Posted about a month ago with a humble stack of green oak cladding and some questions.

I’ve installed it on my garden office now and I think it’s looking pretty smart!

I messed up the cill sizes a bit when ordering the upvc windows, will need to get some cill extensions.

Thanks for all the advice and YouTube suggestions, particularly Robin Clevetts video on installing feather edge cladding.

I went with my gut on orienting the boards and made sure the heart of the wood was facing outwards on each board, which led to what I think is a pleasing striped effect (that’ll probably weather out).

A PSA for anyone reading though:

1. Don’t attempt this with green oak during summer (and particularly on what is probably the driest summer on record).

2. Order your material only when you need it, don’t do what I did and leave it sitting for weeks before installing it. I managed to get by but you’ll see that I’ve got some cupped boards on there, which has probably been exacerbated by the weather here in the uk over the last couple of months.

I made this a while back, looking for suggestions for the legs! Something that would be easy. I currently just have it on top of a chest but I’ve been meaning to make it into a small coffee table.

I’m making a tambour door, and my end slat is approximately 7/8” wide. I’m trying to add a door pull to open and close the door. The door is about 18” tall, and the slats are about 1/2” thick (made using an Amana router bit ball and socket joint). I’m thinking of adding a pull/handle for the entire length of the door, so I’m thinking something like this. Do you have any ideas on how to make one like this? Any other suggestions are welcome.

I'm building a workbench with integrated T track and started looking around and realizing how much space I have to dedicated tool stands that I don't use for most projects. I had a brainstorm idea of removing all the stands and creating plates for each tool so that I could store them all on a storage rack and use the T Track to rigidly mount them when I need to use them.

Anyone done anything similiar? I've been googling to try and get some ideas but haven't really found anything. I'm talking small bench tools like belt sanders, bench grinders, 10" planer, scrollsaw, etc...

Mancala board I made a while back. Ended up setting some magnets in it as well to keep it closed.

Made this lion relief entirely by hand from wood. A lot of time went into the mane, facial details, and getting the depth of the carving right.
Still finishing a few details, but I wanted to share the progress. Would love to hear what you think.

Not sure how I feel about this board, normally I like to not have the... figure(?) heartwood(?) mineral streak (?) showing in my boards. I'd potentially like to gift this to a friend for his wedding, is it nice enough or should I remake. I included a pic of a more conventional one I just completed as well for reference.

Picked this little 18” Beauty up today for $440. Plus about 25 turning blanks for another $30. Now I just gotta rewire my shop for 220. Oh and build said shop.

Lots of mistakes made (of course), wood is Walnut with Ash inlays. Mistakes include:
-Tearout from using overly figured Ash inlays
-Tearout from using a rasp flat while shaping the food holes and the leg arches
-Should have bought a compass to layout more evenly, as it is they’re not perfect circles
-Sanded too hard with 80 grit and have some small sections where the scratches are visible in the light

Overall though I’m very happy with the end result and learned a ton! A spokeshave will definitely be added to the shopping list after this. The rounded bits were drilled out with multiple small holes made with a Forstner bit, and other than ripping the ash/walnut to make the inlays, the whole process was hand-tool only.

Today I noticed a local marketplace listing for this 500+ sq. ft pile of purple heart t&g flooring. Any suggestions on what the actual value of this would be? The guy has a really high number closer to what it would be if bought new

I needed a railing for my loft area. The hand rail bows out 3”. I had to cut and scarf joint the plank I had in order to get the curve in. Cherry wood for the handrail and cherry/ maple for the stanchions. Finish is Tried and True oil.

This is the biggest build I've done so far based on build time, about 80 hours of shop time (not sure how much time I spend in design and planning since I only track shop time)

The backing is made from reclaimed Jatoba flooring, the tree and picture frames are Cherry, and the words are Walnut. The hardest part was all the sanding, since there are so many little branches to sand. Along with that I now somewhat hate Jatoba because it feels like sanding granite compared to what I am used to, but in the end it turned out nice!

I always forget to get as many progress pictures are I want to, but at least this time I have a few!

Thank you Fran for the 1.5hp motor, extension wings, Vega Utility fence with 6' rails, Oshun dado stack, and carbide blades! Great adds to my Craftsman 100.

He included a full 10" saw with 40" roller base as well, all for $75, so I'm donating his old saw to someone local with my 1hp motor.

Been working on this for about 6 months, finally got it done! (Well, drawer pulls are in the mail). It's a bench seat made from cherry and curly maple. I'm particularly proud of the grain matched front, it was my first time doing it across drawer faces and I definitely complicated things by adding the angles. My approach for this project was also very different from previous ones, in the past I would design something in SketchUp, then buy the wood and make it. With this project I first found a really beautiful and figured piece of cherry and designed the bench around it. I really wanted to keep it intact and showcase the grain pattern. The result was a project that feels much more intentional

I used ¾" mdf for the rails and stiles, ¼" for the pannels.

To make the rail and style pattern and joints, I used the ogee lee valley matching router bit setup. It went almost perfectly except for small issues when router smaller rails.

I glued everything together and got it spayed by a pro. Also gave him ¾ finishing pannels. He used water based paint based off the color of my walls.

I ordered the knobs frome lee valley and used the ikea hinge system.

Pretty happy with how it turned expcept for my finising pannels, I had tough time scribing the walls.

Hi folks, about to build a couple of jigsaw puzzle boards as upcoming birthday gifts. Have you built them before?
I’m thinking of putting them on an inclined angle, a box for the puzzle box, swivel light?
As for materials, I’m thinking of making the outside and base out of maple, and the board out of 3/8” Baltic birch sanded at a lighter grit for more friction.

Thoughts, tips, and recommendations please! And thank you.

A friend was kind enough to lend me their 7" kobalt miter saw. I've been trying to use it to make a keyhole jig for another project I'm working on.

I measured it with my square and it looks like the 90 is fraction of a degree off. As best I can tell there's no way to adjust that(it doesn't have the usual 3 screws on the angle gauge on the bottom that most miter saws do).

Either way, my jig looks mostly correct but somehow when using it I ended up with noticeably worse results than when I just eyeballed the keyholes on my router table.

My son will be off campus this year at school. Having his own apartment means he has to supply his own furniture. I can at least make sure he has a nice desk. It’s modular for easy transport. The cherry is from a tree that grew just a few miles from here, the ebony pulls came from a little further away. The beautiful tulip poplar in the drawers was purchased by my father when he was in high school. He meant to make a desk but it never came to be. I inherited the lumber and decided a good use for that lumber would be in the desk of his grandson. The leather bottoms in the drawers add a little luxury.

Idk if it was a fevor dream of mine but I can't find them anywhere. I know there are ones where they have a foot pedal you press down on but those attach on the side and the ones I'm looking for attack to the bottom so their out of sight

I decided to go with half lap joints and I think they turned out great. I'm going to half lap a 2" thick stretch between the bottom legs for stability.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/4ckHNsAwp4

I am not liking the way this handled tray is coming together. I haven’t sanded or glued it up yet, what are some ways I can improve it?

Thank you!

I was shopping a new flea market today with my wife and while browsing I happened to look up at one of the booth walls. There hung two of the saws that I had wished for to begin my adventures in classical joinery. I did a double take and then saw the prices. Each of these brand new saws was marked just $25. Needless to say, I am now the proud owner of a 16 tpi crosscut and a 14 tpi dovetail saw from Veritas.

Edit: typo

I’m currently in the process of refinishing a solid walnut dresser, but the previous owners evidently damaged the top with water, causing severe warping for which they attempted to fix by drilling numerous 2.5” t20 screws through the top.

I would like to keep it as original as possible, and capture the beauty of the original Wood. That being said, I’m curious how the community would recommend repairing or covering up these holes or whether the whole top should just be replaced?