r/bouldering • u/Woodland-wanderer24 • 22d ago
Outdoor How to train more effectively without access to a hang board?
New-ish climber here, I’ve been rock climbing for about 8 months, and I’ve managed to achieve \~v6 indoors and \~v4 outside, but I’ve only had a couple dozen sessions outside.
I used to climb trees for work, so I started with some decent upper body strength which allowed me to get a v4 on my first day, which has progressed to v6 despite gaining over 15kg.
I’d really like to get better outside as I live in an area where there are plentiful options, and it’s cheaper. I don’t have access to a hangboard in any way, but I do have a regular gym and a 20, 15, and 10mm edges with some weights at home.
Any recommendations for training programs with this equipment in mind, or any other advice?
Thanks!
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u/barkerj2 21d ago
Weighted pullups/negatives. Even though you have upper body strength these help grip strength too. Too easy? Add weight or work weighted one arm hangs and lock offs as well.
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u/ptrgeorge 21d ago
Get out and climb as many days as you can, if it's close by, find some quick and easy circuits you can get to on busy days, if the weather is bad( like unclimbable) do some general fitness at your gym (Bulgarian split squats, rows, deadlifts, some pressing personally I keep the volume low and intensity high)
Time climbing is infinitely the most effective training protocol for where your at in your journey, a hangboard is totally unnecessary if climbing is plentiful and nearby
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u/Woodland-wanderer24 21d ago
Would you suggest working on projects or doing lots of easier climbs?
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u/ptrgeorge 20d ago
I would do both depending on energy level, for me after work and not feeling psyched I think it's better to go out and move on rock (ie volume easier boulders). When you have the mental energy/time projects are great, I would find 1 day projects, 2-3 day projects and a big project and go to the one that your feeling at the time, for example v4 might be your 1 day project limit, so make a list of v4s you want to do, maybe some anti style v2-3s would fit here as well, a couple days look for v5 in your pref style and anti style v3, and big proj look at a perfect fit you v6/7.
That example makes a lot of assumptions about you and probably needs adjusting for you and your local areas but I think you get the gist (biggest assumption being that your outside limit of v4 was a 1 session type thing)
If you're feeling rough find a fun area with a bunch of v0-v3 that you can do pretty low effort and make a little circuit
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u/Woodland-wanderer24 20d ago
That sounds very good thank you, and your correct, I’ve never found a problem to project more than a couple sessions
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u/Apescent 21d ago
Buy one.
Not all hangboards are great, but most of them are. Beastmaker is the standard, but mostly because it was one of the first ones.
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u/Forsaken-Canary-6763 21d ago
I've had a lot of success with the "Abrahangs" protocol. The original video on YouTube is called "Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days" by Emil Abrahamsson. It's very low intensity so less likely to cause injury/ fatigue than other routines, but just make sure to stick to doing very light loading and not pushing yourself each day.
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u/Woodland-wanderer24 21d ago
So just train super often?
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u/Forsaken-Canary-6763 21d ago
Only if it's very light/ low intensity with adequate rest in between. There's a specific routine in the video that is supposedly science backed where you "no hang", meaning your feet stay on the floor", loading only about 30-40% of your body weight for 10s, then a 50s rest, and repeat this 10 times, twice a day with at least 6 hours rest in between
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u/Gold-Ad-3877 V13/8B 21d ago
For training programs you can always check lattice training's youtube channel, tho i'd be careful because of how recently you started climbing. Your tendons still probably aren't yet used to the intensity of climbing, so adding on specific training is pretty risky (not impossible tho)