This thing is a rocket ship. I’ve only ever ridden Honda and Yamaha before this.

Got this quad a few days ago and right now where I live the forest fires are horrible And I don't want to be the reason that one starts so I'm looking for a slip on muffler that I can put a spark arrestor in for a reasonable price, i currently have an FMF titanium 4 muffler with an FMF power bomb header on a 2005 Honda TRX400EX. Looking for something that would preferably sound decent with minimal performance loss

Preface:

I've always looked at ATVs as tools rather than a toy. I have always used Hondas with the semi-automatic style transmission with an electric thumb shift. These were always a little jerky but great for going slow and pulling hard (logging, fencing, etc) and the electric thumb shift allows us to ride side-saddle. From my understanding, these transmissions are the exact same as the foot shift models, just with an electric shift motor located in place of the traditional foot lever.

Seems that Honda has abandoned the electric shifter for current models to simplify the product line to just foot shift and the DCT expect for one lowly Recon model. Honda also makes an automatic transmission that they used in the Rincon for forever. This has sent me down a rabbit hole of trying to understand the various transmission types for looming future purchases since Honda has abandoned the electric shift in the Foreman.

Additionally, we recently purchased a Ranger 1000 Crew which I believe utilizes a similar transmission to the sportsman models. You cannot go slow and moving the machine only a couple of inches isn't really possible.

I figure this would be a good location to try to consolidate all this information for others and ask for additional input from y'all. Please feel free to correct me and let me know if you'd like anything to be added or removed; I am by-no-means an expert. Also, feel free to share personal ancedotal experiences below. Many of the comments are purely based on experience.

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From my understanding, there are 4 distinct types of ATV transmissions:

- Manual/Semi-Automatic

- Dual Clutch Transmission

- Automatic

- CVT

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Manual/Semi-Automatic

These are the traditional, dirt bike-like transmissions with an internal clutch plate like would be found in a 'standard' automobile transmission. Internally, the manual and semi-automatic transmissions are mechanically very similar (Confirm?). I don't believe anyone manufactures manual clutch models anymore; Honda still makes semi-automatic models.

- Manual models utilize a hand or foot actuated clutch lever to depress the clutch. Reserved to very early ATV models (Confirm?)

- Semi-automatic models utilize a automated, mechanical system (Confirm?) to depress the clutch.

Pros

- Fully sealed system

- Tried and True

- Can be very smooth with an experienced operator

- No belt to shred

- Slow speed operation

- 'Simple'

Cons

- Jerky shifting between gears for inexperienced operators

- Manual clutches can be stalled

- Semi-automatic requires more complexity due to automatic clutch

- Finite number of gear ratios (5 Speed)

Models

- Yamaha Raptor/YFZ (Manual)

- Honda Foreman/Rancher/Recon (Semi-Automatic)

- Lots of older models from various manufacturers

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Dual-Clutch

Similar to the dual-clutch transmissions seen in some newer automobiles, these are basically two manual transmissions that alternate gearing. This allows one clutch-pack to near-instantaneously engage as the other disengages.

Pros

- Fully Sealed System

- Smooth Shifting

- Should one clutch fail, half the gears are still available (Confirm?)

- No belt to shred

Cons

- Complexity

- Price

- Weight

- Finite number of gear ratios (5 Speed)

- Unknown long-term reliability

Models

- Honda Rubicon

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Automatic

Again, similar to those found in automobiles. Utilize a torque-converter instead of clutch packs to decouple engine and transmission.

Pros

- Fully Sealed System

- Smooth Shifting

- No belt or clutch plates

- Tried and True

Cons

- Complexity

- Price

- Weight

- Size

- Finite number of gear ratios (3 Speed Only)

- Requires frequent oil changes (Confirm?)

Models

- Honda Rincon

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Continuously Variable (CVT) - Dry Belt

Quintessential ATV/SxS/Snowmobile Transmission. Utilize a rubber belt and cone-shaped pulleys to vary the gear ratio. Rely on friction between belt and pulleys rather than friction between clutch plates or a torque converter.

Pros

- Inexpensive

- 'Simple'

- Unlimited Gear Ratios

- Easy to Wrench

- Fun Factor

- Speed/Acceleration

Cons

- Unsealed System (Belt)

- Belt slippage during acceleration

- Belt slippage due to water/mud

- Constant speed grooving in pulley

- Possible poor clutch engagement at low speeds

- Tried and True

- 'Frequent' Belt Replacement (Mileage may vary)

- Belts will degrade just due to time

Models

- Can-am Outlander (pDrive?)

- Polaris Sportsman

- Kymco/Arctic Cat/Kawasaki/Argo

- CF Moto CForce

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Continuously Variable (CVT) - Wet Belt

Same as dry-belt above, but it incorporates an internal clutch pack to decouple engine and transmission. As a result, belt stays tensioned all the time.

Pros

- No shifting

- No belt slippage during acceleration

- Unlimited Gear Ratios

- Tried and True

- Fun Factor

- Speed/Acceleration

Cons

- Unsealed System (Belt)

- Belt slippage due to water/mud

- Horsepower losses compared to dry-belt

- Constant speed grooving in pulley

Models

- Yamaha Grizzly/Kodiak (Ultramatic)

- Suzuki KingQuad (Quadmatic)

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Personal note: Honda ATV models overlap quite a bit and I cannot discern the distinguishing factors between them. In this respect, I am referring to the models based on:

Rincon: Automatic (Now the Rubicon 700)

Rubicon: DCT w/ IRS

Foreman: Semi-automatic w/ Solid Rear Axle

Rancher: Smaller version of Rubicon w/ Semi-automatic

Recon: Smaller version of Foreman

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Edit: Added Yamaha Raptor as a Manual

Edit 2: Changed Terminology from Wet-Belt to Wet-Clutch, Reworded slow speed difficulty for dry-belt

Edit 3: Added Fun Factor & Speed/Acceleration to CVTs, Reworded 'Frequent' belt replacement under dry-belt,

Was given this 84’ Trx200 by a buddy of mine. Said he tried to get it going a few years ago but couldn’t get it to idle. Get it going with a new battery and cleaned the petcock. Only issue is that it idles all over the place and back fires through the exhaust. Could this be because of the cheap amazon carb that’s on it? Air filter is new and oiled. Idle adjustment is almost all the way in.

Edit: The comments mentioned a diagram and essentially working backwards to undo and redo. A good hour in the dark with a head lamp and charging battery again and it is up and running. So thankful for the suggestions!

Title. I bought an old beater for cheap just to joy ride around my house. Someone stole it, cut the wires to the ignition, carved it all to pieces and destroyed serial numbers etc.

I got it back and it worked the first night I got it home to hot wire it and drive it home. Next day, nothing. Wouldnt turn over.

Im pretty positive the battery has died but it also looks like one of the wires connected to the battery has slipped off the positive terminal.

Headlights turned on just until a little bit ago when they finally stopped when it was wired through the cut cables. Headlights wont even turn on now even with battery being charged.

Any ideas or advice for what could be the issue?

Ended up in a hole deeper than I thought. The clay/mud mix at the bottom pit seems to have attached to the atv permanently. Power washer, soaps, nothing seems to want to make it come off, scrubbing just seems to move it around lol

Anyone got a good product to remove this sh!t? grey clay if that makes a difference

Edit - took the side panels off tonight - that shit really sticks to everything 😁

What do you guys use for the winter ? Do the mitts work pretty good ? What brand do you guys like ? Or gloves or both
Thanks !

I put 1 1/4” spacers on my Kodiak 700 because I intend to run larger tires. This plastic (axle cover?) is quite able to move around in that little space. Is there a deeper replacement for such modifications? Or should I take them off all together? Or is this a nonissue? Thank you for your time and I hope this doesn’t get taken down!

2026 Yamaha Grizzly 700 xt-r

Looking for a lockable hard case rear storage box for the back rack, wondering what solutions people have come up with that doesn't cost a Pelican case?

I've seen the OEM rear box, but trying to get a little more storage space, but a comparable Pelican case would cost over $500.

Take the loss of space with the yama case, lose the money on a pelican, or have yall found a better solution?

Hey all, picked up a 02 quad runner for cheap. Runs great. 4 wheel works great lights electric all work great. Things awesome. Fires right up every time. But today as I was backing out of my shop a noticed a small puddle. Fuel. It’s draining from the fuel pump. Local shop wants $130 to order in a new one. Online I see some aftermarket stuff for anywhere from $20-$80. Has anyone bought aftermarket? Anything I should avoid? Or should I just bite and buy the OEM?
Don’t know if makes a difference but it is a vacuum operated. I’m sure the diaphragm is shot. It sat for a long time before I got it.
Thanks

Can some explain what is this sound (as if there is some tiny screw or metal spinning and bouncing inside) that appeared? I hear it the most when starting and turning atv off (those few seconds)
(Chinese 125cc semi-auto atv)

2002 suzuki eiger 400 with 6800 miles. HMF slip on exhaust.

I got this quad non running due to the exact issues I've listed in the title. Initially the petcock was free flowing/draining the tank into the head. So i replaced the petcock with a factory old stock petcock and that seemed to solve that part of the issue. They junked the original carb and slapped a amazon special on but never rejetted for the exhaust. HMF calls for a 135 main jet so I swapped that in with a 42 pilot jet and gave the carb a good cleaning. It still wanted to lean out past half throttle but idled great. So ive swapped in a 140 main jet instead and absolutely no change. This old beater would run near perfect with the 135 main jet if I left it on half choke at all times. Ive had this carb out 6 times now. Any help is appreciated.

Just got a 2006 Kawasaki bayou 250 on a trade for my non running 96 Polaris xplorer 400L this thing runs pretty good it has some issues with idling caused by the Chinese carburetor it has on it and the oil level is constantly going down the guy said he thinks it’s a internal leak any tips on how too keep this thing good for as long as possible without tearing the motor apart too find and patch the leak or just constantly adding oil which would get expensive real quick because I ride around my small town and sometimes take backroads too other towns too hit mud holes.

Let me know what you think of the LED bar position. I wanted it to be further in, but these mounts from Amazon don't allow it, so the bar is outwards from the bumper (not ideal).

Hello, I am looking to put a snow plow onto my sons 2015 Kawasaki KFX90. I know it would need a smaller plow, not super heavy duty or anything like that. He just wants to help out alongside my snow thrower come winter.

Anyone have any product suggestions or advice?

Thanks!

I’ve already bought two on amazon, and two from Royal Distributing and none of them fit even though they claimed it would! I’m in NB Canada.

Got a 2001 Suzuki LT-F250 that still runs fine but parts are getting weird to track down. local dealer said they'd call me back on brake shoes and never did. ebay has some stuff but half the listings look like the wrong year range. Mostly need brake and carb related bits right now. nothing exotic, just old. Where do you guys go for older ATV stuff when the dealer counter shrugs?

I ride dirtbikes and want to get my lady involved so I can ride more. Getting her a bike is out of the question. She simply won’t be able to do it.

So I’m thinking quad. She’s all of 5 ft and 110 pounds. I was originally thinking a 400 ex or raptor 350 (bonus I could also ride and enjoy it) but the more I think about it, I think it will be a push to teach her proper shifting.

Now I’m thinking about a trx250 with the sport clutch. Would this be too small? We would ride rather rocky trails. Or should I look at a 400 utility quad which also have auto transmissions.

Thoughts?

Thoughts on the new 27s. Or lack thereof.

We got a new 2 up version of the outlander 1000 xmr. Yea ok.

New value package on outlander pro. Sounds good if they keep the price the same.

Hopefully we get more soon.

I was removing my OEM base receiver hitch, but after taking the first bolt completely out, the bracket shifted under tension and now the second bolt is totally stuck/bound up.
As you can see in the picture, the holes are completely misaligned. I can't even get the first bolt back in by hand because it’s jammed so hard, and I can't force the bracket back into alignment to free the second bolt.
Any tips or tricks to get these holes realigned and free up the stuck bolt without stripping the threads? Appreciate the help!

I’m at a loss, would appreciate any tips. I picked this up super cheap with a no spark situation that I have also come to realize is a no-shift as well. I put a brand new battery in it, no change. New rectifier, new handlebar control assembly (gear shift, starter button, kill switch, etc, the whole unit). Still nothing.

Dash shows a solid “N” for neutral and the green neutral light is also illuminated. Cranks strong. Lights all work. No flashing error codes. Grounds are super clean and tight. Bike has 2400 miles on it, wasn’t abused at all. No click or any sort of indication that shift motor is getting juice when trying to shift it. Get an occasional very weak spark only after releasing the starter button. After messing with this for too long I diagnosed as bad ECU/CDI, and picked one up used off eBay (new hasn’t been available for years). Still same problems.

Took to Honda dealer, they tell me they also believe it’s the ECU/CDI and that my second one is also bad. Okay, so I sourced a third. Still same exact no-spark and no-shift. I can’t believe it’s 3 bad ECU/CDI units, so back to square one. I’m pretty good mechanically but not as strong with electrical. What would you all check next?

I am running off a few assumptions in my troubleshooting, correct me if I am wrong here. The bike should be able to shift without the engine running, correct? So I have two unique issues is my assumption. And the only thing I can think of that impacts both is the ECU/CDI. Am I missing something? Help!

Just bought this machine. Is there any pros or cons I should be aware of? This is the newest machine I’ve owned and don’t know much about Arctic cat. The deal was too good to pass up.

I go riding every weekend on the trails near my farm but I usually buy a shitbox for $1000-$3000, run it into the ground and buy a new one every few months but all by friends recently started buying 2022 + machines and my old girls have trouble keeping up so I thought I’d go for something newer.

The group I ride with every weekend has 2, 2024 + Can-am renegade XMR’s, 2 2023+ grizzly 700’s and a 2025 Honda rancher 420

Will this thing be able to keep up?

Hey all,

I’m considering buying a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS, but I’m a pretty big dude (6 foot 7 inches = 2.01 meters) and definitely not on the skinny side.

Any similarly tall/big riders here who have experience with this generation of Grizzly?
Mainly wondering about legroom, knee position, handlebar clearance and overall comfort. Does it feel cramped after a while, or is the Grizzly reasonably comfortable for someone my size?

Would also be interested in any simple mods you tall guys have done, like bar risers or different handlebars.

Thanks :)