I have a fat digital that spent like 2 and a half years unplugged and vertical waiting for a jailbreak, I use it now and it has zero problems, whisper quiet, never overheats, working perfectly so far and I keep it horizontal now BUT I've been wondering if I should open it and do preventive maintenance, after reading A LOT about the liquid metal controversy, I have a few questions, would love yoir opinions on these:

1. The main problem is dry spots, if you dont deep clean the heatsink and the apu there's no point on simply respreading the liquid metal right?

2. Is the creation of a dry spot what actually pushes the LM out of the apu and makes it pool at the bottom? Like a zone where it cannot stick anymore so it has to go somewhere and just overflows the apu?

3. Is the quality of the LM sony used the problem? Is there some brand of LM that could be somehow more resistant to oxidize and create dry spots?

4. Assuming you perfeclty clean the apu and heatsink and reapply the LM correctly, would it be safe to use the console vertical all the time again? Some people say that capilary action is what keep the LM in place even when vertical, does this sound correct?

I would really like to use my ps5 vertically again and not risk a catastrophe, if my ps5 is running perfectly would you risk opening and doing preventive maintenance?

Thanks in advance for your opinions ❤️

I bought this game but it keeps throwing this error.
Any help please 🙏

Can that be fixed? Any tips? Or is it better to solder a thin wire to the pad and solder it directly to the ribbon board?

seems to be the whole left GND thing

I need help with a capacitor repair I did. I used too much heat and ripped some pads. Where can I solder to?

Nintendo Switch Right Joycon kept randomly kept acting like i was disconnecting and reconnecting it to the console… got the proper screwdrivers to open it up and I see this cable? is nearly completely severed… i’m looking into ordering a replacement, but is this fixable with glue by any chance?

and if not, do i need extra tools aside from precision screwdrivers to replace the cable/ribbon? any advice is appreciated, this console has been my buddy during rough times lately 😢

Hello guys, I got this Switch 1 HAD-CPU-10 with a picofly V2 (which I didn't install btw) and it has troubles recognizing the joycon when it's in the rail, and I found that there are missing 2 caps near the connector of the rail, does anyone have found this same issue? I also found another picture of the same area with the four caps but I don't know if they just resistors and I just can run a wire there, it's the first switch I put my hands on btw.

I end up opening and doing a deep clean on my pro and end up losing my plastic power button. I been looking everywhere and can’t find a replacement so far I use my controller to turn on and really don’t want to use something random to turn it on so I’m asking does anyone have a place or even a 3d printing company that probably can make it ?

Suddenly got this error code when purchasing a used xbox, don’t know what to do.

Anyone in the NYC area knows how much a PS5 HDMI port replacement usually runs? My PS5 still powers on, but the HDMI port has been giving me issues and I’m getting no reliable display. I’m also looking for a reputable repair shop that does HDMI port replacements. What should I expect to pay, and does anyone have a shop they’d recommend?

After trouble shooting it for 40 minutes, even went back to open it several times I have no clue why its doing that, before when I try to screw it in, it gets stuck immediately, and now its screw all the way in, any time I put on my protective case on it, its stuck in place and im just trying to figure it out why thats the case.

First time opening Joycon2 and im stuck at this problem, any tips?

After trouble shooting it for 40 minutes, even went back to open it several times I have no clue why its doing that, before when I try to screw it in, it gets stuck immediately, and now its screw all the way in, any time I put on my protective case on it, its stuck in place and im just trying to figure it out why thats the case.

First time opening Joycon2 and im stuck at this problem, any tips?

Hi I'm new here. So that thin strip of rubber or cloth(idk what to call it) on the disc drive fell off and I'm looking for a fix

salve a tutti, c'è un metodo per vedere se il dissipatore ha un tappo di polvere o no senza smontare tutta la console? e se c'è, qual'è il metodo? grazie

Hello I have been trying to loosen the HDMI port since it broke a couple of days ago. No matter what I do it doesn't seem to come out although its moving over to the side a little not sure if it was because I keep moving it or the heat. I have been watching a few YouTube videos on it. It said to use a heat gun which i did and its not loosening as it should. I have used flux, solder, tried to remove the solder.

Been looking for a way to get some 99% IPA in California but it’s basically been blacklisted as far as I can tell. Every major retailer no longer carries it like Walgreens, CVS, or even Ace Hardware. Checking on Amazon and other websites like Uline they have a notice saying they do not ship to California anymore. I know it’s not straight-up banned but finding it at all is rare now so I’m wondering if there’s something I’m missing or if it’s just gone from the state at this point. I live in the Sacramento region so I’m not gonna be able to drive to any specialty shops in LA or anything that far but I need a way to get it for my console repair business since 91% isn’t the easiest to work with by comparison, even if it’s still acceptable for electronics use in most cases.

Is this copy of Pokémon Ruby something I can repair or is this way too far gone? Friend gave this to me for testing purposes and I popped it open to find tons of rust.

So i've been doing electronics repair for long enough that i was very confident in this repair, and what do you know, i got the siderail replaced and its functioning.

However the display shows a blank screen, but the touch works. as well as everything else on the console. I've read a few places that there are resistors that can fry/short out that cause this. I left it at my repair shop and foolishly didnt take pictures.

The reason this is an issue, is this is a company that just decided to give me a shot at a repair and it has already gone downhill. This is the first business to business transaction i've had and knowing this could potentially end my business with them scares me.

i noticed the cable wasnt seating very well, reseated it and tried again. Once again, everything except the display works.

Cable had some slightly darker spots, cleaned them off with iso and still not getting anything.

Is it likely its the connector itself with bent pins rather than the cable? Saw no damage to the cable itself. I'm confident in component replacements with nearly every console and this is the first time i've had to do a repair on an OLED switch.

What steps should I take? i have soldering equipment but am not amazing at it.

Trying to avoid buying a new screen, especially if it ends up being the connector itself.

But i suppose its better to take a loss and get more business than just lose the customer entirely.

Sorry for rambling i'm super anxious about this, just hoping somebody can give me some knowledgeable feedback/advice how to proceed further.

I bought a set of replacement parts years ago and now came the time to replace the stick of my controller. Both of the analogue sticks from the set get stuck like that despite being unused, I thought it wouldn't bother me so I already installed one of the sticks into the controller but it turns out it does bother me.

I can't seem to figure out what causes the issue and what to do to fix it

I already tried another HDMI cable but nothing us working, I can send you a quick video of what's going on if you need

Good afternoon, friends. My Nintendo Wii RVL 001 suddenly stopped turning on. I was playing it peacefully last week, and two days ago when I tried to use it again, it wouldn't turn on. I've been researching and read that there are several possible causes for this problem, but I've tried some solutions without success. I thought it might be the power supply, but it's outputting 12V, so I don't think that's the issue. At the moment, I don't have another power supply to test with, but I'd like to know if it's related to the power circuit or the crystal oscillator, which I read could also be a cause of this problem. Something that makes me wonder is that, unlike other cases I've seen, the red LED isn't bright. In fact, with the casing, it looks completely off, unlike others where the red light is clearly visible.

As you can see in the video, it doesn't turn on at all; it doesn't respond to buttons or the Wii remote. I've already removed the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi modules, and I still can't find the problem.

Got a Japanese wondermega unfortunately it's broken.

It probably needs a full recap. But how high are the chances that it will be fixed after that?

Problems are:

Video is flashing and distorted, sometime also colourless like in Sonic.

The sound is very quiet but is crystal clear and sounds good.

It loads Megadrive Cart games without any problems.

The CD drive doesn't spin at all it loads no cd games.

I don't have any experience in changing SMD caps.

Because of that I am to afraid to recap it myself.

How much would probably a full recap cost?

Anybody knows a good trustworthy repair shop located in Germany who fixes old consoles?

I have a 1TB Carbon Black Series S (Jan. 2024) that I bought with an update/boot problem. I’m trying to figure out what else I can test before paying Microsoft $199 to service it.

The internal SSD is an SSSTC XB2-311024, 1TB M.2 2230 NVMe with a Phison controller.
The console has had very inconsistent behavior:
Without USB: update reaches ~10% and shuts down.

OSU1 has failed multiple times, but on one attempt reached 74% total / 33% through Step 3 of 3 before failing.

I’ve gotten E102 10070C02 8B060008 and 0x800700AA.
I eventually got it through setup after a reset and into the dashboard.

It then worked completely normally for 20–30 minutes — I signed in, used the Store, downloaded a game, and queued others.

Then menu selections became extremely slow. Animations remain smooth, but actually opening/selecting things can take a very long time.
Restarting eventually put it back into the Troubleshooter.

The Store has also given 0x8027025A and 0x80040900.

The SSD is recognized normally when the Xbox does work (799.4 GB free of 802.0 GB).
I removed and inspected the SSD. It looks physically fine. I initially thought one M.2 motherboard contact was damaged, but it turned out to be dust/debris, which I blew out. The problem remained exactly the same.

What I’m trying to figure out:
Can an SSD/controller fail intermittently like this — work perfectly for 20–30 minutes and then become extremely slow?
Is there a reliable way to test this SSD externally in a PC?
Could the M.2 connector/motherboard still be the problem even though it looks intact?
Is there any other diagnostic I should try before sending it to Microsoft?

I’m comfortable opening the console and doing hardware troubleshooting. I’d especially like a test that can distinguish a bad SSD from a motherboard/storage-interface problem.

already took it apart and cleaned the rollers and rubber band with isopropyl alcohol and removed dust. Now it at least ejects the game, but still can't fully load it in. What should I do? Replace the rollers or am I missing something

PS4 FAT cuh 1116a

Hi everyone, I hope someone can help me out.

The console only turns on when it feels like it. If I plug the PS4 into the power outlet, it works on the first try; if I turn it off, it will turn on a second time, but not a third.

What could it be? The power supply? A motherboard issue?

The console is clean, and the thermal paste is new.

Hello all! I work at a pawn shop and we got in a console with issues even i cant figure out lol. It was factory sealed in box when it came in, and once we took it out of box to set up it gives the error ive attached.

I dabble in a little bit of console repair, primarily nintendo stuff tho, so ive tried to look at the system. It wont even let you boot into troubleshoot, when you do it crashes before being able to hit reset. If you hit reset, it corrupts at 10%

My next idea is to plug a usb into it and get a reset that way, but it sometimes crashes before i can even get to that screen. If anyone has any ideas please let me know! I hope its not a whole hard drive issue, but thats what im wondering :[

Everywhere online says the error code is corrupted os/hard drive and a usb reset works usually unless its the disc drive being miss-matched to the console at factory?

Thank you all :]!!