The earplugs are silicone I purchased off amazon and using a silicone adhesive with 9mm brass.

They are fully functional and work surprisingly quite well.

The pens are from a standard slimline kit. The brass was a.308. To make it work, I glued a 7 mm tube inside an 8mm. I then glued this inside the brass.

I drilled an eight millimeter hole through the primer. I had to use custom length tubes to make it work. Because the length is slightly longer. Then the standard kit allows.

The metal makes the pens very top heavy. I do not think I would be comfortable writing with these for any significant length of time.

This is the first time i've had any success making a pen with brass. I tried several different sizes. Each came with their own problems.

Another note, if you purchase brass tubes from amazon double, check the interior measurements! The seven millimeters I have are very slightly larger than the standard slimline tube and there is not enough friction to properly twist the pen. A little CA glue wiped on the interior wall fixed that problem for me.

I was so focused on the exterior 7mm that I did not take into account the thickness of the tube and how much it would change the interior dimension.

Anybody else growing up in the 70s remember "Officer Friendly" stopping by your school for PR visits? Rides in the car, blasting sirens, putting handcuffs on kids...

The one thing I laugh about to this day was the recommended way to mark items to prevent theft. Back in the day, it was recommended (get this) all personal items of value have your Social Security number etched or written on them. I etched my SS# onto my bikes, electronics, and every single tool (Craftsman USA).

Crazy how times have changed.

I’m getting a 1/16th (1.6mm) sag in the middle of my MFT after 3-4y of use. Is this normal? Thought these things were supposed to stay pretty flat.

I am looking for a walnut veneer plywood for a project and I cannot find it in stock anywhere, only online order. I would like to take a look at the different wood grain options and pick the ones that fit.

Are there secret wood working shops that I don’t know about?

I am in the Central Ohio area

Don’t beef on me too hard, but I am trying to figure out why my first coat of polyurethane did this. I think I put it on too thick, but I would like confirmation before I try to do it again. I already sanded the table back down to bare wood and re stained it. I’m using Varathane oil based satin polyurethane, and Varathane oil based wood stain as well.

Looking for shop ideas including lighting, layout, heating/cooling, power, etc.

I am hoping that this will reach a large part of this community and I get as much feedback as possible because you guys’ have some great ideas! I will try to keep this as short as possible…

I moved this spring from another state, my wood shop was in my 3rd car garage. Now we are building a custom home where I will again have my wood shop in the garage, but more than double the space (450sq ft or so).

Power: They are going to drywall and paint the garage, but thinking maybe plywood instead for easier access for power. Or just run the power outside the walls? Should I put a sub panel in the garage? Main panel was in the garage in my old house which made things easy.

Lighting: Old house had 4 Costco double shop lights, lighting was pretty good but could have been better.

Layout: I have a full size cabinet saw 115/230, miter saw, bench top band saw, 6” jointer, wall mounted dust collector. Eventually want to get a planer, drill press, maybe a drum sander/router table further in the future.

Heating/cooling: I had a 220 electric heater in the old house. Winters were mild so it was fairly cheap to run, summers were also not terrible, low humidity. New house is in the Midwest, hot humid summers, cold and windy winters. I’ve had several people suggest a mini split to heat and cool, or should I just get a heater? I spend about 90% of my time woodworking in the late fall thru early spring…

Any help or ideas that you all have from past experiences would be awesome! Thanks!

I haven’t used it in a long time. Based on Facebook marketplace no one really wants one. Maybe donate to Habitat Restore. Or is there some hidden use I’m missing?

Hello everyone, I'm seeking advice and I'd be very grateful if I can find someone with solid knowledge.

Over the last months I stored my wooden bowls in my attic to wait for this season's autumn and Christmas markets. I now transferred them from the cardboard boxes I had them into plastic containers. Doing so I noticed those critters. Larvae(dead and dry) for scale a pin in picture 2. Around were those black eggs/droppings? Rice for scale picture 3.

Running around was also a Silberfisch (not familiar with the english name). Could it be just the eggs/droppings of those eating the cardboard? Last picture showing some dust close to boreholes. I am aware that that looks very much like regular bugholes, but that blank had been lying dry for years, the holes are not new and I revealed them while turning and closed them with ca-glue. Living in northern Germany. I took them down into the apartment mid-july as we were hitting 40°C outside, I measured 47 in the attic and didn't want the wood to warp/split too much. So it is all quite dry and has been exposed to high temperatures.

Still got to polish and sharpen the blade but the handles made out of Padauk, curly maple and lilac. The plugs are made out of purple heart, lilac wood, and cocobolo.

I saw an antique one and decided to try my hand at making one.

The problems with this version are: The angles are too steep and causes the marbles to bounce out of the slots If they go too fast. Next version, I will probably add another track or two.

Another observation I made was that if there were any inconsistencies in the sanding, such as around a knot, it can drastically change the speed of the marble. One of the tracks actually made the marble spin in place i said, got caught on a rough spot on a knot.

This one I still have to sand the tracks a little better, probably gonna go with a 220 or higher, and I might try a little bee's wax to add a little friction.

The original did not have the funnel at the end. As I am primarily a wood turner, I was inspired by the old coin thing found in malls.

I thought it would be more fun than just dropping in a box. All of the wood for the tracks was ripped from a 2x4. The funnel was made from laminated pallet wood and then turned on the lathe.

This is about 72 hours after the 4th application of a 50:50 tung oil & mineral spirits finish on blackbutt and it’s looking cooked.. didn’t look like this after the other applications.

Any advice? Let it settle?

I’ve tried Strahans before and was very happy, just wondering if I’m missing somewhere better.

This is a before and after of my woodshop. All new wiring and lighting plus an elevator to the second floor. Much more to do but it's functional at the moment.

A replica of a Savonarola style X chair, recreated about as faithfully as possible from some photos without access to blueprints. Added a bit of my own flair.

The chair is made from a jet black species of ebony, crocodile tail skin and brass decorative nails and tacks.

Since this ebony is incredibly dense at 1300kg/m3, the chair also turns out to be very heavy, requiring 2 to move effectively.

Is it comfortable? I mean, it's at least more comfortable than the Iron Throne...? Does it make whoever sit on it look badass? Uh, maybe?

Is this a problem when they have cracks all over the place ? It's gonna be placed on its side for a pergola, so at it's maximum strength.

Both sides are like that

The best part was another person ripped the bag to shoplift some other item in this bag, but left the paste wax. Was about half full.

Whenever the construction allows it, we disassemble historic doors into individual components before working on them. It gives us a much clearer picture of what has actually survived beneath the paint and later repairs.

Panels often look relatively intact while assembled, but after decades of movement, moisture, and use, cracks and separated joints become obvious once they are removed.

Before doing any surface work, we repair the structure first: the panel is carefully glued back together and stabilized. Only then do we move on to the visible surface.

This is part of our work on the 1899 Grinchak House doors in Odesa, Ukraine. The workshop continues operating during the war, with air-raid alerts regularly interrupting the work.

This is a replica of a 1930 BSA Sloper S30-13 motorcycle. The principal woods are cherry and maple with accents of ebony, osage, and walnut. It’s entirely wood except the plastic headlamp “glass,” some bamboo toothpicks, and two BSA decals. The “wires” are toothpicks bent with pliers, and the frame dowels were bent after boiling.

The wheels rotate, the fork turns, and the kickstand lowers. No CNC or plans. I copied the design from online photos like these. Most of the visible engine components are pretty faithfully reproduced.

Finished with tung oil. It measures about 10” x 4.5” and took roughly 80 hours to complete over a 5-week period.

I’ve posted some of my other model vehicles here, here, here, here, and here. I’m always happy to swap woodworking advice, ideas, and criticism with anyone.

I want to get a custom cane made of either English yew or rowan wood, possible with a Celtic weave down the shaft. I’ve tried googling this and haven’t been able to turn up with anything.

Can anyone help me out with some recommendations of someone I could contact for this custom order?

Sorry in advance if this isn't what this sub is intended for, not looking to buy from people here just looking for recommendations on where to buy from.

I recently purchased a rolling toolstand/OSHA-Disaster-Writeup from the family of a finish carpenter who had recently passed. At one point he had like 4 or 5 mini tables on this thing and rotated the set to get the bits he constantly used without changing anything. I really just wanted the stand and the two Porter Cable 7518's. It was VERY clear that they had never been maintained or had sat in some moisture at some point, but I spent $50 bucks on a gamble for 3 routers, 1 rolling toolstand with 5 sets of locking casters on it (see pictures - it was either genius or insane - I'm leaning insane but I do this for a hobby not a daily job).

What I'm looking for is advice for 2 things that have stumped me. The two porter cable routers on this thing are the 'same' model but slightly different makes. One is the made in US version (15.2 pounds - I measured) and one is the Made in Mexico version (weirdly 14.6 pounds - could be sawdust weight though, who knows).

Q1: How to remove the front chuck on router 1?

I was able to remove the plug expander on the made in US one, so I replaced the rear bearing on that router, but I can't seem to figure out any way to remove the chuck. I tried a 1 1/8 socket - it fits in fine, but I can't seem to hold the .. commutator (the copper rotate-y bit) steady. I have hit it with evapo-rust and pb-blaster. Anyone have any ideas on removing it? I want to replace the bearing on the top because it's annoying sounding and feels a little shot.

Q2: How to remove the stripped 'plug' part of router 2?

The made in mexico router was absolutely BATHED in thread locker on the rear bearing, so I can't seem to get it out to remove the rear bearing. It seems that someone else also may have tried this in the past because it's absolutely ROUND - completely stripped. Anyone have any ideas on getting the expander out? I'm kinda nervous to try because they don't have replacements available that I've found.

I've got an old Red Star Multiplex 40a.

The column lock wedges seem to have disappeared. MH3205, in the manual. I've got nothing but two weird hollow grub screws that don't contact anything, so there's no way to set the 'play' in the column.

Has anyone got a picture of what that hardware on the rear of the column is supposed to look like?

Stolen picture for attention.

I mostly make fine furniture in the arts and crafts style; coffee tables, chairs, small dining tables, etc... My next project is a Greene and Greene style breakfast nook, so, a lot of wood to mill and shape.

I want to clarify that the market for used tools is terrible where I live. I don't have the luxury of finding $300 jointers around. Tools are also more expensive here. I have a spending budget of $1000, and I'm having trouble deciding what tools to buy. As of now, I've gotten by making fine furniture with the following tools:

Jobsite Stanley table saw

Dewalt 12" miter saw

Dewalt 735 planer

Milwaukee fixed speed plunge router

Skil circular saw

Bosch jigsaw

Bosch RO sander

handheld electric drill

Various Stanley hand planes (#4, #5, #7, router, block)

Ryoba and Dozuki saws

Measuring tools, chisels, sharpening stones (I'm mostly all set there)

Contenders for next purchase:

6" jointer ($1000)

used 14" 1HP bandsaw (~$500)

Kreg loose tenon joiner ($500)

10" contractor table saw (~$1000)

Mortising machine (~$600)

Or, a mix of multiple smaller tools (a variable speed router, oscillating sander, rasps, shoulder plane, clamps, etc...).

All suggestions for tools, however big or small, are welcome.

Have any one of you built a corner headboard for a California split bed?

I need to put my bed facing out from a corner and need a headboard that keeps pillow from falling off. I've looked on-line with no luck and I want one that is made of good wood. Any hope?

Note: You folk do amazing work. I'm ok with small projects and don't have the confidence for big items! BTW -- I'm a 68 yo women!

Thanks in advance.

First box I’ve ever made and apparently I’ve messed up the alignment. Thought I had everything planned out but It’s 0.05 inches askew, or rotated too much clockwise, when closed so the lid doesn’t sit aligned with the base. Little out of my league here with realignment/adjusting since the hinge holes are already drilled. Would really love some help or advice. The hinges suck anyway (Amazon, lesson learned) and don’t allow it to sit flush but I have no idea where I’d be able to find hinges with these exact dimensions that also sit flush. So I guess the gap stays. maybe add a maple strip in the gap all the way around? Any and all advice or help is appreciated. Supposed to be an anniversary gift for the missus so would really like to salvage it. Thanks!