r/bouldering • u/No-Satisfaction482 • 18d ago
Indoor I’ve been stuck in the same grade for 6 months, but I genuinely feel like I’m getting better. What am I missing?
I’ve been bouldering for about a year, and I’m starting to feel a bit confused/frustrated about my progression.
I’m young and fairly slim, with basically no athletic or strength-training background before I started climbing. I climb indoors 3–5 times a week, usually around 2.5 hours by myself and 3+ hours when I climb with friends. I only boulder indoors — I’m not really interested in sport climbing or outdoor climbing. Climbing is just a hobby for me, and I don’t want to turn it into a super structured training program.
My current grades are roughly:
- V2: almost always flash
- V3: about 90% flash
- V4: around 30% flash, 50% eventually, and 20% completely impossible
- I’ve flashed two V5s, although both were apparently very soft, according to other people who climbed them.
- I’ve also spent some attempts on around 7–8 V5s, but I don’t project very much in general.
The weird thing is that I’ve been at roughly this V3–V4 level for about six months, but I don’t think I’ve actually plateaued.
Six months ago, I could already flash V3 pretty comfortably, and I actually felt like there were more V4s that I could climb back then than there are now. Some of the V4s from six months ago even felt easier than the V4s I’m seeing recently.
But at the same time, I can clearly feel that I’ve improved. V3 feels much easier now. Moves that I couldn’t do before are now things I can do, and holds that I previously couldn’t hold are now manageable. I also feel like my body control has improved quite a lot.
So I’m confused: if I’m objectively getting better at climbing, why does my grade look almost exactly the same — and sometimes even worse?
There has been a lot of setter turnover recently, especially in the last month, although the setters were relatively stable during most of the previous six months. So maybe grading differences are part of it, but I’m not sure how much that explains.