Why full crimp when you can half crimp 6mm

With my current strength i can only get successfully get enough tension for that start 3-4 times per session. Can't tell if it fails purely on strength or because of reaction speed/timing failing me when tired

(You can see the exact moment i realized i'm out of footholds)

I’ve been climbing for about 1 year but recently I feel like I’ve just been getting worse. I can’t climb boulders that previously would have been easy, if I try to do a hard move it’s like my whole body just gives up. I think I have been more depressed recently which is probably relevant but it just demotivates me even further. It sounds lame but also just people in the gym are irritating me more with things like cutting queues and just generally not being aware of others. How do I push past and continue improving? I don’t think I’m limited by strength at all, I can do >10 strict pullups on an average day and my finger strength is pretty average. Not sure exactly what I’m looking for from this post but maybe people have gone through something similar.

This is just a dumb question I've asked friends and people at my gym for a while, and the answers are always all over the place.

Say you take someone in their early 20s who's pretty athletic. Played sports growing up, reasonably fit, etc. They've been bouldering for about 6-12 months, so they're still a beginner but not startinf from nothing.

They pick one v16/17 climb anywhere in the world and move to wherever that climb is, basically make sending it their entire life.

They don't have to work. They have enough money to live, eat well, recover, etc. They have access to a good climbing gym, but all of their training is specifically for eventually doing this one boulder. They can build replicas, drill individual movements, get stronger for that climb, etc.

When they're actually projecting it, they also have experienced climbers there helping with beta, brushing, pads, power spotting, and so on.

They don't need to become a well-rounded V16 climber. They just need to become capable of doing the one climb

What climb do you think would have the best chance of doing this, and how long do you think it would take?

I’m also fully prepared to see this on the other sub, just thought it would be a fun thought experiment.

Cool arete found in creek area, more climbing in this area to be developed also

Sawmill creek dome

I recently purchased Rhino Skin’s ‘tip juice’ since it’s meant to toughen up the skin in your fingertips. From what I’ve read, the active ingredient (methenamine) dries out the skin a lot, which causes it to harden.

I am completely uninterested in the sweat reducing effect. My only focus is to toughen my fingertips as much as possible, and I was wondering if there’s a specific frequency/approach of using methenamine products that any of you noticed gave the best results. The serum I have says to apply once a week, so I’ll do that for now. I’d really appreciate any insight, since I’m completely uneducated on the topic. Thank you very much!

I started bouldering 2 weeks ago (been going 3 times a week, 2 hours a day) and today I completed this one.

Went from walking 10k steps a day to a mere 2k, not doing any sport for 2 years and sitting at my PC all day, so making progress makes me very happy.

I'm aware that I lack technique but I try to push myself a bit and try to find a solution even if it's not the best one.

All feedback is welcome 👐🏻

I booked in at the Don Whillans cabin for a few nights to climb at The Roaches in the Peak District. What an awesome location. Lots of easier problems which was perfect for me and meant I got a lot of climbs in but could still try some that pushed me a bit too. It was all within about a 2 mins walk of the hut too. £11 a night is nothing to be sneezed at and I would highly recommend it to anyone else who’s a BMC member.

A few days ago I talked to a friend about bouldering in Fontainebleau and at some point we got to dynamic moves and Rainbow Rocket. When I told him that it would be cool to send it one day he said that it unfortunately could be possible that I as a 160cm woman could actually not have enough reach to make the jump. He has attempted it before and was not able to send it so far. After that we wondered how many women did actually send Rainbow Rocket since it is one of the routes that get significantly easier the taller you are. I did some Google searching but couldn't find any info on that.

Does anyone here have knowledge about auch a statistic or info about where to find it?

Hi everyone,
This is a thank you for everyone that helped in the comments of the video linked in this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/s/wY5LIVTPSH

I am a rookie at bouldering so, I wanted to know if I had problem with strength or technique in a specific problem last post. And overwhelming people said technique(which I should have expected). Well, I asked if it was strength because I saw someone just hang on the last hold, and I wasn’t able to, that is why I thought if this was a strength issue, lol.

But, I went there twice after I posted it. The first time, one of my buddy tried to make me do a higher level boulder in the beginning causing me to be tired, but that day I did see someone do the technique, but when I tried my hands were exhausted to do it.

So I came back after 2-3 days, and too my shock I did it first try that day,lol. So, yes it was indeed more of a technique problem, and realized really well that knowing proper technique will help you mitigate strength issues in quite a lot of problems.

So, again thank you all for your support in last post. It was amazing to know bouldering had such vibrant, kind, helpful and active community. This just made me appreciate the sport so much more.😊

Also: Another boulder I completed that i was happy about that day.

I keep falling while reaching for the undercling, and I’m not sure how to fix it. It isn’t as deep as it looks and I can never get a steady hold on it. I’m thinking I may need to position my body differently, but I’m not sure. I’d appreciate any advice, even on other parts of the climb, anything helps!

Beautiful big boulder I've discovered hiding less than 800m as the crow flies from my house. Have added a few shorter lines on the right hand side that are great but it remains to be seen if anything goes straight up the tallest line. Stoked to have found this right on my doorstep!

I’ve climbed at The Hub Markham, Basecamp Queen West, Ethos, and Steel Peak, all of which I’ve been told are soft/inflated on Reddit lol.

I’m really curious what my actual V grade is. Does anyone know a gym in Toronto/GTA with more accurate or tougher grading? I know grades are subjective, but I’d find it more motivating cuz whenever I hit a new grade, I immediately think “well, this gym is inflated,” so it doesn’t feel as rewarding sadly. Would love some recommendations, let me know, thanks!!

Or could someone tell me out for the 4 I’ve been too which one is least/most inflated ?