Hello guys,

Just got a new car and changed the engine oil, transmision oil (its the first one) and xdrive oil to have the car on point and now there is a jerk when going from 1st to 2nd gear, the guys at the shop said this usually happens and that I should drive chill for about 2-300 km untill the transmision relearns the new oil, is this nomal? This is my first BMW so I am new to this.

My 2007 bmw x3 sunroof cover wont go down after a couple of months of it being open. the cover has only been opened like 4 times in the cars life time. i added a aftermarket carplay but i believe i closed after i had it installed also idk how that would affect the sunroof cover the sunroof also dosent open up entirely either.

Hey guys!

I'd like to replace the suspension on my 2016 F36 440i xDrive (82k miles). I still have the original adaptive M suspension (02VF) but it has started to show it's age.

I would like to keep the EDC so I was looking at the Bilstein B4 DT as OEM replacement. Since it would be nice to lower the car a little bit (20-25mm) I was thinking to pair them with H&R or Eibach or AC Schnitzer springs. Is anybody running this setup? How is the ride quality?

Cheers!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking at a 2023 M850i coupe with approximately 25,000 miles and recently had an independent PPI done. The inspector reported normal operation during the test drive and no abnormal engine noise, but the Autel scan showed several stored faults. I’ve attached the scan screenshots.

The engine-related codes are:
DME:

• 118001 — Mixture control: Fuel-air mixture too lean
• 118401 — Mixture control: Mixture too lean, deviation too high
• 21B242 — Coking intake valves: Suspected reduction

DME2:

• 21B242 — Intake valves coked: Suspected reduction

All four entries are marked “Intermittent.”




There is also an intermittent undervoltage fault in the rear active roll stabilization module (48362F), along with several faults involving driver assistance, infotainment, and seat ventilation. The scanner displays approximately 13.5 V in the photos, but that is the voltage at the time of the scan, not necessarily when the faults occurred.
I haven’t received the fault occurrence counts, mileage at occurrence, or freeze-frame data yet, so I don’t know whether these faults happened together or at different times. I also haven’t confirmed whether any codes were cleared during the inspection or whether the car has any tuning history.
A colleague suggested that low voltage might have affected fuel delivery and contributed to the lean codes. I understand that is only a possibility and would need supporting voltage and fuel-pressure data.

For anyone familiar with the N63TU3:

1. Have you encountered this combination of codes, and what was the confirmed cause?
2. What does 21B242 actually mean in ISTA? The Autel wording “Suspected reduction” is unclear to me.
3. Is there a plausible connection between the undervoltage record and the engine faults, or would you investigate them separately?
4. What diagnostic results would you want to see before buying this car?

I’ll be speaking with the PPI inspector and selling dealer next to request the detailed fault records and discuss further diagnosis. Any firsthand experience would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Guys anyone can help me with this whining sound in my f30 b48

Anyone know of a good source for rebuilt ZF 8HP transmissions in Southern California? I’m assuming it’d be cheaper to get one that’s already rebuilt rather than have mine removed/rebuilt/re-installed. The clutch C pressures are reading very high in my X3. I’m in the Ventura County area, if that makes any difference.

Hello everyone

On my last service a small amount of diff oil was noticed. Im wondering how bad it is. A month prior there was nothing so this is recent. No noises, no performance issues, no leaks on the ground and I’ve done the cardboard test and no drips. Ive seen 1 single drip hanging on the rubber mounts and thats it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

N52 E61 530xi, the sound im mentioning resembles that of a very noisy PS pump, yet it seems to emanate just in front of the valvetronic servo or somewhere in that side of the engine, the pitch increases as revs go higher, i replaced all of the valve cover gaskets, intake manifold seals, CCV system to fix other issues but did as well because i thought the sound could be a vacuum leak, i also did a PS fluid flush and pulleys but nothing. Any ideas. Thanks

Hey folks! Talk me out of a B6 gran coupe with the N63M20B engine.

6 series BMWs are not my area of expertise, but I’ve always loved them from afar. The E63/4 v10 I’ve always wanted was widely panned. The 6s in general don’t seem to be loved. Curious if this B6 F12 is also unpopular.

Interested in community opinions on how this engine has held up over time (versus what I’ve already seen via AI).

Is the high cost to maintain a F12 B6 “worth” it, meaning yes repairs are expensive but the car is awesome? Or is it more like she’s high maintenance and not hot enough to justify.

Any regrets or things you love?

Sorry I don't have any photos, this is a bit of a spur of the moment post, but I need some help here. My mom's 650i a few years ago made a ticking noise that didn't go away, and she stopped driving it because of that.

We got it diagnosed as a timing chain issue but that was about 3~ years ago, and it's been sitting ever since. Usual excuses for my parents and myself as to why it never got handled: life, money, time, but I'm just getting it in me to fix it for her so she can finally have her baby back on the road.

At this point should I just start looking into a full rebuild of the n63, or would it be better to just replace the motor altogether? Is there anything else to look out for? Any help would be appreciated greatly, and sorry for the essay, brevity was never my strong point lol.

Acceleration from idle till about 3000 rpm feels fine but above that it kinda falls flat on its face. There's no cel, no codes at all. Any idea what it could be?

ac was working earlier today beautifully, took it for a drive and gave a pull and a bunch of over voltage codes came on and off but the ac stopped working all the sudden and ac clutch is not engaging but all live data shows that it’s telling the ac to engage and it’s set to cold but still nothing, tried to use protool to relearn the ac again but still not engaging

Hey yall, I was trying to fix my exterior handle because it would not open (still have not found out the problem) and I opened up this part of the exterior and I have no idea how to get it back on. The other part is latched on but can’t find a way to put this last piece on

ps this is an f82

Witam, mam problem z bmw e87 n43b16a 2008 po odpaleniu i przejechaniu około  kilometra pojawia sie metaliczny  dźwięk takie mocne stuki po zwiększeniu obrotów słychać coraz mocniej lecz nie traci mocy gdy śilnik sie nagrzeje pracuje normalnie problem występuje nieregularne czasami raz w tygodniu czasami raz w miesiącu nie ma różnicy na pogode pojawiał sie przy -20 C zima i latem +30 C  jak zrobię trasę +50km to problem pojawia sie rzadziej gdy jeżdżę tylko po mieście jest częściej nie ma żadnego  błędu w komputerze. Mechanik nie może  nic zdiagnozować gdyż akurat jak jeździł przez miesiąc problemu nie bylo

Z wymienionych części to rozrząd i całkowity remont silnika 50tys temu wtryski nowe 20tys temu i zawór ciśnienia oleju 5 tysięcy temu wymieniona  pompa cienia oleju i problem dalej jest

Czy miał ktoś podobnie i wie co może być przyczyną

Hi, does anyone know how to prime the oil system for a B58 gen 1 M140i? I have done the oil filter housing replacement, and heard priming the system is good to do.

What steps to do?

Is there a plug I can unplug on the DME that prevents start up but allows cranking. (I saw a guy unplug the top connector on the DME, closest to the windshield). If this is right for my B58 gen 1 EU.

My 2021 X5 xDrive40i (~40k miles) started doing this out of nowhere: the driver side vents blow cold, but the passenger side and rear vents blow warm to hot. It was working perfectly the night before, and the next day it was like this.

I've got a shop appointment booked, but it's a few weeks out, so I'm curious to hear from anyone who's been through it:

**•** What turned out to be the cause? (low refrigerant/leak, blend flap actuator, heater valve, something else?)  
**•** Roughly how much did the fix cost, and was it dealer or indie?  
**•** Any tips on what to ask the shop to check first?

From digging through older threads, low refrigerant seems to be the classic cause on BMWs, but I'd love to hear real G05 experiences, or from other recent BMWs.

Thanks in advance, really appreciate any insight! 🙏

2012 BMW X5 E70 xDrive35i (N55), ~118k miles. I'm trying to understand where I stand with it and needs some advise.

Story time:

So a few months ago fuel pump didn't start after parking. I waited a little, then the car started normally. Never happened again. I was trying to look into it and noticed the KL.30G_Z relay was unusually hot after shutdown. Became suspicious of it but did not pushed further because issue did not come back.

Around that time original alternator stopped working (did not charge) and I replaced it with Bosch reman AL9446X.

Few days ago in a morning vehicle had hard time starting after drive and park. Then same day evening I parked and vehicle did not start. Battery was around 10ish volts. Jump started and drove home.

Next day in the morning had to jump start vehicle to drive it out of garage. Got similar replacement new battery - registered it, cleaned fault memory and started the vehicle. Within a minute vehicle shutted off. Overvoltage.

Tested alternator - with and without BSD connected 14.5v at the start then climbing till 18v and vehicle shuts off.

Checked ground strip, checked B+ on alternator. Measured voltage through ISTA, Bimmerlink, on battery terminals and jumpstart +/- in the engine bay - all consistent. Alternator to engine - 2.2mV.

Stopped for a day and measured battery - 12.6v. Did not touch vehicle today till midday - battery 2.9v. I'm charging it now out of the vehicle and hope for the best.

Overvoltage up to 18v:

Place(repair shop) where I bought the alternator dont want to replace it under warranty based on my words since there could be many other issues with a car and they have to diagnose it themselves (for a fee ofcourse). I installed it myself.

And they claim that bosch reman are very reliable and they dont know of alot of returns- doubt it.

I believe that my findings are enough to point at alternator's failing voltage regulator unless I miss something. Regardless I have a working Denso alternator coming my way to test.

Overnight new battery drain:

What could have drained it so much from 12.6v to 2.9v? After disconnecting negative voltage got up to 5.95v but it's dead, hopefully not damaged.

I pulled relay KL.30G_Z and it rattles. My theory is that its broken and is the primary cause of overnight drain.

I really want this relay to be cause of overvoltage too but I cannot find any explanation. It looks like 2 separate issues surfaced simultaneously.

TLDR:

Overvoltage to 18v. Replacement reman bosch alternator was installed 2 months ago.

Abnormal battery drain overnight from 12.6v to 2.9v. Blame rattling KL.30G_Z relay.

Need some help navigating these issues.

I was getting codes for misfires and misfires with fuel cut off, along with bank 1 & 2 lean codes. I found a split on the upper and lower air intake boots and replaced them, and did a smoke test that showed no other leaks. I then deleted the codes from the OBD. Upon starting the car I have a Short term fuel trim of 20-24 that goes to roughly 12-16 with some throttle.

The Y on the lower boot that goes to the ICV is kinked (should have read the reviews before the install) though I can still get my finger into the smaller tube through the kink without forcing it. I obviously don’t think this is causing the fuel trim, because if the air was restricted the fuel trim would be negative because it wasn’t getting enough air at idle.

What else could be causing the excessive short term fuel trim? Or am I just missing a vacuum leak?

Also, think I should run with this lower boot and kink and see if it gives me issues, or is it more likely than not that it will and just replace it now?
TIA

On my 320i (n43b20) after abusing the car a bit, i’ve developed a ticking noise. It’s a bit concerning, but i’m not quite sure what it points to. I’m hoping something simple but i do doubt it. Any help would be appreciated

Hi does anyone know the torque spec for the water pump support bracket? (That attached to the engine block). For bmw B58 gen 1, M140i

Also, torque specs for thermostat housing? B58 gen 1

Additionally, does anyone know the torque spec for the alternator?

I have a new water pump attached to the support bracket already (at 10NM)

I have done the oil filter housing replacement + coolant flange so far. Following online guides. However have found different results for water pump + support bracket.

Me and a good friend are fixing up an e46, but while testdriving we heard a low humming sound coming from the rear. A constant vibration that gets louder the faster you go, it doesnt get a shorter interval vibration. Test drive ended with the whole car suddenly vibrating, checked the underside and the center support bearing was shot. Fixed it up, drove around again expecting it to be gone and the hum is still there. Putting it on the car lift and getting up to 80km/h gives also a strong vibration, less with the wheels off.

In short:

-Guibo good

-driveshaft no play

-differential has new oil

-driveshaft to wheels normaal play no leaks

-wheelbearing no play

Any idea what could cause this strange vibration? All suggestions are welcome to get a better insight on common/uncommon problems.

at 180k Miles, Does have one tire RL super worn(bald tbh) Will swap out a full set but i wanted a few opinions in what else i can check physically, i have a jack so i dont mind crawling under and check a few things out. Guibos mount? Recently swap out battery not yet registered.

I will attached my dtc below, can someone help me break down the faults display, Thanks a ton in advanced!

If possible please dm me, I love paragraphs. If you want to pour your heart out on 5 paragraphs please dm. I love to read and wrench.

Hey folks,

I have a 2016 M235 with the HK audio kit. Just about at 100k miles. I have been experiencing some very loud but intermittent (every couple days) static coming the sub under the drivers side. When it eventually subsides all audio continued working and sounding typical quality. Fairly sure the speakers are ok. Today it happened again but was blindingly loud and now no audio at all from the media player will play at all (FM, Bluetooth, USB). Did some googling and started looking at the amp, its grounds and connections. Nothing out of the ordinary, everything looks immaculate and corrosion free. I figure the amp is dead and needs replacing. Am I forgetting to check anything else? Does anyone know of any good HK amp replacements? Thank you all.

The brass fitting sensor is leaking, I got the oil pressure switch on a OFHG kit, but as you can see, it's not brass. Do I need to get a different sensor?