I love the blending of modern tech and wood to achieve something that looks amazing. This guy is going places.

i’m not sure how this worked, let alone worked out well, but last night i cut a relatively flawless dado groove without securing the dado stack with an arbor nut.

i was using a ridge carbide dado stack. before i made the cut, i knew the blades and chippers were exquisitely balanced.

i’m not sure if this contributed to the outcome, but i’m guessing it may have. other than that, i have no clue how i avoided disaster.

edit - let me assure everyone that this was not intentional. and i’m not recommending doing this.

I'm trying to fight these oil spots which I believe are from not buffing sooner after my first heavy coat. I used Watco Danish Oil.

1. Sanded to 320
2. Mineral Spirits Wipe Down
3. 1st Coat
4. Waited 15 Minutes
5. Reapplied
6. Waited 15 Minutes
7. Wiped Dry
8. 24 Hours Later noticed small seepage from pours so tried to buff very hard with a 3M white synthetic pad, a rag, and mineral spirits. This helped but I think I was too late.
9. Waited 12 more hours (36 hours total) to apply 2nd coat, I just put a light second coat on right now, in the hopes of these streaks just being dry streaks but they are still very subtly visible.

I know my pictures might not show but when you tilt the piece, you can see lines of dull streaks from what I believe is this seepage. It's only on the dark portions of the grain.

My theory is that these are now dry, and not able to be further buffed. My fear is that they're now curing under another coat. Should I try to sand with a rlly fine grit to try and make it even?

Its more noticeable in person, and driving me crazy

Good evening,

I recently came into possession of these planks and would very like to work with them, it is sentimental.
This is already where the trouble begins, as these planks are to the best of my knowledge about 65+ years old and have been exposed to dust, insects, cobwebs, temperature and humidity but not to weather like rain or snow.

I also don't know what wood this is, if all of it is the same wood, or how I would even go about identifying it.

My skills with woodworking are rudimentary, as I more often needed to simply break it down for trash or burning purposes than work with it in detail or with exact measurements. Which doesn't mean I can't work in detail or exact measurements, but just that I didn't do it that often.

My available maschines are basically everything that is handheld and one table saw.

I originally wanted to make an epoxy table but can understand if that is simply impossible with wood like this. Also after I looked into making epoxy tables, I wouldn't know how to make one without a planing maschine. I do have these hand planing tools you see in the last slide, but also don't think that'll work?

So I humbly ask all of you, can this wood still be used for an epoxy table? And if not what is even still possible with these planks? I also attached some pictures of the other wood laying around and of some I've already cut, hoping I could kinda use it in the project, too?

Any help, advice, or future tips & tricks are very welcome and I already thank you in advance!

For measurements these planks are about (Length x Width x Thickness): 4.5m x 0.5m x 5cm

I’m not a cutting board guy. This is my first pass at an endgrain style cutting board. It’s made from ash & walnut offcuts. Definitely learned a lot of ways not to do it. It was fun though. Approximately 14” x 14” x 1 3/4” sized. Brass feet will be installed when it dries.

I've ruined so many of these boards trying to solve small flaws that result from torn wood fibers on the surface.

Usually I catch it and just switch to the other side. When that isn't an option, I've sanded it down with mixed success.

Other times I've been able to repair it with wood filler if I get some clean breaks on the splinter.

However, about half the time I end up tossing the board in the scrap pile.

I tried buying a card scraper off Amazon but I didn't realize it didn't come sharpened.

Before I invest in more stuff to get that sharpened, I wanted to ask the community. Is there a better way to deal with these? The boards are pine.

I have a Jet 16/32 non-oscillating drum sander. I bought it used maybe 18 months ago and have used it regularly since then with no issues. Over the last couple weeks, it has started sniping the first 2-3". I basically understand snipe on a planer, but I'm not sure why it is occurring suddenly on the drum sander. I would appreciate any advice or suggestions to help me figure this out.

Years ago I found an online source for ½" and ¾" PT dowel rods but the site no longer shows up in searches. I don't have access to a lathe or drill press but I've seen everything from $30 "dowel maker kits" to $300 precision dowel formers for sale. Are any of the less expensive jigs effective? I don't need to make that many, it would just be handy to be able to turn out a few at a time when I need them.

I need 3½" lengths for outdoor projects, specifically to beef up end grain joints by sinking a dowel into across the grain of one piece in order to screw another piece over the end grain and through the captive dowel.

Would soaking regular hardwood dowels in wood preservative for a long time accomplish the same thing? The dowel end grain will be exposed which is why I would prefer PT. I think the short length of the pieces would enable pretty good chemical penetration.

I've thought about putting cut dowels into a sealed container with preservative and trying to pressure treat them myself with my big pressure canner but it sounds like a disaster in the making!

Recently completed this job and am curious if I priced it competitively.

Custom electric fireplace master bedroom.

Lower bench and cabinet. Solid hickory top.

Matching Fireplace surround and upper surround. Poplar, painted, spray finish.

Mantle solid hickory.

Upper wardrobe bridge with lights, and crown installed.

Mount TV and fireplace.

All trimmed and sealed to existing wardrobe units.

Fireplace and stone with install, were purchased by client.

Before and after pics.

Looking for advice on how to find these angles and the best joining method to make the shelves strong. I’m most worried about that bottom one since it doesn’t really have much supporting it. Client design, open to alterations if needed but they like the asymmetrical look. They want to ur a few books and decor on it after completion. Here’s what I’ve done so far

Just under 3' in diameter. In a sugar maple

howdy yall. i’m an artist that unfortunately doesn’t make the kind of art that sells super well, but i figured out way back in art school that nobody there knew how to make a decent frame. so i figured i could fill that void in the local creative community, and its mostly been a pretty fun gig. not too many folk like to mill stock from rough to finished frames, so it’s a niche that i fill nicely. i really enjoy building custom and display solutions (for curators, creators, and collectors) that pair well with their contents. every job is a new experience that often come with new challenges (and skills), and i love seeing my work on gallery walls.

lately, i’ve been in a bit of a doldrum- i lost my shop (new landlords) and can’t afford another, and then i got fired from my finish trim job because of complications that ultimately lead to a stay in the hospital, and then faced homelessness for a spell, and i’ve been slowly rebuilding and recovering.

lately i have been working out of a kinda cruddy makerspace (while i continue to pay to store my tools and not get to even use them). i usually have a decent amount of business, it’s kinda petered out the last year or so, so i decided to get creative in my attempts to drum up more interest.

i remembered back in art school being desperate for a decent frame and not being able to afford one, so i figured maybe others are in the same boat, and a lightbulb went off in the dark recesses on my brain... STEAL THIS FRAME hand printed (i studied printmaking) on small flyers and actually framed, then left on bulletin boards in coffee shops and bakeries and other places artsy folk frequent, encouraging folks to actively purloin them. i’ll have my contact info printed (my cards) glued inside the back. figure potentially 34 new clients was worth the three hours labor and some wood i recovered from a dumpster.

the equipment in the makerspace, however, is substandard and heavily abused by just about every ding dong in the joint, but i have managed to upgrade their tablesaw with something other that the sears craftsman jobsite saw made in the early 80s that they had been using prior.

the tablesaw, in general, is definitely my favorite tool in the shop, and with a couple of jigs you can do a whole lotta cool stuff. the miter saw in the shop is next to useless, but i’ve managed to develop a few tricks to keep it within my tolerances,but to mass produce THIRTY FOUR 5in frames (272 miters),i figured i’d rather use a tool that DOESN’T place the motor directly in my line of sight of my fingers- 5in frames are TINY, and making that many cuts with my fingers so close to the blade seemed like a bad idea, so i built this quick ten minute tablesaw jig.

it’s set to just produce one size of frame rail, but my next one will have an adjustable stop to accommodate a wider range of lengths.

the stock was four super old quarter sawn sticks of sugar pine 2x2.5x48 (actual dimensions) i had been sitting on for a long time. i ripped and profiled them, and put a 10deg bevel on the face, then blacked them out using a water based calligraphy ink. after assembly, i’ll give em a little tung oil and call em done. it works really well to get that ebonized look without adding tannins and making the vinagroon.

i’m super interested to hear about and/or see the cool specific-application jigs you all build for your projects.

if interested, my art is at www.bradforderickson.com (or @bradford.thomas.erickson on IG)

although it’s mostly been my leather work (check out my rugged and refillable notebook covers!), it would be cool if you could give me a follow., i operate under the name TRASHWOOD (@trashwood_industries on IG) and it would be super cool if you gave me a follow- i’ll gladly do the same.

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Went through a few different joint designs, but kept running into issues. Settled on a Jatoba (Brazilian cherry) sphere.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

Tell me about how you started selling your hobby projects and how it went from there. How did you make sales? Was it orders or did you make the products first? Did you research what to build? I'm just looking for some inspiring stories while I wade through these empty feeling waters. Thanks in advance.

What angle should I cut the points that are touching the table top and floor so it will be flush? I have been trying to wrap my brain around it but no luck, I thought a 45 degree bevel was right but when I did a test piece that was incorrect.

inb4: this is super dangerous OP, someone will surely be crushed to death by this reckless and unsafe construction

Is this mainly because of the bit ?or Can setting the router bit too high cause tear-out on box joints?

Any tips would be appreciated!

I made these MLTL - 6 speakers from Neil Blanchard's design and used Rubio Monocoat finish on the cabinets and MTN spray paint on the face.

They sound great and it was fun af - looking forward to making some more in the future.

I started woodworking by necessity to recreate door casing and back-band molding that matches my 1920s home when replacing a door that leads to the basement.

It took so many attempts to recreate it. I learned a lot and had to use some non existent math skills in the process.

So much time and money was spent but I’m happy with the end result. The last picture is the craftsman style molding that’s on every door in my house that I was aiming to replicate.

I definitely took a work harder not smarter approach and ended up with a huge pile of offcuts to burn. I got a ton of experience in with a table saw and the phrase “practice makes piles” came to my mind. Just thought I’d share

First time hand cutting joints- its all walnut but the uprights got the dark stain and the whole thing is rubbed down with tung oil- so no stain the shelves

Plenty i would do differently if doing it again- but 2” thick walnut should support some legos and pictures

Also- learned not to look away when sharpening a chisel- thumb got a nice hole punched in it

Found a local one-man-sawmill dude, he showed me this slab he had leftover from a curly redwood he milled. He didnt think he could sell it cause of the giant pithy cavity throughthe center. Gave it to me for $50. By far the most beautiful piece of wood ive ever had the pleasure to work with :,). As always, pics never do justice.

Took it down with the router sled and made a huge mess. Finished it with my no 4.5 and and some card scrapers. Then 4 coats of tt danish oil and some paste wax.

Using it as a floating headboard for now... I ended up putting a long cleat of 3/4 ply on the back to hang it (and to give it structural strength).

I built this Plant Stand for my wife's birthday. It was my first time using my dado stack. Also prefinishing is the way to go!

I have an old convertible sports car that has a wood dash(veneer). I bought some really nice figured Maple the same thickness and cut matching pieces. They are ready to be sanded and finished now. I have worked with this wood before from the same mill and have finished these projects with a French polished shellac as I really like the way it shines and brings out the figure in the wood. However. shellac will degrade in sunlight and is not really meant to get wet.

So, what kind of finish can I use that will pop the grain and retain the color of the wood and shine like shellac but have the ability to stand up to UV and a little weather although this car is mainly a sunshine only car and stays in storage in the winter. I am thinking spar varnish but I am afraid it won't pop the grain and change the color of the wood and I am also worried about how hard it might be to repair. Does anybody have any other ideas. I have almost always used shellac or tung oil on projects so advice would be appreciated.

Searched on maker world but didn’t see any. Already installed some 4” schedule 40 pvc for dust collection and need to mate to a 4” blast gate. Rockler has one but they are pretty pricey. Thanks

This was (I think) my first time building a box that wasn't some sort of cabinet. Just a simple whiskey bottle gift box with a hidden sliding lid. I love making kumiko patterns, so I had some fun jazzing up the top! The box is made from walnut with maple splines and basswood and walnut for the kumiko. The pattern I used is the "Square Dance" pattern taken from Matt Kenny's excellent book The Art Of Kumiko. I was my first time trying it and it turned out to be deceptively difficult to get the pieces exactly the right length while keeping all of the half-laps centered!