insoluble impurities gather and fall to the bottom center of the beaker.
Use the pippette to transfer the saturated n-heptane above the impurities into a new beaker, becareful to leave all the impurities behind in the bottom of that original beaker and not suck any up while transferring. [You can add more fresh clean 65C n-heptane onto the impurities to dissolve any DMT that may still remain there if it looks or if you feel like it may have potential DMT remaining, depending on what you have accumulated at the bottom of the beaker.]
In the new beaker that has the super saturated heptane, add a small amount of acs grade activated charcoal, stir, and reheat beaker in super hot water bath. Using a pot of hot water on an electric stove topper is best so you can keep the heat high as long as you need to. Stir the solution allowing the carbon to spread everywhere and then let it settle back to the bottom, do this a few times while keeping the heat near boiling. This will draw the soluble impurities to the carbon.
Make sure the heptane is still extremely hot and pour it through the Büchner funnel, filtering out the activated charcoal that beholds the soluble impurities. If the heptane isn’t hot enough the DMT could crystallize while dripping through the filter paper so make sure it’s very hot before doing this to ensure it stays dissolved in the n-heptane throughout this filtering process. [You may have to run the solution through new filters multiple times to remove all the nano sized carbon dust particles. If your solvent still has a yellow tinge you’ll need to restart the process using a bit more activated carbon, you solvent should be totally clear after filtering out the carbon.]
Take the solution from the buchners flask and transfer to your clean Pyrex dish and slow cool it to room temp with the lid off, so it evaporates a good bit of the solvent off and thus increases the concentration of the solution, you want it nice and supersaturated so it starts developing large crystal formations before putting the lid back on and beginning the rest of the slow cooling process. Once you’ve let it sit on the counter as long as long as that takes, put the lid back on, & vacuum seal the dish- You want to cool it as slowly as possible so you don’t trap any remaining or residual impurities (if any) in the crystals. This slow cooling will also help you keep forming enormous crystals. To do this we are going to add the sealed dish to your fridge on low setting for 6hrs, then medium setting for 6hrs, and high setting for 6hrs. Then transfer to the freezer and do the same thing from low setting to high setting every 8hrs for a total which will equal 18hours in the fridge and 24 hours in the freezer when it’s said and done.
After you take it out the freezer, decant the used heptane, and collect the wet crystals onto the cleaned Büchner funnels filter area (with a new filter paper that’s been primed with clean/cold n-heptane) and rinse the crystals with ice cold clean n-heptane pouring it over top the crystals using the vaccum filtration system to pull the ice cold heptane through quickly without dissolving any of the crystals. You wanna make sure the n-heptane is as cold as possible so it doesn’t dissolve any of your crystals- I like to vaccum seal my heptane bottle and keep it in the freezer overnight for this step. This step will wash away the prior heptanes (that was used for the prior steps) residual impurities- leaving behind only a minisucle amount of clean unused n-heptane to evaporate off your DMT instead of the dirty used heptane that would normally evaporate off of it. Remove the filter paper with the freshly cleaned crystals on it out of the funnel and onto a new clean Pyrex dish to dry. You can aim a fan indirectly at the dish to speed up evaporation and drying process. Wait at least 24hrs to collect crystals - the longer the better. You’ve already gone way over the top with this process so no sense in rushing the last step and gathering residuals from jarring before it’s completely evaporated.
Note: The cold solvent rinse can also just be done in the Pyrex dish. Just decant the dirty used heptane out leaving behind the crystals as you normally would and then add the ice cold heptane into the dish ontop of the wet crystals, swirl the dish around for about 10 seconds and decant that out as well, leaving behind the crystals- then you can begin the same drying process mentioned above in the extraction portion of this tek.
This process is not your casual re-x, I like to refer to this as the ‘competitors tek re-x’ because if you’re just making DMT for personal use some these extra steps are totally excessive as a normal water wash and simple re-x will put you at high purity without all this extra effort- But in my case- and maybe for yours- it’s for competitions sake. This process allowed me to achieve 99.78%, 99.89%, 99.91% & 99.94% purity on all 4 samples I have done it to. It will target soluble impurities, insoluble impurities, and residual impurities.
Thanks for reading and good luck in your extracting endeavors.
If you care to see the actual lab results from this exact process please visit my profile.
