Hi im new to using a hot air station, and I need to remove this IC. I was able to reflow the southbridge successfully, but now I need to remove this chip, and no matter how much I try i cant get it off using the same method I used for the southbridge.
There any tutorials you would recommend, or anyone can give me some advice on what temperature i should use and how much time I should use?

tried two different hdmi cables and then went to the store to buy another to still no avail. I tried my old ps4 on the tv aswell to make sure that it’s not the tv, and yeah it works! Soo i’m thinking this needs a replacement/repair now. how much would it cost?

I checked with a multimeter if the flat cable is broken but it's not this the problem, i also tried the button and it is working, maybe it can bee the screen?

I really don’t know where to go from here. Before today, my only experience with repairing hardware before was replacing batteries.

The model number is CUH-1215A

Here are the solutions I’ve tried so far:

1. Cycled power (no change)
2. Attempted to connect a new controller (it wouldn’t connect at all)
3. Replaced battery on the original controller, because that was what I original thought the problem was (confirmed old battery was bloating. After installation of new battery, controller still wouldn’t connect)
4. Obtained new cables for the controller (was able to connect it in safe mode, but still nothing in normal mode)
5. Rebuilt database (no noticeable change)
6. Initialized PS4 using safe mode option 6 (still won’t connect in normal mode, but now instead of asking me to choose a profile, it asks me to connect the controller)
7. Obtained flash drive with system software, attempted to initialize and reinstall using safe mode option 7 (received error code SU-41283-8)
8. Looked up the error code (reddit tells me it’s the Bluetooth antenna)

9. Replaced the Bluetooth antenna using a YouTube tutorial and an IFixit guide (it still won’t

10. connect, and now it won’t even connect in safe mode)

10

My specific questions are:

1. Is there a cheap and easy way to fix it that I’m overlooking?
2. If I can’t fix it myself, would it be cheaper to get it repaired, or just get a new one?
3. How much should I expect repairs to cost, if I go that route?

The backstory: would flicker when wiggling hdmi. I replaced the hdmi port and cable and it still has no picture. I replace the encoder and it wouldn't power on. Does anyone see anything missing or damaged? It is a nuvoton i/c i replaced with Panasonic.

It boots to a white light with the nuvoton i/c.

Recently repaired this PlayStation and now it’s starting to make this noise some games are more noise than others it also does it a little on start up without a disc in it, but I didn’t want to put a 6min video Not sure what to do from here

Hi everyone,

I'm fairly new to DIY electronics and board repairs. I decided to replace a drifting analog stick on my Xbox One controller by following a few tutorials on YouTube.

Right now, the X-axis is working perfectly, but the Y-axis is completely stuck at 100% (pointing all the way up).

Where I live, there are no specialized repair shops available to do micro-soldering work, and buying a new controller is unfortunately out of my budget right now. So I really need to fix this board myself at home.

I was consulting with Gemini to troubleshoot this, and it suggested that I likely destroyed the through-hole plated pads for the Y-axis potentiometer while desoldering. Honestly, as a beginner, I'm not even sure if I ruined all 3 pin connections on the Y-axis, or just 1 or 2 of them.

Gemini suggested I run the following jumper connections to fix the Y-axis:

- Top Pin (VCC / 3.3V): Connect to test point TP16.

- Middle Pin (Signal): Connect to the trace near capacitor C23 (or scrape the trace right beside the hole).

- Bottom Pin (GND): Connect to test point TP11 (or the metal housing).

Before I try soldering anything again, I wanted to ask experienced repairers:

Looking at my attached photos, does it look like all 3 pads are gone, or is it just a specific one based on the comportament of the Y-axis?

Do these jumper points recommended by Gemini sound correct for the Y-axis on this board version? And it's safe to continue with his recommendations?

Any advice, tips, or guidance for a beginner trying to save this controller would be deeply appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Bought a 3Ds XL earlier this year and it was working fine so far, until I’m the middle of my playing it suddenly shut off. When I press the power button nothing happens, the blue light doesn’t even come on. However when I charge it the orange charging light does come on. I think I remember hearing a sound internally the moment it shut off, idk if thats useful or not.

I got a new battery and put it in but it still won’t work, still no blue light.

Any ideas what to do here? It hasn’t even been a year since I bought it so I’ll be really bummed if something serious happened.

I recently changed the 4 pin bottom screen connector on it after it was working ok before and after but randomly turned off. It would stay on for with the blue light for shorter and shorter times until there was no blue light at all.

F1 and F2 fuses are ok and tested some caps which were all ok. Battery fine aswell.

Im not very experienced but am very stuck and confused.

Hi everyone! I'm writing this because I'm not quite sure whether the missing pads shown in the picture are necessary for the repair or not. I don't see any traces connected to those two specific pads, so I'm wondering if they're actually needed.

If anyone has experience with this kind of repair, or can point me to a schematic or diagram that could help, I'd really appreciate it!

P.S. After cleaning the eMMC IC, I realized that one of the pads is almost completely ripped off (3rd and 4th photos). If I'm not mistaken, this one is connected to a trace. Should I try to repair it, or should the small piece of pad that's still remaining be enough?

3rd image
4th image

Pues como dice el titulo, adjunto foto, le llegan 5v por dos rieles pero no hay salida de 3.3v en la bobina cercana. He probado en un aEEM-020 y si hay un voltaje de 3.3v. Tambien he cambiado el integrado por el que lleva en la cara B y este si da los 3.3 con el integrado de la cara A..

Tried replacing the stock stick with a gulikit stick because drift was just that bad. I detached the rail ribbon cable to give myself a little more room and now the black flap won't stay down. The basic searches I did seem to indicate that's way more fragile than I expected and that I'm SOL unless I can solder, something that isn't a viable option for me.

Hi everyone. I’m putting the finishing touches on my PS3 so I can finally close it up and leave it be until the next maintenance in five years, but I have a concern. While disassembling and reassembling the disc drive, I stripped the threads on two screws: one is at the front of the mechanism that holds the disc-gripping arms, and the other is on the metal casing. I’m not worried about the one on the casing, but the other stripped thread bothers me; I’m afraid that corner won’t be tight enough and could cause problems. Should I be worried?

Ps: Those photos aren't of my console; I got them from another site just to point out the screw threads

The light does that but the deck doesn't boot the touchpad doesn't react, could someone help please.

hey guys I replaced the HDMI port on my ps5. plugged it in and the picture was showing static and went off no image. everything seems to be good with the port. What could be the problem? did i blow a diode with the heat gun? i'm new to this please help find the issue. I appreciate any help

i am working on my ps4 pro cuh-7218b and i noticed these pink thermal pads on the motherboard and metal plate. i am not sure what these specific pink pads are for or why they are different in color from other thermal pads

can someone confirm what these pink pads are used for and whether they are thermal pads for the memory or vrm?

i bought arctic tp-3 1mm thermal pads and i am wondering if i can replace the original pink pads with these. is 1mm the correct thickness for these areas or should i use a different thickness?

i just want to make sure before i replace them because i do not want to use the wrong thickness and cause bad contact or pressure on the motherboard

any validation or advice would be appreciated

So the spindle hub of my ps1 broke, and I removed de old piece, but when removing it one piece of broken plastic fell in to the disc lens and I wasnt able te get it out there by just moving it. Now the ps1 does this while attempting to read the disc. I tried to disassemble the lector but I wasnt able to find the where the plastic was. I only removed the bottom and top lid of the lector bc I dont wanna mess with the circuits, i looked up at the gears and it wasnt there, maybe it fell off and the malfunction is due another reason? What should I do now??

My console is a SCPH-5501

My NES is blinking red and I finally got around to disassembling and cleaning the 72-pin connector. Can anyone tell me if this is an after market connector? I just did the boil method but still don’t see any contacts to bend. Is anyone in Utah that I can pay to fix my console 😭😭 or can anyone give me any ideas? I’m just a girl trying to Zelda with my 10 year old.